Tag: Zipper

Spring Roll Pouch Launch

It’s been quite awhile since I’ve released a bag pattern, but I’m back with the Spring Roll Pouch! Just like my favorite food, the Spring Roll Pouch wraps up so much goodness in one little package. This multi-purpose accessory bag has a great rectangular shape and an angled zipper at the side, making the pouch open to twice its footprint! The main zipper opens to reveal a divided compartment with ample room for all of your craft supplies, cords, skin care and even toys!

With a single piece exterior, this bag has been simplified with sleek style and minimal seams. There are four different inside options of the bag for you to mix and match for your needs. If you want to keep things basic, you can even leave them all off for a streamline version of the pouch. Best of all, the lining finishes with hidden seams for a clean and polished look.

In this bag you will learn how to sew Y-seams (Dots are your friends!) This is when three seams will join together and its definitely needed in the lining. You will also use nylon zipper tape and learn several finishing techniques. This pattern shows how to make a divided compartment pocket and how to make other pocket styles.

Inspiration

When I saw this unique angled zipper and how it can be used to open a pouch to twice its initial footprint, I was intrigued! But of course, I wanted to make the design better than the cheap version I saw in the wild. This meant making it more sleek and most importantly, compatible for a domestic sewing machine.

As I was playing around with ideas, I wondered if it was possible to have a one-piece exterior….and it was! This keeps the Spring Roll Pouch streamline and with less seams, means less sewing. And less sewing, means some saved time! My other main objective was to have a clean finish. This means NO binding (I think you all suffered enough with the Christine Sling) and I wanted to make sure my next release was traditionally “birthed.” 😉

Even after figuring out the design and construction, the name is always the hardest part. But since the Lunar New Year was quickly approaching and I was thinking about all my favorite foods, this pouch reminded me of the yummy Spring Roll. With the bag opening wide and how it “rolls” back up, Spring Roll had to be the name.

Bag Features

  • Large Zipper Opening
  • Wide Handle
  • Divided Zipper Compartment
  • Clean Finish – No Bias Tape
  • Different Interior Options: Slip Pocket, Elastic Pocket, Flat Zipper Pocket, Elastic Slots

Materials Needed

FABRIC

HARDWARE

  • (1) 22” #5 Nylon Zipper Tape with (2) pulls (Idle Blooms, Wawak, Amazon, By Annie)
  • (1) 8” #5 Nylon Zipper Tape with (1) pull
  • (6) Sets of Rivets (8 mm post length) (optional)

The Spring Roll Pouch uses exactly 1 yd of zipper tape, if you choose the Flat Zipper Pocket option. Otherwise, you just need 30″ to complete the bag. I love using nylon zipper tape because of it’s versatility, color and finish options, and how I, personally, don’t need to switch out presser feet for the #5 width. Due to the trickiness of the zipper installation, I used nylon zipper so that it could easily be sewn across and not have to be mindful of ends and stoppers.

FRONT/BACK OPTIONS

  • Elastic Pocket – (1) 10” length of 1/4” Elastic
  • Slip Pocket- (1) 12.5mm (or smaller) Snap Set 
  • Zipper Pocket- (1) 6” #5 Nylon Zipper Tape with (1 pull)
  • Elastic Slots- (2) 6” length of 1/2”-1” wide Elastic

Based on your selection for the Front and Back of the Spring Roll Pouch, you’ll need these optional notions.

Fabric Recommendations

It’s important to know that this pattern was written for canvas and quilt cotton fabrics. The bag making world is huge and there are SO many different fabrics out there. With that number of fabrics combined with all the different types of interfacing, I always have to have some constraint or else the instructions would go on forever. As you select your fabrics, keep in mind the weight, structure and feel with the intended finished bag. Home decor and/or bottom-weight fabrics such as cotton or linen blend canvas, duck cloth, and denim with weights of ~ 6-8 oz/sq yard would be great for the Main Fabric. The Lining is based on quilt cotton and woven fabric with similar weights of ~4 oz/sq yard, such as linen or chambray.

You can use quilt batting, sew-in fleece, or foam with the Main fabric. The quilt batting/sew-In fleece will you a softer, pliable feel while helping to cover the feel of the inside seams. The foam will provide more structure and loft, with more of that “plump” look. If you are using foam, the interior can be made completely with Lining fabric. But if you opt to use batting or sew-in fleece, use Main Fabric for the Base and Front/Back pieces to get added stability.

If you decide to use vinyl, cork, leather or other fabrics with a heavier hand, you may be able to omit interfacing, but still optionally use batting for soft structure. You can also possibly omit interfacing on the interior of the bag if using waterproof canvas, oilcloth, and other coated fabrics with a heavier hand. Due to the angled zipper and the trickiness of closing the pouch, it is recommended to NOT use vinyl, cork or leather as your Base or Front/Back pieces.

With the dimensions I used, I’m very proud that you can use 1/2 yards of fabric and if you want to get scrappy, the interior can be made from fat quarters. The Lunar New Year custom vinyl and cork fabrics I used were sold as 18″ long rolls and the exterior fits right on…even with a little room to spare!

As I was working on this pattern, you KNOW I had to use plenty of other substrates to see how they would look and handle with the Spring Roll Pouch…all in the name of research, right?!? The cork and vinyl versions definitely come together quickly with the omission of interfacing. However, if you are new(er) to bag making, I HIGHLY recommend making your first bag with the canvas/quilt cotton combo.

I’ve included lots of different versions in this post and the following are my favorite combinations as you select your fabrics:

  • Stamps Version
    • Main = Cotton/Linen Canvas with Soft & Stable Foam
    • Lining = Quilt Cotton with Canvas for Front/Back and Bases
    • Interfacing = Woven
  • Bunnies Version
    • Main = Cotton/Linen Canvas with Cotton Quilt Batting
    • Lining = Quilt Cotton with Canvas for Front/Back and Bases
    • Interfacing = Woven
  • Navy Floral Version
    • Main = Cotton/Linen Canvas with Soft & Stable Foam
    • Lining = Quilt Cotton
    • Interfacing = Woven
  • Cranberry Vinyl Version
    • Main = Light Faux Leather
    • Lining = Ottertex Waterproof Canvas with Faux Leather
      • omitted inner lining of Divider Pocket, inner lining of Slip Pocket and inner Gussets
    • Interfacing = none
    • Handle = made with single fold
  • Cork Floral and Palm Versions
    • Main = Cork only (Portuguese made from Cork and Cloth)
    • Lining = Ottertex Waterproof Canvas
      • omitted inner lining of Divider Pocket, inner lining of Slip Pockets
    • Interfacing = none
    • Handle = made with single fold
  • Lunar New Year Version
    • Main = Vinyl only (custom printed from Sewful Therapy)
    • Lining = Ottertex Waterproof Canvas
      • omitted inner lining of Divider Pocket, Slip Pocket, and Flat Zipper Pocket
    • Interfacing = none
    • Handle = made with single fold

Construction

This bag was designed with a domestic sewing machine (I use a Juki 2010Q,) so a home machine with some heavier needles will do the trick. It is for an experienced beginner who is familiar with sewing zippers, basting, and y-seams. Although this bag looks complicated, the steps are more simple that you would imagine!

Currently, there is one video on my Love You Sew YouTube Channel that takes you through the most difficult parts of closing the Spring Roll Pouch, but I WILL make a full tutorial soon. Honestly, I didn’t think this pattern would be as popular as it has been and I try to direct my time and resources toward patterns that have a bigger customer base. Well, you definitely let me know and I’ll be working on it this upcoming week.

I hope all of you love the Spring Roll Pouch as much as I have loved writing and designing the pattern for you! Don’t forget to tag your social media posts with #springrollpouch and #loveyousew patterns so I can see your beautiful makes!

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

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Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 6: Final Bag Assembly

Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!  We are now at the FINISH —  Part 6: Final Bag Assembly!  If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:

It’s now time to put the bag altogether and add all the dimension.  To make sewing a little easier, remove the sewing machine table to better maneuver the bag around the free arm.  Take time sewing even though the videos are short…most segments have been sped up 4x-6x the normal speed!

ASSEMBLE the exterior

To assemble the exterior part of the bag, click into the video above.  Note the following as you watch:

  • You can always unzip zipper to help ease the bag under the machine
  • Don’t be afraid to  use finger and arm muscles to keep thick layers together.  Move up to a larger needle, if needed
  • Backstitch well over pocket seams
  • Go back and stitch Y-seam corners, if needed.  I have to go back all the time!
  • With Main bottom, trimmed SA in half instead of notching due to thickness of canvas and foam.

ADD LINING To FINISH BAG

Items to note:

  • I added the Craft/Wonder tape to the Lining while it was free and unattached to the bag.  This makes it a little easier than waiting later as instructed in the pattern
  • Trim back any foam or fabric that maybe creating bulk, especially at the zipper ends.
  • When attaching the Lining, fold in the seam allowance  to see where placement should be BEFORE gluing.
  • Again, move slowly for even stitching around the zipper
  • If you are looking for the Jumbo Clips or thimble I use, you can find them on my >> Amazon Erin Backpack Supply List.

If you haven’t added the rivets onto the Back Strap Tabs, you can add them on now.  (I’ve decided to leave them off of my version.)

 

CONGRATULATIONS on your new Erin Backpack!  Make sure to post your pictures on Instagram using #ErinBackpackSewAlong #ErinBackpack and #LoveYouSewPatterns to win the prize pack!  Entries are open until the end of the month!

Thank you to everyone who has joined along for my very first sew along!  I’ve learned quite a bit about video editing while trying to provide you the right content to navigate through this pattern.  I hope you enjoyed it!  Let me know your thoughts in the comments.

 

Happy Stitching!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read here for all of my Disclosures.

Add a Phone Zipper Pocket to the Abbey Convertible Backpack

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The Abbey Convertible Backpack is my go-to bag when taking day-trips with my kids. I like having it out of the way but still being able to hold the essentials. But being a designer, I constantly have new ideas and wish there were different features with every bag I own.

On the back of the Abbey, there is a slip pocket. I added the feature with the intention that it would be a quick spot to hold your phone or keys without having to open the main compartment as frequently. But since I happen to wear my bag more as a backpack, I have to swing it around to access the pocket and felt that a slip pocket just isn’t as secure for an expensive smartphone — and BOOM, I have the idea for the back welt pocket hack.

Back Welt Pocket Tutorial

You will need the original instructions and templates for the Abbey Convertible Backpack which you can find here. Additionally you will need:

  • 6″ Zipper
  • 8 3/4″ x 12″ Lining Fabric + Interfacing (this is large enough to fit an iPhone 7+ with a thick Otterbox case.)

To make the Back Zipper pocket, you will omit all of the fabric and interfacing for the Slip Pocket and move through Step #41. (Please note I don’t have connectors added to my handle base at this point since I used leather and added them later.)

Draw a rectangle measuring 6″ x 1/2″on the wrong side of the Pocket Lining centered and parallel to the short side as shown. The Zipper will run vertically.  There should be 1 3/8″ above and below the rectangle and 3/4″ space to the right. 

Line up the Pocket Lining as shown with the right edge 1/2″ in and up 1/4″ from the sides of the Handle Base. Pin the Pocket Lining in place. Go back and follow Steps #21-28 to finish the pocket! Voila – a chic looking vertical zipper pocket to keep your phone or other valuables a little more safe as you sling the backpack around.

Since the Pocket Lining hangs vertically instead of horizontally, the weight of a phone would make it drag awkwardly and pull on the zipper.  So, the Pocket Lining needs to be anchored horizontally so the weight can hang straight down naturally.  To do this, flip the back of the bag right side up and sew directly below the Handle Base from corner to corner catching the Pocket Lining.  Back-stitch well.

This is the wrong side after securing the Pocket Lining.  The weight of the phone is evenly distributed and won’t distort the structure of the bag.

Additional Modifications

You know I cannot resist using leather in my personal bags!  I had this great glazed black upholstery leather I got from Tandy which I used to make a few Kelly Waist Bags.  The scraps are great for all of Abbey’s accents like the connectors, handle and closure tab.

I also used my other Abbey Backpack Zipper Cover and Button Stud Hacks which you can find here.  I like the clean look from the front and just love using button studs with leather.

Project Details

I hope you enjoy this hack and even use it for other projects!  Don’t forget to use #abbeyconvertiblebackpack and #loveyousewpatterns on social media so everyone can see your fabulous makes!

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

This post may contain affiliate links which I use to keep this website pumping along.  Please visit my Disclosures page for all  the info on my affiliate relationships.

Make Welt Zipper Pockets with the Skye Joggers

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Skye joggers by Love You Sew

When joggers hit the market a few years ago. I was definitely into the look. They had the feel of my old Champion sweats from back in the day. (You know, the ones with the elastic ankle and all!) However, it seemed that the trend was not really feeling me. I tried on a few RTW pairs and have even sewn a few patterns. But, I didn’t like how they clung to my thighs and calves. I mean if I want leggings, I’ll just wear leggings….and that’s what I did.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Since then, I’ve seen so many more joggers on the street and figured out I was into the more menswear style – which are a little looser and fit that ol’ sweatpant nostalgia, I remember. Fortunately, I’ve made the Skye Joggers by Blank Slate Patterns before and knew exactly the changes I wanted to make to get my perfect pants.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Fabric

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

When I made my very first Skye Joggers, I knew they were going to be a wearable muslin. So, I used whatever knit I had on-hand…which was a lightweight modal (definitely not on the recommended fabrics list.) They stretch out so much around the knees that I just wear them at home.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew
I tried to push the ankles up to hide the knees…Ha!

As with any muslin, lessons are learned. I knew I wanted a heavier knit and “athletic” fabric that looked like the RTW versions on my Pinterest board here. Either a ponte or scuba would work and I decided on ponte. I’ve worked with it before like on this Denver Tunic and love the weight and recovery. I grabbed this great dark grey Ponte de Roma Viscose Blend from Imagine Gnats awhile ago and the Arietta Navy Ponte from Craft South while on a trip. But you can still grab some of the Arietta from Etsy here.

Sizing

Based on the muslin, I wanted just a bit more ease and sized up a step. I coach sports for my boys and want a bit more movement (aka air circulation) with my joggers. One can only wear leggings for so long!

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Additionally, I widened the knee and calves by drawing a straight line front the shorten/lengthen line all the way down to the ankle. I have heavy calves (and don’t fit into most boots as a result,) but I know I can adjust when I sew. I almost always have to make this adjustment on pants patterns, but left it pretty simple since I was working with this heavy ponte.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

These are another pair of Skye Joggers I made with the same sizing adjustments. You can see the extra ease allover, and especially in the knees and calves where the fabric is not pulled.

I happen to make these before the #SewFancyPants challenge and felt like they were a bit too safe and boring (perfect for coaching basketball though!)

Welt Pocket Tutorial

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

With the new year and planning out my projects, these were the only additional pants on my docket. But when the #SewFancyPants challenge came across my Instagram, I knew I wanted to participate somehow. I decided to stick to my plans since I already had all of my fabric. With the ease I added into my joggers, they were definitely looking more like the men’s versions I’ve seen (and absolutely love!) I figured I would go all the way and make these even more masculine by hacking the slash pockets to make some pretty dope welt zipper ones.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

To make welt pockets, you first have to bring up the lines of the front pant pattern’s pocket area to match the side seam and waistline. To do this, lay the pocket pattern right on top of the front leg (as shown) and cut out the fabric following your new combined pattern.

With this change, you will no longer need the front facing pattern piece and instead, will need four of the pockets. To make things much easier on myself (and after some tough lessons learned before,) I used a quilt cotton to make the welt pocket opening. This allows for more stability and less bulk…especially when working with a heavy knit. For the back of the pockets, I then went back to the ponte.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

1. For the zipper opening, I used a 7″ sport style nylon zipper like this one. The pockets are very generous with the Skyes and I wanted to make sure my hands and phone could fit through easily. (No one likes those little zip pockets that can only fit a tube of Chapstick!) For the placement, I literally clipped the pocket pattern to pants I was already wearing to see where my hand naturally would go. I made sure to place it far enough down to account for seam allowance. Then I drew and cut out a 7″ x 1/2″ rectangle exactly where I wanted the zipper to go.

2. On the wrong side of the front pant leg, I marked the zipper box using the pocket pattern and then fused a 8″ x 1″ pieces of knit interfacing overtop of the zipper markings.

3. With right sides facing together, lay the front pocket lining against the front pant. Pin in place. Mark the zipper opening to the wrong side of the pocket lining and stitch around the entire rectangle. Draw a line down the center of the rectangle (as shown) leaving 1/2″ at the beginning and end between the line and the sewn box. Draw two V’s to connect each corner to the center line (as shown.)

4. Cut along the red lines and use small scissors to get as close into the corners as possible without cutting any threads.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

5. Remove pins. Take the pocket and push it all through the zipper opening and finger-press the seams down.

6. Press the inside of the zipper opening while rolling a bit of the ponte inward.

7. Press the outside of the zipper opening making sure you don’t see the lining.

8. Using some Wonder Tape (or a fine line of washable fabric glue,) line the zipper opening as shown on the pocket. Remove the backing from the tape.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

9. With right side of the pant up, center the zipper opening over the zipper. Make sure the zipper opens downward. Finger press around the zipper opening to attach the zipper to the pocket. Use extra pins as needed. Top-stitch 1/8″ around the zipper opening through the pant front, pocket and zipper.

10. Flip joggers to the wrong side to make sure you got through all the layers. Trim threads

11. Line up the back of the pocket lining to the front lining and pin only the pockets together. At this point, I decided to curve the pockets since I was going to serge them together. This would eliminate the extra bulk a corner would give me. I used a ruler to draw the arc, but you could also use a bowl.

12. Since I was using a serger, I measured in my 1/2″ seam allowance to give me a guide as I ran the pocket through my machine. Serge or sew the pocket linings together, making sure to push back the pant front.

Take a step back and check out the off-the-rack look of that zipper!

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

Piping

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

If I was gonna add welt pockets with some sporty zippers, I had to keep going and add some contrast piping to these Skyes 😉 Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any black stretch piping under 10 yds that would also deliver within a week. (Why is everything I need overseas???) I could find every other color, except for basic black – go figure. So, instead I used woven bias tape piping straight out of the package like this one. The piping balances out all of the black accents and makes these look so professional….but I did have some help…

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

With regular piping, I could use my zipper foot to attach it with a straight stitch, but I wanted a stretch stitch given the ponte. Plus, all of these layers definitely needed to be overlocked. I didn’t have the right foot with any of my machines to do a zig-zag or overlooking stitch with piping, so I got this new foot for my Juki Serger. As seen above, my regular foot is to the left and the piping foot is to the right. There is a channel that allows the piping to move through and now I can serge everything!

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

This piping foot was amazing! It allowed for a tight and even application. I’ve sewn piping on garments before like these Laure dresses, but sometimes I have to go in to sew twice for an even seam. This foot was flawless. Guess you’ll be seeing more piping from me!

My Real Inspo

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

I didn’t even realize it until my son helped me with taking pictures, but he pretty much has the same jogger that I was trying to create. I must’ve been channeling his pants within my subconscious this whole time! Now we can “twin” in our gear together.

I hope you enjoy the welt pocket tutorial! Please let me know if you have any questions or additional thoughts in the Comments section below.

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

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