Tag: voile

Pattern Review: Aida Top in Verona Voile

This post was originally published August 13, 2019 for the Imagine Gnats Blog.  Since the shop closed in early 2020, I have republished my contributors posts (with permission) to this blog.  I have included some additional thoughts and pictures after some real-life wear and tear.  Enjoy!

In Ohio, we are in the dog days of summer, and this hazy heat is beating down on all of us. It’s at the point of just scorching outside or freezing inside almost all buildings with the air conditioning blasting to compensate for the weather.

So, I’ve been on the hunt for a lightweight woven fabric and a shirt pattern with some nice ease for a loose and breezy top (enter my voile Aida top). I was so happy to see this Verona Voile (aff link) and had to have it!  Then all I could think about was pairing it with the Aida Top by Sew Liberated.

Fabric

When I first saw the Verona, I loved that it was voile. I love the lightweight characteristics of this type of fabric, but was curious to the fact that it’s a 50/50 of cotton and rayon. Well, now I can say that it’s a great combination because it allows more drape which makes for a great summer fabric.

If you look closely, you’ll be able to see the great puckered texture the Verona Floral Voile has after washing. It’s not like a seer-sucker with the same repeat waffle texture, but it’s like striped puckering which has been woven in. It’s absolutely gorgeous, and I became a quick fan…since I don’t have to worry about wrinkles anymore!

There are two colors of this Verona Voile Floral – navy blue and yellow. Since I just finished a few blue chambray projects, I wanted to add a little color to my wardrobe with the yellow.

It’s not a color I wear a lot, but I figured I’d go big with the yellow and large flowers since it WAS going to be a summer shirt after all 😉

Pattern

The Aida Top is a new addition to the Imagine Gnats pattern library, and I was pretty stoked to sew it up. It had everything I was looking for: lots of ease, shirt-tail hem, v-neck, button placket, AND written for lightweight woven fabrics.

I was mostly drawn to the v-neck button placket because its a popular style I’ve been seeing with strappy tanks lately.

Based on my measurements, I am an 8 in the bust and also in the waist. With my hips (that don’t lie), I clock at a size 12. With all the ease in this top and after reading some other reviews, I felt pretty comfortable sewing a straight size 8.

You can see in the profile shot of the shirt that the voile Aida top still clears my backside with room to spare! Woohoo!

There are two views of the Aida with either a flat-front or with gathering, and I chose the latter. I like the extra shaping and added texture it has. I also sewed the shirt-tail hem as written, but I think a cropped boxy version would also be great in this pattern.

My arms are on the heavier side for a size 8. RTW woven shirts are generally tight around my biceps and were always tough for me to find since I didn’t want to wear something that was then bigger everywhere else.

My arms fit into the sleeves as drafted, but I wanted a little more ease to be consistent with the look of the top. I reduced the seam allowance by 1/4″ for a little extra breathing room. I also added a 1″ cuff on each sleeve for an extra detail and visual interest.

Since I love to use buttons from my MIL’s old stash, I found 5 black ones which were pretty close matches. The pattern calls for 7, but I thought 5 was enough.

Even though I didn’t use the recommended 7, I do wish there was a button template just to know where to place the top button. I had to do a good bit of trial and error to figure out where it should go while keeping a flat neckline, but everything did work out!

The Aida Top in this Verona rayon/cotton voile is just a dream shirt for the summer. I wore it during a heat wave and was so impressed with the airiness and soft feel….making the heat (slightly) more bearable 🙂

I hope you grab some of this fabric and make a voile Aida top of your own soon!!!

{Edited May 2, 2020}

Since making this top in August, I’ve worn it at least another dozen times and have yet to iron it –so the textured voile is definitely a winner!  The fabric washes well and the texture is still perfectly waffled.  I just broke it out for the first time this year since the temperatures jumped about 20*F.  But with Covid-19 quarantine and all the additional baking happening… I need some coverage while still being  breathable, and this is it.  The  Aida is still a winner in a my book!  Below are updated links if you would like to make your own:

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my disclosures here.

Luna Pants {Pattern Review}

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It’s all about the “jogger” pant these days and even as a stay-at-home-mom, I try to be somewhat hip.  The yoga-pant rut is easy to fall into (rightfully so!) but voile pajamas disguised as the new athleisure look?  Uh, yes please!!!  This is a trend I can definitely follow 😉

When I saw Made by Rae‘s new Luna Pant pattern, it was exactly what I wanted in a jogger….because it was designed for more drapey wovens like voile, lawn, and rayon.  By making these pants myself, I could slim out the silhouette to tailor to my short stumpy legs.  I am thicker in the thigh area and there are many ready-to-wear jogger styles out there that really accentuate the hips.  Nope, that is definitely not for me!

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The Luna pattern is currently only available as a digital PDF, and as someone who would rather buy the one-piece printed version, this wasn’t so bad taping together.  I love how Rae has several different registration marks on all sides of the printouts to help you match up the pattern.

LP Taking in the leg

Based on the pattern measurements, I was at the higher spectrum of a small.  I read some other reviews that the fit is pretty generous, so I was comfortable cutting out that size.  After initial fit, I definitely wanted to taper the leg in a little more.  I eased from the hip/pocket into toward the leg about 1/2″ all the way down to the ankle.

LP Muslin

It’s kind of hard to see in this shot, but the right left has been taken in and I had already shortened both legs to fit my 5’3″ frame.  I used a basting stitch at the bottom hem to see how the pant would gather around my ankle.

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To make sure I had that athleisure look and not a pajama one, I used 1.5″ elastic around the ankles and ended up using the same for the waistband.  The thicker ankle gather just looks more  on trend to me.

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I sewed all the seams on my regular Juki TL-2010Q and finished the raw edges on my hand-me-down Singer Serger.  Changing the threads on my serger is such a pain, but to have the right matching colors, is SO worth the effort.  It really makes the garment look professional.

LP Back Profile

I love the contoured waistband which really allows for a nice gather.  There is room around the seat, but not so much that it would give a saggy rear-end.  You can adjust the gathers around however you like and make a few stitches along the side seams to keep them in place.

LP Styled Casual

These pants are just magical and so incredibly light.  The Yucca organic voile in Arbol by Leah Duncan for Cloud 9 Fabrics is just amazing for the warmer months ahead.  They can be worn with flat sandals (Merona) and a cute jacket (J.Crew) for just running around town.

LP Styled Dressy

With this black and cream design, the Luna Pants can also be dressed up with heels (Nine West) and this loose tank (Merona) for a jumpsuit look without the jumpsuit hassle (a la having to take off the entire outfit to use the restroom…no thanks!)

The styling possibilities are endless for my secret pajamas!  I’m excited to wear them all summer and make a few extra pairs for lounging…errr…being fashionably hip 😉  What do you think about the jogger trend?

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

Coastline Blog Tour {Swim Cover-Up}

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The Coastline Blog Tour has been well underway and I’m so happy to be a part of it!  Coastline by Sharon Holland for Art Gallery Fabrics is just stunning.  The cooler color way, Northshore, reminds me of my times down in Jersey.  I spent a lot of time as a child and even more in my 20’s.  When I was just out of college, I rented beach houses with friends and live there on the weekends…Oh the memories!  The warmer color way, Southshore, sends me to the other side of the country.  It reminds me of SoCal…along Huntington and Newport Beaches.  The fabrics are warm and very soothing…They are laid-back and relaxed.  Whichever fabrics you select, Coastline is certainly going to transport you somewhere special.

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When I found out I was going to sew for this tour, I was immediately drawn to the Tropical Breeze voile.  The palms with the layers of teal and navy are so chic and beautiful.  I have used Art Gallery’s voiles before and I just love the feel and drape of the fabric.  It’s light, airy and dries quickly…making it the perfect choice for a Swim Cover-up.

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To make the Cover-up, I used fellow Art Gallery designer, Sew Caroline‘s FREE Kimono pattern found here.  It’s a very simple garment to make given that its a one-size fits most pattern.  To make it appropriate to for the beachside and to add some sass, I made a few alterations 🙂

FringeCloseup

The most noticeable is the dropped hem-line and fringe.  Five inches was added to the front and back pattern pieces to hide my bum and upper thighs.  (Age and babies have caught up to me so I wanted to keep those areas under wraps!)  I’m only 5’3″, so if you are taller or shorter, you may want to adjust length accordingly.  The hem was then gradually cut up to the front opening to provide a smooth slope upward.

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Along the hem, I added fringe…because who doesn’t love fringe?!?  It adds fun and playful movement to the Cover-up and the weight helps it stay in place when those ocean breezes come along.  I found this 4.5″ fringe at my local JoAnn’s and still can’t believe there was a perfect color match there!  I battled between encasing the fringe in the hem or showing off the top.  As you can see, I decided to sew the fringe right on top of the finished hem.  It adds some nice texture and dimension.

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To keep some modesty, I also added a tie right at the bust line.  I used my 1/4″ Bias tape maker to create two 16″ long ties.  Now “things” can stay put 😉

FinishedFrench Seam

Since this Cover-up would be thrown over beach chairs and worn open often, I wanted the seams to have a nice clean look and did not care to see serger stitches.  I opted for french seams  and added an additional 1/8″ all around each pattern piece to accommodate the change.  If you are unfamiliar with french seams, Grainline Studios has a great tutorial found here.

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The sleeves were kept simple to balance out the fringe.  No trim was used and I just folded the hem under by 1/4″.  If you have issues folding the voile, you can sew a 1/4″ seam to help the fabric fold itself over.

This stylish Swim Cover-up is exactly what I need for the warmer months ahead.  I can already here the beach calling for me!

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Now onto some more fun stuff….

:: Want to WIN the Full Fat-Quarter Bundle of Coastline?  Find out all the details on Sharon’s Blog here

:: Looking for more Coastline projects?  Head over to the Look Book here and/or the full line-up of the Blog Tour here.

:: Don’t forget to visit to visit Color Girl Quilts on Monday for another gorgeous Coastline project and if you missed yesterday’s post by the Simple Life Pattern Company, you can find it here.

I hope you are having fun on the Coastline Blog Tour and have found some inspiration!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

 

Sew It Yourself Kimono

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Boho style is all over the place right now and I thought I’d try to catch up with this Sew It Yourself Kimono.  The wrap is part of the Bohemian Chic trend which is all about being unconventional, artsy and spirited. To me, it’s a very relaxed and airy style but the “chic” part keeps it classy.

I’ve been in a fashion rut ever since having my little guys. I’m much happier (and more comfortable) in my yoga pants and a t-shirt any day. But whenever I have a “girls trip” with my hip city friends, I feel like the frumpy charity case…so I decided to do something about it!

I’ve been eying up Kimonos for awhile, but when Sew Caroline had a post referencing her FREE pattern on IG one day, I knew I had to suck it up and make my own. The pattern is one size fits most and being a whopping 5’3″, it was good for me 😉

KimonoFabric

When selecting fabric for a Kimono, you need some good drape.  I knew anything from April Rhodes, was gonna be perfect.  Luckily, one of my favorite prints came in voile, so I snagged up Dreamcatching Flare from the Wanderer collection right away.  For trim, I wanted some earthly lace.  I tried to get a friend to crochet some for me (hehehe,) but ended up at my local JoAnn’s!  Who knew they had such a selection?!?  As I was gathering supplies, I thought I should make two styles….so I picked up Leah Duncan’s Bare Nopal Gloom from Morning Walk in voile at my Local Quilt Shop (LQS).  For the trim on this one, I used some delicate vanilla lace from my stash to complement the steely blue.

Version A- Morning Walk:

Morning Walk Finished Side

Sew Caroline‘s pattern and instructions are pretty straight-forward and simple.  However, I did get hung up on how she attached the trim to the sleeves.  I tried to find some pattern reviews online to show me how, but couldn’t find any (at least without having to pay subscription fee.) The following are the steps as I interpreted them so there would be some pictures out in cyber world 😉

Encased Trim 1

With the right-side facing up, measure 3/4″ down from the end of the sleeve and mark.

Encased Trim 2

Pin the trim right-side facing the sleeve fabric on the line marked.

Encased Trim 3

Sew the trim onto the sleeve with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Encased Trim 4

Fold the end of sleeve up 1/2″ and press (not pictured.)  Fold up another 1/2″ press and pin in place. Sew 1/8″ from edge fold next to lace.

Encased Trim 5

Fold the entire casing to the inside of the sleeve and press.  Sew on top of the inside seam (under my index finger) to secure .

After I added the lace on each sleeve, I tried on the Kimono and wasn’t 100% happy with this technique.  The sleeves “belled” out on their own and didn’t lay down as nicely.  The extra folding and all the seams made the sleeves stiffen out a bit.  However, I left the sleeves be and hoped that some washing will soften them out.

With the lace on the bottom of the Kimono, I decided to test out a French Seam technique that would drape more and allow for more of the lace to show.

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Clockwise from top-left:

  1. Serge or straight-stitch with wrong side of fabric and lace together.
  2. Fold the seam over with fabric and lace are right-facing.  Press and sew 1/4″ seam
  3. Fold lace out and press. Sew seam in place.
  4. Outside of Kimono finished.

 

Version B- wanderer:

After making the Morning Walk Kimono, I made a few adjustments with this Wanderer one.  The first adjustment was to make the back a little longer with the colder autumn season quickly approaching.  I’ll wear this with denim jeans and leggings to go along with the amazing burnt orange color.
Dreamcatcher Finished Side Arm Down

 

I cut the back piece 2″ longer than the pattern piece.  After attaching the front pieces to the back, I folded the entire Kimono in half and made a cut connecting the original length of the front pieces to the longer back.  This made for the nice drop to hide my bum 😉

Dreamcatcher Finished Side

The second change I made was how I attached the lace.  I wanted to have as much of the lace showing because it’s just gorgeous and I didn’t want to stiffen up the sleeves like with Morning Walk. The lace was attached with my serger (blade disengaged) and then I top-stitched it into place.

Dreamcatcher Finished Front

The interior isn’t as pretty as the original pattern instructions, but I don’t mind one bit.  I got all the extra length and flow I expect from a Kimono.  The width and the weight of the lace will most likely keep the inside seams hidden away…

I absolutely love both versions of Sew Caroline’s Kimono pattern and definitely recommend this as a beginner garment.  I can’t wait to strut around with some more Boho Chic style this season 😉  What are you making this fall?  I need some suggestions for some future wardrobe fillers!

 

Happy stitching,

Cristy