Tag: top

Review || Fibre Mood Paulette Blouse

When I saw the previews for issue 13 of the Fibre Mood Magazine, I was awestruck with the flirty and fun nature of the Paulette Blouse.  This button-up top has a ruffle starting from one princess seam running around the back to the other.  The hem line runs straight and hits right at the high hip.  With a band collar and two-button cuff, this blouse has all of the features of a classic shirt, but has that feminine touch with all the ruffles! We’re still in a life of Zoom calls, so statement blouses are all on trend.   That means the prairie influence of last year is hanging around even a little longer than trends generally go — YAY!  I know not everyone is into that “cottage-core” style, so updating it with the right fabric can make the look last a little longer than the all-out trend.

FABRIC

I LOVED the sample version of the Paulette when I first saw the stock photos!  Is anyone not surprised it made the  cover of Issue 13?  There was just something with the directional play on stripes and the classic mix with softer ruffles that just really worked for me.  But, of course, I wanted to make this blouse with my own spin… While in the middle of deep Ohio snow, I knew I needed to start thinking about warm weather and spring clothes.  This cheerful green and white striped lawn came up in one of my late night searches.  While I initially found it on Fabric.com, I was worried about delayed shipping times (due to COVID-19) and not being able to make my FM ambassador deadline.  PRO-TIP ->  I checked  Amazon to see if they carried the same fabric (since they also own Fabric.com.)  If you have a Prime Membership, many times you can get the same fabric cheaper AND faster than if you purchase through Fabric.com.  I even have a business account with Fabric.com and it turned out Amazon + Prime was still a better deal!!! #winning I chose to use lawn since it’s very lightweight and breathable — perfect for warm weather.  However, it also tends to be semi-sheer.  So lawn is great for blouses and other tops….but you will definitely need a lining for a dress or pants.  The other great feature of lawn…especially 100% cotton version, is that it holds great structure while still having a soft hand.  While the fabric is light, you can really get great body and volume that won’t cling onto every curve and still make  some gorgeous statement ruffles!  If you like the look more of the FM cover sample, something more drapey like a rayon challis or light tencel twill would give you that look. This fabric purchase was made on a whim since I loved the green and white stripes.  And…I’m happy to report I would definitely buy it again.  It washes and dries well since the fabric is 100% cotton (and I do NOT like to line dry if I don’t have to!)  It sews up easily without shifting issues like your typical quilt cotton.  Since the fabric is lightweight, I did drop my regular needle size down to 70, but used my normal all-purpose Gutermann white thread for construction.

PATTERN

Fibre Mood sells their patterns either as a full set through their magazine (definitely a great deal if you want 3 or more patterns) or digitally, a la carte.  The instructions are available to any registered user through the website (in 5 different languages!) which is a really generous feature.  So, you can read through the complete instructions and understand the steps BEFORE buying the actual pattern! I printed the Paulette pattern at home and loved being able to uncheck the other tiled sizes I didn’t need.  While it’s definitely more labor intensive to print and assemble the pattern at home, I was working against the clock and with bad weather conditions, I didn’t even want to send the A0 copy shop version out to the local printer. For this Fibre Mood pattern, I measured as an 8 in the bust and waist, while also being  a 12 in the hips — which is typical for my body.  Construction went very well with the ample amount of notches (I do love them!) and the great instructions.  I have made many other blouses with button plackets like the Archer and Aida tops, so I knew what to expect. Overall, I stayed true to the pattern and made only the following modifications:
  • Graded the waist out to a 12 in the hip
  • Used a 1/4″ hem instead of 3/4″ to lengthen the top.  Next time, I may add an extra inch for more coverage to tuck in…and I’m only 5’3″!
  • Increased the overall bust by 1/2″ by letting out 1/8″ from each princess seam.  The finished measurement of the blouse is suppose to be ~40″.  But when I tried on the blouse, it was pressing against my chest as I moved and didn’t have nearly the ease as it should.  Even after releasing that 1/2″ from the princess seams, the finished bust measured at 39″ and not 40″ as stated.  My pattern pieces and seam allowances were correct, so I would highly recommend a muslin and/or sizing up if you are in-between.
This Fiber Mood Paulette was a great sew and I love the final results!  This is a nice fresh take on the ruffle blouse and makes me long for some sun and warmer temperatures!  What’s on your spring maker list?   Hugs and Stitches, Cristy
Please note, I am on the Fibre Mood influencer team and an affiliate member. I received this pattern for free but was not obligated to write this blog post.  This post may also contain affiliate links.  Please read my disclosures here.

Add Puff Sleeve Drama with a Sheridan Sweater Hack

This post was originally published on the Hey June Handmade Blog in January, 2020.  Edits are in italics and additional pictures have been added (since I love this pattern SO much!)

When I first hacked this Sheridan Sweater for the Hey June Handmade Blog, I had no idea it was going to become one of my MOST worn tops. Prior to March, life was pretty normal while we were just starting to hear about the pandemic. My social world was still moving along and was able to wear my Sheridan to Lunar New Year celebrations (as planned!), Galentine’s Day fun with my girls, and was my go-to for a night out.  I knew even back then that I wanted another Sheridan.

After a #sewingfail with the wrong fabric (it was a red and cream colored stripe that clashed and looked HORRIBLE with my skin tone and hair highlights,) I was ready to make another.  This time I wasn’t going to mess around.  I knew I would ADORE my new Sheridan because I used…the same hack…and the same fabric as my OG…just a different color!

 

Back in early December, I knew I needed a new red top.  My one cardigan just wasn’t enough for all of the holiday school parties, concerts, church events and even family get-togethers.  I wore that one piece of red clothing OUT and knew I needed something else to add to my festive wardrobe.  But did I really need a new top???  Did I really want to make one??? Then the Sheridan Sweater was launched and my questions were answered.

All of my internal fighting against wanting “another” knit top disappeared.  After seeing the Sheridan launch, my mind switched and I bought the pattern right away.  Of course, I need  a new red top!  It WILL work through the holiday season, AND into the Lunar New Year AND be useful for Valentine’s Day school parties!  Why wouldn’t I need the Sheridan Sweater in my life?!?

Adrianna did a fantastic job designing the different views and I’m obsessed with the seamless funnel neck, which I haven’t seen in any other DIY pattern.  The Sheridan Sweater also has the big statement sleeves which is on still on trend and I knew both of these features would really stand out in red.  But since this was going to be my all-winter holiday top, I wanted to bring it up juuuuust an extra notch.

FABRIC

I found this beautiful textured waffle knit from Telio fabrics.  One of the reasons this sweater has been on constant wardrobe repeat is the fabric.  As a poly/spandex blend, the color saturation is on point.  After all of the washing and drying I’ve done, the color still looks as intense as day one.  I was concerned that the texture might be lost over time with dryer heat, but it’s all still there!

The Paola Pique Liverpool’s medium weight was a perfect complement to this pattern.  It has great body and really shows off the full sleeves.  The stretch and recovery is also very nice.  When I pull up on the sleeves and adjust the waistband, it  holds it’s size well and doesn’t stretch out over the course of the day.  This fabric comes in so many rich jewel tones that I had to have the Emerald.  The pictures come up more teal, but this color swings more to the green side in-person.

TUTORIAL

I figured if I was going red, I wanted to make the sleeves stand out even more. So….I hacked the sleeves to be more voluminous in the sleeve head for All. Of. The. Drama.  Below is my quick and definitely non-technical way to achieve that extra shoulder poof.

1. Take the sleeve pattern and make a copy.  (I traced the pattern onto some Swedish tracing paper I had on-hand.  I like using this since it’s more pliable than regular paper and can be pinned/sewn without being destroyed.)

2. Divide the sleeve into approximately 4 equal sections by width.  With the nice notch markings already drafted as part of the pattern, I used these as guide when splitting the sleeve.

3. Cut the pattern to separate these sections from the sleeve head all the way down to the cuff, but NOT cutting through.  All of the sections should be hinges and able to move.

4. To start, I added 1” in between each section.  I placed scrap paper underneath the pattern, and hinged each section out by 1” at the sleeve cap.  Then I taped the pattern onto the scrap.  Repeat 2 more times between the sections.  If you would like more volume, you can increase the hinge widths.

5. To get the extra volume at the top of the cap, I added 3/4” to the top and blended the line back to the notched parts of the cap, all while following its shaping.  Again, if you want a little more puff in the sleeve cap, feel free to add a little more to length to the top.

6. At the cuff line, true up the pattern so it is straight again.

At this point, I cut out the pattern and did make a muslin, but only had quilt cotton on hand.  It gave me an idea of the extra volume and shape added to the sleeve.  I did have to consider the extra weight and stretch with the knit fabric.  But it was still good enough for me and I went ahead to cut into the main fabric.

To insert the sleeve, I made gathers between the sleeve notches not exactly knowing how it would all look.  But I ended up marking 3” on either side of the shoulder seam and pushed all the gathers in between those markings.  I basted the sleeve into place and was very happy with the result!  With that, I finished sewing the sweater and have never been more pleased!

This hack turned out exactly like what I wanted and just love how “extra” the sleeves are.  The additional gathers and volume in the sleeve cap really balance out the overall ease in the sleeve and I love the extra long cuff to show it all off.  This top is pretty fancy and ready for every occasion now.  It’s still comfy in a stretch knit, but also so incredibly unique and special!

Project Summary

  • Pattern: Sheridan Sweater by Hey June Handmade; View: B; Size 10
  • Mods: Narrowed shoulders by 1/2″ each, increased the cropped length by 1″, used Puff shoulder hack above
  • Fabric: Telio Pique Liverpool Knit from Fabric.com in Hermes Red and Emerald

This hack can be used on just about any pattern with a set-in sleeve.  I may have to try it on a woven pattern this fall/winter.  Please let me know in the comments if you use this hack!  I would love to hear what you think!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read my full Disclosure here.

 

Sora Sweater :: Review

As a member of the Blank Slate Patterns Sewing Team, I get to see and test out patterns before you do.  (Yeah, it’s a pretty amazing gig…)  This last release with this Sora Sweater (aff link) certainly did not disappoint.  It’s a beautiful pullover and cardigan pattern for knits with a great relaxed and casual design available from XXS to 3X sizing.

For my first sew (and yes, there are other versions floating in my head,) I decided to make the pullover view with the shawl neck.  It took me a minute to wrap my head around the construction, but I made it through pretty well for my first run.  I like to live on the edge (ha!) and not muslin with companies I’ve sewn with before.  Luckily for all of you, Melly created a video to get you through this step and you can find it here.

The other great feature of this top is the side gusset.  I’ve never sewn one into a top before, but absolutely love it.  It adds fabulous shape around the hips without adding volume all-over the garment.  The front of the Sora still sits nice and straight.  You can find the tutorial in the same video above.

I used a lightweight  Eco-knit made from 50% recycled fiber and 50% organic cotton.  This dark peppered gray is a nice neutral and will go with so much in my wardrobe….especially my blue and black denim jeans!  This fabric was a great find from the Instagram of TrashN2Tees .  I don’t know if Jenelle will offer the buy again, but you should check out her website.  She is an inspiration for the upcycle and textile re-use world.

I opted for the long sleeves with my make, but you can make a short sleeve version for some layering or to just wear alone.  The sleeves are drafted to be a bit longer….which I really appreciate given the style of the Sora.  With comfy cozy types of tops, I tend to pull down the sleeves to warm up my hands a bit and are perfect for just that.  If you aren’t sure what you like, you can always sew them as the pattern says and take off an inch or two if they are too long before adding the cuff.

To add to the casual factor, I modeled my Sora after some menswear versions with the toggle.  I sewed in corded elastic which I looped so it could wrap over the toggle.  If you see other versions of the Sora pullover, you’ll notice that the shawl neck overlaps with the left side over the right.  But, I already sewed in the elastic and had to have the right side over the left as you see here.  So if you want to add an embellishment, remember my mistake and plan for the correct side!  TIP:  Use a small piece of fusible interfacing behind the toggle or button to keep the knit from pulling open.


The shirt-tail hem is folded up with a nice clean finish.  I serged the raw edge and then used my twin-needle with wooly (aka bulky or smooth) nylon in the bobbin.  You can see I have grey in my stash but was too lazy to wind another bobbin when I already had the cream color ready to go.  (Hey, you can’t stop me when I want to get a shirt finished!)  I love using wooly nylon in the bobbin of my domestic machine and also in the upper loopers of my serger for extra stretch and stress forgiveness.

You can find other versions of this pattern using #SoraSweater on social media and you can find it for purchase here (aff link.)

I hope you are enjoying my continual quest for a handmade wardrobe and this top definitely fits into the basics I need and will wear for years to come.

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

*This pattern was provided to me as part of the Blank Slate Patterns Sewing Team, but I was not asked to blog about it.  Any affiliate links are noted.  As always, all opinions and words are my own.