Tag: swimsuit

Summer Swimsuit with Pinecrest Fabrics

Right before we leave for vacation, what do we, as sewists, always do?  Pack???  Nah, that makes too much sense….we just sew more clothes!  Isn’t there always one more garment we desperately need to have or else it’ll ruin our trip?  😛  Okay, it may not be that dramatic, but I still wanted a new swimsuit for the family vacation this summer.  There was some extra motivation too, since I received my package from Pine Crest Fabrics riiiight before we were about to leave.  Who can leave gorgeous fabric just sitting there!

 

FABRIC

I am very fortunate to have worked with Pine Crest Fabrics before with some Athleisurewear and with other swimwear fabrics.  With every make, I’ve been incredibly impressed with these high-quality stretch fabrics.  They are durable, silky smooth and have great recovery with the stretch.  This Pastel Tie-Dye Jungle print is no exception.  It’s a departure from what I would normally wear, but swimsuits are meant to be fun, right?  PCF has an incredible library of prints and can even do custom prints for wholesalers.  I love this indigo-purple color and that tie-dye is SO on trend right now. The scale of the print is perfect for form-fitting apparel…I absolutely love it and can’t wait to make a few extra separates from the scraps I have!

As a repeat maker, testing the feel of all the different base cloths they manufacture is a special honor, especially those which are more sustainable like with this fabric that uses  80% recycled Greenlon (TM) Nylon.  I love to thrift, upcycle and use sustainable fabrics when I’m making new garments, and knowing that Greenlon (TM) uses recycled plastics using in the fibers is just amazing!  On top of that, PCF also meets the following to be eco-friendly:

  • Global Responsibility Standards (GRS) –  This means recycled materials are verified and the production process meets responsible practices.  You can read more here.
  • OEKO-TEX certified to test for harmful substances to human health.  You can read more here.
  • HIGG Index – This is part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition for moe standardized measurements in the the textile and apparel industries.  You can read more here.

On top of feeling good about all of these certifications, this fabric is STILL absolutely amazing in its weight, hand and feel.  The four-way stretch is strong which allows for full movement, but also has great recovery and compression.  The fabric is completely opaque, so if you wanted to make leggings or bike shorts, they would be squat-proof too.  I like the cool feel from this base cloth and it’s silky enough that I don’t worry about chafing…especially during a long day in a wet suit!

Mystery deadstock fabric with Pine Crest Fabrics solid lining

I’ve sewed with a lot of spandex fabrics with good experiences and some that didn’t live up to my expectations.  I made a swimsuit (picture above) using some deadstock fabric I purchased a few years back, so origin and content is a mystery.  I loved the print and was happy to buy something that was overstock from a manufacturer.  However, I did a lot of indoor swimming over the winter and my lap suit was ravaged by the chlorine.  You can see that It went from navy to orange in the center of the print!  But if you check out that solid navy lining — it’s Pine Crest!  The navy blue is still as saturated as day one.  This is a true testament to the quality and high chlorine resistance!  It’s just a bummer that I have to toss this suit before the construction and/or fit deteriorated…

 

PATTERN

After having my babies, I mostly wear full bathing suits during the hot months.  It keeps me covered where I like to be covered, but still allows me to easily play and swim with my kids.  After finding the Violet Swimsuit by Laela Jeyne Patterns, I knew I wanted to try it out first with the plain V-neck (and then later with a ruffle.)  I used this suit as my wearable muslin/toile while I tried out this pattern for the very first time.

The Violet Swimsuit has two views featuring a faux crossover neckline with and without a ruffle.  There is also a cut out variation at the side of waistline for some extra style.  All edges are bound and the suit is fully lined.  You can select from a high or low scooped back and I opted for the lower style…Can you tell I don’t usually wear one with that tan line???  I love the construction technique for removable pads and love that this suit has different templates going from A-E cups.  The pattern fits up to a 49.5″ bust and up to a 47″ high hip.

Details and Modifications:

  • I measured 10 in the Bust and Waist; 12 in the Hips – graded out the pattern to fit
  • Used the same fabric as the lining
  • Raised each leg opening by 2″ – Since I’m short, I prefer suits to not cut off my leg at it’s widest point (making me look even shorter.)   So, I prefer a higher leg to give an illusion of extra length.
  • Added 1″ to each leg elastic since the leg opening was now larger
  • Increased the seam allowance  1/8″ at the shoulders and at the crotch for a more secure fit
  • For the binding, I sew it to the lining side of the suit first and then flipped it over to the main fabric so I could better control the placement of the topstitch.
  • You will notice in the flat-lay of the suit that I inserted the elastic the wrong way but didn’t catch it until it was too late.  Instead of picking out the seams I let it be and the suit still wears wonderfully!

All of the other swimsuits I’ve made before used elastic to secure the edges and I was so happy to try out this binding method.  Like most suits, you do NOT need a coverstitch machine and can sew one with the basic stitches (and a ball-point needle!) on your domestic machine.  I used a zig-zag stitch and some washable Wonder Tape (aff link)  to help hold the binding evenly as sewed.  *’Just remember that you have to then wash the garment prior to the final fit since it inhibits the stretch.

The faux crossover feature of the suit does require top-stitching to hold it in place and I was pretty stoked to use my “lightning” stitch for the first time.  Yes, I do own a coverstitch, but I certainly don’t always want to spend the time setting it up for 8″ of stitching!  This is a great low-profile stretch stitch and I’m so pleased with how it looks and holds up.

Overall, I’m very pleased with this make.  The fabric and print are phenomenal and I appreciated the cool hand and quick drying after a long day on the lake with my kids.  With new makes, I appreciate lots of notches and that’s the one thing I wish the pattern had….especially with the binding not centered at the back as you would intuitively think would happen.  I also wish the pads sat more evenly in the suit, but once on, it does stay in place.  Buuuut, these little things won’t stop me from making another!  I’ll post up my ruffle version soon!  Have you made any new swimsuits this year?

 

Happy sewing!

Cristy

 

These fabrics were gifted to me by Pinecrest Fabrics in exchange for this blog post.  I purchased this pattern to use with the fabric.  All opinions are my own.  

There maybe affiliate links used in this post.  You can read about my disclosures here.

 

 

Full Zip Hack with the Grace Rashie Pattern

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When I first hacked the Grace Rashie by Swim Style Patterns two years ago, I never documented the process…Big mistake, I know!  It was one of my late night experimentations which you can find here.  I honestly didn’t know if it would work or not and got so wrapped up in the process that I didn’t write down measurements or take photos of my complete step outs.  But luckily, I knew I needed at least a second rashguard for myself and made sure to document it this time!

Supplies Needed

Tutorial

Step 1:  Cut all pattern templates according to instructions.  Pull out the “Front Section” and add 1/4″ to the center-front as shown.  You will cut at the dashed line for just the “Top.”

Note: I made a size M and all measurements for center front, zipper guard, and zipper are ALL for this size.  You will have to adjust as needed for your sizing.

Step 2:  Cut all fabric according to instructions EXCEPT for the “Front Section.”  Instead of cutting the “Front Section” on the fold, you will cut TWO separate mirrored pieces using that 1/4″ you added in.

Step 3: Cut (2) 19 1/4″(length of the center front)  x 1/2″ strips of interfacing and fuse to each wrong side of the  center “Front Sections.”  Set aside.

left side of image is the Bottom and the right side is the Top

Step 4:  Cut (1) 19 1/4″ (same as length of center front) x 3″ strip of Main Fabric for the Zipper Guard.  Fold the fabric lengthwise with right sides together and press with low-heat iron, if needed. Mark seam with 1/4″ at the bottom.  For the top, measure 1/4″ down at the raw edge and then 1″ down on the folded side.  Connect the two points with a curved line as shown.  It doesn’t need to be precise!

Step 5: Sew on the markings you made. (They don’t need to be serged, but I went ahead and serger the seams while my machine was set up.)

Step 6:  Flip the Zipper Guard right side out, pushing out the bottom corner and the top curve.  Press with a low-heat iron.  Match the raw edges and finish with serger or zig-zag stitch.  Set aside.

Step 7:  Prepare Zipper by folding down the excess tape above the top stoppers.  Tack the fold into place approx. 1/8″ away from the edge.  Trim the overhanging tape.  (If you are making size L, you might be able to skip this step and use the full length of the zipper.)

***Follow instructions to complete the Grace Rashie (skipping all zipper steps.)  When you get to the hem, double check that the length of the finished center front matches the length of the zipper.

Step 8: With the wrong side of the Zipper facing up, add Wonder Tape to each long side of the tape.

Bottom

Top

Step 9:  Separate the Zipper and lay one zipper side down on the stitched side of the Zipper Guard.  Pictured is the LEFT side of the zipper (without the head,) but my previous version had the head with the guard.  I honestly don’t know which side of the zipper should sit with the guard, is technically correct.  I was playing to see if there was any real difference in how it wore on the body and I didn’t feel anything different…

Step 10:  Fold the Top of the Zipper Guard over Zipper and tack into place with 1/8″ seam allowance.

Step 11:  Working on the LEFT side of the garment, match the center front of the Rashie with the Zipper Guard, right sides together.  Use a zipper foot and sew itogether with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Open the Zipper Guard and press seam allowance to the back.  Top-stitch 1/8″ from the edge of the Zipper, going through the Main Fabric, Zipper, and seam allowance.  Repeat with the RIGHT zipper.

Congratulations!  You now have a custom swim rashguard to protect your skin against the sun and elements.  I love having these for the cool winds of the lake.  The best part is when the rashguard gets wet, I can easily zip it off!

Please let me know how this tutorial worked for you!

 

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read about my Disclosures, here.

Sew Your Own Rashguard

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When I first started making my own clothes a few years ago, it was mainly because I was so frustrated with buying ready-to-wear for my new “mom-body.”  All I wanted was just some easy separates that were cute, actually fit me, and worked with my lifestyle.  Fast forward to the present and here I am with my first bathing suit!  I never imagined I would have sewn one….let alone, show you all of my current “mom bod’ in said suit.

But sometimes, you are so inspired, that you just have to take the challenge and go for it.  I was so impressed with all the DIY swimsuits on social media that I knew I had to eventually make something for myself.  I was given the opportunity to select a print from Pine Crest Fabric’s expansive library of designs and substrates.   I chose this gorgeous palm digital print on Viper Base Cloth that just screamed swimwear.  I never made any type of swimwear but my previous experience making athleisure leggings and a tunic which you can read about here, gave me the confidence to work with performance based fabric.

Earlier in the year, my oldest son needed a new rashguard, and was impressed when I saw a half-zip pullover style at a big box store.  That zipper feature was so helpful and made it much easier to pull that wet top off his body.  That’s when I thought I wanted one for myself!  My boys love swimming and we are at the pool quite a bit nowadays and also spend a good bit of time at the family lake house.  I can use it to cover up myself, save my skin from being in the sun so much, and even as a bit of wind protection when on a boat or wave runner.

After doing a bit of research (thanks Instagram hashtags!) I found the Grace Swimsuit by Swimstyle.  It wasn’t exactly what I wanted, but definitely the closest out there and I love the sporty look of the side panels and neckband.  The pattern calls for an exposed zipper 3/4 the way down the front of the rashguard, but I hacked it so the zipper would go down all the way creating a jacket for easy removal.  The bottoms were made with Acacia Underwear pattern by Megan Nielsen and hacked to be reversible.

To make the Gracie into a full-zip rashguard, I added 1/4″ along the fold of the front pattern piece and then cut along that fold to create the two sides.  I used an 18″ sport style plastic separating zipper and added a back placket so the zipper would not rub and possibly irritate my skin.  You know I always like a good zipper cover, so I extended the placket to cover the zipper head and keep it secured.

I do not have a coverstitch machine, so I used a combination of the flat-lock seam option of my serger along with the zig-zag capabilities of my old back-up machine.  The raglan style sleeves made the flat-lock possible and I love the sporty look.  The best part is there is no hanging interior seam to irritate the skin.  All the seams are nice and flush against the body, making the rashguardd so incredibly comfortable. TIP: Use stretch needles in all of your machines when dealing with performance fabric.

The neck and wristbands were all serged onto the rashguard but I used a simple sig-zag stitch around the hem and it has held up well.  There has been a bit of tunneling after wear, so maybe a bit of knit stabilizer like this tape could help with that…but I’m okay with the hem as is!

By making the bottoms reversible, I thought the light compression of the Spectrum Pro-Matte with UPF Protection along with the Viper Base Cloth would be enough and omitted the elastic as part of the pattern.  With my wider hips, I definitely need a little extra hold right on the cheeks and need to make sure I add the elastic back in.  The stretch around the waist and front leg is absolutely perfect though.  Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to make another pair before our family trip to the lake, so guess what’s back on the sew list?!?

This suit is exactly what I wanted this summer and I can’t begin to tell you how creamy and luxurious these performance fabrics feel.  They are so smooth….and that’s why I have three other garments made from Pine Crest fabrics!  As of the date of publication, this fabric print is available for wholesale only, but you can head to Fabric.com to check out other available Pine Crest prints.

Lake Leelanau, MI

Project Stats:

‘Hope you are enjoying your summer!!!  Have you sewn up any special projects this season?

 

Happy Sewing Friends,

Cristy

Fabric was provided by Pine Crest Fabrics for this post.  The swimwear project and all opinions are my very own.  The post also contains affiliate links which help to keep this website ticking.  Thank you always for your support.