Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

Holly Jumpsuit Review

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

When I sew my own clothes, I like to know they will last for awhile.  So when the jumpsuit and romper trend came out, I was very hesitant to make one.  I wasn’t sure the one-piece look would be right on me.  Oh, and there IS that issue of completely undressing when using the restroom! But alas, after a couple of years seeing so many different versions of a romper, I finally took the plunge with the By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit.

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

With many of the RTW rompers I’ve seen, they either have a very loose low v-neck wrap (probably for easier bathroom breaks) or the bottoms are way too short for my age bracket.  I fell for the Holly Jumpsuit with the nice open scoop neck (while still being modest,) the tailored waist and the 4″ inseam which is long enough for me, but could be a little too short for all of you  over 5’3″.

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

I initially bought the Holly Jumpsuit for the trouser view to help make a traditional Vietnamese Áo Dài.  I loved the wide leg, high rise, and the clean waistband which was perfect. However, it’s now been a few years and the Áo Dà has yet to be sewn…I know, I know…it will eventually happen!  However, I have made a pair of culottes using some rayon twill seen above.  These are such a great summer make.

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

I know what you’re thinking….The big question with all rompers and jumpsuits is always, “How do you pee?”  There is a nice long invisible zipper which extends from the side dart down to the hip.  This allows you to slip the romper on and off in combination with unbuttoning the placket.  I wish I had a blue zipper to match my Holly when I was making this in time for a party, but I went with the only invisible zipper I had on-hand — black.  With the smart placement of the zipper, you can only see the pull when I have my arm up…and it’s still very discreet.

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

Fabric

When I was looking for fabric, I wanted something light enough to wear during warm weather, but structured enough to hold it’s shape and not wrinkle easily. Since this was my first romper, I also was looking for a simple print that could help camouflage any imperfections.

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

I was happy to find this great Vintage Chambray Stripes at Imagine Gnats. It’s a classic micro stripe with that railroad-esque feel.  I love the blue and how neutral it is for any occasion.  I can just switch up accessories to give it a different feel.  At 4.5 oz this is still light enough with a soft hand and the 100% cotton content makes it breathable for the summer.

Pattern

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

For the romper, I used view A and made a size UK10/US12 for both the bodice and bottoms based on my measurements. Since I already made the culottes, I knew I wouldn’t need any adjustments on the bottoms, but I did forget to take into account that I shortened the rise on them previously.  So, my romper ended up being too short! *Cue head-slap* Fortunately, I had enough fabric (thanks to the extra wide WOF) left to remake the bottoms.  Since there is no fly, it wasn’t too much of a set-back.  I’ll turn the first set with the lower rise into shorts by adding on the waistband found in View C.  Phew!

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

These are the additional modifications I made to the Holly:

  • Added lightweight woven interfacing in the placket to hold the snaps, but I would add it even if I used buttons for more stability
  • Used metal snaps instead of buttons for faster bathroom breaks 😉
  • Added slash pockets by drafting a pocket and the facing  (the one thing missing with the pattern)
  • Decreased the seam allowance for the sleeve and increased the armscye to match
  • Reduced seam allowance to 3/8″ between the bodice and shorts for more crotch room

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

When I make this again, I would consider the following modifications:

  • Slight broadback adjustment – There is a little bit of tightness across my shoulder blades.
  • Bicep adjustment for even more ease – After wearing this to an event (with lots of sweating!) I think adding in more arm ease would allow more air flow and an easier time getting the romper off and on.
  • Increase the bodice length by 1/2″ – I’m only 5’3″ but if I raise my arms all the way up, I get some cameltoe, which is surprising. Most patterns are drafted for 5’5″-5’8″ that I’ve seen, and usually I have to shorten the bodice on a pattern.
  • Lower the side darts by ~1/2″ – Everything looked good when I was finished, but after an additional washing, the darts look a little too high.

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

Final Thoughts:

For my first romper, I am SO pleased with this make. I love the slim fit around the waist and the ample ease around the buttocks and thighs.  This is a great pattern for my fellow pear shapes! But it is certainly still great for other body shapes as well with just simple changes to the darts. This fabric was great for the pattern but I may use a woven with just a little stretch next time and probably won’t need those broadback and bicep adjustments.

Holly Jumpsuit by Love You Sew

Project Summary:

Now that I’m done with my very first romper, I think I’m ready for another.  Do you have any good romper/jumpsuit patterns to recommend?  Let me know in the comments.  I would love to hear your thoughts!

 

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

 


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Raspberry Dress by Love You Sew

Raspberry Dress Tester Review

Raspberry Dress by Love You Sew
Last month (when I had time and the kids were still in school) I had the opportunity to make one of CocoWawa’s patterns, the Raspberry Dress!  I had never made one of Ana’s patterns and just discovered her IG feed and designs earlier this year.  So, I was very excited when she asked me to try one out…especially to learn this (new to me) shirring technique!

The Raspberry Dress also comes in Jumpsuit and Playsuit views all sharing the same shirred bodice.  There are also three different strap options along with pockets (!!!) to mix and match with the bottoms.  One of the nicest options is that the pattern is available in BOTH English and Spanish!  More of our global sewing community can enjoy this make!!!  You can check out all the different versions and other tester inspiration here on the CocoWawa blog.

Fabric:

I purchased this Robert Kaufman Chambray double-gauze (affiliate link) years ago (maybe four or five?) for a specific dress, but after hearing so many bad reviews from my friends, I decided to never make it.  So, this fabric has sat on my shelves until I could find the right project to use up all three yards of it…and here it is!

Double-gauze is exactly what its name tells you.  This fabric is made of two separate layers of cotton gauze, known for it’s open weave making it very light and airy.  Double gauze is created when the two layers are joined with little stitches at regular intervals throughout the fabric.  Usually, the conjoining stitches are undetectable from the right side, but in my case,  the stitches created the gorgeous dobby texture.  Double gauze is more opaque with the added layer, yet still has the breathability — perfect for hot weather.  That’s why this fabric was THE perfect choice for the summery Raspberry silhouette.

Shirring:

The main feature of this pattern is the shirred bodice.  Essentially, you are sewing in elastic thread to gather woven (non-stretch) fabric to then make it stretchy.  The bodice starts out at twice the width you see and you sew row after row, while gathering the fabric to get it smaller.  I’m so happy Ana provided the actual machine settings for the shirring.  I used a small 70 needle for the delicate double gauze and hand-wound my elastic bobbin thread as instructed.  With the lightweight fabric, the shirring worked on my first try (true shocker!)  I would imagine that heavier fabric would not pull back as much as this double-gauze.

With elastic thread, you can’t back-stitch, which gets a bit tricky. I left long thread tails at the start of each row to tie off, but ended up cutting them off when I overlocked the side seams. To make sure the elastic thread wouldn’t detach with wear, I sewed the side seams twice and shortened my stitch length to about 1.8-2.0mm on the second pass.

Shirring takes time…my tip would be to be patient and take breaks between every two or three rows because my hands had to fully stretch out the fabric to make sure it ran through the machine straight and evenly.  They would cramp up otherwise, holding all of the fabric taut and steady.

Dress Version:

Out of all of the different views of the Raspberry, I knew I would wear the dress the most (I’m still warming up to the jumpsuit game!)  I’ve been looking for more midi to maxi length dresses for this summer and the length worked for my 5’3″ frame.  I chose the simple thin straps to tie off in bows.  With the added ruffle, a simple strap would balance it all out.

Modifications:

  • Sewed a narrow hem at the neckline since I did not want a wide ruffle at the top. I compensated for this and added an extra row of shirring to keep the neckline closer to my body
  • Shortened the bodice by two inches to keep the shirring above my belly button.  (I’m just particular and prefer to not have the fabric rub on my pooch. Lol.)
  • Omitted the skirt elastic entirely since it wasn’t laying flat with my light fabric.  And since I WAS working with light fabric, the shirring could hold the weight of the skirt and not be dragged down.
  • Shortened the skirt by 6″ —  2″ came from the top (since I screwed up while overlocking and accidentally cut into my fabric…whomp…whomp…  Fortunately, I’m petite and didn’t throw off the placement of the in-seam pocket. Phew!) The remaining 4″ came off the bottom.
  • Added a ruffle all around the skirt using the remaining fabric I had – (2) 56″ x 6″ lengths of fabric gathered and sewn to the bottom with a 1/2″ closed hem.

Project Details:

I hope you enjoyed this make and can use some of the tips as I worked through the tester version of the Raspberry Dress!  Please let me know if this helped you in the comments below!

 

Happy Summer Sewing!

Cristy

 

As a tester, the pattern was provided to me for feedback.  This blog post was not required as part of the testing process.  All thoughts and opinions are my own (as always.)