Tag: Robert Kaufman

Raspberry Dress by Love You Sew

Raspberry Dress Tester Review

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Raspberry Dress by Love You Sew
Last month (when I had time and the kids were still in school) I had the opportunity to make one of CocoWawa’s patterns, the Raspberry Dress!  I had never made one of Ana’s patterns and just discovered her IG feed and designs earlier this year.  So, I was very excited when she asked me to try one out…especially to learn this (new to me) shirring technique!

The Raspberry Dress also comes in Jumpsuit and Playsuit views all sharing the same shirred bodice.  There are also three different strap options along with pockets (!!!) to mix and match with the bottoms.  One of the nicest options is that the pattern is available in BOTH English and Spanish!  More of our global sewing community can enjoy this make!!!  You can check out all the different versions and other tester inspiration here on the CocoWawa blog.

Fabric:

I purchased this Robert Kaufman Chambray double-gauze (affiliate link) years ago (maybe four or five?) for a specific dress, but after hearing so many bad reviews from my friends, I decided to never make it.  So, this fabric has sat on my shelves until I could find the right project to use up all three yards of it…and here it is!

Double-gauze is exactly what its name tells you.  This fabric is made of two separate layers of cotton gauze, known for it’s open weave making it very light and airy.  Double gauze is created when the two layers are joined with little stitches at regular intervals throughout the fabric.  Usually, the conjoining stitches are undetectable from the right side, but in my case,  the stitches created the gorgeous dobby texture.  Double gauze is more opaque with the added layer, yet still has the breathability — perfect for hot weather.  That’s why this fabric was THE perfect choice for the summery Raspberry silhouette.

Shirring:

The main feature of this pattern is the shirred bodice.  Essentially, you are sewing in elastic thread to gather woven (non-stretch) fabric to then make it stretchy.  The bodice starts out at twice the width you see and you sew row after row, while gathering the fabric to get it smaller.  I’m so happy Ana provided the actual machine settings for the shirring.  I used a small 70 needle for the delicate double gauze and hand-wound my elastic bobbin thread as instructed.  With the lightweight fabric, the shirring worked on my first try (true shocker!)  I would imagine that heavier fabric would not pull back as much as this double-gauze.

With elastic thread, you can’t back-stitch, which gets a bit tricky. I left long thread tails at the start of each row to tie off, but ended up cutting them off when I overlocked the side seams. To make sure the elastic thread wouldn’t detach with wear, I sewed the side seams twice and shortened my stitch length to about 1.8-2.0mm on the second pass.

Shirring takes time…my tip would be to be patient and take breaks between every two or three rows because my hands had to fully stretch out the fabric to make sure it ran through the machine straight and evenly.  They would cramp up otherwise, holding all of the fabric taut and steady.

Dress Version:

Out of all of the different views of the Raspberry, I knew I would wear the dress the most (I’m still warming up to the jumpsuit game!)  I’ve been looking for more midi to maxi length dresses for this summer and the length worked for my 5’3″ frame.  I chose the simple thin straps to tie off in bows.  With the added ruffle, a simple strap would balance it all out.

Modifications:

  • Sewed a narrow hem at the neckline since I did not want a wide ruffle at the top. I compensated for this and added an extra row of shirring to keep the neckline closer to my body
  • Shortened the bodice by two inches to keep the shirring above my belly button.  (I’m just particular and prefer to not have the fabric rub on my pooch. Lol.)
  • Omitted the skirt elastic entirely since it wasn’t laying flat with my light fabric.  And since I WAS working with light fabric, the shirring could hold the weight of the skirt and not be dragged down.
  • Shortened the skirt by 6″ —  2″ came from the top (since I screwed up while overlocking and accidentally cut into my fabric…whomp…whomp…  Fortunately, I’m petite and didn’t throw off the placement of the in-seam pocket. Phew!) The remaining 4″ came off the bottom.
  • Added a ruffle all around the skirt using the remaining fabric I had – (2) 56″ x 6″ lengths of fabric gathered and sewn to the bottom with a 1/2″ closed hem.

Project Details:

I hope you enjoyed this make and can use some of the tips as I worked through the tester version of the Raspberry Dress!  Please let me know if this helped you in the comments below!

 

Happy Summer Sewing!

Cristy

 

As a tester, the pattern was provided to me for feedback.  This blog post was not required as part of the testing process.  All thoughts and opinions are my own (as always.) 

Blank Slate Patterns: Fairelith Top Review

As I sew more clothing for myself, I try to create pieces which will last and fit with my existing wardrobe staples.  However, I also find myself looking into fashion trends again.  The 80’s and 90’s have come back again with a mixture of looks.  I didn’t think I would be into high waisted jeans, but I just bought my first pair (after these photos were taken) and LOVE them!  With young kids, you never have to worry about running around with them and accidentally showing off your plumber skills (Eek!)

With mid and high-waisted pants taking over, I see so many tops being tucked in.  Overalls are back in a big way, so slender layers are needed.  While taking these all into mind, I thought I could really use a Fairelith Top (aff link) by Blank Slate Patterns in my closet.  This body skimming version was what I was looking for and I knew it would also be perfect tucked in with my Moss Skirts which you can see here and here.

I wanted a little more color in my closet while staying pretty classic, so I chose this fantastic mustard stripe Blake cotton knit jersey (aff link) by Carolyn Friedlander.  It is a great tone with my olive skin and pairs SO well with denim, black and other blues (the predominant colors I wear!)

When I first measured myself for this top, it was before the holidays and I cut all my pieces.  But of course the holidays got the best of me and it ended up a wee bit more snug than I would have liked.  :/  Luckily, I was able to get my body back on track so I could share this make with you (a few months later…)  Although, next time, I will definitely make a larger arm.  As I’ve mentioned before, my arms are heavy for RTW based on my waist and bust measurements….so I  should’ve known the arms would be slightly too tight!  You can see all the extra folds around my armpit area.  But it’s my fault for being too anxious and not making a muslin. (Rookie mistake…)   Melly Sews does include instructions to narrow out the neck…so maybe I’ll move up a whole size and then use that adjustment.  (I’ll keep you update and let you know what I do and how the process goes.)

This neckline is just gorgeous, right?  The ballet neckline hits at just the right spots on the shoulders so it’s not falling off.   I love how it shows the collar bone and is perfect for a statement necklace.  Bandana scarves are pretty hot right now and would pair well with this kind of opening.

The open neckline continues to the back. With my short hair, this ballet opening highlights my neck well.  I like this different style, which I haven’t seen much in other indie designers.

With a  raglan sleeve, this make comes together quickly.  The hem and sleeves are all pressed under and finished with a twin needle.  I like to use wooly nylon (aff link) in the bobbin for a little extra stretch and comfort with this method.  When sewing, it’s good to leave long thread tails and stretch out the hems afterwards.  This is just in case you have some tension issues and the bobbin thread was pulled too tight.


Even with the puckering around the armpit, I still love the design features of the Fairelith Top (aff link) and can’t wait to make another (with the right adjustments!) The extra folds do not matter to me on a day-to-day basis.  But if you run across the same issue, a jacket or vest like this one above can help you hide it.  Lol.

Happy Sewing Friends!

Cristy

 

Appaloosa Bag – Pattern Review

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A few months ago, I had the amazing opportunity of taking one of Sara Lawson’s bag-making classes…at my local quilt shop!  I’ve been trying to attend one of her retreats for awhile and was so glad she came to Columbus. Sara designs some pretty fantastic bags and accessories through her business, Sew Sweetness.  The Aeroplane bag was one of my first names and you can read about it here.

We have worked together in the past and I have a few guest posts on her blog.  There is one from Purse-Palooza which you can read about here.  I also wrote a review on a Craftsy Tailoring class which you can read about here. Sara is such a sweet and humble person but she’s such a rockstar to us bagineers!

I have to admit, the Appaloosa bag (aff link) would not have been my choice for a class with Sara.  But I completely understand the bag we make has to be done in the time allotted, which was about 6 hrs.  However, I found it as my own personal challenge to try to make this pattern, more “me.”

I used a light weight black denim by Robert Kaufman as my main fabric with Carolyn Friedlander’s Euclid as the lining.  This would keep the bag modern and pretty versatile with any wardrobe.  And since I was using the black denim, I made sure to use black Soft and Stable in the construction of the bag.  Otherwise, you run the risk of the natural colored foam peeking though the needle holes.

With the black denim being pretty plain, I just had to do a little bag quilting. (You know me!) I took some inspiration from current Rebecca Minkoff bags to try to pull off something very modern and on-trend.  With the pattern calling for all of the Soft and Stable, I knew the texture would be perfect on this bag.  I made a simple herringbone design using my favorite Chalk-pencil.  You can still see the marks on the picture above.  The lines just erase right off when you are finished.

Like most other quilting, I made sure to use my walking foot and created long thread tails to hide later on.  I used all Gutermann polyester thread.

I used rivets all around the border of the flap to add the extra “edge” on this bag.  Initially, I was going to use nickel hardware (because that’s what I had on-hand,) but Sara helped me decide on the gunmetal and just wait to finish my bag later.  Yeah…that was a pretty good decision.

The slider and rectangle rings were quickly ordered and boy…do they make the bag.  🙂  The gunmetal really works with the feel I was going for with this bag.

So….of course, I added a few extra rivets around to balance out the front flap.  Also, I made two strap extenders instead of just one.  After having the bag sit around waiting for the hardware, I thought I would use this more as a cross-body than an under-the-arm bag.  It just works more with my lifestyle with active young kids.

Having Sara around to instruct and so many nice bagineers to assist, the Appaloosa came together so quickly.  We definitely didn’t need the full 6 hours at all.  The most challenging part was just sewing through all the layers of the front accordion pockets to the sides of the bag.  I would definitely recommend some large needles and to hand-crank it if needed.

I love the multiple pockets in the front of the bag…and there is still another zip pocket in the main compartment.  Since I used a metal zipper, I did run into the issue of having to shorten and adjust the one had even though it was a 9″ as called for in the pattern.

The back of the Appaloosa is nice and smooth.  With all the pockets on the front, you really don’t need anything on the back.  Although….once I get my new black leather labels, this bag will definitely get one toward the top-center of the back.

Verdict – I love this design!  Initially, it wasn’t for me, but I made it my own.  It made me think out of the box a little bit and now I want to go through all the patterns I own and take a look at each one differently and how I can own each one.  It’s amazing what the fabric and some hardware can do to completely change up a bag.

For the Appaloosa bag, you can purchase the pattern and/or the instructional video here.

 

Please note there are affiliate links in this post.  I will only ever link to products I have used myself  and as always give you the real deal in my opinions and experiences.

Moss Skirt {Review}

MossSkirtTitle

With all of this great warm weather, I’ve been thinking about adding some new pieces to my wardrobe and skirts are definitely included.  Coincidentally, it is also #MeMadeMay where you show off your handmade clothing on social media all throughout the month.  So…I obviously needed to make one rather than buy one 😉

PatternCover

I’ve been casually looking over designs for a few months and wanted a clean silhouette without an elastic waistband.  Although the thought of a zipper scared the bejesus out of me, I still selected Grainline Studio‘s Moss Skirt.  The instructions and pictures are well done and I love how there are great resources on Grainline’s blog in case you get stuck (which of course, I did.)  I also love the two variations with a short mini and knee-length options.

I chose this beautiful Robert Kaufman black denim for my skirt.  It has a lightweight structure and has pretty classy look and feel.  Who can knock the bonus slimming effects of black as well?

ZipperInsertOpen

The body of the skirt came together pretty quickly.  I used a combination of my Juki TL-2010Q to sew the straight seams and then finished with my Singer 150 Anniversary 14T948DS Serger.  If you make a lot of garments, I highly recommend a serger to really make your seams look professional.

After I got the body and pockets complete, it was onto the zipper insert.  Since this was my first one (ever!) I couldn’t wrap my head around the pattern’s instructions.  Luckily, Grainline has a ton of supplemental resources under “Tutorials”  to help.

ZipperInsertClosed

After looking at the blog’s additional pictures and instructions (about 10 times,) I finally dove in and added the insert.  Instead of basting, I used my favorite Sewline Glue Pen to keep the zipper and fly pieces all in place.  I’m so proud of how this came out…who knew it actually pays off to take your time?  😛

WaistbandButton

I like fun little details like adding this metallic fabric inside the waistband.  It is Remix by Ann Kelle for Robert Kaufman and really adds some flare.  This button is extra special – It is from my mother-in-law’s stash which was passed to me when she moved to a retirement home.  I wanted to make this skirt for Mother’s Day and it was really nice to have something from my MIL because we couldn’t spend the day together.  I think it maybe from a coat because I have about 5 of these pretty gem-like buttons.

MossSkirtBackview

Before adding the waistband, I adjusted the waist measurement at the back yoke.  (My backside is one size and my waist is another.)  Next time, I’ll wait to serge the center-back seam until after I  tailor it in…just for clean seam.   What I completely forgot to do, was to slightly curve the yoke back down after the adjustment.  You can see the slight fold in the yoke right below the waistband….that should be smooth.

MossSkirtSideview

The other change I made was to decrease my seam allowance to 3/8″ for the waistband to make it slightly wider.  After kids, I enjoy a mid-rise and wider waistbands to keep “everything” in it’s place…hehe.

MossSkirtFrontCloseUp

If you read other reviews, there is a mix of people who are able to use the waistband as written, and others who come up a little short.  I’m still a newbie to garment construction and I fell into the latter group.  Since I adjusted the back yoke, my waistband was only about 1″ too short.  I added the extra length to line up with the fly shield and you would never know there was an issue.  Fortunately, I did not cut my interior waistband facing yet and could adjust to match.

MossSkirtSideCloseUp

The pockets on this skirt are great.  Since I’m a bit more curvy, ready-to-wear pockets tend to poke out and it looks like little wings are flapping out of my hips.  I would have to sew them shut to look somewhat normal, but then have to sacrifice functionality.  These pockets hug to the body and I’m so glad I can actually use them!

MossSkirtStyled

I opted for View B of the Moss Skirt to wear this out to slightly more conservative places, but changed the band to hang only 2 1/4″ down since I’m a shortie (5’3″.)  There are definite plans for some more casual versions with View A for the summer.  Let’s hope I have the time to get them complete before autumn hits!

I really love the clean look of this skirt.  Since I used denim, I debated top-stitching all of the pieces like a pair of jeans, but I’m glad I held back.  This skirt looks really polished as-is and I highly recommend this pattern if that’s the look you want.

Has anyone made this pattern yet?  What is your favorite skirt pattern?

 

Happy Stitching,

Cristy

Kimberly Sac Sew-Along

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Kimberly Sac Title

Fat Quarter Shop has another great pattern….and it’s for a bag!  When I was asked to join this sew-along, I could not say “no.”  I love making bags just as much as I do quilting.  With the Kimberly Sac by Fig Tree Studios, you get both!  It is a great cross-body design with some simple patchwork.  I’m so excited to show you my version along with all of Fat Quarter Shops versions found here.

Kimberly Sac Fully Open

I like having different looks and feels to all of my bags.  After making my Indigo Sky Quilt, I fell in love with the Essex Yarn-Dyed Linen in nautical, so I wanted to incorporate it into the Kimberly Sac.  It really helps complement Carolyn Friedlander’s fabrics.  There is a mix of Carkai and Architextures Crosshatch in more earthly tones.

Kimberly Sac Quilting Close Up

The bag came together very quickly, especially without having to deal with a zipper.  I did use 1/4″ straight-line quilting, but you can opt for a more simple design.  If you decide on more heavier quilting like I did, I would suggest cutting the batting about 1″ larger all around and then trim it back.

Kimberly Sac Vinyl Strap

One of the most noticeable changes I made was to use vinyl for the straps and bottom of the Kimberly Sac.  The brown vinyl gives any bag an extra level of sophistication and structure.  Make sure to test the vinyl with your machine before committing though!

Button Stud Close Up

When I have to break out a hammer on a project, it’s a good day 🙂  I love playing with hardware and saw the opportunity to use this button stud when the pattern called for a traditional sew-on button.  The loop was replaced by a strip of vinyl I hand-punched.  This closure adds a fun edgy detail to the bag.

Kimberly Sac Side Close Up

A tip to keep these tags straight and in place, is to use some Sewline Glue. It allows you to place the pieces on the bag before top-stitching.  With so many layers, pins were distorting the tabs shape, so the glue helps them lay nice and flat for straight stitches.

Kimberly Sac Fully Profile

The Kimberly Sac was a nice easy sew and the lack of zippers makes it very beginner friendly!  I love the relaxed slouchy design and who doesn’t love the ease of a cross-body strap?  The Carkai and vinyl make this a great everyday bag for running errands and is large enough to handle everyday life.  What is the strangest thing you have to carry in your purse or bag?

  • Need the Full Kit with hardware and Strawberry Fields Revisited fabric?  You can find it here.
  • If you would like just the pattern, you can find that here.
  • Let’s make all of this even easier by watching full video tutorial with Fat Quarter Shop and Fig Tree Studio.


For more inspiration, visit all my Kimberly Sac Sew-Along  bag-mates below:

Fat Quarter Shop

Emily Ann’s Kloset
Seasoned Homemaker
Jedi Craft Girl
Sharon Holland Designs
Why Not Sew
She Can Quilt
Love You Sew (you are here)
Sweet Little Pretties

 

Have fun stitchin’!

Cristy

 

As part of the Fat Quartershop Kimberly Sac Sew-Along, I have been compensated for my time and materials.  However, all opinions are all my very own.