purse hardware – Love You Sew

Welcome to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!

Since all of my bag and accessory patterns are all digital, I have the luxury of unlimited pages and love the fact I can add more details into my instructions…but I know one photograph is not nearly enough for some of the more complicated steps. I was asked by YOU to provide a sew along and HAD to oblige! So if you already have some questions or comments, please post them below so I can address them during the month!

DETAILS

This sew along will be broken down into 6 parts as listed below and will be posted every Monday and Thursday throughout March, starting March 8th.

For some added fun, I have prizes for participating in this sew along on Instagram. Post any picture of your progress whether it be a fabric pull or the finished product and use the hashtags #loveyousewpatterns, #erinbackpack and #erinbackpacksewalong to be added into the pool of entries. I’ll randomly select a winner for $25 shop credit, a copy of all of my digital bag patterns, and a package of my favorite bag notions at the end of the month. It’s that simple! Don’t forget to tag me @loveyousew_ so I can see your makes along the way!

>> To get you going, you can grab the Erin Backpack pattern for 20% off and Hardware Kits for 15% off in my shop, here, all month long.

If you are ready for a little pre-work, you can checkout the introductory post of the Erin Backpack here and find lots of inspiration in the tester versions here.

Now let’s talk a little more in depth about fabric and supplies you need before we officially start next week!

FABRIC

As you know, the selection of fabric is KEY with any bag. You have to look a little into the future to see how you really want to use your Erin Backpack. Will it be used outdoors, for home, or maybe for the family? The answers will help you decide what fabrics you want to use. Below are the fabric notes (as written in the instructions of the pattern – in blue italics) along with some extra guidance.

This pattern is written for bottom-weight fabrics such as canvas, duck cloth, and denim with weights of ~ 6 oz per square yard or more. — For large bags like the Erin Backpack, you want a heavier and more durable main fabric that can withstand some beating. The last thing you want to do is make a bag with fabric that ends up wearing away before you want to stop using it. For the sew along, I will be using a heavy and durable 9 oz Expedition dry oilskin canvas by Merchant and Mills. I chose this fabric for the weight and color, but also for its water resistant properties which is PERFECT for an everyday backpack. On the flip side of heavy duty fabrics, you also want to be cautious with selecting a fabric that maybe TOO thick for your personal home machine. (I sew with a semi-industrial Juki and am confident it can handle this fabric.) There are points in the construction where you will be dealing with several layers of fabric, interfacing and accent fabric all combined. Always test the layers BEFORE sewing the actual bag.

*As a side note, since I’m using a treated fabric, the manufacturer states I cannot use heat or iron this fabric and will be adjusting interfacing in the first part of the sew-along (which is fine given the weight of the fabric.) So if you are using something like a waxed canvas or a vinyl, you will have to make sure the weight balances out the fact that you will have to omit some interfacing.

The lining is based on quilt cotton and any other fabric with the same weight (~4 oz) can be used such as linen, chambray and twill. — Since the lining does not get nearly as much wear as the main fabric, you can have more fun with a tight woven quilt cotton. This would also be a great place to use a light laminate like these from Cloud 9. If you want the inside to be wipeable, this is a nice laminate that is easy to sew through. I have such a deep stash of fabrics from old projects that I will be using leftovers from a linen blend fabric I used on a dress years ago….But doesn’t it look great with the canvas?!?

The accent fabric is intended to be left with a raw edge, allowing you to use leather, suede, vinyl, cork or another non-fraying substrate. This allows you to add some high-end details to elevate your bag. The Erin Backpack assumes the use of thicker 2-3 mm accent fabric. *If you use a thinner accent substrate like some corks or a lambskin leather, you may want to cut two handles for a sturdier finish. For this bag, I’ll be using some gold flecked cork fabric from Sew Sweetness and will show you how to finish this substrate, as well as how to reinforce some areas.

If you are looking for other sources of faux leather/vinyl Big Z Fabric’s has a nice selection and I’ve used the Terracotta DuroLast vinyl in a Megan Bucket Bag, here. This brand is great for a beginners with a more basic home machine because it’s thinner and MUCH easier to sew through. The pebbled finish makes it look like real leather too! Sew Sweetness also carries thinner faux leather as well…including the black I used for the pattern photography.

INTERFACING

The interfacing mix is based on these suggested fabrics and the foam is crucial to holding the structure, while still being pliable.

Please make sure you are using a non-fusible foam to avoid wrinkles on the main fabric as the bag wears. By Annie’s Soft and Stable is my preferred foam which is denser and thus, provides more structure than Pellon foam. You can grab it in my shop here. But if you can only get Pellon, it works well too.
For woven interfacing, I generally use 60” wide Pellon Shapeflex SF101, but I just tried out Barb’s Bags Interfacing (which is great too…just have to see how it wears before a full endorsement) to block fuse (when you fuse the interfacing to the fabric first and then cut out the pattern pieces…but we’ll get into more of this next week!) It’s allows me to use the entire width of fabric, but you generally can only find 20″ WOF in stores….which IMO is more wasteful.
For the firm stabilizer, Pellon Peltex sew-in interfacing is a great choice. It provides a stronger base for both the lid and bottom of the backpack.

If you would like to use other types of fabrics, please test interfacing with fabric swatches to see what you like before cutting.

HARDWARE

With a full-size backpack of this nature, there is a good bit of hardware involved. This helps the bag look more polished and gives the ability to be be a convertible bag. I’ve sourced some amazing hardware from Emmaline Bags and By Annie’s as part of a full kit you can find here in my shop.

The kit includes:
(4) 1 1/2″ Triangle Rings
(2) 1 1/2″ Swivel Clasps
(1) 1 1/2″ Rectangle Ring
(1) 1 1/2″ Strap Slider
(1) 1/2″ Swivel Clasp
(1) 1/2″ D-Ring
(3) Sets of 12.5 mm Double-Cap Spring Snaps
(5) Sets of Medium Double-Cap Rivets (9mm cap x 8mm post)
(20) Sets of Small Double-Cap Rivets (8mm cap x 6mm post)

Will we be going through some hardware installation? Yes! I know this is a tricky part for many folks and you can refer back to the Intro post for some links to videos I already have.

ZIPPERS

With four zippers in the Erin Backpack pattern using three different sizes, it’s a great idea to use zipper tape to cut exactly what you will need. I used metal zippers for a long time for their polished style, but have fallen in love with these nylon ones that look like metal! You can cut through them with craft scissors (don’t use your special fabric ones!) and sew right through them as well. There is no laborious effects to cut away teeth with these zippers! I love the ones from Emmaline Bags (if you are looking for basic colored tapes) and My Handmade Space for more variety in both tape color and teeth finishes.

Other Supplies

There are plenty of other supplies and notions I reference in the Erin Backpack pattern. For your ease, I’ve added them all onto an “Idea List” below through Amazon. It’s included my favorite glue, fabric punch, hardware setting tools, and also the interfacings mentioned above. I continue to add to all of my list as part of my Storefront all the time as I test out new products in my projects….so don’t forget to “like” it!

>> Making the Erin Backpack list on Amazon

I hope this is enough information to get you started on the Erin Backpack. Again, please post any questions and/or comments below. I’ll be sewing along with you so that I can address any concerns along the way!

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

Please note, this post contains affiliate links. Please refer to my Disclosures for additional information.

Of all the things I’m asked about in my sewing, I get the most questions about hardware. It’s such an easy way to take a project to the next level like with the Megan Bucket Bag and Claire Foldover Clutch hack. ‘Just an extra touch of metal can really take a bag from “homemade” to “handcrafted.” That’s exactly what I was looking for in my bag creations. Before I got a “fancy” hardware press, I installed all my rivets by hand for at least a year. And even with the press, I still set them manually based on my needs. Below is a quick video to show you how to install rivets and lots of my personal tips as well!

Megan Bucket Bag

Claire Fold-over Clutch

Materials

First, you need the right materials. Below are the materials and links (some affiliate) which I use in the video.

Steel Jeweler’s Bench – This is a small but mighty block and handles all of my own personal hardware needs. I used to set rivets on the basement floor (which you shouldn’t do, but we’ll discuss that later) and this block is such a game changer so I can use my own cutting table and not have to go down two flights of steps.
Fabric Hole Punch Pliers – This type of punch plier is by far my favorite. The bed of the tool where you place your fabric is plastic vs. metal. Some people like the metal bed because it will last longer, but I MUCH prefer the plastic bed because you will get better cuts and the actual hole bit will stay sharp longer. Yes, the bed will begin to wear away but there is a replacement and each one will last you a long time…probably longer than the bit.
Rivet Setter – My preferred tool is this larger 9mm one because I personally use rivets with caps this large. This will be able to set smaller ones too!
Concave Anvil – Since I’m using double-cap rivets, a concave anvil is needed to keep the shape of the other cap, else it will completely flatten.
Hammer – I’ve used a few different hammers – small and large and I really like this Fiskar’s one. The grip is comfortable and the 12 oz head allows for a good solid strike. You can certainly use a mallet instead, but I’ve had good luck with just a hammer.
Double-Cap Rivets – These are the “small” rivets with an 8 mm head and 6 mm stem. I use this size the most for decorative application and will move up to a longer stem for thick folded straps. I prefer double to single cap rivets purely for inventory purposes to handle all of my needs.

Process

In the video, I take you through both leather and fabric applications which are pretty much the same. I included a few tips but want to elaborate a little more based on my own experience.

Work at counter-height – For me, my results are MUCH better when I work at counter-height (while standing) versus working on the floor. I know when you first start out, the concrete basement or garage floor might be the hardest surface you have and this is definitely how I started out with rivet application. But there is something about leaning over a project that increases the arc (maybe?) of my swing and I ended up with a lot of crooked, ill-placed rivets. So, if you can, I highly suggest working on an old table – over one of the legs for extra stability.

Select the right size rivet for EACH project – Initially, you may get the urge to just buy one size to fit all of your needs, but there is a reason there are SO many difference size combinations. While the cap is more for aesthetics, the stem length is key in a proper application. I recommend about 3-5mm stem longer than the thickness of your project when you finger-press down on it. You want the stem to be long enough to mushroom into the cap. Else, your project may pull apart later with use. But you don’t want it so long that it could “over-mushroom” and damage the cap. The extra length also provides more opportunity for a crooked installation. So, that’s why you want to minimize your risk. 6mm and 8mm posts were pretty much all I used for a long time and then I expanded out later when I was working with thicker substrates

Hold Setter down at base close to rivet – This provides the most control so the setter is aligned and straight over the rivet. If you hold the setter too high, the impact of the hammer may move the setter and you could get an unsightly imprint on the cap.
Spin the rivet between your fingers to check for a proper application (1:18 in video) – You know that the rivet is completely installed when you can’t rotate it between your fingers. It shouldn’t be able to move at all. If the rivet is still loose or you can still see the stem, go back and install again.

Abbey Convertible Backpack

If you do have a crooked installation or accidentally mis-aligned the setter on a rivet cap, I’ll show you how to remove a rivet with next week’s blog post. Please share below if you have even more tips to help along fellow readers!

Enjoy!

Cristy

This post may contain affiliate links. Please read about all of my disclosure here.

Love You Sew

Handcrafted from the Heart

Tag: purse hardware

Announcing the Erin Backpack Sew-Along!