M7429 Pine Crest Velvet by Love You Sew

Holiday Dressing with Stretch Velvet

Nothing says “Happy Holidays” more than some velvet. There is just something about this fabric that conjures up feelings of wintertime mixed with luxury…especially in deep royal blue. Luckily, it is also one of the hot fabrics of the minute with odes to the 90s still in full fashion swing.

Fabric

The nap of velvet gives the fabric its trademark characteristic. The soft texture lends some weight, which makes it a great fall/winter substrate. With the popularity of velvet, there are a lot of options currently out in the market. There are non-stretch and stretch varieties which is great based on what you would like to make…whether it be a structured blazer, tights or a dress.

I was able to get this gorgeous Royal Radiance Velvet Spandex from my friends over at Pine Crest Fabrics. When they asked if I wanted to try out one of their velvets, I just couldn’t say no (even with a month full of other sewing commitments.) I knew that this velvet would be special since Pine Crest is a company that specializes in high performance fabrics…and friends, this Royal Radiance did not disappoint. You can find similar fabrics at Fabric.com here.

What makes this fabric incredible is the base cloth. I’ve made a few garments which you can read about here, using other Pine Crest athletic fabrics and I knew the velvet’s “wrong side” would be silky smooth…and it was! The 4-way 10% Spandex stretch made it ideal for a form-fitting dress and it has great recovery – so the dress keeps its shape. Even with the heavier weight of this fabric, it remained cool and breathable which is key when wearing this fabric out to a party.

Velvet Tips

  • Pay attention to the nap. Make sure it feels smooth running down the garment and cut pattern pieces with this in mind…because you know you will want to pet yourself!
  • If you do need to iron, use a towel as a pressing cloth to avoid crushing the pile. (There was hardly any wrinkling with my dress, so I luckily didn’t have to press often.)
  • There is a little mess cutting into velvet. Run a sticky roller on the velvet immediately after your cuts to keep the fuzz at bay.
  • Use a stretch or jersey needle with stretch velvet.

The Pattern

For my holiday dress, I used McCall’s #M7429. Variation B was exactly what I wanted for my stretch velvet. I wanted something more form-fitting, but NOT body-con. (I am not a skin-tight kinda gal.) This front knot and half-wrap design is perfect for camouflaging one of my trouble spots, but is also visually appealing. Only a solid fabric could really show off this design element and using my Royal Radiance just made it SO much better.

No lie…I was definitely tripped up by the knot. I was able to get pretty far with the limited illustrations and instructions known with the Big 4 pattern companies. Luckily, I found this video by Brittany Jones to help guide me through.

These Big 4 patterns also tend to allow more ease into their recommended sizes, so I was a bit concerned on what size to cut. I went with the pattern’s recommendation and feel like I could have probably gone down one size because there is quite a bit of fabric hanging under my arms and into the bust. The shoulders could be cut in 1″ on each side as well. Other modifications I made:

  • Graded out one size in hips down to the hem, including the back pieces
  • Narrowed the sleeves 1″ (folded) at the wrist and graded to the elbow
  • Shorted sleeves by an additional 1″
  • Increased hem by 1.25″
  • Deepened the neckline by an additional 1/4″
  • Tacked the wrap skirt into the knot with a few hand-stitches to keep it straight

What do you think about velvet for this holiday season? There’s still time to make this dress for Christmas or New Year’s!

Happy Holidays!

Cristy


*Fabric for this post was provided by Pinecrest Fabrics. As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.

Sew Your Own Rashguard

When I first started making my own clothes a few years ago, it was mainly because I was so frustrated with buying ready-to-wear for my new “mom-body.”  All I wanted was just some easy separates that were cute, actually fit me, and worked with my lifestyle.  Fast forward to the present and here I am with my first bathing suit!  I never imagined I would have sewn one….let alone, show you all of my current “mom bod’ in said suit.

But sometimes, you are so inspired, that you just have to take the challenge and go for it.  I was so impressed with all the DIY swimsuits on social media that I knew I had to eventually make something for myself.  I was given the opportunity to select a print from Pine Crest Fabric’s expansive library of designs and substrates.   I chose this gorgeous palm digital print on Viper Base Cloth that just screamed swimwear.  I never made any type of swimwear but my previous experience making athleisure leggings and a tunic which you can read about here, gave me the confidence to work with performance based fabric.

Earlier in the year, my oldest son needed a new rashguard, and was impressed when I saw a half-zip pullover style at a big box store.  That zipper feature was so helpful and made it much easier to pull that wet top off his body.  That’s when I thought I wanted one for myself!  My boys love swimming and we are at the pool quite a bit nowadays and also spend a good bit of time at the family lake house.  I can use it to cover up myself, save my skin from being in the sun so much, and even as a bit of wind protection when on a boat or wave runner.

After doing a bit of research (thanks Instagram hashtags!) I found the Grace Swimsuit by Swimstyle.  It wasn’t exactly what I wanted, but definitely the closest out there and I love the sporty look of the side panels and neckband.  The pattern calls for an exposed zipper 3/4 the way down the front of the rashguard, but I hacked it so the zipper would go down all the way creating a jacket for easy removal.  The bottoms were made with Acacia Underwear pattern by Megan Nielsen and hacked to be reversible.

To make the Gracie into a full-zip rashguard, I added 1/4″ along the fold of the front pattern piece and then cut along that fold to create the two sides.  I used an 18″ sport style plastic separating zipper and added a back placket so the zipper would not rub and possibly irritate my skin.  You know I always like a good zipper cover, so I extended the placket to cover the zipper head and keep it secured.

I do not have a coverstitch machine, so I used a combination of the flat-lock seam option of my serger along with the zig-zag capabilities of my old back-up machine.  The raglan style sleeves made the flat-lock possible and I love the sporty look.  The best part is there is no hanging interior seam to irritate the skin.  All the seams are nice and flush against the body, making the rashguardd so incredibly comfortable. TIP: Use stretch needles in all of your machines when dealing with performance fabric.

The neck and wristbands were all serged onto the rashguard but I used a simple sig-zag stitch around the hem and it has held up well.  There has been a bit of tunneling after wear, so maybe a bit of knit stabilizer like this tape could help with that…but I’m okay with the hem as is!

By making the bottoms reversible, I thought the light compression of the Spectrum Pro-Matte with UPF Protection along with the Viper Base Cloth would be enough and omitted the elastic as part of the pattern.  With my wider hips, I definitely need a little extra hold right on the cheeks and need to make sure I add the elastic back in.  The stretch around the waist and front leg is absolutely perfect though.  Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to make another pair before our family trip to the lake, so guess what’s back on the sew list?!?

This suit is exactly what I wanted this summer and I can’t begin to tell you how creamy and luxurious these performance fabrics feel.  They are so smooth….and that’s why I have three other garments made from Pine Crest fabrics!  As of the date of publication, this fabric print is available for wholesale only, but you can head to Fabric.com to check out other available Pine Crest prints.

Lake Leelanau, MI

Project Stats:

‘Hope you are enjoying your summer!!!  Have you sewn up any special projects this season?

 

Happy Sewing Friends,

Cristy


Fabric was provided by Pine Crest Fabrics for this post.  The swimwear project and all opinions are my very own.  The post also contains affiliate links which help to keep this website ticking.  Thank you always for your support.