Tag: faux leather

Christine Sling Tester Inspiration

The Christine Sling pattern pulls together a classic camera bag silhouette with a modern wide statement strap. The possibilities of fabric combinations are truly endless.  For a full rundown of pattern specifics, including features and where to source materials, check out the Christine Sling Intro here.

TESTER BAGS

As I develop a pattern, there are so many considerations that have to take place.  My first priority is to always make a bag approachable for beginning sewists who have basic domestic machines.  That’s why I like to always like to have full fabric versions of a pattern, but I also like to show more complex versions with other substrates for more advanced bag-makers.  My testing group runs the gambit of experience and I am so appreciative of their knowledge and different skillsets.

Carrie (@carriedwithyou) made not one, but TWO tester versions of the Christine Sling.  Her first make was this sweet floral version with natural cork accents and metal-look nylon zippers.  Then…Carrie went to the other side of the spectrum for a dark and sleek version of the bag using some webbed matte vinyl and incredible red accents. She used seatbelt webbing for the strap giving the whole look some chic vibes!  You can find out her patterns and finished bags for sale at www.carriedwithyou.com.

Maggie (@ms.maggiemakes) is an incredible bag-maker and I love her use of different fabric patterns and color.  Her version of the Christine Sling did not disappoint my expectations at all!  She used this great pink mirror-effect vinyl along with a mix of donut quilt cotton for her bag.  I love the way she using upholstery trim for the piping instead of the “plain” stuff I used.  It makes her bag SO much fun!  Follow her instagram to see her makes…many are for sale too 😉

Mallory (@malloryhillmakes) is a local friend and also my copy-editor.  She makes incredible bags and clothes, which makes her invaluable with technical knowledge.  Her boho version of the Christine is just perfect for everyday!  The leather accents and piping, help to give more depth and framing to the bag.  It will make a statement with any outfit!  You can follow her blog at www.malloryhill.com.

Robbin (@sewfarmquilter) is the newest team member of the testing group.  I have been following her since my quilting days and was so happy to know she wanted to test the Christine! Her version of the bag is very classy and demure on the outside, but pure party on the inside.  I’m a sucker for a wild bag lining (since RTW ones are always boring!) and this one is perfect.  If you can see, Robbin scalloped the edges of her leather accents to add more texture and appeal.  It is such a great look!  Check out all of Robbin’s makes on her instagram.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, but NOTHING is more heart-warming than it is to see my patterns sewn up by all of YOU!  For a full-range of different takes on the Christine Sling, check out the hashtag, #christinesling, on Instagram.  You know I follow it 😉 and LOVE being tagged in all of your makes.

These pictures are so inspirational and I hope you are able to get some ideas when you make your Christine Sling.  Pattern available here.

 

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

Tiny Sophia Bag HACK: Travel Sanitizer Holder

As the world goes on, we know washing hands and using sanitizer is LIFE right now. It is SO important to stay healthy and protect ourselves against all germs – pandemic or not!  Washing hands with soap is the preferred way to keep them clean, but when there isn’t a sink around hand sanitizer is a decent alternative. You can read more about the benefits of hand-washing here with the CDC.

Like all of you, I want to keep my family safe and have sanitizer on them at all times – especially as school opened up for my kids. But of course, supplies have been (and still are) very bare.  Trying to find those manufactured jelly style travel sanitizer holders was just impossible. That’s when I took it upon myself to make cases for my kids and husband.

Different size travel bottles

It turns out that the Tiny Sophia Bag (read about it here) is the right width to hold most travel sanitizers! The height just needs to be adjusted and that’s where this hack was born. This hack will take you through the steps to transform your #tinypurse to a sanitizer holder for most 1-2 oz travel bottles.  I tried to find a variety of bottles to test so you can see how they fit and decided to create one version for bottles from 1-1.6 oz and then another version that can fit 2 oz bottles.  If you are using bottles different from any of those pictured, be sure to check the template against your sanitizer BEFORE cutting any material.

2 oz Holder vs 1 oz Holder

 

 

Materials Needed:

  • The Tiny Sophia Bag pattern – found here
  • Ruler
  • Extra paper
  • Marking Instrument
  • Clear Tape

Tutorial

***Please note there are adjustments depending on whether you are making a holder for a 1.0-1.6 oz. bottle versus a 2 oz. bottle.   Please read instructions carefully.

1. Cut the pattern template out per instructions. Mark the cut line along where the bottom flap meets the sides.

2. Take a scrap piece of paper (wider than the bottom flap) and mark a 1″ high extension for 1-1.6 oz. sanitizer bottles. *If you have a 2 oz. bottle, you will want to mark a 2″ high extension.

3. Cut the bottom flap off the bag template following your markings

4. Line up the top of the pattern along the extension and tape into place.

5. Take a ruler and mark the right side of the extension aligning it to the Top flap’s side edge.

6. Repeat on the left side of the extension.

7. Line up the bottom flap to the lower side of the extension making sure it matches the side markings.

8. Trim away the excess paper.  Mark a line 1/2″ from the top of the extension. *If you are making a 2 oz. bottle holder, mark a line 1″ from the top of the extension.

9. Use a sanitizer bottle cap as your opening.  (This replaces the Charger Opening.)  Center it vertically on the template and place it just under mark made in the previous step.  Trace.

10. Carefully cut out the circle with paper scissors.

11. Check that the sanitizer bottle you want to use fits through the opening on the template. Adjust as needed.

12.  Check that the template fits around the bottle by aligning the hardware holes.  Adjust as needed.  Once you are satisfied with the fit, follow the steps in The Tiny Sophia Bag to finish your  travel sanitizer holder!

Notes:

This cork version uses the 1 oz adjustment, but if I were to make it again just for this style of sanitizer bottle from Bath & Body Works, I would make a slightly wider opening to accommodate  that wider flip-cap.

I added stitching to all of my samples in this post, but you don’t have to.  Using faux leather with felt backings like these pictured above leave no fraying and make this a fast and simple project.

With the holidays ahead, these will make such great gifts!  So I will switch up the hardware to swivel clasps on the back so they can hang easily from key chains, purses and backpacks.

Where to find supplies:

  • For Cork or Faux Leather, I’m a big fan of Sew Sweetness.  Shipping is flat-rate, fast and I think a great deal!
  • For real leather and a variety of finishes, TanneryNYC has remnant bags.  I received small – medium sized cuts and was able to make several Tiny Sophia Bags out of the surprise shipment. These are high quality pieces of soft leather.
  • I love Emmaline Bags and By Annie’s hardware, but if you are looking for a value set for kids, I recently bought these (pictured on yellow case) and these from Amazon.
  • For Snaps, I used spring style ones from Gold Star tool, but recently fell in love with these Rivet Magnets from Kam Snaps (as seen with the pink cork version above.)

 

I hope you enjoy this hack and find it useful in our current environment.  Please drop a comment and let me know what you think!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Any earnings go right back into powering this website.  Please read my Disclosures here.

Introducing The Tiny Sophia Bag

2 Comments

We are in the thick of the holiday season and I thought I did some pretty good seasonal planning.  I made gifts for my nieces and nephew early since I went to visit them in November and even got my fancy holiday dress finished by my husband’s birthday a few weeks ago.  But then I shared my Tiny Sophia Bag with all of you on Instagram and my feed (DMs too!) filled up with requests for this pattern.  You caught me in a moment of weakness because I said, “Sure, why not?!  This is probably the time when you would like this pattern the most!”  So why not add another “thing” to the list…famous last words. Lol!

You can purchase the Tiny Sophia Bag here.

If you have been following my stories on IG, I shared these itty bitty purses by Jaquemus which I’ve been seeing all over the fashion reports.  Although completely useless as an actual purse (and WAY too expensive *eyeroll*) I still wanted one…but of course, in my own DIY way!  Spoiler alert – my way is MUCH more cost effective.

Over the summer, I toyed around with some paper templates to make a tiny bag for fun, but nothing really came out of it.  Then a visit back east to see my family made me really notice the wireless ear pods my brother was wearing.  Shortly after that, Lizzo came out on the red carpet with a tiny Valentino bag!  Combine these events and it made me wonder if the pods had a carrying case…aaaand if that case could also be a purse!

Namesake

As I was developing this pattern and making all of the prototypes, I knew this bag would be named after my niece, Sophia.  (All of my bag patterns are named after one of my nieces.)  Miss Sophia is a petite lil’ lady and the absolute CUTEST…just like this bag!  She is always game for a little fun and adventure, which makes her a great travel companion.  Since her dad was also part of the inspiration, it’s only fitting that this bag is named after her.

View B

Features

I know there are a ton of aftermarket pod cases out there and I thought a leather one would be chic and beautiful.  After a few hours (with my husband and boys at basketball practice,) I was able to draft a headphone case AND a bag by switching up the options.  This is no-sew pattern with two different views and the features can certainly be mixed and matched!

  • View A  “Mini Purse” – This has a strap on the top flap with a D-ring on the back and a snap closure.
  • View B “Accessory Case” – This has a bottom slot opening for a charger and the D-ring is set on the side.  A button stud is used as the closure.

View A

Hardware

The Tiny Sophia Bag requires rivet and snap or button stud installation.  This is assumed in the pattern (and I promise I will add more posts about how I install.)  I want to let you know my favorite suppliers:

  • Rivets:  For a long time, I set these just using just a hammer and anvil.  You can find these tools  in my shop, here.  Emmaline Bags carries a wide variety of sixes in different finishes. (Pictured above are the “small” rivets in Antique brass.)
  • Snaps: I’m a big fan of double-cap spring snaps from Gold Star Tool.  These are the same ones I used for my Kelly Anorak which you can find here. (On the cover photo, I have a size 20 ligne brass snap.)
  • Button Studs (screw on): These are THE best, since there are no special setting tools needed…just a screwdriver.  I grab most of mine from Amazon and I like the Tandy ones (when I’m in a pinch for timing since there is a store nearby.)  I think the 6mm/7mm head ones are a good proportion for this small bag.  (The 8mm head studs are used in my Kelly Waist Bag pattern)

New SVG Files

A big addition to this pattern release is the inclusion of SVG (scalable vector graphic) files which you can use with most electronic cutting machines.  I’ve always imported images and traced my own files, but have never created ones from Illustrator before.  So, I was pleasantly surprised to see how this pattern cut on my machine!  I have an old Silhouette Cameo with a straight knife and the cork cut so well on setting #7.  It did not like leather though…I’m hoping the rotary blades do much better.  There are three files for the different views and an extra one to combine all of the features together.  Please let me know what you think about this new feature!

Cutting by Hand

For those who don’t have a cutting machine, please know that I made all of these Tiny Sophia Bags by hand.  After making lots of leather bags and over a dozen of these minis, here are a few tips and tricks that will help you though.

  • I LOVE this heavy duty multi-blade craft knife set by Fiskars.  The different blades are great depending on the type of cut you need to make…my fave is the 1/2″ straight edge one.
  • The pattern essentially looks like a cross, so the edges are right angles.  If you match up the sides with a ruler, you’ll have a smoother (and more accurate) cut.
  • Use a metal ruler with a craft knife for the straight edges.
  • For thicker leather/suede, you might want to use a box cutter for a stronger blade and press down on the ruler so it doesn’t drag.
  • Speaking of blades, remember to use a new one that’s nice and sharp for clean cuts.
  • With the curves, try to find household objects like bowls that match to balance your knife against.
  • For the back D-Ring opening, one of my testers said a button-hole cutter like this one is great for cutting the edges.

Customize

There are so many different ways to customize your Tiny Sophia Bag.  Luckily, I have a nice stash of leather scraps from thrifting and from friends.  You can use leather, suede, faux leather, and even cork!  Based on the thickness of your substrate, you may have to adjust the position of the holes which is also covered in the the pattern 😉

Check out #TheTinySophiaBag on social media to see all of the different versions.  I like the extra stitching around the edges to make the bag look more polished (don’t forget to use that leather needle and teflon or walking foot!)  Many of my testers used decorative hardware too.  I can’t wait to see what you do!

If you are ready for the cutest little purse, you can grab the Tiny Sophia Bag pattern, here.  Use it to carry your trinkets, coins, and all the smartphone accessories.  One of my testers mad bags for her daughters’ dolls!  I’m adding one of these on my Christmas tree and will use it later to hang off my purse for my own headphones.

How would you use your Tiny Sophia Bag?

 

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my Disclosure, here.

Minikin Sidewinder Review – Plus Drop-In Lining Hack

4 Comments

It is no secret I love Sew Sweetness patterns by Sara Lawson.  I’ve come to really trust her instructions and I love all the innovative ways Sara constructs her bags.  She has written quite a few patterns and has a nice variety of large bags down to small accessories.  You can read about a few of my makes below:

  • Aeroplane Bag – here
  • Crimson and Clover Traincases – here and here
  • Trompe le Monde Bag – here
  • Appaloosa Bag – here

Right before Halloween, Sew Sweetness released a whole collection of 12 small accessory pouches and bags called the Minikins.  These were all designed to be quick sews which use mostly fat quarters.  There are many bags patterns out there which can take several hours and even days to complete.  Sometimes you just need to be able to complete a project in one sitting to feel accomplished and these definitely do just that.

The real bonus is that this pattern collection also comes with 12 step-by-step videos!  How amazing is that?!?  These are great if you are a novice or even like me, who may need help around a few steps.  It’s great to watch them just to pick up some of Sara’s tricks.

It was so hard to pick which Minikin I would make first.   But since I was heading into heavy craft market mode, I wanted this project to be THE quickest.  So, I selected the Sidewinder because of the curved-no seam-bottom.   This looked perfect for someone short on time and you just need non-directional fabric.  (For these unicorns, I did piece together the exterior because of the direction.)

For all of my Sidewinders, I used the recommended Annie’s Soft and Stable, but also interfaced all the quilt cotton (exterior and interior with Pellon SF101 for added structure.)  The Pellon SF101 on the exterior fabric helps prevent extra stretching and puckering when basting with the Soft and Stable.

For all of the gussets, I used either cork or faux leather, all found in the Sew Sweetness shop.  It’s nice to find so many substrates all in one place.  (Gotta love that flat-rate shipping too!)  It helps amplify the bag design and really make them look professional with cork or faux leather.  The corners get a little tricky, but you can muscle through it and use Sara’s technique in her video.

This pattern and some of the other Minikins make use of a drop-in lining.  This is when the lining and bag exterior are constructed separately and then joined together (usually through top-stitching around the zipper.)  Even with all the bags as I have made….I’m terrible at attaching  drop-in linings!  I can’t get my seams to match up so my stitching consistently catches all of the lining…grrr…  I tried pins and even glue basting the linings.  But when I have to maneuver around end of the zippers, something always manages to shift.  I’ve also spent an absurd amount of time trying to hand-sew in the linings…and this girl just doesn’t have time for that!  So, that’s why I devised my own lining hack.

{Edited to reference the step #’s per Sidewinder instructions.}

In step #5, skip the top-stitching.  Complete step #7 per instructions, stopping before you top-stitch the Lining Side Panel down.  With left over scraps, I cut approximately (2) 3″x1.5″ rectangles and folded each in half lengthwise.  Each rectangle was centered and placed behind the zipper openings as shown in the red oval. Continue with the instructions to top-stitch the Lining Side Panel, along with these extra rectangles.

This method provides me with about 1/2″ of extra lining for my stitching to catch on either side of the zipper.  The rest of the lining and exterior are completed as instructed.

As personal preference, I glue baste the lining to just barely covering my zipper stitches and use clips to hold them into place until the glue dries.

 There is no such thing as too many clips, right?!?

With a larger needle (16,) I top-stitch around the zipper with the exterior panels facing out.  You can see how it catches the lining below.  Using a thread to match the lining helps to hide any wonkiness 😉

I use this method to have one line of stitching versus the method in the pattern.  Personally, I like the cleaner look, but there is no structural difference.  I’ve seen others create two parallel lines of stitching for a nice detail as well.

 You can see at the zipper ends, my sewing isn’t perfect, but I am able to always secure the entire lining no matter how much wrestling I have to do with a bag. The extra lining fabric give me a nice cushion!

I finished the Sidewinder with just a rivet to add a little extra polish to the pouch.  A little hardware goes a long way to make your project look professional.

This is great fast sew that has so much visual appeal for being a “pouch.”  It definitely set my products apart from other craft market vendors and I’m SO happy for that!  Check out a few of my different versions below.


Project Details:

 

Have you tried out the Minikins yet?  I hope you like my drop-in lining hack and let me know how it works for you,  if you decide to try it out!

 

Keep Sewing Along,

Cristy

 

Please note this post DOES include affiliate links and I have received the pattern free as part of being a Sew Sweetness bag tester.  I was not required to write a blog post and you know all words are my own.  

 

Quilted Envelope Clutch :: Free Tutorial

7 Comments

quilted-envelope-clutch_title

Envelope Clutches are everywhere right now and I was inspired by it simple and timeless shape.  This Quilted Envelope Clutch design is over-sized to give you ample room for all of your essentials, but still is nice  enough to go from day to night.  It’s a sleek bag when paired with the right faux (or real) leather.  Coincidentally, this clutch design also fits a MacBook Pro perfectly, so its versatile and you can change up the fabrics to make it as laptop holders.

As I wrote in last week’s post from the Observer blog tour here, I like to show how hip and modern quilting can be.  I love how the piecing of a half log-cabin accentuates the envelope shape and the monotone palette keeps it chic.  Simple quilting adds enough texture and detail without being over-the-top…or over-worked.

This tutorial is for the faux leather version and finishes at approximately 14 3/4″ x 10 1/2″.  As with all patterns, don’t jump the gun…please ready through the instructions in their entirety.  Shoot me an email and/or leave me a comment if you have any questions.  Enjoy!

Materials Required:

  • Faux leather/ Vegan leather / Vinyl (1/2 yd)
  • Lining & Pocket Fabric (1 yd)
  • Pieced Panel scraps (1/4 yd)
  • Pieced Panel Lining Fabric (1/4 yd)
  • Woven Fusible Interfacing [Pellon SF101] (2 1/2 yds)
  • Ultra-firm Sew-In Interfacing [Pellon 70 Peltex] (1 yd)
  • 9″ Zipper
  • Magnetic Snap
  • Coordinating Thread(s)
  • Poster Board (optional for cutting pattern templates)
  • Spray Baste or Fabric Glue Pen (optional)
  • Clover Clips

 Cutting Instructions: 

  1. Create the body and center panel cutting templates following the black numbers.  Make markings for the numbers and lines in purple.
    • Cut the angles by finding the mid-point of the short-sides of each template.  cutting-template
    • Round out each of the “envelope points” using a large spool of threadimg_7001
  2. Use your larger template to cut:
    • (1) Body with faux leather
    • (1) Lining
    • (2) Woven Fusible Interfacingsp1060660
  3. With the Firm Sew-In Interfacing, cut:
    • (2) 14 3/4″ x 9 3/4″ rectangles
    • (1) Triangle per the following photo:img_7014a
  4. For pieced Center Panel (as a half log-cabin), cut:
    • (1) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square
    • (34) 5″ x 1 1/2″ strips
    • Use smaller template to cut (1) Center Panel liningp1060674
  5. For Lining Pockets, cut:
    • (1) 16″ x 11″ rectangle with the lining fabric
    • (1) 16″ x 11″ rectangle with fusible woven interfacing
    • (1) 9″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle with faux leather

Construction:

(1/4″ seam allowance unless otherwise noted)

  1. Interface the body.  *Please check and test the heat settings beforehand.  Not all vinyl/faux leather is created equal.

    • Place the Peltex pieces per the following photo.  Leave 3/8″ allowance all around the edge of the vinyl.  Keep 3/4″ in between the (2) 14 3/4″ x 9 3/4″ pieces.  Make sure you align the Peltex triangle long edge with the top corners of the vinyl.  You can can secure them in place with a little spray baste or with Sewline glue pen.  *It’s important to have the Peltex split into 3 pieces to give the ease and flexibility where the clutch will fold.  It will also alleviate some of the “cracking” appearance that can happen with interfacings that are forced to moved a lot.p1060663
    • Use one of the fusible woven interfacing pieces and fuse on top of the firm sew-in interfacing.  You may need to work the edges of the SF101 around the Peltex with your iron. Set aside.interface-vinyl
  2. Fuse the 2nd piece of fusible woven interfacing to your lining.  Set aside
  3. Fuse the pocket fusible woven interfacing to the pocket lining fabric.  Set aside
  4. Prepare Center Panelp1060670
    • Piece as desired.  I used a traditional half log-cabin design, but you can use anything that you like as long as it can be trimmed to the Center Panel template you created earlier.
      • Line up the short-end of the first strip (gray-blue speck) with the edge of the square (eagle) and sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.  Press open
      • Line up the short end of another strip (navy dashes) with the opposite edge of the square (eagle) and sew.  Alternate sides until you have used all 34 strips.
      • Use Center Panel template and trim to fit.
    • Assemble the Center Panel by placing the right-sides of the center piecing with the center panel lining.p1060675
    • Sew all around leaving an opening at the TOP to turn.p1060676
    • Notch out the BOTTOM and all cornersp1060678
    • Pull right-side out and press
  5. Line up the center panel on top of the right-side of the faux leather.  Make sure it’s even on both sides of the panel.  You can secure it into place using pins since you don’t see the faux leather.p1060680
  6. Topstitch into place.  It may seem easier to have sewn this panel onto the vinyl before all of the interfacing, but this is how you will secure all of the Peltex into place and prevent any shifting with use.p1060683TIPS:
    • Use upholstery thread or any other nylon/polyester thread.  I like the upholstery for the heavier weight, the sheen, and it glides well through all of the layers.
    • Increase your stitch-length to at least 3.0 for a nice look
    • Use a walking foot for even stitches
    • You may need to increase your needle size if the thread is not pulling through and/or you are getting skipped stitches
    • Keep matching all-purpose polyester thread in the bobbin.  It helps with skipped stitches.
  7. At this point, you can quilt the vinyl, if desired.  Set the body aside.IMG_6780 IMG_6880
    • TIP:  Use washi tape for your guidelines. Chalk and pen will easily smear off the faux leather.IMG_6772
  8. Attach pockets onto lining
    • With the flat edge of the lining on top and right side facing you, measure 3″ down from the straight edge and 3 1/4″ in on either side.  Pin (where you will sew) the faux leather into place 1/8″ from the edges (marked in yellow.)  You can leave this as a large slip pocket or you can divide it for your cell phone.  I marked mine 3 1/2″ in from the edge to hold an iPhone 6. Sew the three edges into place and then the dividing seam (marked by yellow.)img_7026
  9. Turn the lining 180 degrees.  With the right-side facing you, mark 10 1/2″ down from the top of the lining and pin the short-side of the  pocket lining fabric there.  Mark a rectangle 1″ down from the top and sides of the pocket that is 9″ x 3/8″ (blue pen.)  p1060690
  10. Sew all-around the 9″ x 3/8″ rectangle on the marks you made.  Cut through the rectangle as shown, stopping about 1/4″ from the end (red pen lines.) [Image a]. Make small cuts from the middle out to each corner, getting close to the stitches, but not cutting directly through.  Push pocket through the hole [images b & c] and press [image d].lining-pocket-collage
  11. With the right side of the lining facing you, line up the zipper in the opening just created.  Either pin in place or use Sewline glue pen.  Sew 1/8″ all around the opening.img_7024
  12. With the wrong-side of the lining facing you, fold up the pocket so the short-sides match.  Press on the fold.  Pin all around the pocket, but not including the lining. Sew pocket shut (following blue dashed lines in pictures.)  Make sure you move the lining out-of-the-way as you sew.img_7025

Assembly:

  1. Now match the right-sides of the lining and body together.  Clip in place and sew all around the edge (marked in blue) with a 3/8″ seam allowance.  Back-stitch when you start and end leaving a 5″ opening to turn. Notch out corners and the top of the clutch.  Be very careful not to cut through any stitches.img_7032
    • TIP:  Use a compensating foot or a zipper foot since the Peltex give you can uneven surface. img_7034
  2. With wrong sides together, make markings for your magnetic snap and install per manufacturer’s instructions.  With the point being so narrow at the top of the clutch, you may need to move your snap up or down to make sure there is enough clearance for all parts of the clasp.  For the male part, I marked mine 1 1/4″ down from the top edge of the lining and marked the female where it hit the body (approx. 7″ from straight short side.)
    • TIP: Before you install, reinforce where you will cut with a scrap piece of interfacing.p1060602
  3. Turn the body right-side out and press with the lining facing up.  Be careful not to press the faux leather directly with your iron.
    • TIP:  Use Clover Clips on the edges to help them stay flat and/or hammer them as well.  Hammering helps to flatten the edges so top-stitching will be easier in the next step.  Test the hammer method on scrap to make sure the hammer doesn’t leave marks.
  4. img_7036Time to {finally} make the envelope!
    • Top-stitch along the straight short-end of the body (red dashed line)
    • Fold the front of the clutch up 10″ to create the main pocket and secure the sides into place with Clover Clips
    • Top-stitch all along the clutch (following the yellow dashed line)
      • TIPS:
        • Use a large 16 or 18 needle to get through all the layers
        • Increase stitch-length to 3.5-4.0 and use your walking foot to achieve even stitches
        • GO SLOW so that you do not skip stitches
        • Hammer the edges again, if needed
        • Leave long thread tails so you can pull them through the lining and hide for a cleaner finish
    • Hide thread tails by pulling them toward the lining, knot, then bury.
    • Press the lining

img_7063

If you want to get extra fancy, you can add some additional finishes.  Some examples are:

  • Sew a wristlet handle with hardware (as shown)
  • Just add the D-ring so you can attach some fun tassels.
  • Include a key fob on the inside
  • Attach rivets and grommets

img_7042

 

CONGRATS!!!  You have made a #LYSquiltedenvelopeclutch!  Please, please share your creations.  I would love to see them all!

As long as you credit Love You Sew with the pattern (because it took me a long time to write this all up,) you are free to sell the finished clutch.

Product Details (Sources in Links):