The Claire Fold-over Clutch was my very first published pattern just over a year ago. I can’t believe it’s been that long already. I put my own twist on the popular bag style with a large easy access pocket on the back and the simple use of leather one side of the bag – making it easier to sew. You can read more about my design here and see lots of different versions with #clairefoldoverclutch on Instagram.
My designs are meant to be practical, but also chic enough to work with new trends and fashion with just a change of fabric. This is the case with the Claire. Although it was written to use both fabric and leather, I thought it would be fun to make a full leather version — in cobalt blue for a real statement bag. This blue leather is pretty edgy and gave me rock ‘n roll vibes right away. So, I thought a guitar strap would give the bag a new look all on it’s own…even after making dozens of other Claire Fold-over Clutches!
This amazing woven tapestry-like ribbon was found at a yard sale a few years ago. I think I bought it for $1-2 and was drawn to the bright blue edges contrasting against that moody floral motif. I like mixing up new and old looks, so this trim was definitely all me. The leather was picked up from a destash group and so I was able to grab an amazing deal. The seller was getting out of her baby shower business and had so many pretty pieces of leather to get rid of. Her loss was definitely my gain!
Make the Claire Fold-over Clutch
To make the bag itself, you will need the pattern and instructions from my shop here. The main modification I made was to use leather on both sides of the exterior, instead of just one. (I would only recommend this ONLY if you have a machine strong enough to handle all of the layers.) But if you are just beginning, try out an all fabric version or one with very thin leather/vinyl.
Since the bag is made of solid color all around, I made sure to add in some accents and interest with metal. I used metal zippers (which I actually installed at the wrong places — I should definitely remember to read my own instructions…but I thought going from memory was good enough. Wrong!) If I was using fabric, I would have swapped out the zippers, but with leather, the needle holes are permanent and I didn’t want to mess with all of that and just moved on! In light of my zipper faux pas, I added a line of rivets along the top zipper (through the lining) to play with the same edgy feel of the cobalt leather. What do you think?
Make the Guitar Strap
For the strap, you will need the pattern pieces below. I drafted the ends for 1 1/2″ or 2″ wide straps. Anything else more narrow won’t give you that guitar-strap, but feel free to widen/narrow the pattern for your own look!
Instructions:
1. Use the templates to cut out pattern pieces based on whether you have 1 1/2″ wide or 2″ wide strap. You will have (2) Strap ends and (2) Reinforcements.
2. With each Strap End wrong-side facing up, center a Reinforcement as shown with wrong sides together. Glue baste in place. It’s tempting to skip this step, but this will help your leather from stretching and distorting with time and wear.
3. With the leather needle installed, stitch 1/16″ around all four sides of the Reinforcement. Repeat with other Strap End.
4. Take Ribbon and center it on one half of the Strap End with wrong sides together, aligning it to the Reinforcement. (You may need to cut off the ribbon’s corners so they don’t hang out of the Strap Ends.) Clip or glue into place. Repeat with other Strap End.
5. Slide one Swivel Clasp onto the Strap End. Repeat with other Strap End.
5. Flip the other side of the Strap End up so it is folded in half with wrong sides together, encasing the clasp. Clip or glue together. Repeat with other Strap End.
6. Use your Zipper Foot to sew a seam to secure the Strap End onto the Swivel Clasp, sewing as close to the clasp as possible. Back-stitch well. Repeat for the other Strap End. TIP: Add washi tape under the foot if you don’t have a Teflon Zipper Foot like me.
7. Switch to a Teflon or Walking Foot and top-stitch each Strap End together with the Ribbon using the stitch guide on the template. Repeat with other Strap End.
8. Finish with rivets, if desired. Congratulations on your new guitar strap!
It doesn’t stop here! I’ve been seeing beautiful striped belt strappings used on designer bags like here on my Pinterest page. I’m already planning out my spring bags with these looks! You can use this same method to easily update any bag for the changing seasons or add new life to a great hand-me-down or thrifted find. The options are really endless. Enjoy and let me know how you like the tutorial!!!
Happy Sewing Friends!
Cristy
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When I sew my own clothes, I like to know they will last for awhile. So when the jumpsuit and romper trend came out, I was very hesitant to make one. I wasn’t sure the one-piece look would be right on me. Oh, and there IS that issue of completely undressing when using the restroom! But alas, after a couple of years seeing so many different versions of a romper, I finally took the plunge with the By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit.
With many of the RTW rompers I’ve seen, they either have a very loose low v-neck wrap (probably for easier bathroom breaks) or the bottoms are way too short for my age bracket. I fell for the Holly Jumpsuit with the nice open scoop neck (while still being modest,) the tailored waist and the 4″ inseam which is long enough for me, but could be a little too short for all of you over 5’3″.
I initially bought the Holly Jumpsuit for the trouser view to help make a traditional Vietnamese Áo Dài. I loved the wide leg, high rise, and the clean waistband which was perfect. However, it’s now been a few years and the Áo Dà has yet to be sewn…I know, I know…it will eventually happen! However, I have made a pair of culottes using some rayon twill seen above. These are such a great summer make.
I know what you’re thinking….The big question with all rompers and jumpsuits is always, “How do you pee?” There is a nice long invisible zipper which extends from the side dart down to the hip. This allows you to slip the romper on and off in combination with unbuttoning the placket. I wish I had a blue zipper to match my Holly when I was making this in time for a party, but I went with the only invisible zipper I had on-hand — black. With the smart placement of the zipper, you can only see the pull when I have my arm up…and it’s still very discreet.
Fabric
When I was looking for fabric, I wanted something light enough to wear during warm weather, but structured enough to hold it’s shape and not wrinkle easily. Since this was my first romper, I also was looking for a simple print that could help camouflage any imperfections.
I was happy to find this great Vintage Chambray Stripes at Imagine Gnats. It’s a classic micro stripe with that railroad-esque feel. I love the blue and how neutral it is for any occasion. I can just switch up accessories to give it a different feel. At 4.5 oz this is still light enough with a soft hand and the 100% cotton content makes it breathable for the summer.
Pattern
For the romper, I used view A and made a size UK10/US12 for both the bodice and bottoms based on my measurements. Since I already made the culottes, I knew I wouldn’t need any adjustments on the bottoms, but I did forget to take into account that I shortened the rise on them previously. So, my romper ended up being too short! *Cue head-slap* Fortunately, I had enough fabric (thanks to the extra wide WOF) left to remake the bottoms. Since there is no fly, it wasn’t too much of a set-back. I’ll turn the first set with the lower rise into shorts by adding on the waistband found in View C. Phew!
These are the additional modifications I made to the Holly:
Added lightweight woven interfacing in the placket to hold the snaps, but I would add it even if I used buttons for more stability
Used metal snaps instead of buttons for faster bathroom breaks 😉
Added slash pockets by drafting a pocket and the facing (the one thing missing with the pattern)
Decreased the seam allowance for the sleeve and increased the armscye to match
Reduced seam allowance to 3/8″ between the bodice and shorts for more crotch room
When I make this again, I would consider the following modifications:
Slight broadback adjustment – There is a little bit of tightness across my shoulder blades.
Bicep adjustment for even more ease – After wearing this to an event (with lots of sweating!) I think adding in more arm ease would allow more air flow and an easier time getting the romper off and on.
Increase the bodice length by 1/2″ – I’m only 5’3″ but if I raise my arms all the way up, I get some cameltoe, which is surprising. Most patterns are drafted for 5’5″-5’8″ that I’ve seen, and usually I have to shorten the bodice on a pattern.
Lower the side darts by ~1/2″ – Everything looked good when I was finished, but after an additional washing, the darts look a little too high.
Final Thoughts:
For my first romper, I am SO pleased with this make. I love the slim fit around the waist and the ample ease around the buttocks and thighs. This is a great pattern for my fellow pear shapes! But it is certainly still great for other body shapes as well with just simple changes to the darts. This fabric was great for the pattern but I may use a woven with just a little stretch next time and probably won’t need those broadback and bicep adjustments.
Now that I’m done with my very first romper, I think I’m ready for another. Do you have any good romper/jumpsuit patterns to recommend? Let me know in the comments. I would love to hear your thoughts!
Happy Sewing,
Cristy
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