Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along! We are now on Part 2: Making the Strap and Key Fob. If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:
For the Sew Along, I have this great Expedition Dry Oilskin Canvas that is 61″ wide. So, I’m happily skipping steps 9-10 to piece the strap together. Again, since this is a treated canvas, I cannot use heat and fuse woven interfacing to it. At 9 oz in weight, it’s okay on it’s own!
[Steps – ] Click into the video above to watch the entire Strap making process. As you watch, please note the following:
Adding nylon webbing is a great way to add strength to a strap, especially if you cannot interface it (like with laminates and waxed canvas.) I show the option in the video, but do not add it to my project due to the thickness of my fabric already.
If you are worried about bulk at the end of your straps, one of my bag testers recommends this technique –>
Use Fray Check to help seal the ends. I like to add the seam sealant, let it dry and then come back to trim it.
If you need additional help setting Rivets manually, go to this post.
MAKE THE KEY FOB
With the Dry Oilskin canvas being so thick, it would create such a big folded knob relative to the 1/2″ Swivel Clasp. So, for this the sew along, I used the lining fabric instead.
[Steps 18-20] Click into the video above for the entire Key Fob making process.
If you need additional help setting Rivets manually, go to this post.
Hope you are doing well with this short Part 2! Drop any questions you may have in the comments! Now I’ll see you next week for the Erin Sew Along Part 3: Making the Back Panel.
Hugs and Stitches,
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. For my full Disclosures, read here.
Welcome to Part 1 of the Erin Sew Along: Cutting, Interfacing and Hardware Prep. If you have missed out on the previous posts, please read them first before proceeding:
If you have done your pre-work, let’s get started! Please remember that this Sew Along is SUPPLEMENTAL to the actual pattern instructions. You will receive extra tips and tricks on the blog, but make sure you read through all pattern steps FIRST!
CUTTING FABRIC
[Step 1] I don’t know about you, but this is probably the most tedious part of the process to me. With more complicated bags comes a lot more parts and pattern pieces.
The Erin Backpack comes with 24 different pattern templates for you to cut out and help keep track of your bag parts with a pin or clip. Make sure to assemble the PDF pattern by lining up the GRAY lines, but cut your templates on the BLACK. The patten templates are laid out to minimize the amount of paper used.
For all of you who love a rotary cutter and ruler (myself included!) there is also Measure and Mark table as part of the instructions.
There is also a flat lay of all the pattern pieces to help you visualize everything that needs to be cut. I like to use the flat-lay to double-check that I have everything needed to get started.
***Please note the only paper template missing is the Strap. (For a large rectangle, it takes up a lot of paper and after taking a survey of bag-makers, they would rather have the measurements than to waste the paper and so I tend to take this course.) However, there IS a square placeholder with the templates you can use to help keep track of the fabric!
If you are looking to match fabric designs, it’s best to line everything at the base of the Main and Lining pieces. The Fronts are slightly shorter than the back pieces to accommodate the zipper width.
For those looking for the hack to add permanent back straps to the Erin, head here for the additional materials. I will be adding them to my bag, but will still reference the original parts of the bag if you still want the convertible back strap options.
INTERFACING
[Step 2] The majority of the fusing will be to the Lining pieces. Because of that, I like to do this first and block fuse as much as I can — This is when you interface the fabric first and then go back to cut out the pieces, reducing time spent cutting. The downside is that you may end up with more fused fabric than what’s needed, but I keep everything to make pouches later on. You will fuse the following with woven interfacing:
Front and Back Lining
Top and Bottom Lining
Front Welt Pocket
Front Elastic Pockets (but only on the half which faces the inside after being folded)*
Pop-put Pocket Main* + Lining
Back Slip Pocket Main* + Lining
Interior Welt Pocket
Interior Slip Pocket
Interior Elastic Pockets
Key Fob
I am using a treated canvas and per manufacturer’s instructions, I cannot iron it and can only finger-press seams into place. With the fabric being so heavy at 9 oz, I’m skipping the woven interfacing on the parts marked with an (*). So if you are using vinyl or a waxed canvas, consider the same changes. If you are looking more a more structured bag and can’t iron the fabric, then consider a sew-in interfacing instead of the the fusible. Additionally, If you want to use the Back Slip Pocket to hold a tablet or small laptop, consider adding foam to the main fabric.
[Step 3] When it comes to basting the Main fabric onto the (non-fusible) foam, I like to use a larger piece of foam, baste, and THEN come back to trim it. If you have never basted before, it is a technique of securing fabric together with thread (either by hand or machine.) I crank my machine up to the longest stitch length (6mm) and will baste the pieces together. You will baste:
Top + Bottom
Back Panel
SKIP the Front Panel for now – The Front Welt Pocket needs to be sewn in BEFORE the foam is basted in.
As you baste every several stitches, smooth the fabric outward so it is nice and taut against the foam.
Once finished basting, you can trim the excess foam away from each piece of the bag and set aside.
[Step 4] Now it’s time to grab the Top + Bottom LINING Pieces. I like to label the firm interfacing to make sure I don’t mix up the pieces since each one will be sewn in differently. The Bottom firm interfacing is attached with regular stitching whereas the Top is basted in — since the stitching will be removed later for a clean finish. *If you are using a laminate for the lining, I would skip the basting (You don’t want to create permanent holes in the top lining when we remove stitching later) and either lightly glue the firm interfacing into place or consider permanently sewing it into place like the bottom.
CUTTING ACCENT FABRIC
You should have the following pattern pieces with the accent fabric:
Zipper Plate
D-Ring Tab
Handle Base
Rectangle Ring Tab
Back Strap Tabs
Accessory Strap
Handle + optional*
Front Strap Tabs
*In the pattern, I cut (2) Handles for more strength. But you are welcome to make a double-fold or even a Rolled Handle like this one, depending on the thickness of your accent fabric.
With all of the Accent Fabric, I like to use a rotary cutter (or craft knife in tighter spots) and ruler as much as possible to create nice straight lines. But it’s hard to get the same precision for curved lines.
With the Zipper Plate, I’ll use any random round object like a metal washer (my preferred device, but of course, I couldn’t find it for this post..) or a thread spool around my house to use as a guide for my craft knife. This allows for a more uniform look at the corners. For the smoothest line, try to cut every curve in one motion and don’t forget to practice first!
Alternatively, if you don’t want to bother with curves and want to make things more simple, you can just cut the zipper plate as a full rectangle and then snip a uniform 45* right triangle off every corner like this Zipper Plate above.
Additionally, for all my zipper plate use, I love the 1/2″ flat blade in this knife kit. It’s the perfect size to cut into the plate and I love the variety of blade for all my crafting needs.
Once you are finished cutting through all the accent fabric, you can optionally seal the edges with your preferred method. The faux leather I used as part of the instructions has a felt backing, so it didn’t require any sealing. However, this cork I’m using for the sew along has a woven fabric backing and I do like to seal. You can do so by using a seam sealant like Fray Check or using Leather Paint like in this post (with video!)
Prep hardware
[Step 5-8] Click into the video above for the hardware prep, including how to sew the rings into place. Use a light uniform amount of glue to encase all the rings per instructions. You want enough to keep the tabs attached, but not so much that it will effect your sewing (needles can stick to the glue and throw off timing.)
Although in Step 7, it mentions to add rivets to the Back Strap Rings, I suggest you wait until the backpack is complete. This will make it easier to sew the tabs in place and you don’t have to worry about avoiding the rivets with your sewing machine.
Phew! That was a good bit of work just to prep the Erin Backpack. If you have any questions, please comment below. Next up, I’ll be post Part 2: Making the Strap and Key Fob, so stay tuned!
Hugs and Stitches,
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my Disclosures for all affiliate info.
I get it! Not everyone wants to continually switch out the Erin Backpack straps for the over-the-shoulder/cross-body style. I also understand that the convertible nature of the backpack strap leads to uneven shifting on the strap as well. So, if you find yourself wanting the Erin Backpack to have permanent double back straps since that’s how you wear it the most, then this hack is for you!!
TUTORIAL
This tutorial assumes you will still make the strap as drafted in the pattern for over your shoulder and/or cross-body needs. All materials needed will be IN ADDITION to the original supply list.
Materials Needed:
(2) 36″ x 6″ cuts of Main Fabric + Woven Interfacing
(2) 1 1/2″ Strap Sliders
(2) 1 1/2″ Swivel Clasps
Lengthen #17 Handle Base to 14 1/2″ x 2″
Material you can omit from original pattern:
#19 Rectangle Ring Accent Fabric
(1) Rectangle Ring
INSTRUCTIONS:
Make straps according to the pattern following Steps #11-12. You will have (2) separate 36″ x 1 1/2″ straps.
Click into video above to add the Slider and a Swivel Clasp to each Strap. Each Strap will have one raw end which will later be sewn into the handle base.
Mark the Handle Base using the original template centered on the back, but omitting the Rectangle Ring markings
With the wrong side of the Handle Base facing up, glue the Handle into place. If you like the look of the Rolled Handle instead of the flat style in the pattern, you can find the tutorial to make it here.
With the wrong side of the straps facing up, glue the raw short edges to the outside of each handle, aligning the raw edges. (Please note, I was playing around with which direction the handle should face, so that’s why it’s different in this pic.)
Now you can flip the base right side facing up and continue at Step #24 of the Erin Backpack pattern. Remember to keep the straps out of the way as you continue construction for the rest of the Erin Backpack.
I hope you enjoy this hack! If you decide to just use the shoulder strap, these double backpack straps can easily be tucked into the back slip pocket!
Since all of my bag and accessory patterns are all digital, I have the luxury of unlimited pages and love the fact I can add more details into my instructions…but I know one photograph is not nearly enough for some of the more complicated steps. I was asked by YOU to provide a sew along and HAD to oblige! So if you already have some questions or comments, please post them below so I can address them during the month!
DETAILS
This sew along will be broken down into 6 parts as listed below and will be posted every Monday and Thursday throughout March, starting March 8th.
For some added fun, I have prizes for participating in this sew along on Instagram. Post any picture of your progress whether it be a fabric pull or the finished product and use the hashtags #loveyousewpatterns, #erinbackpack and #erinbackpacksewalong to be added into the pool of entries. I’ll randomly select a winner for $25 shop credit, a copy of all of my digital bag patterns, and a package of my favorite bag notions at the end of the month. It’s that simple! Don’t forget to tag me @loveyousew_ so I can see your makes along the way!
>> To get you going, you can grab the Erin Backpack pattern for 20% off and Hardware Kits for 15% off in my shop, here, all month long.
If you are ready for a little pre-work, you can checkout the introductory post of the Erin Backpack here and find lots of inspiration in the tester versions here.
Now let’s talk a little more in depth about fabric and supplies you need before we officially start next week!
FABRIC
As you know, the selection of fabric is KEY with any bag. You have to look a little into the future to see how you really want to use your Erin Backpack. Will it be used outdoors, for home, or maybe for the family? The answers will help you decide what fabrics you want to use. Below are the fabric notes (as written in the instructions of the pattern – in blue italics) along with some extra guidance.
This pattern is written for bottom-weight fabrics such as canvas, duck cloth, and denim with weights of ~ 6 oz per square yard or more. — For large bags like the Erin Backpack, you want a heavier and more durable main fabric that can withstand some beating.The last thing you want to do is make a bag with fabric that ends up wearing away before you want to stop using it.For the sew along, I will be using a heavy and durable 9 oz Expedition dry oilskin canvas by Merchant and Mills.I chose this fabric for the weight and color, but also for its water resistant properties which is PERFECT for an everyday backpack.On the flip side of heavy duty fabrics, you also want to be cautious with selecting a fabric that maybe TOO thick for your personal home machine. (I sew with a semi-industrial Juki and am confident it can handle this fabric.) There are points in the construction where you will be dealing with several layers of fabric, interfacing and accent fabric all combined.Always test the layers BEFORE sewing the actual bag.
*As a side note, since I’m using a treated fabric, the manufacturer states I cannot use heat or iron this fabric and will be adjusting interfacing in the first part of the sew-along (which is fine given the weight of the fabric.) So if you are using something like a waxed canvas or a vinyl, you will have to make sure the weight balances out the fact that you will have to omit some interfacing.
The lining is based on quilt cotton and any other fabric with the same weight (~4 oz) can be used such as linen, chambray and twill.— Since the lining does not get nearly as much wear as the main fabric, you can have more fun with a tight woven quilt cotton.This would also be a great place to use a light laminate like these from Cloud 9.If you want the inside to be wipeable, this is a nice laminate that is easy to sew through.I have such a deep stash of fabrics from old projects that I will be using leftovers from a linen blend fabric I used on a dress years ago….But doesn’t it look great with the canvas?!?
The accent fabric is intended to be left with a raw edge, allowing you to use leather, suede, vinyl, cork or another non-fraying substrate. This allows you to add some high-end details to elevate your bag. The Erin Backpack assumes the use of thicker 2-3 mm accent fabric. *If you use a thinner accent substrate like some corks or a lambskin leather, you may want to cut two handles for a sturdier finish. For this bag, I’ll be using some gold flecked cork fabric from Sew Sweetness and will show you how to finish this substrate, as well as how to reinforce some areas.
If you are looking for other sources of faux leather/vinyl Big Z Fabric’s has a nice selection and I’ve used the Terracotta DuroLast vinyl in a Megan Bucket Bag, here. This brand is great for a beginners with a more basic home machine because it’s thinner and MUCH easier to sew through. The pebbled finish makes it look like real leather too! Sew Sweetness also carries thinner faux leather as well…including the black I used for the pattern photography.
INTERFACING
The interfacing mix is based on these suggested fabrics and the foam is crucial to holding the structure, while still being pliable.
Please make sure you are using a non-fusible foam to avoid wrinkles on the main fabric as the bag wears.By Annie’s Soft and Stable is my preferred foam which is denser and thus, provides more structure than Pellon foam.You can grab it in my shop here.But if you can only get Pellon, it works well too.
For woven interfacing, I generally use 60” wide Pellon Shapeflex SF101, but I just tried out Barb’s Bags Interfacing (which is great too…just have to see how it wears before a full endorsement) to block fuse (when you fuse the interfacing to the fabric first and then cut out the pattern pieces…but we’ll get into more of this next week!)It’s allows me to use the entire width of fabric, but you generally can only find 20″ WOF in stores….which IMO is more wasteful.
For the firm stabilizer, Pellon Peltex sew-in interfacing is a great choice. It provides a stronger base for both the lid and bottom of the backpack.
If you would like to use other types of fabrics, please test interfacing with fabric swatches to see what you like before cutting.
HARDWARE
With a full-size backpack of this nature, there is a good bit of hardware involved.This helps the bag look more polished and gives the ability to be be a convertible bag.I’ve sourced some amazing hardware from Emmaline Bags and By Annie’s as part of a full kit you can find here in my shop.
The kit includes:
(4) 1 1/2″ Triangle Rings
(2) 1 1/2″ Swivel Clasps
(1) 1 1/2″ Rectangle Ring
(1) 1 1/2″ Strap Slider
(1) 1/2″ Swivel Clasp
(1) 1/2″ D-Ring
(3) Sets of 12.5 mm Double-Cap Spring Snaps
(5) Sets of Medium Double-Cap Rivets (9mm cap x 8mm post)
(20) Sets of Small Double-Cap Rivets (8mm cap x 6mm post)
Will we be going through some hardware installation? Yes! I know this is a tricky part for many folks and you can refer back to the Intro post for some links to videos I already have.
ZIPPERS
With four zippers in the Erin Backpack pattern using three different sizes, it’s a great idea to use zipper tape to cut exactly what you will need. I used metal zippers for a long time for their polished style, but have fallen in love with these nylon ones that look like metal! You can cut through them with craft scissors (don’t use your special fabric ones!) and sew right through them as well. There is no laborious effects to cut away teeth with these zippers! I love the ones from Emmaline Bags (if you are looking for basic colored tapes) and My Handmade Space for more variety in both tape color and teeth finishes.
Other Supplies
There are plenty of other supplies and notions I reference in the Erin Backpack pattern. For your ease, I’ve added them all onto an “Idea List” below through Amazon. It’s included my favorite glue, fabric punch, hardware setting tools, and also the interfacings mentioned above. I continue to add to all of my list as part of my Storefront all the time as I test out new products in my projects….so don’t forget to “like” it!
I hope this is enough information to get you started on the Erin Backpack. Again, please post any questions and/or comments below. I’ll be sewing along with you so that I can address any concerns along the way!
Happy Sewing!
Cristy
Please note, this post contains affiliate links. Please refer to my Disclosures for additional information.
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***Please note the only paper template missing is the Strap. (For a large rectangle, it takes up a lot of paper and after taking a survey of bag-makers, they would rather have the measurements than to waste the paper and so I tend to take this course.) However, there IS a square placeholder with the templates you can use to help keep track of the fabric!
