Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along! We are now at the FINISH — Part 6: Final Bag Assembly! If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:
It’s now time to put the bag altogether and add all the dimension. To make sewing a little easier, remove the sewing machine table to better maneuver the bag around the free arm. Take time sewing even though the videos are short…most segments have been sped up 4x-6x the normal speed!
ASSEMBLE the exterior
To assemble the exterior part of the bag, click into the video above. Note the following as you watch:
You can always unzip zipper to help ease the bag under the machine
Don’t be afraid to use finger and arm muscles to keep thick layers together. Move up to a larger needle, if needed
Backstitch well over pocket seams
Go back and stitch Y-seam corners, if needed. I have to go back all the time!
With Main bottom, trimmed SA in half instead of notching due to thickness of canvas and foam.
ADD LINING To FINISH BAG
Items to note:
I added the Craft/Wonder tape to the Lining while it was free and unattached to the bag. This makes it a little easier than waiting later as instructed in the pattern
Trim back any foam or fabric that maybe creating bulk, especially at the zipper ends.
When attaching the Lining, fold in the seam allowance to see where placement should be BEFORE gluing.
Again, move slowly for even stitching around the zipper
If you haven’t added the rivets onto the Back Strap Tabs, you can add them on now. (I’ve decided to leave them off of my version.)
CONGRATULATIONS on your new Erin Backpack! Make sure to post your pictures on Instagram using #ErinBackpackSewAlong #ErinBackpack and #LoveYouSewPatterns to win the prize pack! Entries are open until the end of the month!
Thank you to everyone who has joined along for my very first sew along! I’ve learned quite a bit about video editing while trying to provide you the right content to navigate through this pattern. I hope you enjoyed it! Let me know your thoughts in the comments.
Happy Stitching!
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. Please read here for all of my Disclosures.
Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along! We are now on Part 4: Create the Front Panel. If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:
With this part, we are tackling the entire Front Panel with four different pockets. It seems overwhelming, but I’ve broken down all the pockets into 4 different short videos so you can work at your own pace.
WELT Zipper POCKET
At this point, the Front Panel is the only pattern piece left that hasn’t been basted to foam. This is added later because creating the Front Welt Pocket through foam would produce so much bulk and be very difficult to work with. I love all of you too much to put you through the extra wrestling and time spent trimming back foam! Ha!
I know you will ask me about the zipper pulls used on my bag 😉 These zippers are from MyHandmadeSpace and yes, I made the tabs myself! They are approximately 3/8″ x 4″ folded in half and secured with a seam straight up the center. I added a rivet to balance out the look with the rest of my bag. These are SUCH a great option to really personalize your bag. I’m so glad I bought them as a stash option!
Now let’s get to work. Click into the video about to watch how the Welt Zipper Pocket is created. Please note the following from the video:
I am using “Craft” Tape as an alternative to Wonder Tape. This is only 1/8″ wide, but is permanent. With the coating on the canvas, I wanted to use a tape that was a little stronger than Wonder Tape. So, to avoid human error, I like to add this directly to the zipper tape first, and not to the lining.
While adding on the Zipper Plate, I used glue instead of Wonder Tape. Again, I was looking for something stronger I could sew through and unfortunately, Craft Tape cannot be sewn through. (Your needle would gum up.)
I’m adding the rivets earlier than the instructions. I don’t know why….but I started going by memory without checking instructions and went out of order. (This is what I get for not checking!) There is not a huge difference if you add them before closing the pocket lining or waiting until after the foam is basted on. Per the instruction, my intent to add them post foam, was to have extra anchor points against the foam to keep it from separating with the Front Panel. But there are many other points anchoring the foam to the main fabric with the rest of the pockets and Front Strap Tabs.
TIP: When I sew through an accent fabric and want to minimize punctures, I like to pull the threads through for a clean continuous line of stitches. However, from the back, I don’t want the threads just hanging inside. So, I knot the threads and use a light dab of glue to seal them against the fabric. I like to leave the tails long so that they will be sewn into the pocket later on.
SIDE ELASTIC POCKETS
With untreated fabric, interfacing would’ve been fused to the part of the Elastic Side Pocket facing the bag, as seen above on the left. But, since I’m using a heavy treated fabric, I cannot add heat and fuse to it. So you will see there is no interfacing to indicate the wrong side of the fabric in the video below.
Click the video to watch how to make and attach the Elastic Side Pockets. Please note the following:
For extra durability, I demonstrate how to sew the pocket with an extra triangle at the top of the seam. This helps reinforce that area since it will be pulled on heavily.
The size of the rivet used in the triangle has a 6mm cap and is not included in my hardware kit. I thought I would just make it a little different as to not compete with the added embellishment. This is the same size I use on the zipper pulls as well
As an option, you can add in accent fabric with rivets as extra way to highlight pockets. It was an afterthought when making my waxed canvas sample seen here, but I wanted to show you the steps just in case you wanted to add them as well!
POP-OUT POCKET
If I am in a clothing store, I will always take a look at it’s bag section. I like to see what’s popular and if there are any outstanding features. Well, I saw a 3-D pocket similar to this one that I was determined to figure out on my own because I thought it was a unique way to create one. With a home machine, my design had to be changed, but the essence is there. Now, I get to share with all of you how figured out this pocket construction for my bag-makers!
Please click into the video above to view and note the following:
When finishing the edge of the Zipper (that’s sewn directly to the Front Panel,) can just zig-zag along the zipper tabs. But since I primarily work on a straight stitch machine, it would require me to set up a machine. With the content being so heavy this week, I went with the serger that sits right next to my regular machine.
When attaching the Zipper to the Front Panel, I switched feet on the second seam to get a little closer to the teeth and clear the overlock stitching
During the filming, I lost a few segments when attaching the sides down to the Front Panel. I had to re-film those parts, but the Front Panel was already completed. So you will see that there are no hanging bits of fabric as part if the instructions. You might even see some of the Front Strap Tabs.
FRONT STRAP TABS
These Front Strap Tabs are for the cross-body and shoulder carrying options. So all the weight of the bag will be on these spots. That is why there is so much reinforcement stitching, as well as the added rivets. You don’t want these ripping out later, so take your time on every stitch!
Click into the video above to watch hoe to attach the Front Strap Tabs and note the following:
I work with both my Teflon and Zipper Feet. I don’t call out the changes, but you can see them in the video
For a clean finish, I always like to leave long thread tails and pull them to the back. With several knots and a dab of glue, those seams will hold just as well as several back-stitches.
Although a hardware press is a great tool, this is one case when a manual setting tool is better than a press. The dies require at least an 1/8″ clearance around the rivet caps whereas you hardly need any clearance with the tool seen above. There are some projects where there isn’t enough throat space with a press to install as well. So don’t ever get rid of those setting tools!
CONGRATULATIONS on finishing this Part 4 beast! You are more than half-way done now and doing great! Check back next week for Part 5: Making the Lining.
Happy Sewing!
Cristy
Please note, this post contains affiliate links. Please refer to my Disclosures for additional information.
Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along! We are now on Part 3: Create the Back Panel. If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:
I like to press the lining of the Pocket inward so that it doesn’t show when you look at it.
Remember that I’m using a treated canvas, so really, I’m finger pressing all of my seams when I mention “pressing.”
The Snaps I use (and also in my hardware kits are 20 ligne / 12.5 mm Double-cap Spring Snaps. However, you can ALWAYS use any kind of snap on hand. This includes: plastic, magnetic, ring, and even sew-in styles!
The Snap was added using a press, but if you need to add them manually, scroll to bottom of this post for resources.
ADD HANDLE BASE
As mentioned before, I am making my version of the Erin Backpack with the Permanent Back Strap Hack, so the end result looks different from the pattern instructions. However, I STILL (yay!) created video to help you visualize these steps if you are sticking to the pattern as written.
If you are following the pattern, you will watch the video from the beginning to about 3:04. Then you can come back around 3:57 for the hardware installation and watch until the end.
If you are following the Sew-In Back Strap Hack, you will watch the video from about 3:57 through until the end of the video. Feel free to watch all of it though for extra learning points 😉
Click into the video about to watch how the Handle base is made and attached to the Back Panel. The Slip Pocket is then attached and basted together to enclose.
Additional Resources
If you need help with any of the hardware installation. Check out the posts below:
I hope you enjoyed Part 3 of the Erin Backpack Sew Along. Catch me back in just a few days for an intensive Part 4 where we coincidentally, also make 4 pockets for the Front Panel.
Happy Sewing!
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links which help keep this website running . For my full affiliate Disclosure, click here.
Welcome to Part 1 of the Erin Sew Along: Cutting, Interfacing and Hardware Prep. If you have missed out on the previous posts, please read them first before proceeding:
If you have done your pre-work, let’s get started! Please remember that this Sew Along is SUPPLEMENTAL to the actual pattern instructions. You will receive extra tips and tricks on the blog, but make sure you read through all pattern steps FIRST!
CUTTING FABRIC
[Step 1] I don’t know about you, but this is probably the most tedious part of the process to me. With more complicated bags comes a lot more parts and pattern pieces.
The Erin Backpack comes with 24 different pattern templates for you to cut out and help keep track of your bag parts with a pin or clip. Make sure to assemble the PDF pattern by lining up the GRAY lines, but cut your templates on the BLACK. The patten templates are laid out to minimize the amount of paper used.
For all of you who love a rotary cutter and ruler (myself included!) there is also Measure and Mark table as part of the instructions.
There is also a flat lay of all the pattern pieces to help you visualize everything that needs to be cut. I like to use the flat-lay to double-check that I have everything needed to get started.
***Please note the only paper template missing is the Strap. (For a large rectangle, it takes up a lot of paper and after taking a survey of bag-makers, they would rather have the measurements than to waste the paper and so I tend to take this course.) However, there IS a square placeholder with the templates you can use to help keep track of the fabric!
If you are looking to match fabric designs, it’s best to line everything at the base of the Main and Lining pieces. The Fronts are slightly shorter than the back pieces to accommodate the zipper width.
For those looking for the hack to add permanent back straps to the Erin, head here for the additional materials. I will be adding them to my bag, but will still reference the original parts of the bag if you still want the convertible back strap options.
INTERFACING
[Step 2] The majority of the fusing will be to the Lining pieces. Because of that, I like to do this first and block fuse as much as I can — This is when you interface the fabric first and then go back to cut out the pieces, reducing time spent cutting. The downside is that you may end up with more fused fabric than what’s needed, but I keep everything to make pouches later on. You will fuse the following with woven interfacing:
Front and Back Lining
Top and Bottom Lining
Front Welt Pocket
Front Elastic Pockets (but only on the half which faces the inside after being folded)*
Pop-put Pocket Main* + Lining
Back Slip Pocket Main* + Lining
Interior Welt Pocket
Interior Slip Pocket
Interior Elastic Pockets
Key Fob
I am using a treated canvas and per manufacturer’s instructions, I cannot iron it and can only finger-press seams into place. With the fabric being so heavy at 9 oz, I’m skipping the woven interfacing on the parts marked with an (*). So if you are using vinyl or a waxed canvas, consider the same changes. If you are looking more a more structured bag and can’t iron the fabric, then consider a sew-in interfacing instead of the the fusible. Additionally, If you want to use the Back Slip Pocket to hold a tablet or small laptop, consider adding foam to the main fabric.
[Step 3] When it comes to basting the Main fabric onto the (non-fusible) foam, I like to use a larger piece of foam, baste, and THEN come back to trim it. If you have never basted before, it is a technique of securing fabric together with thread (either by hand or machine.) I crank my machine up to the longest stitch length (6mm) and will baste the pieces together. You will baste:
Top + Bottom
Back Panel
SKIP the Front Panel for now – The Front Welt Pocket needs to be sewn in BEFORE the foam is basted in.
As you baste every several stitches, smooth the fabric outward so it is nice and taut against the foam.
Once finished basting, you can trim the excess foam away from each piece of the bag and set aside.
[Step 4] Now it’s time to grab the Top + Bottom LINING Pieces. I like to label the firm interfacing to make sure I don’t mix up the pieces since each one will be sewn in differently. The Bottom firm interfacing is attached with regular stitching whereas the Top is basted in — since the stitching will be removed later for a clean finish. *If you are using a laminate for the lining, I would skip the basting (You don’t want to create permanent holes in the top lining when we remove stitching later) and either lightly glue the firm interfacing into place or consider permanently sewing it into place like the bottom.
CUTTING ACCENT FABRIC
You should have the following pattern pieces with the accent fabric:
Zipper Plate
D-Ring Tab
Handle Base
Rectangle Ring Tab
Back Strap Tabs
Accessory Strap
Handle + optional*
Front Strap Tabs
*In the pattern, I cut (2) Handles for more strength. But you are welcome to make a double-fold or even a Rolled Handle like this one, depending on the thickness of your accent fabric.
With all of the Accent Fabric, I like to use a rotary cutter (or craft knife in tighter spots) and ruler as much as possible to create nice straight lines. But it’s hard to get the same precision for curved lines.
With the Zipper Plate, I’ll use any random round object like a metal washer (my preferred device, but of course, I couldn’t find it for this post..) or a thread spool around my house to use as a guide for my craft knife. This allows for a more uniform look at the corners. For the smoothest line, try to cut every curve in one motion and don’t forget to practice first!
Alternatively, if you don’t want to bother with curves and want to make things more simple, you can just cut the zipper plate as a full rectangle and then snip a uniform 45* right triangle off every corner like this Zipper Plate above.
Additionally, for all my zipper plate use, I love the 1/2″ flat blade in this knife kit. It’s the perfect size to cut into the plate and I love the variety of blade for all my crafting needs.
Once you are finished cutting through all the accent fabric, you can optionally seal the edges with your preferred method. The faux leather I used as part of the instructions has a felt backing, so it didn’t require any sealing. However, this cork I’m using for the sew along has a woven fabric backing and I do like to seal. You can do so by using a seam sealant like Fray Check or using Leather Paint like in this post (with video!)
Prep hardware
[Step 5-8] Click into the video above for the hardware prep, including how to sew the rings into place. Use a light uniform amount of glue to encase all the rings per instructions. You want enough to keep the tabs attached, but not so much that it will effect your sewing (needles can stick to the glue and throw off timing.)
Although in Step 7, it mentions to add rivets to the Back Strap Rings, I suggest you wait until the backpack is complete. This will make it easier to sew the tabs in place and you don’t have to worry about avoiding the rivets with your sewing machine.
Phew! That was a good bit of work just to prep the Erin Backpack. If you have any questions, please comment below. Next up, I’ll be post Part 2: Making the Strap and Key Fob, so stay tuned!
Hugs and Stitches,
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my Disclosures for all affiliate info.
I get it! Not everyone wants to continually switch out the Erin Backpack straps for the over-the-shoulder/cross-body style. I also understand that the convertible nature of the backpack strap leads to uneven shifting on the strap as well. So, if you find yourself wanting the Erin Backpack to have permanent double back straps since that’s how you wear it the most, then this hack is for you!!
TUTORIAL
This tutorial assumes you will still make the strap as drafted in the pattern for over your shoulder and/or cross-body needs. All materials needed will be IN ADDITION to the original supply list.
Materials Needed:
(2) 36″ x 6″ cuts of Main Fabric + Woven Interfacing
(2) 1 1/2″ Strap Sliders
(2) 1 1/2″ Swivel Clasps
Lengthen #17 Handle Base to 14 1/2″ x 2″
Material you can omit from original pattern:
#19 Rectangle Ring Accent Fabric
(1) Rectangle Ring
INSTRUCTIONS:
Make straps according to the pattern following Steps #11-12. You will have (2) separate 36″ x 1 1/2″ straps.
Click into video above to add the Slider and a Swivel Clasp to each Strap. Each Strap will have one raw end which will later be sewn into the handle base.
Mark the Handle Base using the original template centered on the back, but omitting the Rectangle Ring markings
With the wrong side of the Handle Base facing up, glue the Handle into place. If you like the look of the Rolled Handle instead of the flat style in the pattern, you can find the tutorial to make it here.
With the wrong side of the straps facing up, glue the raw short edges to the outside of each handle, aligning the raw edges. (Please note, I was playing around with which direction the handle should face, so that’s why it’s different in this pic.)
Now you can flip the base right side facing up and continue at Step #24 of the Erin Backpack pattern. Remember to keep the straps out of the way as you continue construction for the rest of the Erin Backpack.
I hope you enjoy this hack! If you decide to just use the shoulder strap, these double backpack straps can easily be tucked into the back slip pocket!
Happy Sewing,
Cristy
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***Please note the only paper template missing is the Strap. (For a large rectangle, it takes up a lot of paper and after taking a survey of bag-makers, they would rather have the measurements than to waste the paper and so I tend to take this course.) However, there IS a square placeholder with the templates you can use to help keep track of the fabric!
