Rumi Tank Review

I’m a huge fan of racerback tops. I don’t know if I just have weird sloping shoulders or maybe the wrong bras, but any kind of spaghetti strap I wear, always falls down.  Over the years, its become pretty annoying having to constantly pull the straps back up.  I started to wear mainly racerback bras to combat my issue and then had to find new tank tops that would cover the new strap configuration.

So when Christine Haynes came out with the Rumi Tank pattern, I knew instantly, it was for me.  It’s designed for knits, has a classic versatile shape and is stash friendly. I can get a tank out of less than a yard and have made two tanks that out of pure scraps.  This pattern is a PDF with printing options for a personal printer and copy shop.  I decided to send this pattern to my local big box office supply store (because I had a coupon) for the first time.  Let me say, if given the option, I will always choose copy shop printing.  Taping PDF patterns is just not what I want to spend my time doing.

My first project was just the tank version and I used the Limestone Feel knit by Leah Duncan . I’m between a 6 and an 8 and also a B cup. From the waist up, I cut a 6 and then graded out to the 8 around the hip (to account for my larger rear) and used a 10 in length.

With a serger, the construction of the Rumi Tank was very quick.  However, I made sure to take the time to evenly distribute and pin the neck and armbands for a nice smooth finish. Although not necessary, I do top-stitch (with a ball-point needle!) around the neck and armholes for a professional look and to keep the seam allowance in place.

TIP: I like my garments to even be pretty on a hanger. So, I start and stop all my serging at inconspicuous spots…usually off to one side.

For my second Rumi project, I made the dress version. My family had spring break plans down on Florida and I could use a casual dress to throw over a bathing suit, if needed. April Rhodes’ Observer knit was perfect! I wore it to the beach and back.

Bonus – This dress can be worn with a jacket and layered over leggings.

I’ve made two more Rumi tanks to fill in my summer wardrobe. One with a navy and cream skinny stripe I got from a destash and then another in the same Observer knit because I love the print and color so much 🙂 The ease and comfortability with these makes are awesome. I’ve been wearing them with jeans and skirts all summer long.

As we near the autumn and winter months, I plan on sewing a few more tanks and dresses. These will make nice layering pieces under my cocoon cardigans and with some fun tights.  All in all, I think this is a great beginner knit pattern. It’s also perfect if you are working on a handmade capsule. The silhouette is classic and you don’t have to deal with pesky falling straps!

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 


This post may contain affiliate links.

Heritage and Arizona After Fabrics :: Portside Duffle

April Rhodes has done it again.  She has just dropped not one, but TWO new fabric collections with Art Gallery Fabrics.  Arizona After is a gorgeous extension of April’s inaugural Arizona line with some new prints and some recolored with soft dusty pink and blues along with some deep rust and mustard.  The color combos she puts together are always so striking.  Heritage fabrics consists of garment focused substrates…including the new RAYON.  With April’s clothing patterns, she has always been a designer who knows scale for the quilters and the garment sewist alike.  It’s the perfect collection for the me-made makers!

Beyond the fabrics, April’s inspiration for the collections is just so touching.  The way she talks about her family and memories of her father and grandmother is just pure love.  Truly awesome. I love how a lot of the designs were just a part of April’s everyday life and over time, have been permanently imprinted in her head.  To bring these images to life brings so much light to her eyes and it’s been amazing to witness it all. These fabrics are just gorgeous and I’m happy she’s shared them with all of us….because whoa, right?!?

When I was asked to make a bag for April’s Spring Quilt Market Booth, I (of course) agreed.  She has become a dear friend and I will always help her, as she has helped me in so many ways.  April asked me to make a larger duffle and suggested a quilt-as-you-go method for easy patchwork because with Market…comes some tight deadlines.  I got to immediate work, but quickly realized I had to Turn. It. Up.

All 14 quilt cottons in the Arizona After collection was used to make the Portside Duffle Bag by Grainline Studios.  It’s the perfect bag to showcase these fabrics with all that surface area.  I loved playing with all the color combos while mixing and even deconstructing, some of the prints.

Once I started to quilt with my walking-foot on the Soft and Stable, that texture just got me.  I knew I had to add more and more quilting…and change up the designs with each print. Then it dawned on me….ooooh, metallic thread would be A-mazing with this palette.  The gold really brings out the colors and I’m so happy with how it turned out. TIP: Cut a larger piece of soft and stable than the pattern requires. Quilt and then cut to size. Don’t forget to baste those edges!

Art Gallery’s textured denim in Canyon Sunset was the perfect complement to Arizona After and is a nice durable fabric for the bottom accent of the duffle bag.  On the inside, I used the Scattered Wood print and added an additional zip pocket…because we can always use some extra pockets.  I love the look of brass zippers and with the gold thread, this combo obviously had to happen.

For more texture and to turn this bag up another notch, I used hardware from ARmercantile combined with some leather from my sacred stash.  Guitar-inspired bag straps are popping up all-over the place and I just had to add that look to this duffle.  The added rivets bring out more of the brass and help round out the look.  Who says a quilted bag can’t be modern and on-trend?  I love being able to combine my love of quilting with my love of bag-making….and the gorgeous fabric definitely helps.  Thank you Arizona After for the inspo!

Make sure to check back on April’s blog and Instagram all throughout July for the up-to-date info on the Blog Tour.  Next up will be an Instagram loop on July 5th and I heard there maybe prizes involved 😉

Last, but not least, don’t forget to tag #heritagefabrics and #arizonaafterfabrics with all of your makes.  I can’t wait to see all of them!

Project Summary:

 

Fabric and pattern for the Arizona After + Heritage Blog Tour was provided.  There are affiliate links in the Project Summary.

 

Quilted Envelope Clutch :: Free Tutorial

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Envelope Clutches are everywhere right now and I was inspired by it simple and timeless shape.  This Quilted Envelope Clutch design is over-sized to give you ample room for all of your essentials, but still is nice  enough to go from day to night.  It’s a sleek bag when paired with the right faux (or real) leather.  Coincidentally, this clutch design also fits a MacBook Pro perfectly, so its versatile and you can change up the fabrics to make it as laptop holders.

As I wrote in last week’s post from the Observer blog tour here, I like to show how hip and modern quilting can be.  I love how the piecing of a half log-cabin accentuates the envelope shape and the monotone palette keeps it chic.  Simple quilting adds enough texture and detail without being over-the-top…or over-worked.

This tutorial is for the faux leather version and finishes at approximately 14 3/4″ x 10 1/2″.  As with all patterns, don’t jump the gun…please ready through the instructions in their entirety.  Shoot me an email and/or leave me a comment if you have any questions.  Enjoy!

Materials Required:

  • Faux leather/ Vegan leather / Vinyl (1/2 yd)
  • Lining & Pocket Fabric (1 yd)
  • Pieced Panel scraps (1/4 yd)
  • Pieced Panel Lining Fabric (1/4 yd)
  • Woven Fusible Interfacing [Pellon SF101] (2 1/2 yds)
  • Ultra-firm Sew-In Interfacing [Pellon 70 Peltex] (1 yd)
  • 9″ Zipper
  • Magnetic Snap
  • Coordinating Thread(s)
  • Poster Board (optional for cutting pattern templates)
  • Spray Baste or Fabric Glue Pen (optional)
  • Clover Clips

 Cutting Instructions: 

  1. Create the body and center panel cutting templates following the black numbers.  Make markings for the numbers and lines in purple.
    • Cut the angles by finding the mid-point of the short-sides of each template.  cutting-template
    • Round out each of the “envelope points” using a large spool of threadimg_7001
  2. Use your larger template to cut:
    • (1) Body with faux leather
    • (1) Lining
    • (2) Woven Fusible Interfacingsp1060660
  3. With the Firm Sew-In Interfacing, cut:
    • (2) 14 3/4″ x 9 3/4″ rectangles
    • (1) Triangle per the following photo:img_7014a
  4. For pieced Center Panel (as a half log-cabin), cut:
    • (1) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square
    • (34) 5″ x 1 1/2″ strips
    • Use smaller template to cut (1) Center Panel liningp1060674
  5. For Lining Pockets, cut:
    • (1) 16″ x 11″ rectangle with the lining fabric
    • (1) 16″ x 11″ rectangle with fusible woven interfacing
    • (1) 9″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle with faux leather

Construction:

(1/4″ seam allowance unless otherwise noted)

  1. Interface the body.  *Please check and test the heat settings beforehand.  Not all vinyl/faux leather is created equal.

    • Place the Peltex pieces per the following photo.  Leave 3/8″ allowance all around the edge of the vinyl.  Keep 3/4″ in between the (2) 14 3/4″ x 9 3/4″ pieces.  Make sure you align the Peltex triangle long edge with the top corners of the vinyl.  You can can secure them in place with a little spray baste or with Sewline glue pen.  *It’s important to have the Peltex split into 3 pieces to give the ease and flexibility where the clutch will fold.  It will also alleviate some of the “cracking” appearance that can happen with interfacings that are forced to moved a lot.p1060663
    • Use one of the fusible woven interfacing pieces and fuse on top of the firm sew-in interfacing.  You may need to work the edges of the SF101 around the Peltex with your iron. Set aside.interface-vinyl
  2. Fuse the 2nd piece of fusible woven interfacing to your lining.  Set aside
  3. Fuse the pocket fusible woven interfacing to the pocket lining fabric.  Set aside
  4. Prepare Center Panelp1060670
    • Piece as desired.  I used a traditional half log-cabin design, but you can use anything that you like as long as it can be trimmed to the Center Panel template you created earlier.
      • Line up the short-end of the first strip (gray-blue speck) with the edge of the square (eagle) and sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.  Press open
      • Line up the short end of another strip (navy dashes) with the opposite edge of the square (eagle) and sew.  Alternate sides until you have used all 34 strips.
      • Use Center Panel template and trim to fit.
    • Assemble the Center Panel by placing the right-sides of the center piecing with the center panel lining.p1060675
    • Sew all around leaving an opening at the TOP to turn.p1060676
    • Notch out the BOTTOM and all cornersp1060678
    • Pull right-side out and press
  5. Line up the center panel on top of the right-side of the faux leather.  Make sure it’s even on both sides of the panel.  You can secure it into place using pins since you don’t see the faux leather.p1060680
  6. Topstitch into place.  It may seem easier to have sewn this panel onto the vinyl before all of the interfacing, but this is how you will secure all of the Peltex into place and prevent any shifting with use.p1060683TIPS:
    • Use upholstery thread or any other nylon/polyester thread.  I like the upholstery for the heavier weight, the sheen, and it glides well through all of the layers.
    • Increase your stitch-length to at least 3.0 for a nice look
    • Use a walking foot for even stitches
    • You may need to increase your needle size if the thread is not pulling through and/or you are getting skipped stitches
    • Keep matching all-purpose polyester thread in the bobbin.  It helps with skipped stitches.
  7. At this point, you can quilt the vinyl, if desired.  Set the body aside.IMG_6780 IMG_6880
    • TIP:  Use washi tape for your guidelines. Chalk and pen will easily smear off the faux leather.IMG_6772
  8. Attach pockets onto lining
    • With the flat edge of the lining on top and right side facing you, measure 3″ down from the straight edge and 3 1/4″ in on either side.  Pin (where you will sew) the faux leather into place 1/8″ from the edges (marked in yellow.)  You can leave this as a large slip pocket or you can divide it for your cell phone.  I marked mine 3 1/2″ in from the edge to hold an iPhone 6. Sew the three edges into place and then the dividing seam (marked by yellow.)img_7026
  9. Turn the lining 180 degrees.  With the right-side facing you, mark 10 1/2″ down from the top of the lining and pin the short-side of the  pocket lining fabric there.  Mark a rectangle 1″ down from the top and sides of the pocket that is 9″ x 3/8″ (blue pen.)  p1060690
  10. Sew all-around the 9″ x 3/8″ rectangle on the marks you made.  Cut through the rectangle as shown, stopping about 1/4″ from the end (red pen lines.) [Image a]. Make small cuts from the middle out to each corner, getting close to the stitches, but not cutting directly through.  Push pocket through the hole [images b & c] and press [image d].lining-pocket-collage
  11. With the right side of the lining facing you, line up the zipper in the opening just created.  Either pin in place or use Sewline glue pen.  Sew 1/8″ all around the opening.img_7024
  12. With the wrong-side of the lining facing you, fold up the pocket so the short-sides match.  Press on the fold.  Pin all around the pocket, but not including the lining. Sew pocket shut (following blue dashed lines in pictures.)  Make sure you move the lining out-of-the-way as you sew.img_7025

Assembly:

  1. Now match the right-sides of the lining and body together.  Clip in place and sew all around the edge (marked in blue) with a 3/8″ seam allowance.  Back-stitch when you start and end leaving a 5″ opening to turn. Notch out corners and the top of the clutch.  Be very careful not to cut through any stitches.img_7032
    • TIP:  Use a compensating foot or a zipper foot since the Peltex give you can uneven surface. img_7034
  2. With wrong sides together, make markings for your magnetic snap and install per manufacturer’s instructions.  With the point being so narrow at the top of the clutch, you may need to move your snap up or down to make sure there is enough clearance for all parts of the clasp.  For the male part, I marked mine 1 1/4″ down from the top edge of the lining and marked the female where it hit the body (approx. 7″ from straight short side.)
    • TIP: Before you install, reinforce where you will cut with a scrap piece of interfacing.p1060602
  3. Turn the body right-side out and press with the lining facing up.  Be careful not to press the faux leather directly with your iron.
    • TIP:  Use Clover Clips on the edges to help them stay flat and/or hammer them as well.  Hammering helps to flatten the edges so top-stitching will be easier in the next step.  Test the hammer method on scrap to make sure the hammer doesn’t leave marks.
  4. img_7036Time to {finally} make the envelope!
    • Top-stitch along the straight short-end of the body (red dashed line)
    • Fold the front of the clutch up 10″ to create the main pocket and secure the sides into place with Clover Clips
    • Top-stitch all along the clutch (following the yellow dashed line)
      • TIPS:
        • Use a large 16 or 18 needle to get through all the layers
        • Increase stitch-length to 3.5-4.0 and use your walking foot to achieve even stitches
        • GO SLOW so that you do not skip stitches
        • Hammer the edges again, if needed
        • Leave long thread tails so you can pull them through the lining and hide for a cleaner finish
    • Hide thread tails by pulling them toward the lining, knot, then bury.
    • Press the lining

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If you want to get extra fancy, you can add some additional finishes.  Some examples are:

  • Sew a wristlet handle with hardware (as shown)
  • Just add the D-ring so you can attach some fun tassels.
  • Include a key fob on the inside
  • Attach rivets and grommets

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CONGRATS!!!  You have made a #LYSquiltedenvelopeclutch!  Please, please share your creations.  I would love to see them all!

As long as you credit Love You Sew with the pattern (because it took me a long time to write this all up,) you are free to sell the finished clutch.

Product Details (Sources in Links):

 Observer Fabric Tour >> Quilted Envelope Clutches

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It’s here!  It’s here!  The Observer collection by April Rhodes for Art Gallery Fabrics has finally made it way to shops and I’m so happy to show you my projects on the #OBSERVERfabrictour.  In true fashion, April does not disappoint.  These designs come from her own eyes and what she has seen both physically and mentally.  My favorite print is Aerial View…mainly because it was inspired by Columbus, OH (where we both live) and just shows how little we are in such a big world…

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I was very fortunate to play with the early strike-offs for this line, and you can view my other projects in this previous post.

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I’m kicking the tour off with these fabulous oversized Envelope Clutches.  Ever since I had swatches of these fabrics in my studio, I was trying to think of what I wanted to make as a personal project.  These curry and sulfur colors mixed with sand and copper play SO well with the indigos, grey-blues and navy.  I fell head-over-heels with this palette and have plans for a dress in Overshot Gold.  With that in mind, I thought a trendy Envelope Clutch would be perfect in the Shard colorway.

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As a modern quilter, I continually try to show the rest of the world that patchwork and sewing are still “cool.”  Sound familiar, friends???  I thought combining the sophistication of (faux) leather with a simple block would be the perfect marriage of current Boho-Gypsy love and traditional quilting.

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This was initially going to be a one-off creation just for myself, but the sneak peeks on Instagram created such positive feedback, that I knew I HAD to write a pattern for all of you. EDIT:  Tutorial can now be found HERE. 

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Working with the envelope design, I used a simple half log-cabin pattern to work with the flap’s 90 degree angle.  I used a 2.5″ fussy-cut square from the Homespun Praxis and used various 5″ (or longer) x 1.5″ strips to make a 28″ panel.  The panel was then trimmed to 5.5″ wide.

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The pieced panel was then sewn onto a coordinating AGF Solid Smooth Denim with right sides together. They were turned out and pressed.  The results are clean even edges which are then top-stitched down onto the (faux) leather.  I used Gütermann upholstery thread which provides a nice raised look and slides well through the leather.  Washi tape was used as the quilting guidelines since pen and chalk can smear.  I followed the lines of the piecing  to create additional texture and add more design detail onto the clutch.

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This Envelope Clutch, although oversized to carry a lot of stuff, still needs the basic features of any bag.  The lining is made out of Treadle Tradition with a generous sized pocket using a 9″ metal zipper from Zip It Zippers.  Metal zippers add that extra professional look I just love.

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On the opposite side of the lining, I added simple slip pockets.  These are unlined, using leftover leather so there is no fraying.  They were sewn down with unfinished edges.  I just made sure one pocket was the proper size for my cell-phone…priorities, right? 😉

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Metal snaps were added and now I’m ready to hit the town with my chic boho clutch!

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Sewing through faux leather can be a challenge on many domestic machines.  So I wanted to come up with a similar style Envelope Clutch which is MUCH easier to sew.  This design is shown in Speck Stardust and utilizes some fusible fleece with just a single panel of raw-edge faux leather.  I love how this print color reminds me of a perfectly worn pair of jeans and the leather match my favorite fall booties.

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I wasn’t able to find upholstery thread to match this vinyl, so I used Gütermann Sew-All polyester.  This slides through the faux leather really well and still provides a great look and quilting texture.  I changed up this quilting design to make some fun cross-hatching.  ‘Slow and steady with the walking foot kept the lines straight and even.

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With this version, I added a wrist strap using hardware from Emmaline Bags and scraps of both the (faux) leather and Speck Stardust.  Using half fabric and half leather is easier to work with rather than trying to sew through multiple layers of leather.

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The D-ring was added to the front of the clutch rather than sewn into the side.  This provides the option to be hidden.  It also doubles as a spot to hook your keys.  The lining was made from Indigo Shadow Solid Smooth denim and I created the same zipper pocket one side and two slip pockets on the other.

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Ironically, this design also fits my laptop.  So with the fusible fleece, this Envelope Clutch can be used as a laptop cover.  The pockets are great for cords and small headphones.

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I know I’ll be rocking this clutch out on the town with the girls though….

What’s on your project list with Observer?

 

Make sure to stop by April’s blog to get the up-to-date schedule with 6 weeks full of dreamy inspiration.  The line-up of bloggers is quite impressive 😉  If you need even more ideas, head to Art Gallery Fabric’s Observer Lookbook….you might even recognize someone’s name in there 😉

#ObserverFabrics #ObserverFabricTour #ArtGalleryFabrics #WeAreFabrics

 

Sew On,

Cristy

Observer Fabrics Preview

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Have you ever seen something out in the wild, and wondered how pretty it would be to freeze that shot and frame it forever?  It’s that moment that is just SO good, you take in that extra long gaze and lose yourself a little…  Well when you’re April Rhodes, you take that extra step into permanence and create Observer fabrics.  It’s a collection of patterns seen out in the world…through the eyes of Miss April, herself.

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It is such an honor to sew with an unreleased collection.  The initial reveal is always exciting, but I love to hear about the inspiration.  That’s why it’s so wonderful to work with April…as we collaborate together, I get to hear the story behind every pattern and every color.  With all of that information, it then allows me to dig a bit deeper in my design wheel well.

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I was immediately inspired by the Homespun print.  It is based off of April’s love of weaving and fiber arts.  The 24″ x 24″ (finished) quilt is paper-pieced  to make every angle and line as sharp as can be. It utilizes mainly 1.5″ strips, making it very scrap friendly.

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With Observer, the prints are either monochromatic or duotone and this quilt was designed to really show off the contrast by using the colorways, exclusively, in each quadrant.

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As you get closer to the fabrics, you can see the little hints of metallic (yaaas!)  With this collection, April incorporated silver which looks amazing against the deep blues.  It’s always hard to photograph metallic, but you can see it in Triangle Tokens and on the Speck Stardust.

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The background is Art Gallery Fabric’s Premium Linen Blend in Soft Sand.  It is such a great texture and color to make the design and colors pop.

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With so much negative space in the piecing, a random application of matchstick quilting was in order using Aurifil 2310. The areas were split into quadrants, like the quilt design, itself.

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The backing was pulled from April’s Wanderer collection.  Wandering Lands Mineral was the perfect print which really complimented all the tones in Observer and it shows off the quilting beautifully.

Stay tuned…this quilt pattern will be available closer to Observer‘s release in August!!!

 

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April asked if I would help make some baby leggings as well and how could I not?!?  Ya’ll know babies are my business and LOVE the opportunity to make itty bitty gear.  These leggings are made with Overshot Gold in knit and they are so amazingly soft.  The pattern for the pants are from My Childhood Treasures.

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I drafted a pattern for the hat from an old one I have.  Make it Love it has a great tutorial and pattern which is similar.

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As an added detail, I used the selvage from a woven print on the back of the leggings.  It’s a great way to make a little tag so you know the direction of your hand-made garments.

Aren’t these clothes just perfect for the little bohemian in your life?

 

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Last, but surely not least, is my mini quilt hoop (measuring about 2.5″ lengthwise.)  Making these quilt hoops has become one of my favorite projects and I cannot help myself when I have such amazing fabric laying around.  I love tiny (who doesn’t?) and love being able to use up every little scrap.

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Of course, I used Dandelyne hoops and chose an oval to make a piece based of the main quilt I designed at the top of the post.  A little gold embroidery thread made this hoop extra special and I love how it turned out.


I hope you enjoyed my little preview of Observer which is due out in August.  Make sure to check out the full collection here.

Do you have any plans for these fabrics?  Please let me know!  I have a few already planned….maybe an envelope clutch, dresses for my nieces, shirts for my boys, and dresses for myself….I could go on and on!

 

Happy Stitching, Friends!

Cristy