Like everyone and their mama, I scooped up the Persephone Pants pattern by Anna Allen Clothing last summer. I made these shorts last summer as well…and even took the pictures…but this post was left on the back burner while I had other blog deadlines to fulfill. While pulling clothes for our spring break trip, I was reminded inspired to finally finish this review — especially for all of you who are heading into shorts season as well!

The inspiration behind this pattern were the wide-legged, high-waisted sailor pants from the 20-40s. The Persephone drafting is unique in that there are no side seams which made fitting a little different, but still doable with a muslin. These shorts are my wearable muslin since I could work on the fit around the waist and hips, but save all the fabric from the legs.

These pants feature a hidden button fly, but Anna released the zip fly expansion pack after I made these. When I make the full pants, I would like to use a zipper to make getting them off and on more easily. Also, I’ve been getting creasing at every space between the buttons, so I think a zipper will help smooth that out.

With the hidden button fly, I figured I could also get a bit crazy with the buttons. I’m still working through my MIL’s old stash and couldn’t find five matching colors in the same size. But I did find five with the same size and just alternated the colors.

Even though these Persephones were a muslin, I still wanted them to be fun…and you know I love surprise garment guts! With this great Olive Cone Mills denim, I reached into my quilt cotton stash and found this print by Sarah Watts. The colors go so well with the denim and who doesn’t love some lions?

I used the quilt cotton on the fly facing as well as with both in seam pockets. You can see I fussy cut the pockets and love how they turned out. However, these are pretty small pockets and can only hold a small set of keys or some chapstick. I’ll still keep them in my next pair, but will add some back pockets for more storage.

With almost all pants, I know my measurements run between two, if not three sizes. I cut a size 8 in these Persephone shorts and graded the hips out to a 10. I left the rise as it was drafted, but at 5’3″, the top of the waistband sits about 1 1/2″ above my belly button. Although, I love the super high-rise look, the pants push a bit too high when I sit. Next time, I will reduce the rise by ~1″.

My fit issues are always around my booty. There was lots of back and forth with baste fitting going on, but I was able to work out the following:

• Increased each dart on the fold by 1/4″ (1/2″ total) which was 1″ taken out of the waist overall.
• Low buttocks adjustment – Extended each dart by 1 3/8″ to where the curve is extended out the most. I had to do this after seeing the dart poke out rather than sit smoothly on my backside.
• Took an additional 1/4″ out of the center back (1/2″ overall)
• Scooped out the seat by 1/4″ to reduce wrinkling around the back thighs. But since I already cut the fabric, I couldn’t compensate and add 1/2″ to the crotch length. You can see there is a slight “wedgie” effect since I didn’t lengthen the seat. But after a year’s worth of wear, this non-stretch denim has really molded to my shape. The fabric has actually relaxed more in the seat and I’m not seeing (or feeling) that wedgie anymore! Not all fabric is as forgiving, so I’ll definitely make sure I add in the extra fabric with my next make.

Overall, I LOVE the fit of these Persephone shorts. I have always had a hard time finding RTW shorts with room for my thicker thighs…especially when seated. The wide cut gives me so much ease around my thighs while the high-waist provides such beautiful shaping.

I have a whole winter’s worth of bottom weight scraps and can’t wait to make a few more pairs of these shorts for the summer ahead! Are these in your summer sewing queue?

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

Project Summary:

• Pattern: Persephone Pants by Anna Allen Clothing; Shorts View
• Fabric: Olive Cone Mills Denim from Imagine Gnats
• Lining: From the August fabric collection by Sarah Watts for Cotton + Steel
• Thread: Gutermann Denim for Top-stitching and Gutermann all-purpose poly for piecing and tacking the carriers.
• Machines: Juki TL-2010Q, Singer Quantum Stylist (for buttonholes), and Juki MO-2000QVP

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