My quest to add more handmade clothing to my closet continues!  Check out my previous Make Nine post with all of my 2018 garment goals here.   I’m so happy to be checking off one of the patterns off my list…and it’s still only February!  The Chi-town Chinos are complete and it certainly wouldn’t be possible without the resources and products from Indiesew.

My handmade wardrobe is still in need of basics which include “non-elastic waist” pants.  Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE an elastic waist, but sometimes you just need a clean and classic pair of trousers.  The Chi-town Chinos are just that with their timeless design and versatility.  This pattern can also be made into a skirt or shorts, and has a number of different pocket options.  For the pants, I needed both the original pattern plus expansion pack #2, which you can find all at Indiesew. If I’m buying a pattern, I like it to go the distance and I appreciate all the options.

Trousers have been lower on my garment list for awhile.  There is so much more fitting required…especially since I have wider hips and heavier thighs than my waist aka booty issues.  I’ve always been plagued with RTW fit issues, but I’m always up for a challenge.  After making so many tops and skirts, I knew this would have to be next.  Luckily, there is an amazing maker gallery on Indiesew’s website.  Searching hashtags on social media is great for some photos, but I love the in-depth reviews and blog links in the “Creations” section.  It’s SO nice to see the Chi-town Chinos on so many different bodies and read about the adjustments (if any) that each person has made.  There is also a blog post about denim Chi-town Chinos on the website, which you can find here.  With all of these resources,  I felt much more confident about my decision to make the pattern.

I had the pattern selected, but what about the fabric?  Again, the booty issues!  I was thinking I would have to make a possible looser pant with a standard twill, but then Indiesew had just enough of this amazing stretch (!!!) Cotton Sateen Hearth left for the Chinos and I knew I had to grab it.  The 11 oz weight was just what I needed to keep this silhouette looking smooth and structured.  The 20% stretch was going to make fit a bit easier and I know this fabric would be able to keep up with my momming lifestyle (which is chasing…er keeping up with two crazy young boys.)

The cotton sateen was a pretty “safe” neutral, so I wanted to have more fun with the pocket bags and fly shield.  I dug out this great fabric from April Rhodes out of my stash and it definitely adds  some great pops of color….there is even some metallic!  Isn’t this the best part of making your own clothes?!?

While I was picking out the pocket fabric, I figured I could also have even more fun with my serging.  I used a 4-thread overlock stitch with the stretch cotton sateen and used the contrasting orange in the upper looper.  TIP:  Using the contrast thread in only the upper looper can save on thread.  If you are like me, and only have a handful of serger thread colors, you will only need to purchase the one color.  I used cream in all the other spools and you don’t really see those colors as much.

I debated between a hook and eye or button fly closure.  But it came down to seeing what was available in my notions box…and the button won.  All the buttons are from my MIL’s vintage collection and I always try to use her old stash as much as possible.  I’ve never had to buy a button since I’ve started sewing garments!  She always had something good 🙂

I love how Alina Design & Co designed this pattern with two back darts over the pockets.  Her instructions come with how to make a muslin (don’t skip this step!) which I absolutely loved…not having to actually make the muslin, but in that she told you what pieces you needed.  It relieved me of playing the guessing game trying to figure out the pattern.  The muslin is how I knew I needed a 2 inch waist adjustment.  I sized to fit my hips and then split the adjustment between the two darts.  So one inch came out out both sides.  This made the fit absolutely perfect!

For the back pockets, I opted for the welt design…which was probably the most difficult choice.  This was not the best move on my behalf, but I made it through…  The difficulty came when trying to transfer the pattern lines on a curved 3-D back.  Of course, after I struggled through this, Allie Olsen (the founder of Indiesew) showed how she places pockets on a pressing ham to replicate the shaping.  I wish I’d seen that about a week before it was in her Instagram stories!

The other major adjustment I made was to hem these to a cigarette pant length (which is right above the ankle.)  I’m only 5’3″ and already made a 2″ length adjustment during muslin time.  But I was torn between a full length (which I could wear in all seasons) or the cigarette length because I do tend to fold up my pants…especially since fashion has really loved the ankle for the past few years.  Luckily, all of my Instagram followers who took my poll, decided the cigarette length was right.  (Thank you!)  I am so pleased with how it came out and how the length makes these pants look so clean.

These Chi-town Chinos came out even better than expected.  (The full two weeks I spent on mostly-careful construction paid off!)  The cotton sateen fabric makes them look so stylish and the elastane blend keeps them from wrinkling (Big bonus!!!)  The heavier weight keeps the silhouette lines so well.  I love how this is such a great wardrobe staple and works with so many items in my closet already.  Look how it pairs with a simple striped tee and vintage denim jacket!  This would be great with just a pair of casual sneakers or sandals too.  It would make for a great everyday outfit.

You can take the edge up a notch with some black stilettos and a great faux leather moto jacket.  This is perfect for a night out on the town with the girls or maybe date night instead 😉

You can also go the dapper route with some wing-tips and a great crisp white button-down shirt.  I’ve always been drawn to menswear styling since my old corporate days, but I love the feminine touch with the pussybow.  You can make your own with the same Rifle Paper Co Floral rayon challis. This outfit would be a great look for business meetings or an extra dirty martini.

These chinos are just so versatile that just a change of shoes can completely change the look.  I swapped out the stilettos for some Swedish open-toe clogs and now its completely relaxed.  This is great for a coffee-date or brunch with friends.

I hope you enjoy my review of the Chi-town Chino pattern with the personal touches I added, as well as all the styling options.  You better believe I will be adding this make (and others) to Indiesew’s Creations.  I want to help others as that feature had definitely helped me!  Have you checked out that section of the website yet?

Stay Creative, Friends!

Cristy

The Chi-Town Chinos pattern and Cotton Sateen Fabric were both discounted by Indiesew for this blog post.  But as always, the make is my conception and all thoughts and opinions are my own.