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Full Zip Hack with the Grace Rashie Pattern

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When I first hacked the Grace Rashie by Swim Style Patterns two years ago, I never documented the process…Big mistake, I know!  It was one of my late night experimentations which you can find here.  I honestly didn’t know if it would work or not and got so wrapped up in the process that I didn’t write down measurements or take photos of my complete step outs.  But luckily, I knew I needed at least a second rashguard for myself and made sure to document it this time!

Supplies Needed

Tutorial

Step 1:  Cut all pattern templates according to instructions.  Pull out the “Front Section” and add 1/4″ to the center-front as shown.  You will cut at the dashed line for just the “Top.”

Note: I made a size M and all measurements for center front, zipper guard, and zipper are ALL for this size.  You will have to adjust as needed for your sizing.

Step 2:  Cut all fabric according to instructions EXCEPT for the “Front Section.”  Instead of cutting the “Front Section” on the fold, you will cut TWO separate mirrored pieces using that 1/4″ you added in.

Step 3: Cut (2) 19 1/4″(length of the center front)  x 1/2″ strips of interfacing and fuse to each wrong side of the  center “Front Sections.”  Set aside.

left side of image is the Bottom and the right side is the Top

Step 4:  Cut (1) 19 1/4″ (same as length of center front) x 3″ strip of Main Fabric for the Zipper Guard.  Fold the fabric lengthwise with right sides together and press with low-heat iron, if needed. Mark seam with 1/4″ at the bottom.  For the top, measure 1/4″ down at the raw edge and then 1″ down on the folded side.  Connect the two points with a curved line as shown.  It doesn’t need to be precise!

Step 5: Sew on the markings you made. (They don’t need to be serged, but I went ahead and serger the seams while my machine was set up.)

Step 6:  Flip the Zipper Guard right side out, pushing out the bottom corner and the top curve.  Press with a low-heat iron.  Match the raw edges and finish with serger or zig-zag stitch.  Set aside.

Step 7:  Prepare Zipper by folding down the excess tape above the top stoppers.  Tack the fold into place approx. 1/8″ away from the edge.  Trim the overhanging tape.  (If you are making size L, you might be able to skip this step and use the full length of the zipper.)

***Follow instructions to complete the Grace Rashie (skipping all zipper steps.)  When you get to the hem, double check that the length of the finished center front matches the length of the zipper.

Step 8: With the wrong side of the Zipper facing up, add Wonder Tape to each long side of the tape.

Bottom

Top

Step 9:  Separate the Zipper and lay one zipper side down on the stitched side of the Zipper Guard.  Pictured is the LEFT side of the zipper (without the head,) but my previous version had the head with the guard.  I honestly don’t know which side of the zipper should sit with the guard, is technically correct.  I was playing to see if there was any real difference in how it wore on the body and I didn’t feel anything different…

Step 10:  Fold the Top of the Zipper Guard over Zipper and tack into place with 1/8″ seam allowance.

Step 11:  Working on the LEFT side of the garment, match the center front of the Rashie with the Zipper Guard, right sides together.  Use a zipper foot and sew itogether with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Open the Zipper Guard and press seam allowance to the back.  Top-stitch 1/8″ from the edge of the Zipper, going through the Main Fabric, Zipper, and seam allowance.  Repeat with the RIGHT zipper.

Congratulations!  You now have a custom swim rashguard to protect your skin against the sun and elements.  I love having these for the cool winds of the lake.  The best part is when the rashguard gets wet, I can easily zip it off!

Please let me know how this tutorial worked for you!

 

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read about my Disclosures, here.

Make the Most Comfortable Fabric Mask

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It’s hard to imagine months later, we are still here…  But now with mask mandates across so many US cities and numbers of COVID-19 cases back on the rise.  Everyday, more and more businesses are requiring masks when in their stores and even schools are requiring them as well.  We ALL need to do our part and wear a mask to prevent the spread of this coronavirus.  This is not a practice that will be going away soon, so I figured I would make the most comfortable fabric masks for my family and friends.

This post details what I’m using for my fabric masks (which are non-medical) and where to find supplies.  I am not a medical professional and/or a PPE engineer or expert.  I made these masks in lieu of purchasing medical grade supplies to keep them available for healthcare and other frontline personnel.  I encourage you to read the CDC fabric mask guidelines for additional info and how you can help prevent the spread of COVID-19.

Background

At the doctor’s with jewelry cording elastic and a paper clip nose bridge

Back in May, I took my oldest son (9 years old) to his annual check-up and it was required that both of us had to wear masks.  No problem.  From the time B put on his mask until we were seen and back in the car, one whole hour passed.  But during that time, he was batting at his ears the ENTIRE appointment.  Granted, the only elastic I could get my hands on at that time was jewelry cording.  While the cording fit behind the ears and didn’t push them forward, after awhile they felt like they were cutting into the ears a bit….making them so uncomfortable.  I knew we needed something different for comfort and just knowing masks are here to stay for awhile.

Pattern

With so many sewists in mask making mode since the beginning of the pandemic, it was not hard to find patterns.  I even have a Pleated Mask (with Ties) Tutorial you can find here.  If you are looking to upcycle or do a project with kids with no sewing, I also have a No Sew T-Shirt Mask Tutorial using hair elastics you can find here.  But for comfort, I was looking for a pattern that I could either tie in the back or use elastic to hold around the head instead of pressure by the ears.  I decided to use the Craft Passion version because (1) It was already drafted for a nice contoured fit around the face and used less fabric which I thought could be cooler? (2) It came in multiple sizes (3) Had instructions for a filter pocket and (4) Came with pattern length adjustments for elastic/tie widths.  You can find the very detailed blog post with videos and even more options here.

I decided to make the original mask with filter pockets, but used the extended length for wider elastic/ties even though the widest width elastic I would use is 1/4″.  The extra length allows room for the mask to scrunch and fit around the face better.  If it’s more narrow and closer to the stitching and folds (aka bulk) of the fabric, it doesn’t contour as well.

Elastic

Mask with DIY knit jersey “elastic”

With my kids as my target audience, I knew the elastic definitely needed to be changed.  When I was first testing out this pattern, I used knit ties made from cutting 1″ 4-way jersey knit fabric and pulling on each strip until they coiled around.  But I wanted a little bit of a faster (and easier) make since I was sewing for family and friends too.  Luckily, elastic supplies are back in stock and I was SO pleased to find rounded knit elastic that is MUCH softer  than traditional braided elastic and came in various widths.  To the touch, these elastics feel so much softer and do not have that rubber texture.  They are are incredibly more comfortable than the cording I was previously using.

I’ve been purchasing the majority of my elastics off of Amazon and like the flat 4mm width the most, but have had to order from different sellers based on available stock. From left to right (top image) and going top-left clockwise (in bottom image):

  • White Flat 4mm – Feels like a heavier stocking and has great stretch and recovery.  I got this particular one from Amazon, but have purchased similar product from Salt and Summit Supply.  If you are planning to make a lot of masks to sell or for friends and family, I got a great deal ($15.99) on a large 145 yd spool here.
  • White Rounded 4mm – This one feels more like the inside of a sock and also has good stretch and recovery.  It’s not quite flat, and not completely round, but definitely thicker than the above flat elastic. You can find it here.
  • Black Flat 6mm (1/4″) – The touch of this elastic is like a traditional pair of sheer stockings or like many baby headbands.  It stretches the most out of these three and had good recovery as well.  You can find it here.

The other great part about having a mask with elastic around the head is that you can pull it down (with washed hands and socially distanced from others) to eat or to grab a breath. The way the mask hangs, the inside doesn’t come in contact with your neck or clothing too!  I imagine that these masks will turn into the new “lost glove,” especially with kids.  So, I love that this style of mask can stay with the person and not be sitting on random surfaces, fall to the floor or stuffed in a pocket. Having the tie or knot on the top of the head is CLUTCH! You just have to grab the knot and pull down. This helps to reduce contact with the actual mask itself.

For each sized mask, I used the following lengths:

  • Men – 36″
  • Women/Teen – 30″
  • Older Kids – 24″
  • Little Kids – 20″

Note:  As with all items that hand around the neck, these can become a chocking hazard. Please make sure kids are monitored by an adult at ALL times while wearing a mask.

Cord Locks

To pull down the mask, the elastic would have to be adjusted and I just couldn’t imagine my kids having to tie their masks….they barely can tie their own shoes well!  So, I thought adding a plastic cord lock made the most sense.  This allows a nice firm fit around the head which keeps the sides of the masks close to the cheeks and it won’t shift if you have to talk while wearing the mask.

Sphere vs Slim Cord Locks

When I first was looking at locks, I (of course) went to Amazon to find a deal on just a handful of them to try out.  I bought the spherical ones here and while they are strong and give you ample surface area to pinch down on the lock, they were just too bulky for my tastes.  Nothing goes to waste, so I used them on just the men’s masks I was making.  I then found these slimmer locks from Paracord Planet for the best pricing at the time ($21.99/50) with more color choices too.  But just the other week I found the same locks only in black for WAY less ($8.49/50) here!  These are the same quality..if not a little better than the ones from PP.

Nose Bridge

There is some debate among sewists to which side the nose bridge should go…and I choose the inside – call me a rebel!  For my method, I complete the entire mask and sew on a 4″ x 1/2″ piece of acrylic felt, leaving  a 1/2″ opening to add and remove the metal when washing or for replacement purposes.  I back-stitch on both sides of the opening and at the short ends of the felt rectangle for extra security.

You can use any material to make the nose bridge chamber (ribbon, twill tape, folded fabric, etc.)  Personally, I like the felt for the extra loft and softness on my nose.  I wear glasses just about every single day and definitely have been blinded by fog coming out of the refrigerated produce room in Costco!  The extra loft seems to help catch more of the moisture and I love how you can leave it with a raw-edge…double-win!

Domesticity vs Amazon

Early on in the pandemic, I was using pipe cleaners and paper clips for nose bridges and they were okay, but I was never truly fog-free.  Then metal strips were slowly coming onto the scene and they are wonderful!  The strength and extra surface area that helps wrap your nose is truly key in making a good seal.  I first bought (50) 3 1/2″ x 1/8″ aluminum strips from Domesticity back in May and they are great!  I tried to bend one bridge back and forth 50+ times and it still hasn’t snapped.  But I’m always on the hunt for a great deal and found 200 of these strips with an adhesive backing for just about the same price.  While these strips are also Aluminum and slightly larger at 3.54″ x 1/5″, they are also slightly thinner and broke after about 38 repeated bends.  Even though I have plenty of extras for back-up, I would definitely switch back to the ones at Domesticity for their strength.

Filters

As I mentioned above, I used the Craft Passion mask pattern since it was drafted with a filter pocket feature.  You can purchase mask filters like these, but I caution that they do come from overseas and do not come in sterile single packaging.  I have yet to find a domestic supplier, so if you know of one, please comment below!  You can certainly use paper towels, another layer of fabric or coffee filters for extra protection.  Shown above, you can see how a filter fits inside this mask.

Fabric

Fortunately, my stash has always included lots of designer quilt cottons from my quilt making days.  I was able to use my stash through the beginning of the pandemic and I’m getting around to supporting small quilt shops as I receive personal requests for masks from friends and family.  Of course, I love Sew to Speak which is local to me and I can pay online for contactless pick-up.  While picking up the nose bridges, I’ve also purchased fabric from Domesticity.  I love Circa Fabric Studio for great clearance prices on designer cottons and recently bought from Hart’s Fabric which has a nice selection.

Final Thoughts

I think this is a great pattern for a mask and fits such a wide variety of faces.  The feedback I’ve received is a combination of the softness of the fabric (designer cotton, baby!) and how nice it is to have pressure relieved from the ears.  The cord-lock is MUCH appreciated by parents and it only took a few learning sessions for my 7 and 9 year olds to put them on and take them off on their own.  Please let me know how any of these supplies worked out for you!

DON’T FORGET TO WEAR A MASK!

 

Hugs and Stitches!

Cristy

 

While there are many affiliate links in this post (please read full Disclosures here,) I purchased all of these supplies on my own for my own fabric masks.  I’m sharing the supplies based off of feedback when I shared many of these links on my Instagram account.

Fabric Face Mask Tutorial Using Ties

When schools shut down in mid-March for my kids’ school, I knew something big was happening.  In addition to US news, I follow a lot of news out of Asia and the outlook was pretty bleak for us in the states.  So when the government, along with a multitude of healthcare organizations said we short on Personal Protective Equipment (PPE,) I was shocked.  But then came the pleading of all sewists to start making fabric masks…and I was just like you…How can a FABRIC mask do anything against an airborne VIRUS???

But I fell in line like a good soldier and just started making masks with the guidance given by the CDC and a host of other online resources.  Initially, I tried out this Fu Mask version that was more contoured to the face, but it left a lot of room around my cheeks and even my husband’s (which is more full with a  beard.)  The fit was not the greatest and I ended up folding a dart in to take out the excess room.  However,  I knew if I was going to make and donate masks, I needed to make a version that was going to fit the largest range of faces AND be conducive to production sewing…aka…sewing a TON of them at a time.

The standard pleated surgical style was it.  The rectangle shape makes it a quick sew and the pleats allow a roomy fit for all different face shapes.  But instead of over-the-ear elastic, I chose to use fabric ties help accommodate for different head sizes and for medical sterilization purposes.  Early on, we just didn’t know how elastic would hold under continuous high temperature washings at medical facilities.  Also, elastic was hard to come by with everyone making masks for the lack of national PPE supplies.  My first 200 donations went to private practice doctors, police officers and workers at a mental health facility.  So I wanted to make sure these could all be cleaned in industrial washing machines without compromising the integrity of the elastic.  With all of this, I also had to choose a style that I could personally make the quickest way.  So this is the technique I used.

Click into my video below to watch the entire mask-making progress.  You will need:

  • (2) 9″ x 7″ rectangles of fabric – one for lining and one for exterior.  I used fleece for the lining when it was still cooler outside, but then switched to quilt cotton for both layers once weather began to warm up.
  • (4) 18″ Ties – These can be make from bias strips as shown in the video but can be swapped out with  twill tape, ribbon, shoelaces, and even piping rope.

Although, the first few months of the pandemic were quite frantic with home-schooling and then  making masks, I’m still so thankful to have the gift of sewing in my life.  I felt my heart swell with every mask made and delivered to those working on the front lines. <3

 

Take care of your loved ones and WEAR THAT MASK!!!!

Cristy

Hardware || Install Rivets by Hand

Of all the things I’m asked about in my sewing, I get the most questions about hardware.  It’s such an easy way to take a project to the next level like with the Megan Bucket Bag and Claire Foldover Clutch hack.  ‘Just an extra touch of metal can really take a bag from “homemade” to “handcrafted.”  That’s exactly what I was looking for in my bag creations.  Before I got a “fancy” hardware press, I installed all my rivets by hand for at least a year.  And even with the press, I still set them manually based on my needs.  Below is a quick video to show you how to install rivets and lots of my personal tips as well!

Megan Bucket Bag

Claire Fold-over Clutch

 

Materials

First, you need the right materials.  Below are the materials and links (some affiliate) which I use in the video.

  • Steel Jeweler’s Bench – This is a small but mighty block and handles all of my own personal hardware needs.  I used to set rivets on the basement floor (which you shouldn’t do, but we’ll discuss that later) and this block is such a game changer so I can use my own cutting table and not have to go down two flights of steps.
  • Fabric Hole Punch Pliers – This type of punch plier is by far my favorite.  The bed of the tool where you place your fabric is plastic vs. metal.  Some people like the metal bed because it will last longer, but I MUCH prefer the plastic bed because you will get better cuts and the actual hole bit will stay sharp longer.  Yes, the bed will begin to wear away but there is a replacement and each one will last you a long time…probably longer than the bit.
  • Rivet Setter – My preferred tool is this larger 9mm one because I personally use rivets with caps this large.  This will be able to set smaller ones too!
  • Concave Anvil – Since I’m using double-cap rivets, a concave anvil is needed to keep the shape  of the other cap, else it will completely flatten.
  • Hammer – I’ve used a few different hammers – small and large and I really like this Fiskar’s one.  The grip is comfortable and the 12 oz head allows for a good solid strike.  You can certainly use a mallet instead, but I’ve had good luck with just a hammer.
  • Double-Cap Rivets – These are the “small” rivets with an 8 mm head and 6 mm stem.  I use this size the most for decorative application and will move up to a longer stem for thick folded straps.  I prefer double to single cap rivets purely for inventory purposes to handle all of my needs.

Process

In the video, I take you through both leather and fabric applications which are pretty much the same.  I included a few tips but want to elaborate a little more based on my own experience.

  • Work at counter-height – For me, my results are MUCH better when I work at counter-height (while standing) versus working on the floor.  I know when you first start out, the concrete basement or garage floor might be the hardest surface you have and this is definitely how I started out with rivet application.  But there is something about leaning over a project that increases the arc (maybe?) of my swing and I ended up with a lot of crooked, ill-placed rivets.  So, if you can, I highly suggest working on an old table – over one of the legs for extra stability.

  • Select the right size rivet for EACH project – Initially, you may get the urge to just buy one size to fit all of your needs, but there is a reason there are SO many difference size combinations.  While the cap is more for aesthetics, the stem length is key in a proper application.  I recommend about 3-5mm stem longer than the thickness of your project when you finger-press down on it.  You want the stem to be long enough to mushroom into the cap.  Else, your project may pull apart later with use.  But you don’t want it so long that it could “over-mushroom” and damage the cap.  The extra length also provides more opportunity for a crooked installation.  So, that’s why you want to minimize your risk.  6mm and 8mm posts were pretty much all I used for a long time and then I expanded out later when I was working with thicker substrates

  • Hold Setter down at base close to rivet – This provides the most control so the setter is aligned and straight over the rivet.  If you hold the setter too high, the impact of the hammer may move the setter and you could get an unsightly imprint on the cap.
  • Spin the rivet between your fingers to check for a proper application (1:18 in video) – You know that the rivet is completely installed when you can’t rotate it between your fingers.  It shouldn’t be able to move at all.  If the rivet is still loose or you can still see the stem, go back and install again.

Abbey Convertible Backpack

If you do have a crooked installation or accidentally mis-aligned the setter on a rivet cap, I’ll show you how to remove a rivet with next week’s blog post.  Please share below if you have even more tips to help along fellow readers!

 

Enjoy!

 

Cristy

 

 

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read about all of my disclosure here.

Megan Bucket Bag – Sewing Pattern

She is HERE!!!!!  What started as just a fun experiment in bag design (just for myself!) has turned into the latest new pattern, the Megan Bucket Bag.  This has been a labor of love with over a year passing since I first made it…..and then an extra month delay as the country locked down and I turned my efforts to PPE.  At times, it seemed like this pattern would never be published, but with all of your encouragement and an incredible tester team, it is available today in my shop!

Namesake

This bag is named after another one of my sweet nieces, Megan.  Every time I would see her, she always carried around a large purse and I knew a generously sized bucket bag would HAVE to be her’s!  She was always an avid reader and so this bag can carry around a small library if needed.  Megan loves  theater and has SUCH a beautiful voice.  It only made sense to have plenty of mix and match bag options for whatever “role” would come next.  Like my dear Megan, this bag is practical yet has just enough edge to stand out from the crowd.

Background

I’ve made nine different versions of the Megan Bucket Bag, starting with the OG, made with buttery taupe cowhide, which you can read about here.  This is STILL my everyday bag with the neutral color and has really held up well – as you would expect from genuine leather!  However, in order to turn this design into a bag pattern, I knew I had to edit it down.  For me, this is the hard part of creating patterns.  I had to adapt all of the features so that you could also make it in fabric, in leather, or a mix of both! This was another prototype version you can check out here.  This was my first fabric version I made while, of course, holding onto the leather details.  I still love that extra thin piece of leather on top of the strap….I’ll have to remember that for my next Megan bag!

Features

After teaching many bag classes and workshops, I know that many students want to make professional looking bags, but don’t necessarily have all the right equipment – including a heavy duty sewing machine.  So my goal with the construction, was to use some alternative techniques to take the bulk out of bag-making.  This helps to think outside the box so you can make bags with a wider array of equipment…not just industrial grade machines. “The Megan Bucket Bag is a fresh take on the classic slouchy bag silhouette, but with a more pronounced cube shape. The lines are clean with side seams hidden by overlays and rivets. There are two different views whether you want to make the Megan out of one fabric, or if you would like to use a raw-edge accent fabric to add a little more depth to the look.  With this pattern, you will learn different strap making techniques to take the bulk out of your fabric and gain ways to present a welt zipper pocket with plates or a cover. You will also learn an off-set bag technique for the overlays that won’t compromise your side seam stitching. There are plenty of options with snaps and the use of accent fabric for you to mix and match for your perfect bag.” This is a pattern for you to learn:
  • 2 -layer straps
  • Off-set overlay sewing to keep the integrity of the side seams
  • 4 different ways to present a welt zipper pocket with 2 plate options, a cover, or left bare.
  • Slip Pocket with an overlay
  • Connectors to help hold sides together
View A was designed for a single fabric and perfect for a newer bag-maker who wants to just use canvas.  This is a great way to start and learn new purse techniques without having to deal with other substrates.  However, this same version can be used with a single faux leather and still have a striking look. This view has a handy outside pocket with a cover to keep the look smooth and sleek but still has other details like the strap loops to add more interest. View B uses an accent fabric such as leather, suede, cork or vinyl that can be left raw edged without fraying.  These substrates are great looks to add more depth and texture to a bag.  The accent fabric is incorporated on to the side overlays, strap, and is used as decorative plating against the zipper pocket and slip pocket.  However, you can also swap out the accent fabric with some webbing to speed up your project. This pattern was written with mid-weight accent fabrics in mind with 2-3mm thickness to have enough structure in the strap.  However, I know there are a number of other fabrics you may want to use that are lighter and thinner – especially many types of cork.  Consider adding a second layer of accent fabric to the back of the strap as shown below.  Play around and see what you like!

Hardware

The main aesthetic element to the Megan Bucket Bag is the side overlay with a row of bright beautiful rivets.  Although I’ve used rivets for a long time with my bags, they were only in the patterns as alternation options for securing straps and such.  This time, the rivets are the featured stars and are not just for looks, but also for structural purposes.  They help secure the strap in place around the gorgeous O-rings.  This give such a strong, yet delicate look. To help hold the shape of the bag and keep contents safe, four sets of snaps are added to the lining.  They help keep the cube shape of the Megan while still staying slouchy like a good bucket bag does.  The purse can then be easily expanded by just releasing the snaps. Although the pattern includes the use of rivets and snaps, there are no actual instructions to install them.  Since there are SO many different types of hardware out there with multiplied by different tastes of the sewist, there was no way to include instructions for everything.  Rivets can be single sided and double-sided.  They can be shaped like pyramids, domes, or flat like burrs.  Snaps also have a number of  different sizes and features as well.  I prefer “spring” double cap snaps, but you can use magnetic or even sew-in snaps too!  This pattern allows you to use YOUR preference of material.   But just like with interfacing, you must remember to follow manufacturer’s instructions.  I’ll be showing my preferred methods of rivet and snap installations all next week, so keep an eye out!!! There are truly SO many different ways to make the Megan Bucket Bag.  If you are ready to make your own, click below for the pattern AND the hardware kits….it doesn’t get any easier, right?

|| Click HERE to shop the Megan Bucket Bag Pattern || 

|| Click HERE to shop The Hardware Kits ||

Project Details:

Tester Inspiration

There is nothing better than seeing all of your makes with my patterns.  Here are even more great versions from my testers to inspire your Megan Bucket Bag:
  • Jean widened out the cork on her bag to show it off.
  • Jen’s faux leather version is so professional and chic.
  • Loni used webbing for the accent on View B.
  • Loni stepped up her game with this all leather version.
  • Maggie used this unique fabric with metal woven in. I bet the reflection on it is so cool.
  • Maggie also made this fun version of View B with yellow leather.
  • Mallory’s bag looks like it’s sitting in a store – so beautiful.
  • You gotta love waxed canvas in such a fun color. Great job, Nela!
  • How perfect is this neutral bag by Sherrene?
I cannot wait to see all of your makes!!! Happy Sewing, Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my full disclosure here.