Category: Uncategorized

Tutorial: Make a Simplified Rolled Handle with Less Layers

If you are looking to really make a bag look CLASSY, a rolled handle can instantly add that sophistication.  That’s why I added them into my Colleen Tote Bag pattern!  It adds more durability and strength than flat handles and the round style makes it SO much more comfortable in the hands!

The instructions for rolled handles in the Colleen are manageable on home machines….as long as you are going through fabric and not other substrates.  EIGHT layers of canvas can be managed with a heavy duty needle and increased stitch length.  However, if you want to make the same kind of handles with cork, vinyl or leather….you can pretty much forget about it — unless you have an industrial machine.  Well, now, you can still have these type of handles with your DOMESTIC MACHINE!!!  This tutorial will take you through an alternative method to make rolled handles with only 4 layers  — perfect for those thicker raw edge substrates!

Tutorial

Please note this rolled handle example is for the Erin Backpack, but the same technique would be the same for the Colleen Tote.

1. Cut the width of your handle 2x what you want the finished ends to be.  In this case, the ends need to be 1″ wide and the cork is cut 2″ wide.  (If you are making the Colleen Tote, you would want your handle to be 3″ wide and not 6″.)

 

2. Mark the center of the strap lengthwise

 

3. Add a very thin layer of glue on each side of the line you marked.

 

4. Fold each long side into the line you drew and clip to secure.  Make sure the sides meet each other in the center.  Wait until all glue has dried.

 

5. Mark how far up you would like the roll to start/stop.  For the Erin Backpack, I marked 1 1/2″ from each short end.  For the Colleen, it would be 2 1/2″.  Sew the Strap together 1/8″ along the folded sides and then crossing over at your mark.

 

6. Place a thin layer of glue along the center fabric seam,  in-between the top-stitching.  If you are making the Colleen Tote, this is when you would add your cording.  Since this handle is more narrow for the Erin, I’ve omitted any cording.

 

7. Fold long sides together , encasing the fabric seam but only in-between markings.  This created the “roll” of the handle.  Clip in place and allow to dry completely.

*Note how the handle ends have the fabric seam exposed lengthwise.  The glue and stitching will keep the strap intact but this is why this method is meant for non-fraying substrates only.

 

8. Top-stitch along the double-fold side in between markings. (You may need to increase stitch-length to handle the extra layers.) Backstitch well at the start and end of your stitching.

 

9. Double check that all stitching is secure.

 

10.  Optional – Add a rivet right above the end markings to keep the Rolled Handle extra secure.

 

Congratulations!  You have a rolled handle ready for any bag!!!

 

This is how the handle looks placed on the back of the Erin Backpack as part of my Sew Along you can find here.

 

I hope you enjoyed this easier alternative method to making rolled handles with your favorite cork, leather, or vinyl!!!

 

Happy Sewing!

 

Cristy

Tutorial: Seal Edges of Cork, Leather or Vinyl

If you are looking for a simple way to finish the edges of your non-fraying substrates, this is it!  The following tutorial will help you seal the edges of cork, leather, suede and vinyl.  Many of the man-made substrates have a fabric backing which can still fray over time.  Sealing the edges with  paint ensures that you have a clean finish and won’t see any of that fraying.  This tutorial is great for:

TUTORIAL

To get started, these are the Materials Needed (with affiliate links):

  • Project – cork, leather, suede or vinyl
  • Leather Paint- I used “Neutral” as an all-purpose clearcoat
  • Paint Applicator – There are many out in the market and this works well for my needs as long as the post is clean and oiled well
  • Cup/Dish – I use a simple bathroom cup which I can throw away later
  • Emery board or Fine grit sandpaper

 

Click into the video ABOVE to view the full process.

TIP:  In-between coats drying, I like to seal up the extra paint in a bag so that it doesn’t dry out.  This allows me to maximize the paint and the paint has stayed wet for over a day for me.

I hope you enjoy this tutorial to make your projects look even MORE professional!

 

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

 

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read my Disclosures, here.

Announcing the Erin Backpack Sew-Along!

Welcome to the Erin Backpack Sew Along! 

Since all of my bag and accessory patterns are all digital, I have the luxury of unlimited pages and love the fact I can add more details into my instructions…but I know one photograph is not nearly enough for some of the more complicated steps.  I was asked by YOU to provide a sew along and HAD to oblige!  So if you already have some questions or comments, please post them below so I can address them during the month!

DETAILS

This sew along will be broken down into 6 parts as listed below and will be posted every Monday and Thursday throughout March, starting March 8th. 

  1. Prepare the Fabric + Hardware tabs (including cutting, interfacing and basting)
  2. Make the Convertible Strap and Key Fob + a hack for Permanent Backpack Straps
  3. Create the Back Panel
  4. Create the Front Panel
  5. Make the Lining
  6. Final Bag Assembly 

For some added fun, I have prizes for participating in this sew along on Instagram.  Post any picture of your progress whether it be a fabric pull or the finished product and use the hashtags #loveyousewpatterns, #erinbackpack and #erinbackpacksewalong to be added into the pool of entries.  I’ll randomly select a winner for $25 shop credit, a copy of all of my digital bag patterns, and a package of my favorite bag notions at the end of the month.  It’s that simple!  Don’t forget to tag me @loveyousew_ so I can see your makes along the way!

>> To get you going, you can grab the Erin Backpack pattern for 20% off  and Hardware Kits for 15% off in my shop,  here, all month long.

If you are ready for a little pre-work, you can checkout the introductory post of the Erin Backpack here and find lots of inspiration in the tester versions here.

Now let’s talk a little more in depth about fabric and supplies you need before we officially start next week!

FABRIC

As you know, the selection of fabric is KEY with any bag.  You have to look a little into the future to see how you really want to use your Erin Backpack.  Will it be used outdoors, for home, or maybe for the family?  The answers will help you decide what fabrics you want to use. Below are the fabric notes (as written in the instructions of the pattern – in blue italics) along with some extra guidance.

This pattern is written for bottom-weight fabrics such as canvas, duck cloth, and denim with weights of ~ 6 oz per square yard or more. — For large bags like the Erin Backpack, you want a heavier and more durable main fabric that can withstand some beating.  The last thing you want to do is make a bag with fabric that ends up wearing away before you want to stop using it.  For the sew along, I will be using a heavy and durable 9 oz Expedition dry oilskin canvas by Merchant and Mills.  I chose this fabric for the weight and color, but also for its water resistant properties which is PERFECT for an everyday backpack.  On the flip side of heavy duty fabrics, you also want to be cautious with selecting a fabric that maybe TOO thick for your personal home machine.  (I sew with a semi-industrial Juki and am confident it can handle this fabric.) There are points in the construction where you will be dealing with several layers of fabric, interfacing and accent fabric all combined.  Always test the layers BEFORE sewing the actual bag.

*As a side note, since I’m using a treated fabric, the manufacturer states I cannot use heat or iron this fabric and will be adjusting interfacing in the first part of the sew-along (which is fine given the weight of the fabric.)  So if you are using something like a waxed canvas or a vinyl, you will have to make sure the weight balances out the fact that you will have to omit some interfacing.

The lining is based on quilt cotton and any other fabric with the same weight (~4 oz) can be used such as linen, chambray and twill. — Since the lining does not get nearly as much wear as the main fabric, you can have more fun with a tight woven quilt cotton.  This would also be a great place to use a light laminate like these from Cloud 9.  If you want the inside to be wipeable, this is a nice laminate that is easy to sew through.  I have such a deep stash of fabrics from old projects that I will be using leftovers from a linen blend fabric I used on a dress years ago….But doesn’t it look great with the canvas?!?

The accent fabric is intended to be left with a raw edge, allowing you to use leather, suede, vinyl, cork or another non-fraying substrate. This allows you to add some high-end details to elevate your bag. The Erin Backpack assumes the use of thicker 2-3 mm accent fabric. *If you use a thinner accent substrate like some corks or a lambskin leather, you may want to cut two handles for a sturdier finish. For this bag, I’ll be using some gold flecked cork fabric from Sew Sweetness and will show you how to finish this substrate, as well as how to reinforce some areas.

If you are looking for other sources of faux leather/vinyl Big Z Fabric’s has a nice selection and I’ve used the Terracotta DuroLast vinyl in a Megan Bucket Bag, here.  This brand is great for a beginners with a more basic home machine because it’s thinner and MUCH easier to sew through. The pebbled finish makes it look like real leather too!  Sew Sweetness also carries thinner faux leather as well…including the black I used for the pattern photography.


INTERFACING

The interfacing mix is based on these suggested fabrics and the foam is crucial to holding the structure, while still being pliable.  

  • Please make sure you are using a non-fusible foam to avoid wrinkles on the main fabric as the bag wears.  By Annie’s Soft and Stable is my preferred foam which is denser and thus, provides more structure than Pellon foam.  You can grab it in my shop here.  But if you can only get Pellon, it works well too.  
  • For woven interfacing, I generally use 60” wide Pellon Shapeflex SF101, but I just tried out Barb’s Bags Interfacing (which is great too…just have to see how it wears before a full endorsement) to block fuse (when you fuse the interfacing to the fabric first and then cut out the pattern pieces…but we’ll get into more of this next week!)  It’s allows me to use the entire width of fabric, but you generally can only find 20″ WOF in stores….which IMO is more wasteful.
  • For the firm stabilizer, Pellon Peltex sew-in interfacing is a great choice.  It provides a stronger base for both the lid and bottom of the backpack.

If you would like to use other types of fabrics, please test interfacing with fabric swatches to see what you like before cutting.

HARDWARE

With a full-size backpack of this nature, there is a good bit of hardware involved.  This helps the bag look more polished and gives the ability to be be a convertible bag.  I’ve sourced some amazing hardware from Emmaline Bags and By Annie’s as part of a full kit you can find here in my shop.

The kit includes:
(4) 1 1/2″ Triangle Rings
(2) 1 1/2″ Swivel Clasps
(1) 1 1/2″ Rectangle Ring
(1) 1 1/2″ Strap Slider
(1) 1/2″ Swivel Clasp
(1) 1/2″ D-Ring
(3) Sets of 12.5 mm Double-Cap Spring Snaps
(5) Sets of Medium Double-Cap Rivets (9mm cap x 8mm post)
(20) Sets of Small Double-Cap Rivets (8mm cap x 6mm post)

Will we be going through some hardware installation?  Yes!  I know this is a tricky part for many folks and you can refer back to the Intro post for some links to videos I already have.

ZIPPERS

With four zippers in the Erin Backpack pattern using three different sizes, it’s a great idea to use zipper tape to cut exactly what you will need.  I used metal zippers for a long time for their polished style, but have fallen in love with these nylon ones that look like metal!  You can cut through them with craft scissors (don’t use your special fabric ones!) and sew right through them as well.  There is no laborious effects to cut away teeth with these zippers!  I love the ones from Emmaline Bags (if you are looking for basic colored tapes) and My Handmade Space for more variety in both tape color and teeth finishes.

Other Supplies

There are plenty of other supplies and notions I reference in the Erin Backpack pattern.  For your ease, I’ve added them all onto an “Idea List” below through Amazon.  It’s included my favorite glue, fabric punch, hardware setting tools, and also the interfacings mentioned above.  I continue to add to all of my list as part of my Storefront all the time as I test out new products in my projects….so don’t forget to “like” it!

>> Making the Erin Backpack list on Amazon

 

I hope this is enough information to get you started on the Erin Backpack.  Again, please post any questions and/or comments below.  I’ll be sewing along with you so that I can address any concerns along the way!

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

Please note, this post contains affiliate links.  Please refer to my Disclosures for additional information.

Erin Backpack Tester Round-Up

Striped Erin Backpack by Love You Sew

One of my samples

Love You Sew patterns could not happen without the support of my AMAZING testing team. You can count the number of my published patterns on two hands now, but I still feel SO new to the game. With every pattern, I’ve been learning more about design and the testing process.  I have them to thank all of them for supporting me and even bearing through some of the growth pains…
Erin Backpack by Love You Sew - Interior View

Early Sample with different play of rivet placements

This last call out to test the Erin Backpack  came right smack in the middle of the holiday season and while COVID numbers were climbing around the nation. It left my group MUCH busier personally and unavailable to test.  I still wanted to release this pattern before Christmas for those stuck at with new stay-at-home orders in place so they could have a good winter project.  With these conditions, only a few testers could complete the bag, but there is still a TON of inspiration below.  You can also see other versions of the Erin Backpack here and here.
Erin Backpack by Love You Sew - Back View

Early Sample – Back View

This is one of my early samples while I was still playing around with construction ideas.  Detailed information on it as follows (with affiliate links):

TESTER VERSIONS

Without further ado, this first bag was made by Jean W.  She used hardware which you can find here along with metal zippers on the outside and nylon on the inside. I absolutely love the fun sheep lining she used  — It is SO incredibly cute! This next bag is made by Maggie M.  She is a prolific bag maker and you can snag many of her makes for your very own (just DM her!)  At first, I thought Maggie used a pink glitter vinyl for her backpack and it’s just regular cotton.  Way to get the look of vinyl on a bag!   I always enjoy seeing how Maggie plays with color and prints in her makes and this is no exception. Nela B. is both a quilter and bag-maker! You gotta check out her makes…including her incredible piecing skills here on Instagram. The best part of bag-making is the at interior can be just as good as the outside.  Nela used a beautiful floral print for the lining  swapped around some of the interior features to make it uniquely her  own! Carrie F. is the newest tester to join the team and also makes her bags to sell.  You NEED to check out her Etsy shop for some beauties.  She  came through with this gorgeous succulent version of the backpack. She is expecting (congrats!!!) and already has plans to use her new creation as a diaper bag. As you can see, there are all different ways to personalize your Erin Backpack. With a change of fabric and zipper, you can truly give each bag a completely new look. I can’t wait to see what you do with this pattern. Don’t forget to use #ErinBackpack and #LoveYouSewPatterns so I can see your beautiful makes on social media! For Erin Backpack Introductory post, head here. For Erin Backpack Sew-Along, come back soon — It’s tentatively planned for March 2021.   Hugs and Stitches! Cristy      
This post may contain affiliate links.  For my full disclosure, read here.

Introducing the Erin Backpack Sewing Pattern

The Erin Backpack sewing pattern is here!!!  This new  S P A C I O U S  bag is ready to be made out of your favorite sturdy fabrics. With a design full of pockets, Erin will be your perfect travel companion — whether for you or for the whole family!  Wherever life takes you, the Erin Backpack will be ready!  You can grab the digital pattern right here.

It’s been awhile since I’ve released a sewing pattern.  ‘Just about a full year has passed by, but my excuse is — of course, 2020.  With the pandemic, and social unrest of this country, I was left with very little motivation to design while so many people were suffering.  Like many of you, my home life has been flipped upside down and it seems like we have a new normalcy rather than a return to 2019 type of “normal.”

It’s taken me some time, but I got some motivation in the fall to make a prototype of the Erin thanks to the Sew Pink Blog Hop you can read here.  Once I made that bag, I was feeling the flow and really wanted to ride the wave of bag-making and designing again!

Inspiration

Original “Erin” Backpack

I made my first Erin (before it even had a name!) for my cousin over a year ago.  She was looking for a large backpack for her growing family and wanted something unique and custom…with all the pockets, of course!  This was right when 90s fanny packs were reemerging and that half-moon shape was really influencing bag trends.  I wanted to test myself and see if I could design a backpack with that half-circle lid while stretching the body into a full-size backpack (since that style was missing out of my line-up.)  And that’s how the Erin Backpack was born!

Swapped out the Strap for Heavy Duty Webbing

Namesake

As many of you know I name all of my bags after my nieces. This bag is no exception. It is named after my incredibly sweet niece out in Oregon.  One of my first memories was a camping trip to Cape Lookout on the coast.  My husband and I were only married a few months and I really didn’t know this side of the family since they lived far away. Well, we had SUCH a great time out west and was welcomed with such open arms. This bag reminds me of our time on the coast — especially the waxed canvas version that definitely wants to be out on an adventurous hike with those HUGE northwest trees!

Sewing Level

While the Erin Backpack is made for the everyday, the complexity of its construction leaves it for more intermediate sewists. With the half moon shape of the lid and base, the walls are attached with Y-seams. There is nothing to be scared of….Y-seams are just when 3 seams come together and do NOT form a right angle. However, when you throw in thicker bag layers, it can be tricky to wrangle the seams into place.

Also, the pattern calls for the use of leather, vinyl, or cork.  These can be tricky substrates to use if you are not familiar.  You can check out my Tips on Sewing Vinyl here, which have many of the same suggestions I would offer to leather and cork. But my main tips would be to:

  • Use a Teflon or Walking foot to stop the presser foot from sticking to the fabric.
  • Make sure you have some heavy duty needles, sizes 14-18, handy to handle the layers
  • Increase your stitch-length as you work through thicker layers – Hand crank if needed
  • Use washi or scotch tape under your Zipper foot to prevent sticking
  • If sticking continues, you can also place tissue paper in between the leather and your presser foot

Bag Features

  • Body – A distinctive half cylinder shape that melts into the body and is spacious enough to use as overnight travel backpack or even a diaper bag!

  • Zippered Main Compartment – Everything remains safe while accessible with a large opening. The lid can fold back allowing you to see almost everything inside. It’s perfect for staying organized!

  • 10…yes, 10 pockets! – With Zippers, elastic, snap and slip pockets, your bases are covered!

  • Converts from a Backpack to a Shoulder Bag – By switching the swivel clasps from the rear to the front and releasing it from the back rectangle ring, you have a new bag!

While not a part of the pattern, I added these leather accents to the elastic pockets with the scrap from the zipper plate.

  • Key Fob – I always love this feature to find your keys – especially in a very roomy bag!

  • Accessory Strap – This is another simple feature that can be used to hold sunglasses, a pen or a place to wrap your sanitizer onto. I love the way it visually breaks up the space along the lining as well!

  • Adjustable Strap with D-Ring – To be a convertible bag, you need a long adjustable strap.  The pattern calls for a 60″ long strap, but does have instructions for piecing a longer one together (if needed.) With the popularity of wireless ear pods, I’ve been seeing this D-Ring feature on all the high-end designer bags. It’s another simple feature to include, but can be so helpful as you are traveling. Check out how to make The Tiny Sophia Bag to hold your ear pod case.

Hardware

With all of the options in the Erin Backpack, comes quite a bit of Hardware.  I’m a big fan of rivets for their professional finish and have added snaps into the mix as well.  If you don’t want to source your own, I’ve found high quality options which you can grab a in my shop!

The kit includes:
(4) 1 1/2″ Triangle Rings
(2) 1 1/2″ Swivel Clasps
(1) 1 1/2″ Rectangle Ring
(1) 1 1/2″ Strap Slider
(1) 1/2″ Swivel Clasp
(1) 1/2″ D-Ring
(3) Sets of 12.5 mm Double-Cap Spring Snaps
(5) Sets of Medium Double-Cap Rivets (9mm cap x 8mm post)
(20) Sets of Small Double-Cap Rivets (8mm cap x 6mm post)

The sewing pattern does NOT include instructions for hardware installation or the setting tools.

  • Rivets – But you can check out my Rivet Installation by Hand video here and I recommend this rivet setting tool by Tandy (if you want to hand set them.)
  • Spring Snaps – You can check Snap installation at the 30 second mark in this Instagram video for help.   For the snaps, I recommend this tool which is used in the video.  It comes with a few sizes, but 633 would handle the snaps in my hardware kit.

Featured Bags

BUTTERFLIES –

  • Main Fabric :  Ruby Star Society Tiger Fly Canvas
  • Lining: Mystery Polyester Railroad fabric leftover from a skirt
  • Accent Fabric: Faux Leather from Sew Sweetness
  • Zippers: Antique Brass Coil on Black Tape from Emmaline Bags
  • Hardware: Triangle Rings from By Annie’s and the rest from Emmaline Bags (same as the kit for sale)

OLIVE –

  • Main Fabric :  Robert Kaufman Waxed Canvas from Sew to Speak.  You can also find it here.
  • Lining: Mystery Polyester Railroad fabric leftover from a skirt
  • Accent Fabric:  Thrifted leather (same as from my beloved quilted duffle bag.)
  • Zippers: Metal look nylon Bronze with Chocolate tape from My Handmade Space (get on the mailing list for lots of great coupons!)
  • Hardware: Triangle Rings from By Annie’s and the rest from Emmaline Bags (same as the kit for sale)

MANY THANKS

As always, I thank all of you for encouraging me to publish my patterns!  This, by far, is my longest and most complicated bag pattern to date.  I like to challenge myself to more intermediate and advanced sewing and I know many of you are the same.  But my group of testers from all different bag-making levels were able to nail this bag.  (I’ll be showing off their makes in another blog post!)  Their help was absolutely instrumental in clarifying steps and adding in more information to help you along.  I hope you enjoy the #ErinBackpack!

Watch out for a sew-along in the next few months! 😉

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read my full disclosures, here.