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Spring Roll Pouch – Tester Inspiration

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Writing bag patterns is a long process…especially for a one-woman business. My patterns are only successful through the help of the best test team out there! Not only do they make bags with the initial pattern draft and instructions, but they provide so much great feedback as beginner and seasoned bag-makers. I feel very lucky to have all of these incredible sewists with me — especially for the Spring Roll Pouch.

I just love seeing my patterns through the lens of all of you and the testing group gives me that first glimpse. We work out small issues with wording, pictures and how best to show certain steps. When you live with a pattern in your head and on your computer screen for months, it’s hard to step back and see what a typical sewist will see. This team certainly did not disappoint and came through with such great help and you can see it in the pattern.

Testers, listed in order by gallery photos:

  • By @redcurlscrafts
  • By @redcurlscrafts
  • By @redcurlscrafts
  • By @malloryhillmakes
  • By @malloryhillmakes
  • By @malloryhillmakes
  • By @kiwi.bruin.creations
  • By @kiwi.bruin.creations
  • By @kiwi.bruin.creations
  • By @stefanieroy
  • By @stefanieroy
  • By @stefanieroy
  • By @the.crafty.reporter
  • By @the.crafty.reporter
  • By @the.crafty.reporter
  • By @sewcial.butterfly
  • By @sewcial.butterfly
  • By @sewcial.butterfly
  • By @ms.maggiemakes
  • By @ms.maggiemakes
  • By @ms.maggiemakes
  • By @carriedwithyou
  • By @carriedwithyou
  • By @carriedwithyou
  • By @rochelady
  • By @rochelady
  • By @rochelady

I hope you love all of this inspiration and can see all of the different ways to make the Spring Roll Pouch!

Hugs and Stitches!

Cristy

Summer Romper Style

This romper was made for Stylemaker Fabrics – summer release campaign with fabric gifted in exchange for my thoughts on sewing and for promotional photos. Please check out the blog post with my thoughts using the fabric, here. If you would like to use this fabulous Lemon Sateen, or check out all of the other lovely new fabrics, you can find them here .

I love working with Stylemaker Fabrics and their huge variety of substrates. So when Michelle reached out again, I just had to say, “yes.” She has a great eye and her curation is always solid if you want to follow trends or if you need some good basics. As a quilter, I also appreciate how Stylemaker also carries the fashion fabrics from all of my favorite independent surface designers. You can find my first collaboration with them when I make some cranberry colored Ginger Jeans and the cropped Sunday Everyday Sweater.

PATTERN

Since I was part of “Bottom-weight” week for the summer release, I always had either some fun trousers or some type of jumpsuit on my mind. So when I saw the fun Lemon Sateen, a light bulb went off in my head and I knew exactly what I would make.  I’ve been holding onto this McCall’s M7330 pattern for a minute (like over a year) and knew this pairing would be some lemonade!  I have a few jersey knit rompers and know a woven one would be a welcome addition to my wardrobe. They just make getting dressed SO easy. Rompers make a statement already and a bold lemon one will add the jolt of color my closet needs.

With warm weather finally arriving in Ohio and a girls trip planned in Florida, I picked View B for a more tailored romper with a button placket and zipper fly.  The pattern also has jumpsuit views that can also take this silhouette more to the safari-type of look. I opted for the cleaner finishes with my make. I made several changes to this pattern — especially after realizing I only had the XS-M version, but needed the medium AND the large templates. Whoops! My hips land me into large, but with very little time left before my vacation, I decided to just move forward using the medium top and bottoms with the following adjustments:

  • Made 1/2″ bicep adjustments to each sleeve – With summer tops, I always like extra ease around my arms with woven fabrics. You never know if you are stuck outside in 80-90* heat and are literally dying for some more air circulation.
  • Swapped out gathers around waist for pleats for the top and front bottoms – I like to highlight my waist and keep the silhouette clean. This also reduced bust all around the waistband.
  • Used only a 3/8″ seam allowance (instead of 5/8″) for bottoms – since I didn’t have the large template
  • Added a 5/8″ crotch adjustment to back only of bottoms – This is a common adjustment I make on bottoms since my hip measurement tends to fall two sizes larger than my waist and my volume carries towards the back and not spread out on the side saddles.
  • Added 1/4″ to top center back of bottoms – The extra volume on my backside tends to pull a
    “V” at the center back, so this is added in to level out the waistband
  • Added pleats to both sides of back bottoms – I sewed them completely as darts (instead of leaving as pleats) to keep the silhouette smooth
  • Converted the patch pocket to slash pockets – Again, this was to keep the lines clean and I also didn’t have enough fabric for a matching up the fabric design for patch pocket
  • Removed the waist tab and realigned the top to be aligned with zipper fly top-stitching – This is completely my own preference for a straight line from the top button placket going all the way down to the fly.

FABRIC

On top of bing incredibly cute and whimsical, this Lemon Sateen also has the benefit of some stretch! Yes, please! That means it can be used for more form-fitting garments and/or ones that will see more movement.  I can walk (even run) and sit with absolute ease in my romper.  There is also no worry about wedgies or camel toe when you can make your own garment.  The added touch of spandex also helps reduce wrinkles that appear more from 100% natural fiber content like cotton and linen. I went out to dinner with my friends in WARM Ft. Lauderdale, FL and was absolutely comfortable. We even went out for a little bit of dancing afterwards and yes, the fabric can handle some salsa!

Since the lemons have a one-way directional print, I would recommend ordering just a little more than needed for a project. I had just enough even after adding in the slash pockets, but wouldn’t have if I made an error in cutting.  This fabric is mid-weight IMO and would work in so many different garments. I used an 80/12 needle for this make. Anything larger could snag a thread and disrupt the print, but anything smaller wouldn’t get through the folds and bulk once you join seams.

Before heading out for dinner

Overall, I’m so happy with this make. I got lots of compliments on it from my friends…and even from the restaurant manager of our dinner location! There are so many great memories locked into this garment that I KNOW I’ll be wearing it all summer-long. Are you into rompers too?

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

Fabric was courtesy of Stylemaker Fabrics for their spring/summer 2022 campaign. There was no obligation to write a blog post, but you know I gotta share my pattern mods with you!

Navigator Passport and Vaccination Card Wallet – FREE Pattern

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Like so many of you, I’ve received my Covid vaccinations and am sitting on cards for me and my family. Knowing myself, I will NEVER remember where I last placed a card….unless I have a proper holder for everything. That was the lightbulb moment I had when I knew I needed to draft some kind of vaxx card holder. Here in the states, we are asked for vaccination cards to attend events, but are able to do so electronically with just pictures, which we carry in our phones. But I know when traveling abroad, other places may ask for the physical card.  So, I combined a basic card holder along with some extra pockets for an American sized passport and credit cards. You can then keep all of your important documentation together in the Navigator Wallet!

*This post is not a debate of the efficacy of the Covid vaccine. All are entitled to their own views and this pattern was drafted for those who have a vaccination card. Please respect my choice and those of others, as I respect your choices. All comments will be monitored.

For Lunar New Year, I wanted to do something special for all of my readers and social media followers. The wish of good health is always part of the new year blessings and it only makes sense to offer the Navigator Wallet as a FREE pattern to all of you! Our health has been the focal point of the past few years and I’m very hopeful that the year of the Tiger can get us past the pandemic and traveling much more.

Features

This is a simple wallet with features that are similar to others already out in the market, but the big difference is the enlarged window opening which is sufficient enough for your vaccination card. Between all the members of the family, we have two different sized cards, but the printing is pretty consistent. So whichever size you may have, this clear vinyl window should be able to accommodate your card. This window can also be used for saving parking slips, tickets to events, and maybe even work IDs that need to be scanned.

Other features include:

  • Bi-fold design
  • (2) Credit/Business card slots
  • (2) Slip Pockets for cash and/or Passport
  • Tab Closure with snap for security

Construction

On top of making something so functional like this wallet, I love using up scraps of my bag making materials. This is a great pattern that does just that! The main body of the wallet can be cut from just a leftover strip of fabric while the slip pockets can be made from even smaller scraps. The closure tab is made from the window cut-out, allowing it to create very little waste as well. This is both scrap busting and scrap minimizing!

To make the wallet, you will need a non-fraying substrate like cork, leather, vinyl, or a stiff suede. Anything thinner with a drape, like a lambskin or garment-grade material could be shifty and stretch with sewing, like this cobalt sample I made. I purchased it second-hand from a person who made kid moccasins and once I cut out the window, the frame didn’t hold its shape. I eventually worked on squaring it out, but I think that step took longer than making the entire wallet!

Download the PDF template below. Tape 1a and 1b together aligning sides and the gray circle to make the full wallet body. Cut out all pieces on the solid black lines.

Click to Download Navigator Wallet PDF Template

Materials Required along with measure and mark dimensions :

  • (1) 15″ x 5 1/2″ Main Fabric for the Body
  • (2) 3 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ Accent Fabric for the Slip Pockets
  • (1) 3 5/8” x 5 1/4″ Clear Vinyl for the Vaxx Card Window
  • (1) set of 12.5mm Snaps + setting tools
  • Fabric glue like Fabric-Tac

For full video instructions, click into the window below:

Optional Personalization

As I was working on samples of the Navigator Wallet, I pulled this gorgeous red cork from my stash and was inspired by the lucky red envelopes given out for Lunar New Year. These envelopes are stuffed with money from family to give you a good year and they are traditionally adorned with gold images and calligraphy. I used my Silhouette Cameo and some SVG files I purchased on Etsy to cut out gold heat transfer vinyl for my wallet. The images I bought are traditional motifs based on the ancient art of paper cutting and I found it a bit amusing that I could use my electronic cutting machine to replicate the look.

I’ve used heat transfer on other cork projects (think Monograms!) and I would recommend the following:

  • Cutting the protective plastic down around the image as much as possible – This keeps odd shapes from being pressed into your substrate. (I know because I’ve done it with faux leather before!)
  • Use the smallest iron you have. I have a travel iron and just try to use the tip on the vinyl
  • Use a pressing cloth so the iron doesn’t burn/melt the substrate
  • Lay project on a sleeve board or tailor’s clapper to push up the area you want to heat, but keep the rest of the project low and away from your iron

If you have a cutting machine, test out this new use for your heat transfer vinyl. It really allows you endless ways to make any project your own! I can’t believe how much my wallet looks like a Lunar New Year envelope!

I hope you enjoy this FREE gift to celebrate the year of the Tiger. Please feel free to share this on your social accounts and blogs as well. All I ask is for proper credit and to take a few minutes to learn about this deeply special holiday with a quick internet search. It is absolutely fascinating!

Happy New Year!

Cristy

This post may contain affiliate links. You can read about my full disclosures here.

Bias Skirt in Printed Rayon

I’ve been wanting to make a bias skirt for awhile now. The simple slip dress has made a comeback from the 90s and is not just a piece of lingerie any longer. The look is more modern layered with big oversized blazers and sweaters. Instead of heels, they are being paired with boots and sneakers for easy streetwear…I’m here for all of it! The bias cut of these dresses are great on any body and provide more fluidity and stretch in woven fabrics. I don’t think I would wear a slinky slip dress as much as a skirt and found the Sati Skirt.

Pattern

This is my very first time sewing a pattern from Russian based designer, Viki Sews. Since I bought the pattern based off a simple Google search (very late at night,) I didn’t realize that she sells her patterns by a SINGLE size and doesn’t include a range! I didn’t even realize it until I was ready to make the skirt and saw there was only one pattern drawing in the file. Of course, it was the wrong size, since I clicked directly through a Google ad….and had to contact the company through Etsy. It took a few days, but customer service was VERY kind and resent me the correct size even though it was completely my own fault for not reading through all of the details. (As an Etsy seller, I’m mad at myself for doing what so many customers do to me! #lessonlearned)

With bottoms, I span about 2 (sometimes 3) different sizes and like to see the drafting lines in order to make the appropriate adjustments for my body. So, I almost always stay away from companies that sell their patterns by a single size (Style Arc is another brand that does this.) Of course, these companies have fantastic patterns I would LOVE to make, but I’m not a formally trained pattern maker and don’t want to make my life harder than I have to! So, it wasn’t surprising to me that I fall into 2 sizes in Viki’s range. Since I already purchased the pattern, I asked for euro size 44 (even though I fell between 42-44.) It’s easier to take in fabric than to add fabric later 😉

The construction of the skirt was pretty simple. I basted the back darts and side seams for fit and did adjust the waist by pulling it in 3/8″ on each side seam (1.5″ total.) Many times, I have to readjust darts, but I think the bias cut helped to settle them smoothly on my back-side. The most difficult part was all in the cutting of the pattern. Although I have a pretty big cutting table, I made sure to cut on the floor to keep the fabric as flat and properly squared off as possible. This helped to keep the fabric design aligned and get a true 45* bias cut.

For the length, I do like how each size comes with 4 different options. Since I’m 5’3″, I chose the shortest version which brought me to a pretty good midi length. I’m sure all of you taller sewists can appreciate accommodations for being up to 6′ tall.

The only real change I made to the pattern was omitting 1 out of the 2 elastics for the waistband. Honestly, I don’t know why the instructions have you sew two together…maybe for more strength? But if you have a good quality waistband knit (that is soft against the skin,) you only need one.

As seen in the pictures, the band is sewn to the right side of the skirt and then folded to the inside where it’s hidden. I used my coverstitch machine, but this could easily be done with just a zig-zag stitch. I adjusted the length on the waistband and also sewed the short ends together on an angle to follow my waistline that goes out rather than just straight.

FABRIC

Speaking of firsts, this is also my first time using rayon from Mimi G for Riley Blake Fabrics. I know RB from quilting and know their woven cotton and jersey knits well. It’s nice that they have expanded out to fashion substrates. With a bias skirt, you want a nice opaque fabric since lining it would defeat a bias skirt’s flowy and body gliding nature. This rayon has a white base cloth with printing on top which definitely works! I purchased this from Melanated Fabrics, but you can always check out Etsy or Amazon for more.

You can check out the skirt’s movement below or on my Instagram here.

As you can see, despite the beginning hurdles, I LOVE my skirt now. The waist adjustments were simple enough that I would recommend this pattern, but I’m hesitant to try out any others from this company which would require more adjustments. The fabric is fantastic and I just love the feel and movement. I just need the weather to warm up a little bit so I can wear it out!

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

I personally bought all of the fabric and patterns for this project. This post may contain affiliate links. You can read about my Disclosures, here.

Review Fibre Mood Agatha Dress with Rayon

Over the summer, I was in a rush to make this Fibre Mood Agatha dress for the first wedding of 2021 and I completely forgot to write it up until now.  Let’s be honest though…most of my blogging was set aside while managing my family during the pandemic!  I was still sewing to save my mental state and am trying to catch up now while I have a little extra time 🙂

With the warmer weather approaching and vaccines coming out, I knew this was going to be one of the very first “big” social events for the family.  After a year of just sweatsuits and leggings, I really wanted to make something special and use up some fabric in my stash.  If there was any perspective gained from the pandemic, it was to use up all the “good” fabric and not let it sit on the shelves!

PATTERN

I’m not sure exactly where I saw this silhouette, but I wanted to make a flowy long dress with flutter sleeves for the midwest heat.  After a good bit of research at my typical spots – IG, Pinterest, and Google, I finally found the closest pattern to what I wanted.  And that pattern was the Fibre Mood Agatha…However, it was drafted for knit fabrics and of course, I wanted to use woven.  In the website description, FM says the pattern can be used for wovens, but I was pretty skeptical.  They mention that you “only” need a side zipper and I’m here to say I made a lot of extra adjustments to account for ZERO stretch.  Since I couldn’t find any other options, I still bought the pattern knowing I would have to muslin the bodice and be fully committed to a few days of fitting.

Although I measured a US 8, I cut a US 10 knowing that everything would have to be adjusted later on.  It gave me a base point to start without going too high and throwing off other fit (like the shoulders and sleeves.)  With the muslin, the armscyes are very generous, so I didn’t need to make the sleeves.  I just had to sew the bodice and waistbands together.  Even after cutting a larger size, I still needed 7/8″ added onto the front and back of the waistbands.  Then I slashed the back bodice in three spots (dividing the back evenly) to account for the new waistbands and created a new back bodice piece.

With the help of hashtags, I found Jessica R. (@mom.maker.model) who had made a few woven Agathas.  She had some good tips and mentioned she had to add about 2″ to the length of the bodice (towards the side of the bust) to make room for the ladies (I am a B-cup and you would have to add more for any size larger.)  Since the bust is gathered, I didn’t have to add more width…but just evenly spread the gathers along the new front waistband.  I had to play with the gathers and the added volume a little bit until I found the fit I liked.  The V-neck is pretty deep and I ended up overlapping the front bodice pieces by 3/4″ for a little extra modesty. With the added length of both the waistbands, I then widened the skirt opening to match.  *The pattern doesn’t mention stay-stitching the waist opening of the circle skirt, but I would HIGHLY recommend it so your skirt doesn’t stretch while making this dress.

For Jessica, she didn’t need to add a zipper, but I definitely had to in order to get the dress over my head! This was such a mental challenge for me because not only was I adding in an invisible zipper, but with the light colored fashion fabric I was using, I also had to account for a lining…and adding pockets!  I really set myself up for a challenge…eek!  I ended up sewing the invisible zipper to the fashion fabric and then hand-stitching the lining into place.

While adding in pockets is normally not a huge issue (but all designers should add them to all patterns anyways!) I, again, had to account for a slight sheerness of this fabric.  The pockets had to actually go behind the lining so they wouldn’t be seen through the front of the dress.  I know some of you are wondering why I didn’t use the lining as the pockets.  But with the slash style, I wanted to use the same fashion fabric to blend the pockets right into the dress whether my hands are using them or not.  To account for this interesting issue, I left openings in the side seams of my lining so the pockets could pop back.  I’ve never seen something like this in a pattern and was proud of my MacGyver sewing idea!

FABRIC

I had this Rifle Paper Co. Citrus Blossom rayon challis in my stash for a good year.  I’m normally not a yellow person, but these prints are always SO beautiful and I definitely needed the color in my wardrobe.  When this collection first came out, I bought enough fabric for a shirt or maybe a short dress….but then I came back to it just a month or so later and bought more.  I’m so glad I did because this circle skirt style uses a lot of fabric!

With rayon challis, it is a light and breathable fabric. I love it for the summer since it has a soft cool hand and drapes well. However, it can be slippery and pretty shifty when sewing.  So I use my fine pins and end up using twice as many as I would with a quilt cotton.  My machine is pretty hardworking, so I also have to switch down to a 70/10 needle when working with rayon.

As I mentioned earlier, I had to use a Bemberg rayon lining in the skirt to keep the dress from being see-through. I cut the lining the same shape as the skirt, but cut off an extra 2″ off the hem so it wouldn’t been seen as I wore the dress.  While I was at it, I also added a lining to the waistband (along with light-weight interfacing) to keep it more structured for a lean look.  Luckily, this was also in my stash and it’s definitely a good fabric to have around to line lighter fabrics.

Overall, this was probably one of my most laborious makes with the added steps of a muslin, adjusting for woven fabric, adding pockets and also adding a lining.  After the wedding and 6 additional months, I can still say that all of this work was WELL worth the effort and I have all of the adjustments ready for a future dress!  I’m so happy with the wearability of the FM Agatha.  While it’s light and flowy for warm weather, I love that my shoulders are covered for those shots of extreme air conditioning in the summer.  Keep a lookout for a new one in 2022!!!

 

Hugs and Stitches, friends!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my Disclosures here.  While I am a Fibre Mood ambassador, this pattern and the fabric was purchased by me and not part of any promotion.