Category: Tutorial

Abbey Hacks by Love You Sew

Abbey Convertible Backpack Hacks with Welt Zipper Cover + Button Stud Closure

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Abbey Hacks by Love You Sew title

Hacking patterns is just so much fun when you can add more personal details to a project. Today, I’m sharing what I did for the backpack I made for real-life Abbey (the bag’s namesake.)  This post includes a cover for the front zipper, button stud and leather accents, and where I’ve added rivets. The Abbey Convertible Backpack is the latest pattern I’ve published and you can read up more about here, as well as check out all of the incredible tester photos for inspiration.

My Abbey is one of my nieces with a such a kind heart and adventurous spirit.  She is incredibly intelligent and is now a physical therapist in Michigan.  She has always been a straight shooter and that’s why I love her and hope to catch her sometime this summer.  Abbey is quite the outdoors-person and goes backpacking on her own all the time.   This southwestern-insprired woven fabric reminds me of her and all the probable sunsets (and sunrises) she’s seen on her many trips.

Front Zipper Cover

With the bold stripes on this woven fabric, I thought the exposed welt zipper on the original sewing pattern broke up the fabric design too much.  I wanted the stripes to continue all around the bag to show off its beauty and not compete with it.  So, I made a simple cover by creating a tube which runs the length of the bag and is secured right above the zipper opening.

To make the cover, follow all of the steps to complete the welt zipper pocket on the original pattern found here and then:

  1. Cut (1) 12″ x 2 1/2″ of Main Fabric and (1) 12″ x 1″ of Woven Interfacing.  Fold the Cover in half length-wise with right sides together.  Place the long edge of the woven interfacing wrong side together against the fold. Fuse the interfacing per manufacturer’s instructions.
  2. Re-fold the Cover with RST and sew 1/4″ seam along the raw long edge creating a tube. Back-stitch well
  3. Use a safety pin and attach it within the seam allowance.  With the safety pin closed, push it through the tube.
  4. Carefully direct the safety pin through to the other side of the tube pulling the tube right side out.
  5. Press the tube flat with seam at the top.
  6. Line up the Cover with the Welt Zipper opening covering the top-stitching and extend that line all the way out to the sides of the Front Exterior.  Pin the Cover into place.  Carefully top-stitch the cover to the Front Exterior with a 1/16″ seam allowance using a zipper foot and moving the zipper pull out of the way, as needed.  Trim the sides of the cover to match the sides of the Front Exterior.  Sew the rest of the Abbey as instructed.

Rivet Accents

I LOVE adding rivets to my bags.  They give such a professional and polished look which really elevates any handmade accessory.  The best part is they are also functional — allowing me to secure parts (especially thick substrates) of the Abbey together which would otherwise have to be sewn.

Rivets were used in making the strap and also at many of the connection points with all the hardware connectors. You can see how I used two different sized caps to vary the look.  I use a hardware press to install most of my rivets, but when I need to get close up to the rings like here on the Handle Base, I’ll use manual setting tools like this set from Tandy Leather (aff link.)

Leather Closure Tab with Button Stud

As part of the cutting instructions of the Abbey Convertible Backpack, I also added in finished dimensions if you would like to use leather, vinyl, cork or suede accents, like I did with this bag.  I used leather with the Handle, Handle Base, lower D-Ring Connectors, Bottom and Closure Tab.  However, I did change up the Closure Tab with the addition of a Button Stud.

I used a 8mm brass screw-in Button Stud (aff link) in lieu of the magnetic snap to keep the bag closed.  It was attached it to the Exterior front by punching a hole for the screw (using the same placement as the magnetic snap) and adding a touch of glue inside the stud to hold.  It’s really that easy and a big reason why I love  to use them, just like with my free Kelly Waist Bag Pattern.

For the Closure Tab:

  • Cut (2) 1/2″ x 4 1/4″ pieces of leather and glued them wrong sides together. Cut an angle on one end 3/8″ down for just some visual interest.
  • Top-stitch 1/8″ all around the closure using a walking (or Teflon) foot and leather needle
  • For the button holes, use a 4mm hole punch to cut (2) holes –  1″ and 1 3/4″ from the longest end of the Closure Tab.  Add a 1/8″ vertical cut at the top of each opening.  This allows the Button Stud to fit through the hole, but not to fall out on it’s own with movement and wear.  TIP:  I would recommend adding the holes after the bag is fully assembled so you can check placement.

These are all simple hacks to really change up the look of the Abbey Convertible Backpack and to make it personal.  The leather accents help to add more sophistication to the look as well.  Who can tell this bag is even handmade?!?  I hope Abbey loves her new bag and continues to enjoys her outdoor treks!

Project Summary:

 

Are you digging the hacks to my bag patterns?   Let me know if there any you would like to see in the comments below.  I will try to make them happen!

 

Happy Sewing Friends,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links for which I may receive a small commission if you would make a purchase.  Any compensation goes directly to running this website and keeping it as ad-free as I can.  Thanks for your support!

Colleen Tote Bag - Add-On Pattern by Love You Sew

Colleen Tote Bag FREE Flap and Purse Feet Add-On Pattern

Colleen Tote Bag - Add-On Pattern by Love You Sew

I can’t believe a whole year has passed since I released the Colleen Tote Bag sewing pattern!  It’s such a great classic carry-all style for the beginner bag-maker and I’ve been so happy to see all the different versions all over social media with #ColleenToteBag.  With the simple clean lines, this bag comes together quickly and I’ve seen it become quite a popular gift!  Thank you to everyone who has shared their makes with me <3  You can find the Colleen Tote Bag pattern here.

Colleen Tote Bag - Add-On Pattern by Love You Sew

Since you know I love to hack patterns (both with bags and garments) to make uniquely mine,  it should be no surprise that I even hack my own patterns.  You can check out the posh “Shortie” version of the Colleen here with metal ring handles and leather accents.  This time, I added in a purse flap to help keep the contents secure, as well as, adding instructions for purse feet.

Colleen Tote Bag - Add-On Pattern by Love You Sew

I was recently asked to teach a Colleen Tote workshop with the American Sewing Guild – Cape Fear Chapter and they wanted some additional hardware added on to gain some new bag-making techniques.  I thought this flap would be such a great addition to the bag.  On top of learning how to install a turn-lock and purse feet, the guild also learned how to add special details like rivets to take their bags up to the next level.  It was my absolute pleasure to oblige and created the add-on instructions and pattern templates (which you can find at the end of this post.)

Colleen Tote Bag - Add-On Pattern by Love You Sew

While I was making this sample for the class, I rushed a bit and of course, paid the price for it.  (I wanted to bring this tote along to Jeni’s Strawberry Jam which was just the next day.)  Instead of using the purse feet washer to mark my holes, I accidentally grabbed the washer for magnetic snaps and thus, had my holes for the prongs that were too far apart.  Doh!  Luckily, I have a nice little stash of leather and cut out leather circles to use as exterior washers.  I glued them over the wrong holes and then went back to cut the right ones.  Now,  you would never know I made a mistake!  This process has definitely been used a few times to save my projects….maybe it can help some of your’s too.

Colleen Tote Bag - Add-On Pattern by Love You Sew

When I was in Austin, TX last year, I grabbed this Japanese canvas from the (now closed) Cloth Pocket.  It’s just the cutest fabric and I’m glad I saved it for this Colleen Tote project.  The pandas are just too cute! The Colleen is definitely a great bag to show off a print, both for small and large scale designs.  For the interior, I used a lightweight shirting from my stash which gives this bag picnic vibes.  The accents are made of Art Gallery Fabrics Textured Denim (aff link) which is nice and heavy — perfect for bag-making.

Colleen Tote Bag - Add-On Pattern by Love You Sew

||  Click here for >> Colleen Tote Add-On Turn Lock and Feet by Love You Sew  ||

 

Project Summary:

I hope you enjoy the FREE add-ons with your Colleen Tote Bag!

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

 

Please note this post may contain affiliate links for which I may receive a small compensation if you would make a purchase.  This helps keep my website live and ad-free.  Thank you for your support.

 

 

Make the Coziest Halifax Hoodie + Kangaroo Pocket Hack for View E

After the holidays, January is such a drag. Then, throw in the Polar Vortex that hit the Midwest this week and it’s just downright depressing.  We can’t go anywhere, school had been cancelled two-days in a row, I can’t send the kids to go out and play….plus, it’s just so friggin’ COLD! I am thankful, however, to have made this Halifax Hoodie the other week. The plush softness of this fabric combined with a comfy cozy sweatshirt design is keeping me pretty warm through this cold spell.

FABRIC:

I picked up this heavyweight bamboo/cotton sweatshirting in Heretic from Imagine Gnats.  Right now, the shop carries a number of different colors of this fabric, as well as matching ribbing!  When I bought my fabric, they were sold out of the ribbing (which was a bummer,) but the 25% four-way stretch in this sweatshirting is more than enough for the cuffs and waistband.  I love how soft the fleeced inside of this fabric is from the bamboo…even after multiple washings.

PATTERN:

The Halifax Hoodie by Hey June Handmade is a very popular pattern with it’s classic casual design and multiple features.  This is a great pattern for knits and allows for so many different styles and combinations….whether you want a full zip-up hoodie or just a crew-neck sweatshirt.

I opted for View E with the angled side seams this awesome funnel neck.  I’m a big fan of Lululemon athleisure-wear and they tend to have higher necks in many of their jackets and tops.  I love this feature since I’m always cold and can’t say no to a built-in scarf 😉 I even raised the funned neck an additional 1.5″ on the fold (3″ overall,) to add even more of the cozy factor.  The thickness of the sweatshirting helps the funnel neck stand up and provide volume. If you are using a regular weight knit, you may end up with more of a cowl look instead.

KANGAROO POCKET HACK:

While the other views of the Halifax had pockets, View E did not.  When I was planning this too, I just wanted the extended neck, but I happened to be wearing a regular crewneck sweatshirt while cutting out the pattern pieces.  I realized how many times I was reaching for my stomach to warm up my hands, just like when I wear my hoodies.  I decided I definitely needed a kangaroo pocket and you can follow how I made one below.

1. With the angled side seams. I wanted to make sure the pocket followed the same sharp lines and thus, didn’t use the pocket pattern included (which has rounded openings for the hands.) I used a scrap piece of knit fabric to create a new pocket.  The scrap was laid down and I played with the sizing by folding the scrap until it looked right.  I used my own hands to make sure the opening was big enough for me to easily access the pockets.  Then I trimmed up the scrap to match the lines of the front sweatshirt hem and side seams.

2. Folding the new template in half, transfer the design to my fabric and added 1/2″ seam allowance at the top and side hand openings.

3. Open up the pocket and finish the top and side hand openings by serging or by using a zig-zag stitch.

4. Fold under the side pocket openings by 1/2″ and top-stitch.  I stitched at 1/8″ and at 1/4″.

5. Press under the top of the pocket by 1/2″.  Add some Wonder Tape along the seam allowance and remove the backing.  Press the pocket into place centered on the front to prevent the pocket from shifting.

6. On the wrong side of the front, fuse small scrap pieces of interface at the top corners of the pocket.  You can feel the corners through the fabric.

7.  With the right side of the front facing up, flip up the pocket and sew along the top of the pocket. Backstitch well at the beginning and end

8. Flip the pocket back down and baste the sides and bottom of the pocket to the front.  After I took these pictures, I went an extra step and tacked down the top corners of the pockets for extra strength.

SIZING

I’m a 36″ bust, 40.5″ around the hips and made a straight medium. Being 5’3″, I usually have to make a sleeve length adjustment, but left it all the same to keep the slouch and ease. I love this generous fit and the stretch in this fabric allows for great movement. I probably won’t make any adjustments when I make my next Halifax.

I hope you are all staying warm or have fled to warmer climates! In the meantime, I hope you checkout the Halifax Hoodie and this tutorial to add a pocket to View E.

 

Happy cold-weather sewing!

Cristy

Make Welt Zipper Pockets with the Skye Joggers

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Skye joggers by Love You Sew

When joggers hit the market a few years ago. I was definitely into the look. They had the feel of my old Champion sweats from back in the day. (You know, the ones with the elastic ankle and all!) However, it seemed that the trend was not really feeling me. I tried on a few RTW pairs and have even sewn a few patterns. But, I didn’t like how they clung to my thighs and calves. I mean if I want leggings, I’ll just wear leggings….and that’s what I did.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Since then, I’ve seen so many more joggers on the street and figured out I was into the more menswear style – which are a little looser and fit that ol’ sweatpant nostalgia, I remember. Fortunately, I’ve made the Skye Joggers by Blank Slate Patterns before and knew exactly the changes I wanted to make to get my perfect pants.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Fabric

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

When I made my very first Skye Joggers, I knew they were going to be a wearable muslin. So, I used whatever knit I had on-hand…which was a lightweight modal (definitely not on the recommended fabrics list.) They stretch out so much around the knees that I just wear them at home.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew
I tried to push the ankles up to hide the knees…Ha!

As with any muslin, lessons are learned. I knew I wanted a heavier knit and “athletic” fabric that looked like the RTW versions on my Pinterest board here. Either a ponte or scuba would work and I decided on ponte. I’ve worked with it before like on this Denver Tunic and love the weight and recovery. I grabbed this great dark grey Ponte de Roma Viscose Blend from Imagine Gnats awhile ago and the Arietta Navy Ponte from Craft South while on a trip. But you can still grab some of the Arietta from Etsy here.

Sizing

Based on the muslin, I wanted just a bit more ease and sized up a step. I coach sports for my boys and want a bit more movement (aka air circulation) with my joggers. One can only wear leggings for so long!

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Additionally, I widened the knee and calves by drawing a straight line front the shorten/lengthen line all the way down to the ankle. I have heavy calves (and don’t fit into most boots as a result,) but I know I can adjust when I sew. I almost always have to make this adjustment on pants patterns, but left it pretty simple since I was working with this heavy ponte.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

These are another pair of Skye Joggers I made with the same sizing adjustments. You can see the extra ease allover, and especially in the knees and calves where the fabric is not pulled.

I happen to make these before the #SewFancyPants challenge and felt like they were a bit too safe and boring (perfect for coaching basketball though!)

Welt Pocket Tutorial

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

With the new year and planning out my projects, these were the only additional pants on my docket. But when the #SewFancyPants challenge came across my Instagram, I knew I wanted to participate somehow. I decided to stick to my plans since I already had all of my fabric. With the ease I added into my joggers, they were definitely looking more like the men’s versions I’ve seen (and absolutely love!) I figured I would go all the way and make these even more masculine by hacking the slash pockets to make some pretty dope welt zipper ones.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

To make welt pockets, you first have to bring up the lines of the front pant pattern’s pocket area to match the side seam and waistline. To do this, lay the pocket pattern right on top of the front leg (as shown) and cut out the fabric following your new combined pattern.

With this change, you will no longer need the front facing pattern piece and instead, will need four of the pockets. To make things much easier on myself (and after some tough lessons learned before,) I used a quilt cotton to make the welt pocket opening. This allows for more stability and less bulk…especially when working with a heavy knit. For the back of the pockets, I then went back to the ponte.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

1. For the zipper opening, I used a 7″ sport style nylon zipper like this one. The pockets are very generous with the Skyes and I wanted to make sure my hands and phone could fit through easily. (No one likes those little zip pockets that can only fit a tube of Chapstick!) For the placement, I literally clipped the pocket pattern to pants I was already wearing to see where my hand naturally would go. I made sure to place it far enough down to account for seam allowance. Then I drew and cut out a 7″ x 1/2″ rectangle exactly where I wanted the zipper to go.

2. On the wrong side of the front pant leg, I marked the zipper box using the pocket pattern and then fused a 8″ x 1″ pieces of knit interfacing overtop of the zipper markings.

3. With right sides facing together, lay the front pocket lining against the front pant. Pin in place. Mark the zipper opening to the wrong side of the pocket lining and stitch around the entire rectangle. Draw a line down the center of the rectangle (as shown) leaving 1/2″ at the beginning and end between the line and the sewn box. Draw two V’s to connect each corner to the center line (as shown.)

4. Cut along the red lines and use small scissors to get as close into the corners as possible without cutting any threads.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

5. Remove pins. Take the pocket and push it all through the zipper opening and finger-press the seams down.

6. Press the inside of the zipper opening while rolling a bit of the ponte inward.

7. Press the outside of the zipper opening making sure you don’t see the lining.

8. Using some Wonder Tape (or a fine line of washable fabric glue,) line the zipper opening as shown on the pocket. Remove the backing from the tape.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

9. With right side of the pant up, center the zipper opening over the zipper. Make sure the zipper opens downward. Finger press around the zipper opening to attach the zipper to the pocket. Use extra pins as needed. Top-stitch 1/8″ around the zipper opening through the pant front, pocket and zipper.

10. Flip joggers to the wrong side to make sure you got through all the layers. Trim threads

11. Line up the back of the pocket lining to the front lining and pin only the pockets together. At this point, I decided to curve the pockets since I was going to serge them together. This would eliminate the extra bulk a corner would give me. I used a ruler to draw the arc, but you could also use a bowl.

12. Since I was using a serger, I measured in my 1/2″ seam allowance to give me a guide as I ran the pocket through my machine. Serge or sew the pocket linings together, making sure to push back the pant front.

Take a step back and check out the off-the-rack look of that zipper!

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

Piping

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

If I was gonna add welt pockets with some sporty zippers, I had to keep going and add some contrast piping to these Skyes 😉 Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any black stretch piping under 10 yds that would also deliver within a week. (Why is everything I need overseas???) I could find every other color, except for basic black – go figure. So, instead I used woven bias tape piping straight out of the package like this one. The piping balances out all of the black accents and makes these look so professional….but I did have some help…

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

With regular piping, I could use my zipper foot to attach it with a straight stitch, but I wanted a stretch stitch given the ponte. Plus, all of these layers definitely needed to be overlocked. I didn’t have the right foot with any of my machines to do a zig-zag or overlooking stitch with piping, so I got this new foot for my Juki Serger. As seen above, my regular foot is to the left and the piping foot is to the right. There is a channel that allows the piping to move through and now I can serge everything!

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

This piping foot was amazing! It allowed for a tight and even application. I’ve sewn piping on garments before like these Laure dresses, but sometimes I have to go in to sew twice for an even seam. This foot was flawless. Guess you’ll be seeing more piping from me!

My Real Inspo

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

I didn’t even realize it until my son helped me with taking pictures, but he pretty much has the same jogger that I was trying to create. I must’ve been channeling his pants within my subconscious this whole time! Now we can “twin” in our gear together.

I hope you enjoy the welt pocket tutorial! Please let me know if you have any questions or additional thoughts in the Comments section below.

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

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Claire Fold-over Clutch :: Pattern Release

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The Claire Fold-over Clutch with cross-body strap is my very first bag pattern release.  ‘Talk about  all the feelings right now!  There is so much to say about this bag, both in it’s functionality and how it just came to be.  If you can bear with me, I’ll dive into both 🙂

Many of you know that I’ve been selling on Etsy for awhile and broke out into local Indie Craft shows just a few years ago.  With the shows, I started to sell more bags to complement my baby accessories and noticed how my wristlets and fold-over clutches were selling over my larger bags.  To differentiate myself from other bag-makers, I had to add some features and finishes to elevate my product…which in turn, became the Claire.

The following are those key features:

  • Back Pocket – I knew I had to make more of these bags and then a friend came to visit during my holiday sale season.  She had a similar fold-over style bag, but with a front pocket for her phone.  When she reached down and had that immediate accessibility to her phone, the light bulbs were going off.  It seems like we’re all glued to our phones and they just keep getting bigger and bigger…so our back pant pockets are no longer enough.  Since my friend’s bag was by a national manufacturer, there was no easy way I could replicate the front pocket style, but that didn’t mean I couldn’t make a back pocket!

  • Cross-body Strap – I look to my nieces and popular brands for inspiration and I continually see the long straps for the on-the-go millennial and of course, us  busy moms too!  I wanted to make sure it was adjustable and the 60″ strap works for many different body types and all the different occasions in our lives.

  • Bag to Clutch Versatility – As a clutch, the fold-over style is so cute and I didn’t want hanging side “ears” to get in the way of that classic silhouette.  So the D-rings are set in the back of the bag.

  • Modern and Sleek look – The faux leather panel adds the extra bit of class and style to this bag.  It immediately heightens the looks and your friends will never think you made this bag.

  • Easy to Sew – By keeping the front panel for your accent substrates with either faux leather, cork, or vinyl, you are sewing through the fabric and one layer of the accent.  In other patterns, you can be sewing through 4 layers in addition to the fabric and interfacings.  Not all domestic machines can handle that and I want as many sewists with all different types of machines to be able to make this bag.

  • Interfacing  – I’ve made probably 30 of these bags already…so I’ve played with numerous interfacing combinations.  You want enough structure in the bag, but not too much that it will not fold-over properly.  And most people are like me, we like to use different fabrics and I’ve tried to take the guessing game out when you do decide to switch up.  The interfacing cuts are calculated so you have the strength and structure without having to sew through all of the extra bulk. I’m still looking out for all of my novice sewists 🙂

If you would like to make your own Claire Fold-over Clutch, you can find the pattern in my Etsy and/or my Craftsy shops.

Don’t forget to share your makes on Instagram with #clairefoldoverclutch and #loveyousewpatterns. (Hashtags are the only way I can see your makes if you have a private account!)  I love seeing all of the different versions!

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy