Category: Tips

Introducing The Tiny Sophia Bag

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We are in the thick of the holiday season and I thought I did some pretty good seasonal planning.  I made gifts for my nieces and nephew early since I went to visit them in November and even got my fancy holiday dress finished by my husband’s birthday a few weeks ago.  But then I shared my Tiny Sophia Bag with all of you on Instagram and my feed (DMs too!) filled up with requests for this pattern.  You caught me in a moment of weakness because I said, “Sure, why not?!  This is probably the time when you would like this pattern the most!”  So why not add another “thing” to the list…famous last words. Lol!

You can purchase the Tiny Sophia Bag here.

If you have been following my stories on IG, I shared these itty bitty purses by Jaquemus which I’ve been seeing all over the fashion reports.  Although completely useless as an actual purse (and WAY too expensive *eyeroll*) I still wanted one…but of course, in my own DIY way!  Spoiler alert – my way is MUCH more cost effective.

Over the summer, I toyed around with some paper templates to make a tiny bag for fun, but nothing really came out of it.  Then a visit back east to see my family made me really notice the wireless ear pods my brother was wearing.  Shortly after that, Lizzo came out on the red carpet with a tiny Valentino bag!  Combine these events and it made me wonder if the pods had a carrying case…aaaand if that case could also be a purse!

Namesake

As I was developing this pattern and making all of the prototypes, I knew this bag would be named after my niece, Sophia.  (All of my bag patterns are named after one of my nieces.)  Miss Sophia is a petite lil’ lady and the absolute CUTEST…just like this bag!  She is always game for a little fun and adventure, which makes her a great travel companion.  Since her dad was also part of the inspiration, it’s only fitting that this bag is named after her.

View B

Features

I know there are a ton of aftermarket pod cases out there and I thought a leather one would be chic and beautiful.  After a few hours (with my husband and boys at basketball practice,) I was able to draft a headphone case AND a bag by switching up the options.  This is no-sew pattern with two different views and the features can certainly be mixed and matched!

  • View A  “Mini Purse” – This has a strap on the top flap with a D-ring on the back and a snap closure.
  • View B “Accessory Case” – This has a bottom slot opening for a charger and the D-ring is set on the side.  A button stud is used as the closure.

View A

Hardware

The Tiny Sophia Bag requires rivet and snap or button stud installation.  This is assumed in the pattern (and I promise I will add more posts about how I install.)  I want to let you know my favorite suppliers:

  • Rivets:  For a long time, I set these just using just a hammer and anvil.  You can find these tools  in my shop, here.  Emmaline Bags carries a wide variety of sixes in different finishes. (Pictured above are the “small” rivets in Antique brass.)
  • Snaps: I’m a big fan of double-cap spring snaps from Gold Star Tool.  These are the same ones I used for my Kelly Anorak which you can find here. (On the cover photo, I have a size 20 ligne brass snap.)
  • Button Studs (screw on): These are THE best, since there are no special setting tools needed…just a screwdriver.  I grab most of mine from Amazon and I like the Tandy ones (when I’m in a pinch for timing since there is a store nearby.)  I think the 6mm/7mm head ones are a good proportion for this small bag.  (The 8mm head studs are used in my Kelly Waist Bag pattern)

New SVG Files

A big addition to this pattern release is the inclusion of SVG (scalable vector graphic) files which you can use with most electronic cutting machines.  I’ve always imported images and traced my own files, but have never created ones from Illustrator before.  So, I was pleasantly surprised to see how this pattern cut on my machine!  I have an old Silhouette Cameo with a straight knife and the cork cut so well on setting #7.  It did not like leather though…I’m hoping the rotary blades do much better.  There are three files for the different views and an extra one to combine all of the features together.  Please let me know what you think about this new feature!

Cutting by Hand

For those who don’t have a cutting machine, please know that I made all of these Tiny Sophia Bags by hand.  After making lots of leather bags and over a dozen of these minis, here are a few tips and tricks that will help you though.

  • I LOVE this heavy duty multi-blade craft knife set by Fiskars.  The different blades are great depending on the type of cut you need to make…my fave is the 1/2″ straight edge one.
  • The pattern essentially looks like a cross, so the edges are right angles.  If you match up the sides with a ruler, you’ll have a smoother (and more accurate) cut.
  • Use a metal ruler with a craft knife for the straight edges.
  • For thicker leather/suede, you might want to use a box cutter for a stronger blade and press down on the ruler so it doesn’t drag.
  • Speaking of blades, remember to use a new one that’s nice and sharp for clean cuts.
  • With the curves, try to find household objects like bowls that match to balance your knife against.
  • For the back D-Ring opening, one of my testers said a button-hole cutter like this one is great for cutting the edges.

Customize

There are so many different ways to customize your Tiny Sophia Bag.  Luckily, I have a nice stash of leather scraps from thrifting and from friends.  You can use leather, suede, faux leather, and even cork!  Based on the thickness of your substrate, you may have to adjust the position of the holes which is also covered in the the pattern 😉

Check out #TheTinySophiaBag on social media to see all of the different versions.  I like the extra stitching around the edges to make the bag look more polished (don’t forget to use that leather needle and teflon or walking foot!)  Many of my testers used decorative hardware too.  I can’t wait to see what you do!

If you are ready for the cutest little purse, you can grab the Tiny Sophia Bag pattern, here.  Use it to carry your trinkets, coins, and all the smartphone accessories.  One of my testers mad bags for her daughters’ dolls!  I’m adding one of these on my Christmas tree and will use it later to hang off my purse for my own headphones.

How would you use your Tiny Sophia Bag?

 

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my Disclosure, here.

Colleen Tote Bag Gemology Tour

Gemology Blog Tour with the Colleen Tote

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Today is my day on the Gemology Blog Tour supporting my friend, Andrea Tsang Jackson and her new quilting book, Patchwork Lab – Gemology. I had the absolute pleasure of meeting Andrea earlier this year at QuiltCon – Nashville after following her on Instagram with her amazing quilt art for so long.  We met over coffee and had SUCH a great conversation about building businesses in the fiber arts world and also being immigrants in North America.  Our stories are very similar and one of the reasons why I was thrilled when she asked me to be a part of this tour!!!

Colleen Tote Bag Gemology Tour

This new Patchwork Lab – Gemology book is absolutely beautiful and jam-packed with designs featuring nine different gem shapes which you can adjust into four different sizes ranging from a 6″ to a 24″ square block. There are additional instructions to make 5 quilts and a sweet little coin purse. The great thing about the book is that it is not just another quilting book. There is SO much additional information about how light hits the facets producing different colors and info about birthstones themselves.  It really gives you extra appreciation of the blocks as you construct them.

I knew after seeing the book, I would use the  6″ block for the exterior of my Colleen Tote Bag pattern.  When I first designed this bag, the quilter in me wanted enough open space on the exterior to eventually use quilt blocks to add some fun flair to the outside.  I’m so glad I finally got a chance to make this happen with the Cushion cut pattern.

Fabric

There are great fabric suggestions in the book for many of the birthstones, but I decided to use my own stash and make up my own gem. The Swatch Chart reference sheet is definitely a must IMO. It helped me sort out my fabrics and was a great visual reference as I was piecing the block together.

I really wanted the gem to pop on a bag so I used the following in the magenta family: (aff links)

For the rest of the bag, I used:

To Make the Side Panel with Gem Block

With this bag, I knew I wanted the exterior to be quilted for the texture and also to help secure the block to the interfacing. When doing this for a bag, it is always important to cut the fabric larger than what is needed, quilt it, THEN come back and cut it to size. Quilting will always shrink down a block and can become pretty significant difference if you are using more lofty batting or interfacing.

Since the finished panel would be 20 1/2″ x 10″, I added 3″ wide borders to the top and bottom (referred to as the “sides” in the book) and then 12 1/2″ x 7″ to the sides.  Instead of using fusible fleece as the interfacing, I swapped it out with Pellon 988 Sew-in Fleece.

I used matching Aurifil 2535 to stitch-in-the-ditch around the gem and then on all the intersecting seams that ran completely across the the pattern.  For the background, I used Aurifil 2615 to sew 1″ blocks at a 45* angle, stopping when I hit the gem. The nice part about quilting a bag panel is that you can leave the thread tails and just tie them off without having to bury any of them!

To cut the panel and create equal spacing above and below the block, you find the center horizontally and cut 4 3/4″ below the line and then 5 1/4″ above the line. The measurements are not equal to account for the different seam allowances as written in the Colleen Tote pattern.

Other Modifications

Every time I make a pattern (whether my own or someone else’s) I can’t help but add some different features so each one is unique.  I believe that every bag has it’s own personality and calls out for different features. I made the following changes to this Colleen:

  • Extended the key fob to 16″ in total length
  • Added a interior D-ring
  • Added a magnetic snap to the interior band
  • Pieced the line with some of the Sangria Compass to bring some of the Gem colors to the interior
  • Added Purse Feet following the add-on instructions here.
  • Broke up the gray a little more on the exterior with some accent tabs and rivets.

I did this by using the scraps I cut out of the bottom accent fabric.  You will need (2) 3 1/2 x 1″ strips.  Fold each long side to the center creating a single-fold tape and top-stitch 1/16″ along each side.  Fold down each short end by 3/4″ with wrong sides together.

The trick to adding these tabs over the top of the bag is to fold the tab and cut those holes first.  Then place it over the edge of the bag and mark it just to the left of the side seam and cut the hole in the bag.  By moving the hole you won’t cut into the side seam but it will appear that the tab is centered from far away!  Add the rivet and now you have a cute tab that makes this look more high-end.

Please make sure you follow Andrea @3rdstoryworshop to keep up with the rest of the Gemology Blog Tour.  You can find her blog and shop her book here.

Tomorrow, Rebecca Makas is up with her Gemology Project.  Click to find her here.

I hope you enjoyed the new spin on the Colleen Tote Bag and all of the gemstone inspiration from Patchwork Lab – Gemology!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post is in collaboration with Andrea Tsang Jackson for which I received a complimentary copy of her book.  //  This post may also contain affiliate links and you can read all the details in my Disclosures here.

Create Card Slots in the Kelly Waist Bag

When wearing a waist (belt, bum, fanny pack) bag, space is incredibly limited. There is already a nice built-in slip pocket to the Kelly Waist Bag (a FREE pattern you can find here.) But I thought I could kick it up a notch and add some card pockets — perfect for just that ID and credit card for a night out. The smaller slots keeps your cards more secure, yet easily accessible.

Make the Card Pockets

This is a very quick and simple add-on to the pockets. You will need the pattern which you can find here, plus an additional 6″ x 2 1/2″” piece of leather which I’ll refer to as the Card Pockets.

With the 6″ x 3″ Card Pocket, mark a line down the center with right side facing up. Take the Front Pocket piece and lay it right side up and then lay the Card Pockets with right side facing up aligning the bottom edge and corners. Clip into place.

Sew on top of the Card Pockets on the marking attaching the Card Pockets to the Front Pocket and also dividing it into two.

Continue to Step #6 to finish assembling the rest of the pocket.

Project Summary

I hope you enjoyed this simple tutorial to add card pockets to your Kelly Waist Bag!  You now have an extra layer of storage while being hands-free.  Head to the Pattern Resources page for all Love You Sew pattern hacks!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links which helps keep this website going.  You can read all the info regarding these links in my Disclosures.

Emma Stadium Bag by Love You Sew

Tips and Tricks – Sewing with Clear Vinyl

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Expanding your sewing repertoire is always so exciting, but there can also be some challenges along the way. As I wrote the Emma Stadium Bag, I included some tips with construction specific to my pattern, but thought you might appreciate more general guidance when sewing with clear or other see-through vinyl!

First, let’s talk about vinyl. This term is used for a lot of different flexible plastic substrates, but I am referring to sewable 100% PVC (polyvinyl chloride,) which is generally polished on one or both sides and you can see through it. Vinyl is a tough and durable substrate that can be used to provide moisture and/or humidity protection. This type of vinyl is available it many different colors and even thicknesses.

20 gauge (above) vs 12 gauge (below)

Vinyl is measured by gauge number. This refers to the thickness of the vinyl sheet. Most big box craft stores carry from 8-20 gauge and hardware stores can carry even thicker products. But for our sewing purposes, I think 8-20 gauge is within our wheelhouse. The 8 gauge is the thinnest at 0.008″ which is the most flexible and the easiest to sew. I think this is a great size if you are using this for a window in a pouch or organizer project. I wouldn’t recommend this for the body of a bag or pouch because it would be able to hold it’s shape well (unless you are going for the slouchy look!) On the opposite end, the 20 gauge is thickest at 0.020″ and is more rigid, but still flexible. I would recommend this thickness for projects which you want to keep the shape intact, like a tote or pouch. However, not all domestic sewing machines will be able to handle the thickness. My semi-industrial Juki 2010Q can handle this after some tension adjustments, but I think 12 gauge is the best bet to start for most machines IMO. Please test the gauges and see what you like best!

Let’s start with vinyl prep and handling. The following are a few tips to get you started:

  • Do NOT use your Favorite Fabric Scissors – Use your “paper” or “all-purpose” scissors to cut through the vinyl because it could dull your fabric ones – especially if you are using a higher gauge. I have an old rotary cutter marked for all-purpose use. Generally, when my fabric rotary blade gets dull, I move it over to the “all-purpose” Fiskars cutter and use that on these special projects and when I’m trimming PDF paper patterns.
  • Use Clips to Hold Vinyl Together – Whether you like to use Clover Clips or binder clips, these all do the same job. They hold vinyl together without leaving a permanent hole like a sewing pin would. I’ve also heard of others using paper clips and even bobby pins too.
  • Do NOT Directly Iron onto Vinyl – This will melt and leave permanent marks on the plastic. If you do have deep creases that you would like smoothed out, you can hover the iron above the vinyl or use a pressing cloth with light and quick presses. A heat gun or a hair-dryer (on low setting) can also help. Make sure you don’t have multiple layers of vinyl directly touching each other as you use heat or they can melt together.

Now, let’s get into sewing with vinyl! Below are tips from my own experience. Please let me and other readers know if you have any additional tips of your own in the comments section below. I would love to read them!!!

Left to Right: Teflon Foot, Walking Foot and Zipper Foot (with washi tape)
  • Use a Teflon Foot (preferred) or a Walking Foot – Vinyl is notorious for it’s “stickiness” when rubbed against a metal presser foot. A smooth Teflon foot doesn’t create the same friction as a metal one would and allows the vinyl to pass through the feed dogs. I prefer this foot for it’s slim profile and the ability to maneuver around more than the clunky Walking Foot. However, the Walking Foot does do a great job with the extra set of feed dogs to help shift the vinyl through. Other machines may have leather/vinyl specific feet as well with rollers. I don’t have these with my Juki and can’t speak to them specifically. Relieving presser foot pressure (if available on your machine) will also help reduce friction.
  • Grab some Washi Tape – If you don’t have any of the feet mentioned above, you can try to use washi tape (available at most craft stores) and adhere it to the bottom of your regular foot. I use this method with my zipper foot (pictured above) since I rarely have the need for a Teflon one. I will caution that you do need a higher quality tape where the sticky side remains where it’s suppose to and doesn’t transfer to the non-sticky side. $1 bin tapes are usually like this and if you have any tackiness on the right side of the tape, it pretty much negates it’s use.
  • Reduce friction on your Sewing Machine Bed – Some vinyls are stickier than others when moving across the painted table of your sewing machine. (It glides over smoothly on the bare metal plate.) You should test how the vinyl glides against your machine before starting. If there is quite a bit of sticking, I recommend detaching the extended table and/or laying down several pieces of washi tape on top of it. This will allow the vinyl to glide a bit more. You may also have to lift the vinyl as you sew to avoid contact with your machine, working a few inches at a time.
  • Use Regular/Sew-All Polyester Thread – You want a nice strong thread with the vinyl, but you don’t want anything that is too thick because it will create more rubbing. This is the same if sewing with faux or real leather. There is more friction when you use a thicker thread and although you can also switch to a larger needle, sometimes you just can’t get a needle large enough and will end up with skipped stitches.
  • ALWAYS use a Brand New Sharp Needle – Since you are puncturing plastic, a brand new needle is essential. If it is dull, this can effect timing and can lead to skipped stitches.
  • Practice sewing on scraps – Vinyl will leave permanent holes, so it’s important to get your tension and stitch-length right before sewing. As you increase thickness, you may also have to increase your stitch-length to compensate.

As for the care of vinyl, it is always a good idea to keep any type of it away from prolonged sun exposure. This will keep your vinyl the same color as purchased and keeps it malleable. You can use a damp cloth to wipe away messes.

Now that you have the tips and tricks down, are you ready to sew with vinyl? All of the clear vinyl bags in these images are 12 gauge clear from JoAnn Fabrics (aff link.) If you stop by the store, you can ask for swatch samples in the other gauges. You can also order clear vinyl from Fabric.com (aff link) which ships to many countries. If you are into some of the specialty vinyls, I LOVE Sew Hungry Hippie’s shop (aff link.) This is where I bought the rainbow vinyl in the pictures above and I’ve been eyeing up all the glitter offerings.

You can grab the Emma Stadium Bag digital pattern here for your first clear vinyl project 😉

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links. You can read my full disclosure here.

Derby Dress by Love You Sew

Derby Dress: Maxi Hack

Derby Dress Maxi Hack by Love You Sew

I was so excited when D&H Fabrics approached me to collaborate with their exclusive fabric collection with Katie Kortman.  I was asked to make something using one of the three available prints and I knew I would have to make a statement maxi dress using the Dash fabric with the Derby Dress pattern by Christine Haynes.  Katie’s designs are always so colorful and dramatic.  I wanted to make a garment that’s also fun, bold, yet approachable – like the designer, herself!

The Derby Dress (aff link) pattern has been in my library for awhile now.  I’m a sucker for the classic feminine styles which Christine has in her patterns.  I made the knee-length version a few years ago with a rayon challis and it’s still on rotation in my closet.  So I knew a full maxi version would get the same wear…if not more!

Fabric

After checking out the available prints at D&H Fabrics, I fell in love with the vibrant pink and red Dash.  There was just something about these analogous colors that pulled me in.  I admit my garment fabric game is a bit neutral (aka boring) so it felt good to step out of my comfort zone a bit…especially for summer!  If you follow Katie on IG, you know she has her own personal movement to get more of us sewists to use fun color combos.  I SO appreciate the extra fun inspiration and color push 😉

This gorgeous print is made of a 56″ wide lightweight rayon poplin which is incredibly soft with a soft hand and beautiful drape. The tight poplin weave makes the fabric easier to handle than a rayon challis which is much more slippery. With this more delicate fabric, I like to use a smaller universal needle sized 75/11 or 70/10.

The fabric design is printed directly on a white basecloth and washes very well. Most of these pictures were taken after three washes and yes, even with delicate tumble-dry.  (I wash my handmade garments along with my RTW.)  The colors remain saturated and I even sweat through this for hours in 90* heat.

Pattern & Modifications

As I mentioned above, I’ve made this Derby Dress by Christine Haynes before and love the flirty ruffle feature — plus it has pockets!  I actually use this pocket pattern as my go-to for any dresses which need an in-seam pocket.  It’s just a nice shape and perfect size for my hands.  I’ve used these pockets on my Sylvie seen here, and my Alix dress found here.

The front of the Derby is drafted with 3 separate panels for princess seams and the back has 4 panels for additional shaping.  This is great for a solid fabric or a busy print, but I didn’t want to disrupt the dashes in this fabric design.  I definitely did not have enough fabric for all of the pattern matching either…nor the time! So, I used a RTW maxi dress from Target (aff link) I have to work out the width and length of the dress.

I laid the RTW dress over the fabric on the fold and used the facing of the Derby to cut the top of the dress (of course, adding in seam allowances.)  The Derby uses two different facings for the front and back, but I took the easy route and made my front and back pieces identical since all of the panel seams we eliminated.   I then cut out two of the front facings on their own to match the front and back of the Derby.  The straps were later shortened to account for these changes to the neckline.

With the dress lengthened out to a maxi, I also extended the length of the neckline ruffle by 1″ to balance the proportion.  I though the ruffle would be cute on the back as well, but it ended up being  a bit “too much.”  Sometimes you have to know when to edit, and the back looks much better with a clean line.  To play with the neck ruffle, I also added a 7 1/4″ (finished) x WOF ruffle to the bottom of the Derby to make it as close to the ground without touching as possible.  It adds to the flirty feel of the dress and adds some extra swing.

I LOVE how this maxi version of the Derby came out.  The print needed to become a statement dress and I can definitely tell you it turned a lot of heads at the airports!  The lightweight rayon poplin was just perfect with the dress pattern for all the great movement.  It’s the perfect summer dress for travel and pairs beautifully with my vintage denim jacket….so that means I can also extend the season on this make! Yay!!!

Derby Dress by Love You Sew

Project Summary

 

Are you a bold and colorful person or usually a bit more reserved and neutral like myself?    I have to admit that stepping out of my usual color scheme was a lot of fun and I’m reaching for this dress a lot more than I thought I would!  Try it out if you haven’t already!!!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

The fabric for my dress was provided by D&H fabrics for advertising but I was not contracted to write a blog post.   As always, I like to share my makes and good fabric finds 🙂  There are affiliate links in this post and you can read up about my disclosures here.