Category: Tips

Holiday Tartan Pants with the Chi-Town Chinos

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I have always loved the chic preppy look of tartan pants.  They are a bit out there, but still SO fun and a great way to liven up an outfit — especially around the holidays.  But unfortunately, I just was never confident enough to believe that I could rock the look.  Plaid placement is key and the right amount of ease is needed to not turn these overlapping stripes into curvy roadways that make my  body look wider than it really is.  Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE having curves, but don’t need the plaid to push my silhouette down.  By making my own pants that are custom to my frame, I’m happy (actually, surprised!) with how this print actually lengthens my 5’3″ body.

FABRIC

Ever since the end of summer, I’ve been on the hunt for some good plaid suiting…whether it be wool or another cool weather fiber.  Initially, it was just so I could have some gray trousers for dressed up occasions.  But I found myself falling in love with holiday colored plaids too.  I have always loved how J. Crew would always have their tartans out for the holidays and wanted a sophisticated blend of colors like their style.  Most of the fabrics I found were always a little “off,” until I found this Blue/Red  Nirvana Plaid from Melanated Fabrics.  It was exactly the style, scale and fabric blend I was searching for!  And the best part is I found it on sale during Black Friday — we were meant to be!

What I love about this fabric is that it has a medium hand and twill finish, but also includes spandex for a 2-way stretch.  When you’re curvy, some extra stretch is always welcome!  The fabric is also a generous 56/57″ width, actually giving me a lot of extra to make a top or even a possible jacket later on. (That’s something I can deal with in 2022!)

This fabric is great for pants since the polyester content makes it pretty wrinkle-free…and I’ve had these tossed all over the place in-between wear and I haven’t had to re-iron them yet.  The Nirvana plaid is also completely opaque and not scratchy…so no extra lining is required.  There is actually rayon in the fabric that makes it VERY comfortable to wear.

The only downside to this fabric is that it does fray pretty easily.  I would recommend finishing all the edges to keep the fabric from unraveling.  My pocket lining is leftover from a Minerva kit and that was unraveling quite a bit too….so I ended up always trimming down my pants every few steps.  If I end up using the rest of this plaid, I will definitely finish the edges to save myself the sewing room mess!

PATTERN

When I bought this fabric, I had a completely different pants pattern in mind.  During Black Friday, I also picked up the By Hand London Jackie Trousers.  But after making the toile, I thought all the pleats wouldn’t look right and be too busy with such a stand-out tartan pattern.  It’s also a VERY relaxed fit with lots of ease since it’s also a unisex pattern.  So instead, I’m going to save the Jackie Trousers for a gray wool suiting I have that isn’t as busy and won’t make me feel like a balloon!

I’m glad I went with my gut and turned to my TNT (tried and true) Chi-Town Chinos (with expansion pack 2) by Alina Design Co, instead.  You can check out the very first pair I made here.  Since I’ve made these pants, as well as, the shorts before, I knew the changes I would have to make to fit my body.  My waist measured an 8 and my hips measured at a 12.  I generally have a two size difference between waist and hip and have tested between so many different adjustments over the years.  After 4 pairs of Chi-Town Chinos, I think I have it.

Here were my mods:

  • Cut a 10 (knowing I would take in extra later) and blended the hips out to a 12
  • Added 1 1/4″ to the rise in order to be mid-level and right at my belly button.  (The original drafting is for a low-rise chino.)  I added the length to the top of both the from and back pants template in order to keep the dart in place and not accidentally raise it too high.
  • Took out an additional 1/2″ out of each dart (1/4″ on both sides)
  • Took out an additional 1/2″ out of the center back
  • Added 1/2″ to the back crotch length for my back-side
  • Removed 2″ of length at the leg’s shorten/lengthen line
  • After making the pants, cut off an additional 1 1/2″ off off the hem
  • Interfaced the size 8 waistband so it wouldn’t stretch out with wear
  • Omitted back pockets

PLAID MATCHING

During my research of plaid pants, I unfortunately came across a bunch of poorly matched patterns….like, not even close to matching.  And I also saw some bad cutting, where one leg was cut on the bias and the other was on the grain…what?!?!  I couldn’t believe these pants were actually sold at one point!  But, there were a few pair that I definitely liked.  The ones I liked made sure to have the prominent stripe run vertically centered on the front and back legs.  This makes your eyes run up and down, with helps for a lengthening illusion.  You really have pay attention to the template’s grainline to get this right.  I also tried to make sure the big red stripes wouldn’t run horizontally across the apex of my back side and thus, widen me.  I wasn’t completely successful, but having the two red stripes on my backside, helps to even out the gaze…which is still winning!

When cutting the pant legs, I chose the widest part of the hip to be where I focused on matching. My main goal was to not have the horizontal stripe run directly into my crotch.  As you can see, it still runs across the pelvis and back, but not angled down into the crotch.  I cut every piece of the  chinos out separately to make sure all points were matched up.

To have nice side and inseams, I used A LOT of pins to hold the pants in place.  The Chi-Town Chinos have a generous 5/8″ seam allowance and it’s important to pin at the seam line and not just at the edge of the fabric.  If you pin just at the edge of the fabric, the pattern can shift very easily.  I know it’s a major “don’t,” but I will sew over my pins when I need to pattern match this much.  During the fit and basting process, I made sure to pattern match then.  If I was off a little bit, I could always go back and easily pick the stitching and re-pin for the final stitching.  Although this is takes patience and time, the pattern matching is well worth the effort!

One last tip I have is to use a walking foot when top-stitching…especially at the waistline.  Initially, I didn’t use one and with the twill weave along with the spandex fiber content, the plaid really shifted on me.  I picked all the stitching (ugh!) and then used a walking foot with extra pins to evenly guide the fabric while sewing so the plaid wouldn’t be lopsided.

I never thought I could wear patterned pants….mainly from RTW trauma years ago.  But I know NOW, with the right ease and fabric placement, I can do it.  This is really opening up my world and you better believe my pants will be much more fun going forward!  Isn’t sewing for yourself amazing?  Do you have any fun holiday makes in the works?

 

Merry Stitchmas Friends!

Cristy

 

 

Summer Swimsuit with Pinecrest Fabrics

Right before we leave for vacation, what do we, as sewists, always do?  Pack???  Nah, that makes too much sense….we just sew more clothes!  Isn’t there always one more garment we desperately need to have or else it’ll ruin our trip?  😛  Okay, it may not be that dramatic, but I still wanted a new swimsuit for the family vacation this summer.  There was some extra motivation too, since I received my package from Pine Crest Fabrics riiiight before we were about to leave.  Who can leave gorgeous fabric just sitting there!

 

FABRIC

I am very fortunate to have worked with Pine Crest Fabrics before with some Athleisurewear and with other swimwear fabrics.  With every make, I’ve been incredibly impressed with these high-quality stretch fabrics.  They are durable, silky smooth and have great recovery with the stretch.  This Pastel Tie-Dye Jungle print is no exception.  It’s a departure from what I would normally wear, but swimsuits are meant to be fun, right?  PCF has an incredible library of prints and can even do custom prints for wholesalers.  I love this indigo-purple color and that tie-dye is SO on trend right now. The scale of the print is perfect for form-fitting apparel…I absolutely love it and can’t wait to make a few extra separates from the scraps I have!

As a repeat maker, testing the feel of all the different base cloths they manufacture is a special honor, especially those which are more sustainable like with this fabric that uses  80% recycled Greenlon (TM) Nylon.  I love to thrift, upcycle and use sustainable fabrics when I’m making new garments, and knowing that Greenlon (TM) uses recycled plastics using in the fibers is just amazing!  On top of that, PCF also meets the following to be eco-friendly:

  • Global Responsibility Standards (GRS) –  This means recycled materials are verified and the production process meets responsible practices.  You can read more here.
  • OEKO-TEX certified to test for harmful substances to human health.  You can read more here.
  • HIGG Index – This is part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition for moe standardized measurements in the the textile and apparel industries.  You can read more here.

On top of feeling good about all of these certifications, this fabric is STILL absolutely amazing in its weight, hand and feel.  The four-way stretch is strong which allows for full movement, but also has great recovery and compression.  The fabric is completely opaque, so if you wanted to make leggings or bike shorts, they would be squat-proof too.  I like the cool feel from this base cloth and it’s silky enough that I don’t worry about chafing…especially during a long day in a wet suit!

Mystery deadstock fabric with Pine Crest Fabrics solid lining

I’ve sewed with a lot of spandex fabrics with good experiences and some that didn’t live up to my expectations.  I made a swimsuit (picture above) using some deadstock fabric I purchased a few years back, so origin and content is a mystery.  I loved the print and was happy to buy something that was overstock from a manufacturer.  However, I did a lot of indoor swimming over the winter and my lap suit was ravaged by the chlorine.  You can see that It went from navy to orange in the center of the print!  But if you check out that solid navy lining — it’s Pine Crest!  The navy blue is still as saturated as day one.  This is a true testament to the quality and high chlorine resistance!  It’s just a bummer that I have to toss this suit before the construction and/or fit deteriorated…

 

PATTERN

After having my babies, I mostly wear full bathing suits during the hot months.  It keeps me covered where I like to be covered, but still allows me to easily play and swim with my kids.  After finding the Violet Swimsuit by Laela Jeyne Patterns, I knew I wanted to try it out first with the plain V-neck (and then later with a ruffle.)  I used this suit as my wearable muslin/toile while I tried out this pattern for the very first time.

The Violet Swimsuit has two views featuring a faux crossover neckline with and without a ruffle.  There is also a cut out variation at the side of waistline for some extra style.  All edges are bound and the suit is fully lined.  You can select from a high or low scooped back and I opted for the lower style…Can you tell I don’t usually wear one with that tan line???  I love the construction technique for removable pads and love that this suit has different templates going from A-E cups.  The pattern fits up to a 49.5″ bust and up to a 47″ high hip.

Details and Modifications:

  • I measured 10 in the Bust and Waist; 12 in the Hips – graded out the pattern to fit
  • Used the same fabric as the lining
  • Raised each leg opening by 2″ – Since I’m short, I prefer suits to not cut off my leg at it’s widest point (making me look even shorter.)   So, I prefer a higher leg to give an illusion of extra length.
  • Added 1″ to each leg elastic since the leg opening was now larger
  • Increased the seam allowance  1/8″ at the shoulders and at the crotch for a more secure fit
  • For the binding, I sew it to the lining side of the suit first and then flipped it over to the main fabric so I could better control the placement of the topstitch.
  • You will notice in the flat-lay of the suit that I inserted the elastic the wrong way but didn’t catch it until it was too late.  Instead of picking out the seams I let it be and the suit still wears wonderfully!

All of the other swimsuits I’ve made before used elastic to secure the edges and I was so happy to try out this binding method.  Like most suits, you do NOT need a coverstitch machine and can sew one with the basic stitches (and a ball-point needle!) on your domestic machine.  I used a zig-zag stitch and some washable Wonder Tape (aff link)  to help hold the binding evenly as sewed.  *’Just remember that you have to then wash the garment prior to the final fit since it inhibits the stretch.

The faux crossover feature of the suit does require top-stitching to hold it in place and I was pretty stoked to use my “lightning” stitch for the first time.  Yes, I do own a coverstitch, but I certainly don’t always want to spend the time setting it up for 8″ of stitching!  This is a great low-profile stretch stitch and I’m so pleased with how it looks and holds up.

Overall, I’m very pleased with this make.  The fabric and print are phenomenal and I appreciated the cool hand and quick drying after a long day on the lake with my kids.  With new makes, I appreciate lots of notches and that’s the one thing I wish the pattern had….especially with the binding not centered at the back as you would intuitively think would happen.  I also wish the pads sat more evenly in the suit, but once on, it does stay in place.  Buuuut, these little things won’t stop me from making another!  I’ll post up my ruffle version soon!  Have you made any new swimsuits this year?

 

Happy sewing!

Cristy

 

These fabrics were gifted to me by Pinecrest Fabrics in exchange for this blog post.  I purchased this pattern to use with the fabric.  All opinions are my own.  

There maybe affiliate links used in this post.  You can read about my disclosures here.

 

 

Review || Fibre Mood Paulette Blouse

When I saw the previews for issue 13 of the Fibre Mood Magazine, I was awestruck with the flirty and fun nature of the Paulette Blouse.  This button-up top has a ruffle starting from one princess seam running around the back to the other.  The hem line runs straight and hits right at the high hip.  With a band collar and two-button cuff, this blouse has all of the features of a classic shirt, but has that feminine touch with all the ruffles! We’re still in a life of Zoom calls, so statement blouses are all on trend.   That means the prairie influence of last year is hanging around even a little longer than trends generally go — YAY!  I know not everyone is into that “cottage-core” style, so updating it with the right fabric can make the look last a little longer than the all-out trend.

FABRIC

I LOVED the sample version of the Paulette when I first saw the stock photos!  Is anyone not surprised it made the  cover of Issue 13?  There was just something with the directional play on stripes and the classic mix with softer ruffles that just really worked for me.  But, of course, I wanted to make this blouse with my own spin… While in the middle of deep Ohio snow, I knew I needed to start thinking about warm weather and spring clothes.  This cheerful green and white striped lawn came up in one of my late night searches.  While I initially found it on Fabric.com, I was worried about delayed shipping times (due to COVID-19) and not being able to make my FM ambassador deadline.  PRO-TIP ->  I checked  Amazon to see if they carried the same fabric (since they also own Fabric.com.)  If you have a Prime Membership, many times you can get the same fabric cheaper AND faster than if you purchase through Fabric.com.  I even have a business account with Fabric.com and it turned out Amazon + Prime was still a better deal!!! #winning I chose to use lawn since it’s very lightweight and breathable — perfect for warm weather.  However, it also tends to be semi-sheer.  So lawn is great for blouses and other tops….but you will definitely need a lining for a dress or pants.  The other great feature of lawn…especially 100% cotton version, is that it holds great structure while still having a soft hand.  While the fabric is light, you can really get great body and volume that won’t cling onto every curve and still make  some gorgeous statement ruffles!  If you like the look more of the FM cover sample, something more drapey like a rayon challis or light tencel twill would give you that look. This fabric purchase was made on a whim since I loved the green and white stripes.  And…I’m happy to report I would definitely buy it again.  It washes and dries well since the fabric is 100% cotton (and I do NOT like to line dry if I don’t have to!)  It sews up easily without shifting issues like your typical quilt cotton.  Since the fabric is lightweight, I did drop my regular needle size down to 70, but used my normal all-purpose Gutermann white thread for construction.

PATTERN

Fibre Mood sells their patterns either as a full set through their magazine (definitely a great deal if you want 3 or more patterns) or digitally, a la carte.  The instructions are available to any registered user through the website (in 5 different languages!) which is a really generous feature.  So, you can read through the complete instructions and understand the steps BEFORE buying the actual pattern! I printed the Paulette pattern at home and loved being able to uncheck the other tiled sizes I didn’t need.  While it’s definitely more labor intensive to print and assemble the pattern at home, I was working against the clock and with bad weather conditions, I didn’t even want to send the A0 copy shop version out to the local printer. For this Fibre Mood pattern, I measured as an 8 in the bust and waist, while also being  a 12 in the hips — which is typical for my body.  Construction went very well with the ample amount of notches (I do love them!) and the great instructions.  I have made many other blouses with button plackets like the Archer and Aida tops, so I knew what to expect. Overall, I stayed true to the pattern and made only the following modifications:
  • Graded the waist out to a 12 in the hip
  • Used a 1/4″ hem instead of 3/4″ to lengthen the top.  Next time, I may add an extra inch for more coverage to tuck in…and I’m only 5’3″!
  • Increased the overall bust by 1/2″ by letting out 1/8″ from each princess seam.  The finished measurement of the blouse is suppose to be ~40″.  But when I tried on the blouse, it was pressing against my chest as I moved and didn’t have nearly the ease as it should.  Even after releasing that 1/2″ from the princess seams, the finished bust measured at 39″ and not 40″ as stated.  My pattern pieces and seam allowances were correct, so I would highly recommend a muslin and/or sizing up if you are in-between.
This Fiber Mood Paulette was a great sew and I love the final results!  This is a nice fresh take on the ruffle blouse and makes me long for some sun and warmer temperatures!  What’s on your spring maker list?   Hugs and Stitches, Cristy
Please note, I am on the Fibre Mood influencer team and an affiliate member. I received this pattern for free but was not obligated to write this blog post.  This post may also contain affiliate links.  Please read my disclosures here.

Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 6: Final Bag Assembly

Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!  We are now at the FINISH —  Part 6: Final Bag Assembly!  If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:

It’s now time to put the bag altogether and add all the dimension.  To make sewing a little easier, remove the sewing machine table to better maneuver the bag around the free arm.  Take time sewing even though the videos are short…most segments have been sped up 4x-6x the normal speed!

ASSEMBLE the exterior

To assemble the exterior part of the bag, click into the video above.  Note the following as you watch:

  • You can always unzip zipper to help ease the bag under the machine
  • Don’t be afraid to  use finger and arm muscles to keep thick layers together.  Move up to a larger needle, if needed
  • Backstitch well over pocket seams
  • Go back and stitch Y-seam corners, if needed.  I have to go back all the time!
  • With Main bottom, trimmed SA in half instead of notching due to thickness of canvas and foam.

ADD LINING To FINISH BAG

Items to note:

  • I added the Craft/Wonder tape to the Lining while it was free and unattached to the bag.  This makes it a little easier than waiting later as instructed in the pattern
  • Trim back any foam or fabric that maybe creating bulk, especially at the zipper ends.
  • When attaching the Lining, fold in the seam allowance  to see where placement should be BEFORE gluing.
  • Again, move slowly for even stitching around the zipper
  • If you are looking for the Jumbo Clips or thimble I use, you can find them on my >> Amazon Erin Backpack Supply List.

If you haven’t added the rivets onto the Back Strap Tabs, you can add them on now.  (I’ve decided to leave them off of my version.)

 

CONGRATULATIONS on your new Erin Backpack!  Make sure to post your pictures on Instagram using #ErinBackpackSewAlong #ErinBackpack and #LoveYouSewPatterns to win the prize pack!  Entries are open until the end of the month!

Thank you to everyone who has joined along for my very first sew along!  I’ve learned quite a bit about video editing while trying to provide you the right content to navigate through this pattern.  I hope you enjoyed it!  Let me know your thoughts in the comments.

 

Happy Stitching!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read here for all of my Disclosures.

Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 5: Make the Lining

Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!  We are now on Part 5: Make the Lining.  If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:

With this part, we will tackle the entire lining and even assemble it!

Zipper pocket

The interior Welt Zipper Pocket is constructed the same way as the outside one, except without the Zipper Plate.  So, we don’t have to go through all of the steps again.  If you need a fresher, you can head back to Part 4.

With this pocket, there is no basting, just a regular topstitch to secure the zipper to the lining (as shown above.) .

For some more visual interest, you can always add another Zipper Plate or add in some rivets.  I placed one on with side of the zipper opening,  3/8″ from each end AFTER pocket has been closed up.  This helps add a little more security to the pocket lining.

You may have noticed that I added in a branding tag.  This is not apart of the instructions, so I skipped it in the video.  But if you would like to add one in this same spot, I sew the tag after finishing the Welt Zipper Pocket.  The leather stamped tags are from ViVi in Oz.

Slip Pocket, Elastic Pockets and assembly

The rest of the Lining construction and assembly can be found in the video above.  You can view the different sections timestamped as follows:

  • Slip Pocket  (00:10)
  • Elastic Pockets (01:35 )
  • Accessory Strap (04:25)
  • Key Fob (04:58)
  • Assembly (05: 06)

Items to note:

  • You can get extra hardware help by clicking on these posts -> Rivets  -> Spring Snaps
  • May need to adjust the length of elastic based on what type/style you are using.  You want to have enough pulled in so that the Elastic pocket is bunched up enough to equal the length of the Front Lining.
  • DON’T skip the 2nd line of baste stitching for the gathering.  It makes life MUCH easier –especially when trying to gather stiffened fabric from the interfacing.
  • If you would like to take the option of adding rivets to the Elastic Pockets, make sure to NOT punch the holes directly on a seam.
  • Yes, the Front Lining IS suppose to be shorter than the Back Lining.  This takes the width of the zipper into account and incorporates it as part of the backpack’s front wall.

 

Can you taste the finish?  The very last of the Erin Backpack sew along comes later this week, Part 6:  Final Assembly.  I hope you have been enjoying the process.  Don’t forget to use #erinbackpack #erinbackpacksewalong and #loveyousewpatterns on Social Media!  I’m so excited to see your finished bags!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy