Category: Tiny Sophia Bag

Hardware || Install Double-Cap Spring Snaps by Hand

Installing snaps by hand isn’t as hard as it looks! The Double-Cap Spring style snaps are my personal favorite for bag-making and for garments. I’ve tried many different kinds of snaps over the years, including plastic KAM style ones for baby accessories and then Ring Style ones for bags.   Out of all the ones I’ve tried,  I think these Doubled-Cap Spring snaps are the most forgiving with manual setting tools and produce the BEST results with minimum investment.  Check out my video tutorial below to see how easy it really is!!!

I love using these snaps in my patterns like The Tiny Sophia Bag (shown above,) the Megan Bucket Bag and the Erin Backpack.  You can also use these in shirts like my Holly Jumpsuit, and in jackets, like with my Kelly Anorak.

Materials needed:

  • Your project!
  • Double-Cap snaps – 12.5 mm/20 : These are my preferred size to handle most of my needs and I personally like the Double-Cap for extra strength even though they are slightly more expensive than the single cap style.
  • Setting Tool Set (use “633” tools for 12.5 mm snaps) – For the price, I bought this whole set on the off-chance I would need other size tools for future snaps.  They have held up well so far with lots of use
  • Punch Pliers – These are my preferred style with the ability to change hole sizes and punch to either a rubber or metal bed.
  • Jeweler’s Bench – This tool maybe underrated, but this is actually key in getting a nice firm hardware install
  • Hammer – Everyone has one at home and with all my bag and garment making, I had to get one specifically for the sewing room so my husband wouldn’t have to keep looking for the one from our toolbox!

 

Tutorial:

Click into the video above to watch the entire snap installation process.  As with anything new you learn, make sure to practice before moving onto your actual process.  You’ll get a feel for the swing of the hammer and how much pressure is needed for the posts to attach to either the stud of the socket.

Even though I do own a hardware press along with the right dies for these snaps. many times, I’ll still go the manual route.  Sometimes, it’s just  a little bit quicker when I just need one or two snaps installed.  The application is more forgiving, and that’s what I appreciate versus other snaps which have to be SO perfect to work….ugh….

These snaps are paired correctly going from left to right [Stud Post + Stud] [Socket Cap + socket]

After watching the video, take note of these TIPS as well to help:

  • With Double-Cap Spring Snaps, the caps can be confusing to figure out.  But you will see that only one post can fit through the socket.  Make sure you pair those together.  The remaining cap will then be paired to the socket
  • Use a solid work surface like a thick sturdy table
  • Work at natural waist height – when a project is on the ground, the swing of the hammer is thrown off and can lead to angled application
  • Again, practice, practice, practice!!!

 

I hope this helps to alleviate your anxieties around hardware snaps.  Once you assemble a few, you’ll be an expert in no time!  In just a few weeks, I’ll also share my hardware press details 😉

 

Enjoy hammering away!

Cristy

 

 

This post may contain affiliate links which help keep this website running .  For my full affiliate Disclosure, click here.

Tutorial: Seal Edges of Cork, Leather or Vinyl

If you are looking for a simple way to finish the edges of your non-fraying substrates, this is it!  The following tutorial will help you seal the edges of cork, leather, suede and vinyl.  Many of the man-made substrates have a fabric backing which can still fray over time.  Sealing the edges with  paint ensures that you have a clean finish and won’t see any of that fraying.  This tutorial is great for:

TUTORIAL

To get started, these are the Materials Needed (with affiliate links):

  • Project – cork, leather, suede or vinyl
  • Leather Paint- I used “Neutral” as an all-purpose clearcoat
  • Paint Applicator – There are many out in the market and this works well for my needs as long as the post is clean and oiled well
  • Cup/Dish – I use a simple bathroom cup which I can throw away later
  • Emery board or Fine grit sandpaper

 

Click into the video ABOVE to view the full process.

TIP:  In-between coats drying, I like to seal up the extra paint in a bag so that it doesn’t dry out.  This allows me to maximize the paint and the paint has stayed wet for over a day for me.

I hope you enjoy this tutorial to make your projects look even MORE professional!

 

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

 

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read my Disclosures, here.

Tiny Sophia Bag HACK: Travel Sanitizer Holder

As the world goes on, we know washing hands and using sanitizer is LIFE right now. It is SO important to stay healthy and protect ourselves against all germs – pandemic or not!  Washing hands with soap is the preferred way to keep them clean, but when there isn’t a sink around hand sanitizer is a decent alternative. You can read more about the benefits of hand-washing here with the CDC.

Like all of you, I want to keep my family safe and have sanitizer on them at all times – especially as school opened up for my kids. But of course, supplies have been (and still are) very bare.  Trying to find those manufactured jelly style travel sanitizer holders was just impossible. That’s when I took it upon myself to make cases for my kids and husband.

Different size travel bottles

It turns out that the Tiny Sophia Bag (read about it here) is the right width to hold most travel sanitizers! The height just needs to be adjusted and that’s where this hack was born. This hack will take you through the steps to transform your #tinypurse to a sanitizer holder for most 1-2 oz travel bottles.  I tried to find a variety of bottles to test so you can see how they fit and decided to create one version for bottles from 1-1.6 oz and then another version that can fit 2 oz bottles.  If you are using bottles different from any of those pictured, be sure to check the template against your sanitizer BEFORE cutting any material.

2 oz Holder vs 1 oz Holder

 

 

Materials Needed:

  • The Tiny Sophia Bag pattern – found here
  • Ruler
  • Extra paper
  • Marking Instrument
  • Clear Tape

Tutorial

***Please note there are adjustments depending on whether you are making a holder for a 1.0-1.6 oz. bottle versus a 2 oz. bottle.   Please read instructions carefully.

1. Cut the pattern template out per instructions. Mark the cut line along where the bottom flap meets the sides.

2. Take a scrap piece of paper (wider than the bottom flap) and mark a 1″ high extension for 1-1.6 oz. sanitizer bottles. *If you have a 2 oz. bottle, you will want to mark a 2″ high extension.

3. Cut the bottom flap off the bag template following your markings

4. Line up the top of the pattern along the extension and tape into place.

5. Take a ruler and mark the right side of the extension aligning it to the Top flap’s side edge.

6. Repeat on the left side of the extension.

7. Line up the bottom flap to the lower side of the extension making sure it matches the side markings.

8. Trim away the excess paper.  Mark a line 1/2″ from the top of the extension. *If you are making a 2 oz. bottle holder, mark a line 1″ from the top of the extension.

9. Use a sanitizer bottle cap as your opening.  (This replaces the Charger Opening.)  Center it vertically on the template and place it just under mark made in the previous step.  Trace.

10. Carefully cut out the circle with paper scissors.

11. Check that the sanitizer bottle you want to use fits through the opening on the template. Adjust as needed.

12.  Check that the template fits around the bottle by aligning the hardware holes.  Adjust as needed.  Once you are satisfied with the fit, follow the steps in The Tiny Sophia Bag to finish your  travel sanitizer holder!

Notes:

This cork version uses the 1 oz adjustment, but if I were to make it again just for this style of sanitizer bottle from Bath & Body Works, I would make a slightly wider opening to accommodate  that wider flip-cap.

I added stitching to all of my samples in this post, but you don’t have to.  Using faux leather with felt backings like these pictured above leave no fraying and make this a fast and simple project.

With the holidays ahead, these will make such great gifts!  So I will switch up the hardware to swivel clasps on the back so they can hang easily from key chains, purses and backpacks.

Where to find supplies:

  • For Cork or Faux Leather, I’m a big fan of Sew Sweetness.  Shipping is flat-rate, fast and I think a great deal!
  • For real leather and a variety of finishes, TanneryNYC has remnant bags.  I received small – medium sized cuts and was able to make several Tiny Sophia Bags out of the surprise shipment. These are high quality pieces of soft leather.
  • I love Emmaline Bags and By Annie’s hardware, but if you are looking for a value set for kids, I recently bought these (pictured on yellow case) and these from Amazon.
  • For Snaps, I used spring style ones from Gold Star tool, but recently fell in love with these Rivet Magnets from Kam Snaps (as seen with the pink cork version above.)

 

I hope you enjoy this hack and find it useful in our current environment.  Please drop a comment and let me know what you think!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Any earnings go right back into powering this website.  Please read my Disclosures here.

Hardware || Install Rivets by Hand

Of all the things I’m asked about in my sewing, I get the most questions about hardware.  It’s such an easy way to take a project to the next level like with the Megan Bucket Bag and Claire Foldover Clutch hack.  ‘Just an extra touch of metal can really take a bag from “homemade” to “handcrafted.”  That’s exactly what I was looking for in my bag creations.  Before I got a “fancy” hardware press, I installed all my rivets by hand for at least a year.  And even with the press, I still set them manually based on my needs.  Below is a quick video to show you how to install rivets and lots of my personal tips as well!

Megan Bucket Bag

Claire Fold-over Clutch

 

Materials

First, you need the right materials.  Below are the materials and links (some affiliate) which I use in the video.

  • Steel Jeweler’s Bench – This is a small but mighty block and handles all of my own personal hardware needs.  I used to set rivets on the basement floor (which you shouldn’t do, but we’ll discuss that later) and this block is such a game changer so I can use my own cutting table and not have to go down two flights of steps.
  • Fabric Hole Punch Pliers – This type of punch plier is by far my favorite.  The bed of the tool where you place your fabric is plastic vs. metal.  Some people like the metal bed because it will last longer, but I MUCH prefer the plastic bed because you will get better cuts and the actual hole bit will stay sharp longer.  Yes, the bed will begin to wear away but there is a replacement and each one will last you a long time…probably longer than the bit.
  • Rivet Setter – My preferred tool is this larger 9mm one because I personally use rivets with caps this large.  This will be able to set smaller ones too!
  • Concave Anvil – Since I’m using double-cap rivets, a concave anvil is needed to keep the shape  of the other cap, else it will completely flatten.
  • Hammer – I’ve used a few different hammers – small and large and I really like this Fiskar’s one.  The grip is comfortable and the 12 oz head allows for a good solid strike.  You can certainly use a mallet instead, but I’ve had good luck with just a hammer.
  • Double-Cap Rivets – These are the “small” rivets with an 8 mm head and 6 mm stem.  I use this size the most for decorative application and will move up to a longer stem for thick folded straps.  I prefer double to single cap rivets purely for inventory purposes to handle all of my needs.

Process

In the video, I take you through both leather and fabric applications which are pretty much the same.  I included a few tips but want to elaborate a little more based on my own experience.

  • Work at counter-height – For me, my results are MUCH better when I work at counter-height (while standing) versus working on the floor.  I know when you first start out, the concrete basement or garage floor might be the hardest surface you have and this is definitely how I started out with rivet application.  But there is something about leaning over a project that increases the arc (maybe?) of my swing and I ended up with a lot of crooked, ill-placed rivets.  So, if you can, I highly suggest working on an old table – over one of the legs for extra stability.

  • Select the right size rivet for EACH project – Initially, you may get the urge to just buy one size to fit all of your needs, but there is a reason there are SO many difference size combinations.  While the cap is more for aesthetics, the stem length is key in a proper application.  I recommend about 3-5mm stem longer than the thickness of your project when you finger-press down on it.  You want the stem to be long enough to mushroom into the cap.  Else, your project may pull apart later with use.  But you don’t want it so long that it could “over-mushroom” and damage the cap.  The extra length also provides more opportunity for a crooked installation.  So, that’s why you want to minimize your risk.  6mm and 8mm posts were pretty much all I used for a long time and then I expanded out later when I was working with thicker substrates

  • Hold Setter down at base close to rivet – This provides the most control so the setter is aligned and straight over the rivet.  If you hold the setter too high, the impact of the hammer may move the setter and you could get an unsightly imprint on the cap.
  • Spin the rivet between your fingers to check for a proper application (1:18 in video) – You know that the rivet is completely installed when you can’t rotate it between your fingers.  It shouldn’t be able to move at all.  If the rivet is still loose or you can still see the stem, go back and install again.

Abbey Convertible Backpack

If you do have a crooked installation or accidentally mis-aligned the setter on a rivet cap, I’ll show you how to remove a rivet with next week’s blog post.  Please share below if you have even more tips to help along fellow readers!

 

Enjoy!

 

Cristy

 

 

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read about all of my disclosure here.

Introducing The Tiny Sophia Bag

2 Comments

We are in the thick of the holiday season and I thought I did some pretty good seasonal planning.  I made gifts for my nieces and nephew early since I went to visit them in November and even got my fancy holiday dress finished by my husband’s birthday a few weeks ago.  But then I shared my Tiny Sophia Bag with all of you on Instagram and my feed (DMs too!) filled up with requests for this pattern.  You caught me in a moment of weakness because I said, “Sure, why not?!  This is probably the time when you would like this pattern the most!”  So why not add another “thing” to the list…famous last words. Lol!

You can purchase the Tiny Sophia Bag here.

If you have been following my stories on IG, I shared these itty bitty purses by Jaquemus which I’ve been seeing all over the fashion reports.  Although completely useless as an actual purse (and WAY too expensive *eyeroll*) I still wanted one…but of course, in my own DIY way!  Spoiler alert – my way is MUCH more cost effective.

Over the summer, I toyed around with some paper templates to make a tiny bag for fun, but nothing really came out of it.  Then a visit back east to see my family made me really notice the wireless ear pods my brother was wearing.  Shortly after that, Lizzo came out on the red carpet with a tiny Valentino bag!  Combine these events and it made me wonder if the pods had a carrying case…aaaand if that case could also be a purse!

Namesake

As I was developing this pattern and making all of the prototypes, I knew this bag would be named after my niece, Sophia.  (All of my bag patterns are named after one of my nieces.)  Miss Sophia is a petite lil’ lady and the absolute CUTEST…just like this bag!  She is always game for a little fun and adventure, which makes her a great travel companion.  Since her dad was also part of the inspiration, it’s only fitting that this bag is named after her.

View B

Features

I know there are a ton of aftermarket pod cases out there and I thought a leather one would be chic and beautiful.  After a few hours (with my husband and boys at basketball practice,) I was able to draft a headphone case AND a bag by switching up the options.  This is no-sew pattern with two different views and the features can certainly be mixed and matched!

  • View A  “Mini Purse” – This has a strap on the top flap with a D-ring on the back and a snap closure.
  • View B “Accessory Case” – This has a bottom slot opening for a charger and the D-ring is set on the side.  A button stud is used as the closure.

View A

Hardware

The Tiny Sophia Bag requires rivet and snap or button stud installation.  This is assumed in the pattern (and I promise I will add more posts about how I install.)  I want to let you know my favorite suppliers:

  • Rivets:  For a long time, I set these just using just a hammer and anvil.  You can find these tools  in my shop, here.  Emmaline Bags carries a wide variety of sixes in different finishes. (Pictured above are the “small” rivets in Antique brass.)
  • Snaps: I’m a big fan of double-cap spring snaps from Gold Star Tool.  These are the same ones I used for my Kelly Anorak which you can find here. (On the cover photo, I have a size 20 ligne brass snap.)
  • Button Studs (screw on): These are THE best, since there are no special setting tools needed…just a screwdriver.  I grab most of mine from Amazon and I like the Tandy ones (when I’m in a pinch for timing since there is a store nearby.)  I think the 6mm/7mm head ones are a good proportion for this small bag.  (The 8mm head studs are used in my Kelly Waist Bag pattern)

New SVG Files

A big addition to this pattern release is the inclusion of SVG (scalable vector graphic) files which you can use with most electronic cutting machines.  I’ve always imported images and traced my own files, but have never created ones from Illustrator before.  So, I was pleasantly surprised to see how this pattern cut on my machine!  I have an old Silhouette Cameo with a straight knife and the cork cut so well on setting #7.  It did not like leather though…I’m hoping the rotary blades do much better.  There are three files for the different views and an extra one to combine all of the features together.  Please let me know what you think about this new feature!

Cutting by Hand

For those who don’t have a cutting machine, please know that I made all of these Tiny Sophia Bags by hand.  After making lots of leather bags and over a dozen of these minis, here are a few tips and tricks that will help you though.

  • I LOVE this heavy duty multi-blade craft knife set by Fiskars.  The different blades are great depending on the type of cut you need to make…my fave is the 1/2″ straight edge one.
  • The pattern essentially looks like a cross, so the edges are right angles.  If you match up the sides with a ruler, you’ll have a smoother (and more accurate) cut.
  • Use a metal ruler with a craft knife for the straight edges.
  • For thicker leather/suede, you might want to use a box cutter for a stronger blade and press down on the ruler so it doesn’t drag.
  • Speaking of blades, remember to use a new one that’s nice and sharp for clean cuts.
  • With the curves, try to find household objects like bowls that match to balance your knife against.
  • For the back D-Ring opening, one of my testers said a button-hole cutter like this one is great for cutting the edges.

Customize

There are so many different ways to customize your Tiny Sophia Bag.  Luckily, I have a nice stash of leather scraps from thrifting and from friends.  You can use leather, suede, faux leather, and even cork!  Based on the thickness of your substrate, you may have to adjust the position of the holes which is also covered in the the pattern 😉

Check out #TheTinySophiaBag on social media to see all of the different versions.  I like the extra stitching around the edges to make the bag look more polished (don’t forget to use that leather needle and teflon or walking foot!)  Many of my testers used decorative hardware too.  I can’t wait to see what you do!

If you are ready for the cutest little purse, you can grab the Tiny Sophia Bag pattern, here.  Use it to carry your trinkets, coins, and all the smartphone accessories.  One of my testers mad bags for her daughters’ dolls!  I’m adding one of these on my Christmas tree and will use it later to hang off my purse for my own headphones.

How would you use your Tiny Sophia Bag?

 

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my Disclosure, here.