Category: Reviews

Make the Coziest Halifax Hoodie + Kangaroo Pocket Hack for View E

After the holidays, January is such a drag. Then, throw in the Polar Vortex that hit the Midwest this week and it’s just downright depressing.  We can’t go anywhere, school had been cancelled two-days in a row, I can’t send the kids to go out and play….plus, it’s just so friggin’ COLD! I am thankful, however, to have made this Halifax Hoodie the other week. The plush softness of this fabric combined with a comfy cozy sweatshirt design is keeping me pretty warm through this cold spell.

FABRIC:

I picked up this heavyweight bamboo/cotton sweatshirting in Heretic from Imagine Gnats.  Right now, the shop carries a number of different colors of this fabric, as well as matching ribbing!  When I bought my fabric, they were sold out of the ribbing (which was a bummer,) but the 25% four-way stretch in this sweatshirting is more than enough for the cuffs and waistband.  I love how soft the fleeced inside of this fabric is from the bamboo…even after multiple washings.

PATTERN:

The Halifax Hoodie by Hey June Handmade is a very popular pattern with it’s classic casual design and multiple features.  This is a great pattern for knits and allows for so many different styles and combinations….whether you want a full zip-up hoodie or just a crew-neck sweatshirt.

I opted for View E with the angled side seams this awesome funnel neck.  I’m a big fan of Lululemon athleisure-wear and they tend to have higher necks in many of their jackets and tops.  I love this feature since I’m always cold and can’t say no to a built-in scarf 😉 I even raised the funned neck an additional 1.5″ on the fold (3″ overall,) to add even more of the cozy factor.  The thickness of the sweatshirting helps the funnel neck stand up and provide volume. If you are using a regular weight knit, you may end up with more of a cowl look instead.

KANGAROO POCKET HACK:

While the other views of the Halifax had pockets, View E did not.  When I was planning this too, I just wanted the extended neck, but I happened to be wearing a regular crewneck sweatshirt while cutting out the pattern pieces.  I realized how many times I was reaching for my stomach to warm up my hands, just like when I wear my hoodies.  I decided I definitely needed a kangaroo pocket and you can follow how I made one below.

1. With the angled side seams. I wanted to make sure the pocket followed the same sharp lines and thus, didn’t use the pocket pattern included (which has rounded openings for the hands.) I used a scrap piece of knit fabric to create a new pocket.  The scrap was laid down and I played with the sizing by folding the scrap until it looked right.  I used my own hands to make sure the opening was big enough for me to easily access the pockets.  Then I trimmed up the scrap to match the lines of the front sweatshirt hem and side seams.

2. Folding the new template in half, transfer the design to my fabric and added 1/2″ seam allowance at the top and side hand openings.

3. Open up the pocket and finish the top and side hand openings by serging or by using a zig-zag stitch.

4. Fold under the side pocket openings by 1/2″ and top-stitch.  I stitched at 1/8″ and at 1/4″.

5. Press under the top of the pocket by 1/2″.  Add some Wonder Tape along the seam allowance and remove the backing.  Press the pocket into place centered on the front to prevent the pocket from shifting.

6. On the wrong side of the front, fuse small scrap pieces of interface at the top corners of the pocket.  You can feel the corners through the fabric.

7.  With the right side of the front facing up, flip up the pocket and sew along the top of the pocket. Backstitch well at the beginning and end

8. Flip the pocket back down and baste the sides and bottom of the pocket to the front.  After I took these pictures, I went an extra step and tacked down the top corners of the pockets for extra strength.

SIZING

I’m a 36″ bust, 40.5″ around the hips and made a straight medium. Being 5’3″, I usually have to make a sleeve length adjustment, but left it all the same to keep the slouch and ease. I love this generous fit and the stretch in this fabric allows for great movement. I probably won’t make any adjustments when I make my next Halifax.

I hope you are all staying warm or have fled to warmer climates! In the meantime, I hope you checkout the Halifax Hoodie and this tutorial to add a pocket to View E.

 

Happy cold-weather sewing!

Cristy

Fall Sewing: Alix Dress in Télio Rayon Slub

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After making a number of practical everyday garments likes jeans and sweatshirts, it feels good to make something that’s a little extra special.  I’ve been dying to make a Boho maxi dress for the days I want some statement style but still have a light relaxed feel.  Then Télio asked me to collaborate and I already adore their fashion-forward garment fabrics.  How could I refuse an opportunity after seeing this gorgeous border print?  The fabric along with By Hand London’s Alix dress pattern were going to be THE perfect match!

Fabric

The first time I used Télio fabric was here.  I was impressed with the high quality and how the fabric washes well.  So, it’s no wonder I fell in love with this Télio Kahlo Rayon (#39801) for its gorgeous double-border print.  Look how the three different patterns are layered to give an impression of a tiered dress without having to actually sew one!  It gives so much visual interest and I was able to play with the design with my fussy cuts of the dress pattern.

The fabric is 100% rayon with an incredible slub texture.  The feel of the natural fiber knobs adds to the character of the Alix Dress and Boho vibe.  As with all rayon, the fabric is still lightweight with beautiful drape and movement.  It is also completely opaque.  After adding linings to my last few makes, I’m happy to leave that step out!

Pattern

Initially when I chose this fabric, I wanted to make a long shirtdress.  But when I received it, I knew I wanted something else to show off this print.  After going through dozens of other patterns, I remembered how the Alix Dress caught my eye awhile back.  I’ve sewn up the Holly Trousers before and By Hand London writes up a great pattern.

I really love this dress silhouette.  It’s relaxed all over with a beautiful tie-back to show off the waist.  This allows a nice shape without having me look like I’m drowning in fabric….especially, when I’m petite.  The tie-back also allows for weight fluctuations, which is VERY much appreciated in a handmade wardrobe.

One of the features that drew me into this pattern were the peasant sleeves.  I have heavy arms and usually have to make a bicep adjustment with woven patterns, so the ease in the sleeves looked pretty attractive.  I ended up not having to make any adjustments to the sleeve pattern.  The darts at the top of the shoulder allow full range of motion.

However, I still did hack into the sleeve to change out the elastic casings.  I wanted a clean look and went for a slim button cuff with a 2″ long placket made with 1/4″ bias tape.  Since the cuff is only 1/2″ wide, I didn’t want to make a buttonhole and opted for a loop with my fabric covered button.  This a small detail, but I love being able to make my own custom buttons.

The other change I made to the Alix dress is the addition of pockets….because all dresses need pockets!  Amirite?  I used the in-seam pocket pattern from Christine Hayne’s Derby Dress (it’s my go-to pocket) and marked them about 4″ down from the top of the skirt.  If you ever wonder if you should add pockets, do it!  You won’t regret the extra work 🙂

Since I was working with a border print, I was limited to the 56″ wof and had to cut off 5.5″ from the skirt just to fit the pattern piece onto the fabric.  I was worried this would have to turn into an ankle or midi-length dress, but it was worth the sacrifice to show off the design.  For once, I was thankful for being 5’3″ because the dress turned out to be just long enough!  I created a 1 1/2″ hem and it just hits the top of my foot.  Phew!

There were two choices to either make a dart or gather the fabric under the bust.  I opted for the gathers and made sure to push them more toward the center of each breast.  This helped eliminate any sagging fabric around the sides into the bodice.

It maybe hard to see (which is good,) but I also added two fabric covered buttons to the front yoke.  My fussy cutting into the border left me with too much negative space right at the bottom of the V-neck.  Unfortunately, I didn’t have much fabric left and couldn’t cut out another piece.  So I made due with what I had and added the buttons to balance out the print a bit more.  Do you think it works?

I’m in LOVE with this make and it’s the perfect relaxed statement dress.  I can wear it with clogs (shown here,) flat booties and then sandals in the spring.  I’m thinking this may come with me to Thanksgiving….

Project Summary:

 

Happy Sewing Friends!

Cristy

 

Fabric was provided by Télio Fashion Fabrics for this blog post.  Pattern was purchased by myself and as always, all opinions are my own.  There maybe affiliate links in the post.  

Disco Double Zip by Love You Sew

Gift Idea: Disco Double-Zip Pouch as a Toy Bag

It’s holiday gift-giving season already and I’ve been thinking about my handmade line-up for awhile now.  I don’t know if I’m just getting better at planning or if the consumer marketing seems to be pushing earlier.  It’s probably the latter, right?!?  So, I’m going to try to show you some of my favorite handmade gift ideas through the blog and on Instagram (without leading to any spoilers for my family!) to help inspire handmade for the holidays!

Fortunately, Sew Sweetness just released Season 2 of her Minikin patterns.  This collection includes 13 patterns (many with multiple sizes) and accompanying videos.  If you didn’t know already, I’m a huge fan of these patterns and love how unique they are.  (You can check out my Sidewinder from Season One here.)  The Minikins offer such a great variety of patterns and I love having the library of patterns available when I need a gift.

My youngest son was invited to birthday party for a little girl about a month ago.  It’s hard as a boy-mom trying to figure out what’s popular, so I figured handmade is the best way to never have the same gift as another guest.  Luckily, I had this great Alexander Henry Unicorn fabric already in my stash, because we know ALL girls (young and old) love Unicorns 😉  The Disco Double-Zip Pouch, even in the small size, provided great side panels to show off these magical creatures.

To really make this bag special, I used Red Glitter Vinyl on the bottom gusset to add some sparkle.  Although the vinyl is thin, it is still stiff and required a bit of wrestling along with a lot of clips.  You will need to make quite a few extra cuts into the seam allowance to sew around the curve of the side panels.  But, it’s all worth it!

When I first decide on this pattern, I figured this pouch would be great to carry little knick-knacks and maybe some markers.  But I quickly realized the compartments were bigger than what I imagined in my head.  My son’s friend could carry a lot of her toys in these generous pockets.  So, I thought adding straps would make the Disco Double-Zip more like a little carry-all.

I omitted the side handle and cut (2) 3′ x 18″ strips of the vinyl,  folded them lengthwise into fourths and sewed up both sides to create the straps.  Each short end was folded up by 1/2″, placed 1 1/2″ down from the top edge and 1 1/2″ in from the left/right of each side panel.   Tip: Use a Teflon foot and a larger needle to get through the layers of vinyl.

Since the straps were an afterthought, I used rivets to attach them to the bag.  But you could sew them on before attaching the zipper gusset to the side panels.  I also used the rivets on the Glitter Vinyl at the end of each zipper to give the bag a more professional look.

Disco Double Zip by Love You Sew

The mom of the birthday girl told me this bag was such a hit and her daughter carries it around everywhere!  My son’s friend loved the Unicorns mixed with all the sparkle and she is so happy that she can put so much in her own little bag.  I call that a success and hope you have someone who could appreciate a Disco Double-Zip Pouch just as much!

Project Stats:

 

Happy Holiday Sewing!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links for which I may receive compensation after a purchase has been made.  This helps fund the website and keeps the content rolling.  Thank you always for the support!

Blackwood Cardigan + Kila Tank with Indiesew

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It’s so easy to drop into the habit of just yoga pants and a hooded sweatshirt this time of year.  After camping and a very wet weekend, that’s all I really want to wear.  But I know I always feel better when I pull myself together and make some sort of effort on an outfit.  That’s why I wanted to make this duster style Blackwood Cardigan to add a bit of (good) drama to my everyday.  It can go on top of any {tank + jeans} or {t-shirt + leggings} combo and look SO put together.

Most of the time, I find a pattern I would like to sew and then pair it with the right fabric.  But when I saw this Modal Waffle Knit at Indiesew, I knew I wanted to hack the Blackwood Cardigan and take advantage of the fabric’s incredible 72″ width of fabric!  What makes this the perfect cardigan fabric is the modal content, which is a semi-synthetic rayon that is SO silky to the touch and yet breathable.  It makes for the perfect layering piece.

If you follow my Instagram, you know I’ve been leaning toward more of this army green color for the season.  I want to always make sure that new pieces in my wardrobe work with what I already own.   This green is a great neutral to pair with denim and lots of the creams and blacks in my closet…so I know I’ll get lots of use out of it!

The Blackwood Cardigan is the first pattern I’ve sewn by Helen’s Closet.  The instructions were very straightforward and easy to follow.  This is quite a popular pattern so it was nice to see all of the different versions on the web before I made my first cut.  But like I said earlier, I wanted to utilize the great width of fabric on this waffle knit and extended the length by a straight 12″ from the bottom of the front, back and neck pieces.  With my serger, this made for a fairly quick sew, which is always so nice!

For the top-stitching around the neckline, the instructions say to use a zig-zag stitch, but I opted to use a straight stitch with wooly nylon in the bobbin.   I use this method around most of my knit necklines and it still allows the stitching to stretch a bit.  Another change is the addition of a toggle right at the bust line.  With the weight of the duster, the sides were pulling away from center and sitting more into my armpits.  I wanted to anchor them with some kind of closure but had to take into account the weight and stretch of the knit.  Luckily, I had the toggle in my stash and could sew them over the serged neckband seams to help distribute the tension.

As with most patterns and my 5’3″ frame, I had to shorten the sleeves by 2″.  I could have probably taken off 3″, but with a cozy cardigan I like to pull the sleeves over my hands on those brisk days.  With the knit cuffs, I also like to always angle in the seams at the fold.  So I took out 1/2″ on both sides of the pattern piece at the fold for a more fitted feel.

A great layer to have under the Blackwood is the Kila Tank.  This is a slim fit tank that uses around a yard of knit, so it’s stash friendly and another quick sew.  The neck and arm bands are attached in a very clever way and great for those who do not have a serger or coverstitch.  Even though I have a serger, I stayed true to the instructions and used my twin needle for the bands.  I love how it looks like ready-to-wear!   But since I DO have a serger, I may go back to the old method just to save some time 😉

The fabric is this soft Rayon Spandex Oatmeal and White Striped Knit from Indiesew which I was saving for a dress, but realized I need more of these staple tops.  There is always more fabric, right?!?  Be on the watch for a long sleeve tee in this same fabric soon….

To finish off my entire #memade outfit, are my Ginger Jeans.  These are my very first pair and also my first Closet Case pattern.  It’s taken me about a month to complete these jeans (because I needed a break after all the modifications,) but I’ll make sure to get into more detail with my fitting adjustments on a future post.

I’m so pleased with my simple outfit that’s churning out the bit of extra drama!  Do you like the duster look?

Project Summary:

 

This post was written as part of the Indiesew Blogger Team.  All opinions are my own.  There are also possible affiliate links for which I receive a small commission only if a purchase is made.

Fall Sewing :: Sunday Everyday Sweater and Ginger Jeans with Stylemaker Fabrics

Fall is my very favorite garment-making time.  I love being able to sew comfy clothes to go along with my favorite autumn activities like having bonfires and heading out to the pumpkin patch. Stylemaker Fabrics is an amazing resource to make all of that sewing happen.  Michelle, the owner, does her trend research and sources beautiful garment substrates.  Most often, these are deadstock fabrics, which are leftover from other manufacturer’s products.  I love being able to use these types of fabric as a small step to keep them out of our landfills.

Stylemaker Fabrics new fall release includes over 150 new fabrics and it was SO hard to narrow down what I wanted to make with these lovelies.  I battled between something fun with a lot of personality, like a large print maxi dress.  But I know I’ll get the most wear out of my “mom uniform” — a loose-stretchy top with a pair of jeans.  It sounds boring, but I knew I could take it all up a notch with my fabrics!

ginger Jeans

If I’m forced out of athleisure clothing, I only wear blue or black jeans…with the occasional olive twill pants thrown in.  So, I thought a pair of statement pants would help me elevate my fall wardrobe with color alone.  I could have a pair of comfort-zone skinny jeans made of this Stretch Cotton Sateen in solid Cranberry for a pair of Ginger Jeans AND have an interesting garment to bring life into my wardrobe.  This deep saturated gem tone is a great color that is a lot of fun, but  dark enough to be everyday chic.

I’ve made a few pairs of pants before like these Chi-town Chinos and have altered quite a few ready-to-wear pants, so I know the modifications I have to generally make.  It sounds like a lot to do, but you will get the hang of it as you test and see what works with your body shape.

With the Ginger Jeans, I made the following adjustments to the pattern:

  • Shortened length by 3 3/8″
  • Graded from an 8 waist to a 10 hip and back to 8 legs
  • Removed additional 1/2″ out of back yoke
  • Deepened crotch curve by 1/2″ to remove bagginess below the seat
  • Extended crotch curve by 1/2″ to eliminate the wedgie look
  • Made a 1/4″ calf extension to remove bagginess around the knees

If you are looking for hardware, Stylemaker fabrics carries plenty of kits you can find here.  I mixed up the zipper from a kit along with some hardware I already had in my own stash.

I’ve been wearing these pants around town to truly get a feel for them, and I’m impressed with both the stretch AND recovery from this fabric.  There is great movement without it being too constricting.  The Stretch Cotton Sateen in solid Cranberry  also doesn’t leave deep wrinkles like with 100% cotton fabrics, so that’s a huge perk for this Uber-mom driver!

Sunday Everyday Sweater

With the 90s on trend and athleisure still full swing, sweatshirts are either oversized (which looks ridiculous on 5’3″ me) or cropped,  which doesn’t work with my modesty level at all…I’m keeping this belly under wraps!   But, I figured I could work the short, boxy sweatshirt look , but still be covered with the cropped version of the Sunday Everyday Sweater by Ensemble Patterns.  This pattern has a generous fit with dropped shoulders and dolman-esque sleeves, but provides a slight cocoon shape with a hem band to keep everything at bay 😉

I made the Basic version before, which you can find here, and knew I could size down and still get the oversized look and feel I was going for.  My modifications are as follows:

  • sized down based on measurements to a 6
  • shortened sleeves by 2″
  • narrowed cuffs by 1/2″
  • shortened hem band by 3″ to maintain the cropped length

This Cozy Stripe Sweatshirt Fleece is such a dream!  It was the perfect weight for this pattern and the fleece on the wrong side of the fabric is just so incredibly soft.  I think the heather gray stripes must make it extra cozy 😉  This sweatshirt will definitely  be a wardrobe staple in the car-pool line.  I already want to wear it everyday!

Don’t forget to check out the rest of the Stylemaker Fall Tour inspiration and links here!  Tomorrow, Beth with Sew DIY will reveal her make.  Below is the entire tour card if you would like to follow along via Instagram as well.

What are you making this fall???

Happy Sewing Friends!

Cristy

 

 

Fabric was provided by Stylemaker Fabrics for this post.  All opinions are genuinely my own.