Category: Patterns

Pattern Review: Aida Top in Verona Voile

This post was originally published August 13, 2019 for the Imagine Gnats Blog.  Since the shop closed in early 2020, I have republished my contributors posts (with permission) to this blog.  I have included some additional thoughts and pictures after some real-life wear and tear.  Enjoy!

In Ohio, we are in the dog days of summer, and this hazy heat is beating down on all of us. It’s at the point of just scorching outside or freezing inside almost all buildings with the air conditioning blasting to compensate for the weather.

So, I’ve been on the hunt for a lightweight woven fabric and a shirt pattern with some nice ease for a loose and breezy top (enter my voile Aida top). I was so happy to see this Verona Voile (aff link) and had to have it!  Then all I could think about was pairing it with the Aida Top by Sew Liberated.

Fabric

When I first saw the Verona, I loved that it was voile. I love the lightweight characteristics of this type of fabric, but was curious to the fact that it’s a 50/50 of cotton and rayon. Well, now I can say that it’s a great combination because it allows more drape which makes for a great summer fabric.

If you look closely, you’ll be able to see the great puckered texture the Verona Floral Voile has after washing. It’s not like a seer-sucker with the same repeat waffle texture, but it’s like striped puckering which has been woven in. It’s absolutely gorgeous, and I became a quick fan…since I don’t have to worry about wrinkles anymore!

There are two colors of this Verona Voile Floral – navy blue and yellow. Since I just finished a few blue chambray projects, I wanted to add a little color to my wardrobe with the yellow.

It’s not a color I wear a lot, but I figured I’d go big with the yellow and large flowers since it WAS going to be a summer shirt after all 😉

Pattern

The Aida Top is a new addition to the Imagine Gnats pattern library, and I was pretty stoked to sew it up. It had everything I was looking for: lots of ease, shirt-tail hem, v-neck, button placket, AND written for lightweight woven fabrics.

I was mostly drawn to the v-neck button placket because its a popular style I’ve been seeing with strappy tanks lately.

Based on my measurements, I am an 8 in the bust and also in the waist. With my hips (that don’t lie), I clock at a size 12. With all the ease in this top and after reading some other reviews, I felt pretty comfortable sewing a straight size 8.

You can see in the profile shot of the shirt that the voile Aida top still clears my backside with room to spare! Woohoo!

There are two views of the Aida with either a flat-front or with gathering, and I chose the latter. I like the extra shaping and added texture it has. I also sewed the shirt-tail hem as written, but I think a cropped boxy version would also be great in this pattern.

My arms are on the heavier side for a size 8. RTW woven shirts are generally tight around my biceps and were always tough for me to find since I didn’t want to wear something that was then bigger everywhere else.

My arms fit into the sleeves as drafted, but I wanted a little more ease to be consistent with the look of the top. I reduced the seam allowance by 1/4″ for a little extra breathing room. I also added a 1″ cuff on each sleeve for an extra detail and visual interest.

Since I love to use buttons from my MIL’s old stash, I found 5 black ones which were pretty close matches. The pattern calls for 7, but I thought 5 was enough.

Even though I didn’t use the recommended 7, I do wish there was a button template just to know where to place the top button. I had to do a good bit of trial and error to figure out where it should go while keeping a flat neckline, but everything did work out!

The Aida Top in this Verona rayon/cotton voile is just a dream shirt for the summer. I wore it during a heat wave and was so impressed with the airiness and soft feel….making the heat (slightly) more bearable 🙂

I hope you grab some of this fabric and make a voile Aida top of your own soon!!!

{Edited May 2, 2020}

Since making this top in August, I’ve worn it at least another dozen times and have yet to iron it –so the textured voile is definitely a winner!  The fabric washes well and the texture is still perfectly waffled.  I just broke it out for the first time this year since the temperatures jumped about 20*F.  But with Covid-19 quarantine and all the additional baking happening… I need some coverage while still being  breathable, and this is it.  The  Aida is still a winner in a my book!  Below are updated links if you would like to make your own:

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my disclosures here.

Pattern Review || Fibre Mood Holly Dress

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Things got pretty busy around the holidays, so it’s about time I get back to the blog.  I can’t believe it’s March already and I’m just getting around to reviewing the Fibre Mood Holly Dress I made back in November!  We are in the midst of Covid-19 self-quarantine and blogging a bit is helping me deal with the current environment along with feeling some kind of accomplishment for the day.  I hope this post brings some distraction to all of you at this unbelievable time in our world.

With the 2019 fashion trends bringing “prairie” style along with bold statement sleeves, I was on the hunt for a pattern that was still modern and not full “Laura Ingalls Wilder.”  Then I happen to see a version of the Fibre Mood Holly Dress on Instagram and knew it was for me!  I loved the clean high collar, full sleeves with button placket and the perfect midi length!

Pattern

I had never made a Fibre Mood pattern before.  The company is a European based sewing magazine (available in several different languages) which also sells their digital patterns a la cart here.  When I purchased this pattern in November of 2019, there are a few things to note about the pattern:

  • It  was available only in A4 paper sizing
  • You had to add in your own seam allowances (SA)….to every single pattern piece.  Yikes!  I’m not used to doing that, since I’m accustomed to US patterns which includes the SA already.  But, I still wanted to make the dress badly and was willing to take the extra time
  • Since purchasing this pattern, Fibre Mood has started to add SA to their new pattern launches and has made their digital patterns available in US Letter and AO (copy shop) formats.  This pertains to only the new patterns being released in new magazines, but they might go back to old patterns.  I’m crossing my fingers!

The nice thing about a pattern without SA, is that you can tissue-fit it without having to do all of the math (subtracting the seam allowances) to your body.  The down-side is this process is VERY time intensive…even with the double pencil trick!

Fabric

I fell in love with this Telio polyester crepe over the summer with leopard also making its resurgence as the hot print of the moment.  Since everyone and their mother is wearing animal print, I wanted to enjoy the trend but be a little different in this bold orange and blue combo.  I purchased a few yards with no plan in mind until I found the Holly Dress.  I paired this fabric with the pattern to really make the dress more modern to balance to the high neck and more traditional ballon sleeves.

The fabric is lightweight with fluid drape and needed to be cut with care due to it’s shiftiness.  I did not cut on the fold and opted to cut everything out as one layer of fabric.  This crepe is also semi-sheer so you would need a lining, but I opted to just wear a slip underneath the dress afterwards.

Construction

I measured between a 38 and a 40, but opted for the 40 since I needed the clearance over my hips.  Although I made a straight 40, next time I will widen the shoulder and possibly add a little length to the sleeve….which is surprising because I am 5’3″ and usually have to narrow the shoulders with American patterns.  Other modifications included:

  • Omitted belt for a solid RTW one – I knew I wanted to tone down the pattern just a little bit to eventuate the waist and not be completely lost in the print.
  • Used basting stitches to help set in the sleeve (they were not part of the instructions.)
  • Swapped out the 24″ invisible zipper for a 16″ which I had on hand – There was still plenty of clearance to get the dress on and off

  • Hacked in pockets using the Derby Dress pattern pieces – This is my go-to pattern piece when I want in-seam pockets.

  • Narrowed the neckband by 1″ in total by taking out (2) 1/2″ wedges where the band meets the shoulder seams.

  • Made fabric covered buttons for an elevated look using a kit similar to this.

Final Thoughts

Overall, I really love this dress.  The fabric and pattern were a perfect pairing for my style and wardrobe needs.  I’ve worn it out for date nights with my husband and can’t wait to bring it into spring!  I would definitely make this pattern again, just with a slight widening of the shoulders and maybe a different length just for some variety.

What do you think about this dress style?  Are you into leopard print too?

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

 

This post may contain affiliates links.  You can read my full disclosure here.  I bought the fabric and pattern on my own.  But after making this garment, have since become a member of the Fibre Mood ambassador team.

Introducing The Tiny Sophia Bag

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We are in the thick of the holiday season and I thought I did some pretty good seasonal planning.  I made gifts for my nieces and nephew early since I went to visit them in November and even got my fancy holiday dress finished by my husband’s birthday a few weeks ago.  But then I shared my Tiny Sophia Bag with all of you on Instagram and my feed (DMs too!) filled up with requests for this pattern.  You caught me in a moment of weakness because I said, “Sure, why not?!  This is probably the time when you would like this pattern the most!”  So why not add another “thing” to the list…famous last words. Lol!

You can purchase the Tiny Sophia Bag here.

If you have been following my stories on IG, I shared these itty bitty purses by Jaquemus which I’ve been seeing all over the fashion reports.  Although completely useless as an actual purse (and WAY too expensive *eyeroll*) I still wanted one…but of course, in my own DIY way!  Spoiler alert – my way is MUCH more cost effective.

Over the summer, I toyed around with some paper templates to make a tiny bag for fun, but nothing really came out of it.  Then a visit back east to see my family made me really notice the wireless ear pods my brother was wearing.  Shortly after that, Lizzo came out on the red carpet with a tiny Valentino bag!  Combine these events and it made me wonder if the pods had a carrying case…aaaand if that case could also be a purse!

Namesake

As I was developing this pattern and making all of the prototypes, I knew this bag would be named after my niece, Sophia.  (All of my bag patterns are named after one of my nieces.)  Miss Sophia is a petite lil’ lady and the absolute CUTEST…just like this bag!  She is always game for a little fun and adventure, which makes her a great travel companion.  Since her dad was also part of the inspiration, it’s only fitting that this bag is named after her.

View B

Features

I know there are a ton of aftermarket pod cases out there and I thought a leather one would be chic and beautiful.  After a few hours (with my husband and boys at basketball practice,) I was able to draft a headphone case AND a bag by switching up the options.  This is no-sew pattern with two different views and the features can certainly be mixed and matched!

  • View A  “Mini Purse” – This has a strap on the top flap with a D-ring on the back and a snap closure.
  • View B “Accessory Case” – This has a bottom slot opening for a charger and the D-ring is set on the side.  A button stud is used as the closure.

View A

Hardware

The Tiny Sophia Bag requires rivet and snap or button stud installation.  This is assumed in the pattern (and I promise I will add more posts about how I install.)  I want to let you know my favorite suppliers:

  • Rivets:  For a long time, I set these just using just a hammer and anvil.  You can find these tools  in my shop, here.  Emmaline Bags carries a wide variety of sixes in different finishes. (Pictured above are the “small” rivets in Antique brass.)
  • Snaps: I’m a big fan of double-cap spring snaps from Gold Star Tool.  These are the same ones I used for my Kelly Anorak which you can find here. (On the cover photo, I have a size 20 ligne brass snap.)
  • Button Studs (screw on): These are THE best, since there are no special setting tools needed…just a screwdriver.  I grab most of mine from Amazon and I like the Tandy ones (when I’m in a pinch for timing since there is a store nearby.)  I think the 6mm/7mm head ones are a good proportion for this small bag.  (The 8mm head studs are used in my Kelly Waist Bag pattern)

New SVG Files

A big addition to this pattern release is the inclusion of SVG (scalable vector graphic) files which you can use with most electronic cutting machines.  I’ve always imported images and traced my own files, but have never created ones from Illustrator before.  So, I was pleasantly surprised to see how this pattern cut on my machine!  I have an old Silhouette Cameo with a straight knife and the cork cut so well on setting #7.  It did not like leather though…I’m hoping the rotary blades do much better.  There are three files for the different views and an extra one to combine all of the features together.  Please let me know what you think about this new feature!

Cutting by Hand

For those who don’t have a cutting machine, please know that I made all of these Tiny Sophia Bags by hand.  After making lots of leather bags and over a dozen of these minis, here are a few tips and tricks that will help you though.

  • I LOVE this heavy duty multi-blade craft knife set by Fiskars.  The different blades are great depending on the type of cut you need to make…my fave is the 1/2″ straight edge one.
  • The pattern essentially looks like a cross, so the edges are right angles.  If you match up the sides with a ruler, you’ll have a smoother (and more accurate) cut.
  • Use a metal ruler with a craft knife for the straight edges.
  • For thicker leather/suede, you might want to use a box cutter for a stronger blade and press down on the ruler so it doesn’t drag.
  • Speaking of blades, remember to use a new one that’s nice and sharp for clean cuts.
  • With the curves, try to find household objects like bowls that match to balance your knife against.
  • For the back D-Ring opening, one of my testers said a button-hole cutter like this one is great for cutting the edges.

Customize

There are so many different ways to customize your Tiny Sophia Bag.  Luckily, I have a nice stash of leather scraps from thrifting and from friends.  You can use leather, suede, faux leather, and even cork!  Based on the thickness of your substrate, you may have to adjust the position of the holes which is also covered in the the pattern 😉

Check out #TheTinySophiaBag on social media to see all of the different versions.  I like the extra stitching around the edges to make the bag look more polished (don’t forget to use that leather needle and teflon or walking foot!)  Many of my testers used decorative hardware too.  I can’t wait to see what you do!

If you are ready for the cutest little purse, you can grab the Tiny Sophia Bag pattern, here.  Use it to carry your trinkets, coins, and all the smartphone accessories.  One of my testers mad bags for her daughters’ dolls!  I’m adding one of these on my Christmas tree and will use it later to hang off my purse for my own headphones.

How would you use your Tiny Sophia Bag?

 

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my Disclosure, here.

Add a Phone Zipper Pocket to the Abbey Convertible Backpack

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The Abbey Convertible Backpack is my go-to bag when taking day-trips with my kids. I like having it out of the way but still being able to hold the essentials. But being a designer, I constantly have new ideas and wish there were different features with every bag I own.

On the back of the Abbey, there is a slip pocket. I added the feature with the intention that it would be a quick spot to hold your phone or keys without having to open the main compartment as frequently. But since I happen to wear my bag more as a backpack, I have to swing it around to access the pocket and felt that a slip pocket just isn’t as secure for an expensive smartphone — and BOOM, I have the idea for the back welt pocket hack.

Back Welt Pocket Tutorial

You will need the original instructions and templates for the Abbey Convertible Backpack which you can find here. Additionally you will need:

  • 6″ Zipper
  • 8 3/4″ x 12″ Lining Fabric + Interfacing (this is large enough to fit an iPhone 7+ with a thick Otterbox case.)

To make the Back Zipper pocket, you will omit all of the fabric and interfacing for the Slip Pocket and move through Step #41. (Please note I don’t have connectors added to my handle base at this point since I used leather and added them later.)

Draw a rectangle measuring 6″ x 1/2″on the wrong side of the Pocket Lining centered and parallel to the short side as shown. The Zipper will run vertically.  There should be 1 3/8″ above and below the rectangle and 3/4″ space to the right. 

Line up the Pocket Lining as shown with the right edge 1/2″ in and up 1/4″ from the sides of the Handle Base. Pin the Pocket Lining in place. Go back and follow Steps #21-28 to finish the pocket! Voila – a chic looking vertical zipper pocket to keep your phone or other valuables a little more safe as you sling the backpack around.

Since the Pocket Lining hangs vertically instead of horizontally, the weight of a phone would make it drag awkwardly and pull on the zipper.  So, the Pocket Lining needs to be anchored horizontally so the weight can hang straight down naturally.  To do this, flip the back of the bag right side up and sew directly below the Handle Base from corner to corner catching the Pocket Lining.  Back-stitch well.

This is the wrong side after securing the Pocket Lining.  The weight of the phone is evenly distributed and won’t distort the structure of the bag.

Additional Modifications

You know I cannot resist using leather in my personal bags!  I had this great glazed black upholstery leather I got from Tandy which I used to make a few Kelly Waist Bags.  The scraps are great for all of Abbey’s accents like the connectors, handle and closure tab.

I also used my other Abbey Backpack Zipper Cover and Button Stud Hacks which you can find here.  I like the clean look from the front and just love using button studs with leather.

Project Details

I hope you enjoy this hack and even use it for other projects!  Don’t forget to use #abbeyconvertiblebackpack and #loveyousewpatterns on social media so everyone can see your fabulous makes!

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

This post may contain affiliate links which I use to keep this website pumping along.  Please visit my Disclosures page for all  the info on my affiliate relationships.

Size Down the Maya + Harper Travel Changing Set for Playtime!

All of my sewing patterns are named after my nieces. Once a pattern releases, the namesake always gets a complimentary bag of her very own. But then, I was in a bit of a predicament when I named the Maya + Harper Travel Changing Set after my 4 and 2 year old nieces. What were were they going to do with full-size diaper changing sets???

I checked with my sister and she assured me there would not be a need for additional sets for her personal use. (Haha – Wishful thinking on my behalf!) But shortly after the pattern’s release, my nieces got their first Bitty Babies and the light bulb went off. I would make Maya and Harper “play” versions for their little babies!

First, you will need the Maya + Harper Travel Changing Set found in my pattern shop here. You will need the instructions for reference and the pattern templates. I highly suggest you make a full Changing Set first to understand the construction and assembly of the Pad and Clutch. Once you get comfortable, you can make the following changes to make this pattern kid-friendly.

Make the “Play” Changing Pad

First thing’s first. You will need to print out the pattern templates at 85%. This will shrink down the pattern enough for most typical baby dolls. Unfortunately, my kids were more into stuffies than dolls, so this 12″ bear will need all the diaper changing 😉

All construction steps remain the same. You will align the closure to the bottom line of the “Tab Placement” and cut your hook and loop fastener to match the Tab width. The finished measurements of the Pad should be approximately 20″ x 12″.

Make the “Play” Diaper Clutch

As with the Changing Pad, you will print out the pattern templates at 85% and cut out all the pieces except for the Strap (you will cut an entirely new piece.)

For Supplies:

  • Use a 7″ Zipper (at least 8″ overall) and omit the 9″ Zipper
  • Omit the D-Ring, Swivel Clasp, and Magnetic Snap (for a less fussy look, but feel free to add them back in for a fancier set!)
  • Add 2″ piece of hook and loop fastener
  • Cut 13″ x 3″ fabric and interfacing for a sew-in Strap

To make the Strap, follow steps #1-5 to double-fold and top-stitch it. Fold it in half with raw edges aligned. Baste ends together at 1/8″ and set aside.

Starting at step #12, make the Welt Pocket as instructed with a 7″ x 1/2″ Zipper opening and use the 7″ Zipper.

Since the Magnetic Snaps have been omitted, start at step #22 to center the hook and loop fasteners at the snap placement points with the length running parallel to the Zipper. Sew 1/16″ all-around the fasteners.

At step #26, replace the Strap with the D-Ring Tab. Keep the raw edges aligned so the Strap will be completely sewn-in later.

Finish the rest of the clutch by folding up each pocket by 4 1/2″ instead of 5 3/4”. Top-stitch, press and you’re little one is ready to practice parental duties!

Although my sister didn’t need another Travel Changing Set, I think this would be a great Mommy and Me set for yourself or for a friend who is expecting her 2nd+ child! I hope you enjoy making Maya and Harper Changing sets for all the kids (and parents) in your life!

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy