Hardware || Install Rivets by Hand

Of all the things I’m asked about in my sewing, I get the most questions about hardware.  It’s such an easy way to take a project to the next level like with the Megan Bucket Bag and Claire Foldover Clutch hack.  ‘Just an extra touch of metal can really take a bag from “homemade” to “handcrafted.”  That’s exactly what I was looking for in my bag creations.  Before I got a “fancy” hardware press, I installed all my rivets by hand for at least a year.  And even with the press, I still set them manually based on my needs.  Below is a quick video to show you how to install rivets and lots of my personal tips as well!

Megan Bucket Bag

Claire Fold-over Clutch

 

Materials

First, you need the right materials.  Below are the materials and links (some affiliate) which I use in the video.

  • Steel Jeweler’s Bench – This is a small but mighty block and handles all of my own personal hardware needs.  I used to set rivets on the basement floor (which you shouldn’t do, but we’ll discuss that later) and this block is such a game changer so I can use my own cutting table and not have to go down two flights of steps.
  • Fabric Hole Punch Pliers – This type of punch plier is by far my favorite.  The bed of the tool where you place your fabric is plastic vs. metal.  Some people like the metal bed because it will last longer, but I MUCH prefer the plastic bed because you will get better cuts and the actual hole bit will stay sharp longer.  Yes, the bed will begin to wear away but there is a replacement and each one will last you a long time…probably longer than the bit.
  • Rivet Setter – My preferred tool is this larger 9mm one because I personally use rivets with caps this large.  This will be able to set smaller ones too!
  • Concave Anvil – Since I’m using double-cap rivets, a concave anvil is needed to keep the shape  of the other cap, else it will completely flatten.
  • Hammer – I’ve used a few different hammers – small and large and I really like this Fiskar’s one.  The grip is comfortable and the 12 oz head allows for a good solid strike.  You can certainly use a mallet instead, but I’ve had good luck with just a hammer.
  • Double-Cap Rivets – These are the “small” rivets with an 8 mm head and 6 mm stem.  I use this size the most for decorative application and will move up to a longer stem for thick folded straps.  I prefer double to single cap rivets purely for inventory purposes to handle all of my needs.

Process

In the video, I take you through both leather and fabric applications which are pretty much the same.  I included a few tips but want to elaborate a little more based on my own experience.

  • Work at counter-height – For me, my results are MUCH better when I work at counter-height (while standing) versus working on the floor.  I know when you first start out, the concrete basement or garage floor might be the hardest surface you have and this is definitely how I started out with rivet application.  But there is something about leaning over a project that increases the arc (maybe?) of my swing and I ended up with a lot of crooked, ill-placed rivets.  So, if you can, I highly suggest working on an old table – over one of the legs for extra stability.

  • Select the right size rivet for EACH project – Initially, you may get the urge to just buy one size to fit all of your needs, but there is a reason there are SO many difference size combinations.  While the cap is more for aesthetics, the stem length is key in a proper application.  I recommend about 3-5mm stem longer than the thickness of your project when you finger-press down on it.  You want the stem to be long enough to mushroom into the cap.  Else, your project may pull apart later with use.  But you don’t want it so long that it could “over-mushroom” and damage the cap.  The extra length also provides more opportunity for a crooked installation.  So, that’s why you want to minimize your risk.  6mm and 8mm posts were pretty much all I used for a long time and then I expanded out later when I was working with thicker substrates

  • Hold Setter down at base close to rivet – This provides the most control so the setter is aligned and straight over the rivet.  If you hold the setter too high, the impact of the hammer may move the setter and you could get an unsightly imprint on the cap.
  • Spin the rivet between your fingers to check for a proper application (1:18 in video) – You know that the rivet is completely installed when you can’t rotate it between your fingers.  It shouldn’t be able to move at all.  If the rivet is still loose or you can still see the stem, go back and install again.

Abbey Convertible Backpack

If you do have a crooked installation or accidentally mis-aligned the setter on a rivet cap, I’ll show you how to remove a rivet with next week’s blog post.  Please share below if you have even more tips to help along fellow readers!

 

Enjoy!

 

Cristy

 

 

 


This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read about all of my disclosure here.

Megan Bucket Bag – Sewing Pattern

She is HERE!!!!!  What started as just a fun experiment in bag design (just for myself!) has turned into the latest new pattern, the Megan Bucket Bag.  This has been a labor of love with over a year passing since I first made it…..and then an extra month delay as the country locked down and I turned my efforts to PPE.  At times, it seemed like this pattern would never be published, but with all of your encouragement and an incredible tester team, it is available today in my shop!

Namesake

This bag is named after another one of my sweet nieces, Megan.  Every time I would see her, she always carried around a large purse and I knew a generously sized bucket bag would HAVE to be her’s!  She was always an avid reader and so this bag can carry around a small library if needed.  Megan loves  theater and has SUCH a beautiful voice.  It only made sense to have plenty of mix and match bag options for whatever “role” would come next.  Like my dear Megan, this bag is practical yet has just enough edge to stand out from the crowd.

Background

I’ve made nine different versions of the Megan Bucket Bag, starting with the OG, made with buttery taupe cowhide, which you can read about here.  This is STILL my everyday bag with the neutral color and has really held up well – as you would expect from genuine leather!  However, in order to turn this design into a bag pattern, I knew I had to edit it down.  For me, this is the hard part of creating patterns.  I had to adapt all of the features so that you could also make it in fabric, in leather, or a mix of both! This was another prototype version you can check out here.  This was my first fabric version I made while, of course, holding onto the leather details.  I still love that extra thin piece of leather on top of the strap….I’ll have to remember that for my next Megan bag!

Features

After teaching many bag classes and workshops, I know that many students want to make professional looking bags, but don’t necessarily have all the right equipment – including a heavy duty sewing machine.  So my goal with the construction, was to use some alternative techniques to take the bulk out of bag-making.  This helps to think outside the box so you can make bags with a wider array of equipment…not just industrial grade machines. “The Megan Bucket Bag is a fresh take on the classic slouchy bag silhouette, but with a more pronounced cube shape. The lines are clean with side seams hidden by overlays and rivets. There are two different views whether you want to make the Megan out of one fabric, or if you would like to use a raw-edge accent fabric to add a little more depth to the look.  With this pattern, you will learn different strap making techniques to take the bulk out of your fabric and gain ways to present a welt zipper pocket with plates or a cover. You will also learn an off-set bag technique for the overlays that won’t compromise your side seam stitching. There are plenty of options with snaps and the use of accent fabric for you to mix and match for your perfect bag.” This is a pattern for you to learn:
  • 2 -layer straps
  • Off-set overlay sewing to keep the integrity of the side seams
  • 4 different ways to present a welt zipper pocket with 2 plate options, a cover, or left bare.
  • Slip Pocket with an overlay
  • Connectors to help hold sides together
View A was designed for a single fabric and perfect for a newer bag-maker who wants to just use canvas.  This is a great way to start and learn new purse techniques without having to deal with other substrates.  However, this same version can be used with a single faux leather and still have a striking look. This view has a handy outside pocket with a cover to keep the look smooth and sleek but still has other details like the strap loops to add more interest. View B uses an accent fabric such as leather, suede, cork or vinyl that can be left raw edged without fraying.  These substrates are great looks to add more depth and texture to a bag.  The accent fabric is incorporated on to the side overlays, strap, and is used as decorative plating against the zipper pocket and slip pocket.  However, you can also swap out the accent fabric with some webbing to speed up your project. This pattern was written with mid-weight accent fabrics in mind with 2-3mm thickness to have enough structure in the strap.  However, I know there are a number of other fabrics you may want to use that are lighter and thinner – especially many types of cork.  Consider adding a second layer of accent fabric to the back of the strap as shown below.  Play around and see what you like!

Hardware

The main aesthetic element to the Megan Bucket Bag is the side overlay with a row of bright beautiful rivets.  Although I’ve used rivets for a long time with my bags, they were only in the patterns as alternation options for securing straps and such.  This time, the rivets are the featured stars and are not just for looks, but also for structural purposes.  They help secure the strap in place around the gorgeous O-rings.  This give such a strong, yet delicate look. To help hold the shape of the bag and keep contents safe, four sets of snaps are added to the lining.  They help keep the cube shape of the Megan while still staying slouchy like a good bucket bag does.  The purse can then be easily expanded by just releasing the snaps. Although the pattern includes the use of rivets and snaps, there are no actual instructions to install them.  Since there are SO many different types of hardware out there with multiplied by different tastes of the sewist, there was no way to include instructions for everything.  Rivets can be single sided and double-sided.  They can be shaped like pyramids, domes, or flat like burrs.  Snaps also have a number of  different sizes and features as well.  I prefer “spring” double cap snaps, but you can use magnetic or even sew-in snaps too!  This pattern allows you to use YOUR preference of material.   But just like with interfacing, you must remember to follow manufacturer’s instructions.  I’ll be showing my preferred methods of rivet and snap installations all next week, so keep an eye out!!! There are truly SO many different ways to make the Megan Bucket Bag.  If you are ready to make your own, click below for the pattern AND the hardware kits….it doesn’t get any easier, right?

|| Click HERE to shop the Megan Bucket Bag Pattern || 

|| Click HERE to shop The Hardware Kits ||

Project Details:

Tester Inspiration

There is nothing better than seeing all of your makes with my patterns.  Here are even more great versions from my testers to inspire your Megan Bucket Bag: I cannot wait to see all of your makes!!! Happy Sewing, Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my full disclosure here.

FREE Shuffle Card Holder Pattern

For my Newsletter subscribers, the Shuffle Card Holder isn’t a new pattern to you.  But in light of our current Covid-19 shelter-in-place environment, I’d like to offer the Shuffle Card Holder pattern completely FREE without having to sign-up for anything.  This is a quick and easy project for raw-edge substrates and is a great stash-buster for all of the little bits of cork, leather, suede or vinyl you may have lying around.  If you have ever wanted to learn how to sew on these substrates, now is the time!  A small project like the Shuffle will make things bite-sized and manageable too.

The Shuffle Card Holder is designed with 3 pockets.  There are two in the front — perfect for an ID and debit card.  But there is also a third pocket which is hidden and a great spot for a little stash of cash and even a key!  The front and back are made from a single folded piece of fabric with all sides left raw.

For a more polished look, you can take the extra minute to add some top-stitching at all of the pocket openings.  It adds a nice finishing to make the card holder extra special.

TIP:  Use a Walking Foot for nice even stitches, especially on vinyl or cork where a regular presser foot could stick.

I love using the Shuffle Card Holder when I’m switching between purses and especially when moving into a smaller bag.  It goes perfectly with the Emma Stadium Bag to keep my money hidden at public sporting events and I also love using it with the Kelly Waist Bag to keep things as light as possible.

Emma Stadium Bag by Love You Sew

As we spend more time walking and taking bike rides, the cardholder is perfect for just slipping into your back pocket or in a bike pouch.

Kelly Waist Bag and Clutch

This is also a great way to present a gift card – especially to those who are working essential jobs or just a way to let someone know you are thinking about them at this time.  You can even pair it up with The Tiny Sophia Bag for a complete on-the-go gift set!

||    Click HERE for the FREE Shuffle Card Holder pattern!    ||

 

Project Details:

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

 


This post may contain affiliate links.  Please visit my Disclosures page for info.

Introducing The Tiny Sophia Bag

We are in the thick of the holiday season and I thought I did some pretty good seasonal planning.  I made gifts for my nieces and nephew early since I went to visit them in November and even got my fancy holiday dress finished by my husband’s birthday a few weeks ago.  But then I shared my Tiny Sophia Bag with all of you on Instagram and my feed (DMs too!) filled up with requests for this pattern.  You caught me in a moment of weakness because I said, “Sure, why not?!  This is probably the time when you would like this pattern the most!”  So why not add another “thing” to the list…famous last words. Lol!

You can purchase the Tiny Sophia Bag here.

If you have been following my stories on IG, I shared these itty bitty purses by Jaquemus which I’ve been seeing all over the fashion reports.  Although completely useless as an actual purse (and WAY too expensive *eyeroll*) I still wanted one…but of course, in my own DIY way!  Spoiler alert – my way is MUCH more cost effective.

Over the summer, I toyed around with some paper templates to make a tiny bag for fun, but nothing really came out of it.  Then a visit back east to see my family made me really notice the wireless ear pods my brother was wearing.  Shortly after that, Lizzo came out on the red carpet with a tiny Valentino bag!  Combine these events and it made me wonder if the pods had a carrying case…aaaand if that case could also be a purse!

Namesake

As I was developing this pattern and making all of the prototypes, I knew this bag would be named after my niece, Sophia.  (All of my bag patterns are named after one of my nieces.)  Miss Sophia is a petite lil’ lady and the absolute CUTEST…just like this bag!  She is always game for a little fun and adventure, which makes her a great travel companion.  Since her dad was also part of the inspiration, it’s only fitting that this bag is named after her.

View B

Features

I know there are a ton of aftermarket pod cases out there and I thought a leather one would be chic and beautiful.  After a few hours (with my husband and boys at basketball practice,) I was able to draft a headphone case AND a bag by switching up the options.  This is no-sew pattern with two different views and the features can certainly be mixed and matched!

  • View A  “Mini Purse” – This has a strap on the top flap with a D-ring on the back and a snap closure.
  • View B “Accessory Case” – This has a bottom slot opening for a charger and the D-ring is set on the side.  A button stud is used as the closure.

View A

Hardware

The Tiny Sophia Bag requires rivet and snap or button stud installation.  This is assumed in the pattern (and I promise I will add more posts about how I install.)  I want to let you know my favorite suppliers:

  • Rivets:  For a long time, I set these just using just a hammer and anvil.  You can find these tools  in my shop, here.  Emmaline Bags carries a wide variety of sixes in different finishes. (Pictured above are the “small” rivets in Antique brass.)
  • Snaps: I’m a big fan of double-cap spring snaps from Gold Star Tool.  These are the same ones I used for my Kelly Anorak which you can find here. (On the cover photo, I have a size 20 ligne brass snap.)
  • Button Studs (screw on): These are THE best, since there are no special setting tools needed…just a screwdriver.  I grab most of mine from Amazon and I like the Tandy ones (when I’m in a pinch for timing since there is a store nearby.)  I think the 6mm/7mm head ones are a good proportion for this small bag.  (The 8mm head studs are used in my Kelly Waist Bag pattern)

New SVG Files

A big addition to this pattern release is the inclusion of SVG (scalable vector graphic) files which you can use with most electronic cutting machines.  I’ve always imported images and traced my own files, but have never created ones from Illustrator before.  So, I was pleasantly surprised to see how this pattern cut on my machine!  I have an old Silhouette Cameo with a straight knife and the cork cut so well on setting #7.  It did not like leather though…I’m hoping the rotary blades do much better.  There are three files for the different views and an extra one to combine all of the features together.  Please let me know what you think about this new feature!

Cutting by Hand

For those who don’t have a cutting machine, please know that I made all of these Tiny Sophia Bags by hand.  After making lots of leather bags and over a dozen of these minis, here are a few tips and tricks that will help you though.

  • I LOVE this heavy duty multi-blade craft knife set by Fiskars.  The different blades are great depending on the type of cut you need to make…my fave is the 1/2″ straight edge one.
  • The pattern essentially looks like a cross, so the edges are right angles.  If you match up the sides with a ruler, you’ll have a smoother (and more accurate) cut.
  • Use a metal ruler with a craft knife for the straight edges.
  • For thicker leather/suede, you might want to use a box cutter for a stronger blade and press down on the ruler so it doesn’t drag.
  • Speaking of blades, remember to use a new one that’s nice and sharp for clean cuts.
  • With the curves, try to find household objects like bowls that match to balance your knife against.
  • For the back D-Ring opening, one of my testers said a button-hole cutter like this one is great for cutting the edges.

Customize

There are so many different ways to customize your Tiny Sophia Bag.  Luckily, I have a nice stash of leather scraps from thrifting and from friends.  You can use leather, suede, faux leather, and even cork!  Based on the thickness of your substrate, you may have to adjust the position of the holes which is also covered in the the pattern 😉

Check out #TheTinySophiaBag on social media to see all of the different versions.  I like the extra stitching around the edges to make the bag look more polished (don’t forget to use that leather needle and teflon or walking foot!)  Many of my testers used decorative hardware too.  I can’t wait to see what you do!

If you are ready for the cutest little purse, you can grab the Tiny Sophia Bag pattern, here.  Use it to carry your trinkets, coins, and all the smartphone accessories.  One of my testers mad bags for her daughters’ dolls!  I’m adding one of these on my Christmas tree and will use it later to hang off my purse for my own headphones.

How would you use your Tiny Sophia Bag?

 

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 


This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my Disclosure, here.

Colleen Tote Bag Gemology Tour

Gemology Blog Tour with the Colleen Tote

Today is my day on the Gemology Blog Tour supporting my friend, Andrea Tsang Jackson and her new quilting book, Patchwork Lab – Gemology. I had the absolute pleasure of meeting Andrea earlier this year at QuiltCon – Nashville after following her on Instagram with her amazing quilt art for so long.  We met over coffee and had SUCH a great conversation about building businesses in the fiber arts world and also being immigrants in North America.  Our stories are very similar and one of the reasons why I was thrilled when she asked me to be a part of this tour!!!

Colleen Tote Bag Gemology Tour

This new Patchwork Lab – Gemology book is absolutely beautiful and jam-packed with designs featuring nine different gem shapes which you can adjust into four different sizes ranging from a 6″ to a 24″ square block. There are additional instructions to make 5 quilts and a sweet little coin purse. The great thing about the book is that it is not just another quilting book. There is SO much additional information about how light hits the facets producing different colors and info about birthstones themselves.  It really gives you extra appreciation of the blocks as you construct them.

I knew after seeing the book, I would use the  6″ block for the exterior of my Colleen Tote Bag pattern.  When I first designed this bag, the quilter in me wanted enough open space on the exterior to eventually use quilt blocks to add some fun flair to the outside.  I’m so glad I finally got a chance to make this happen with the Cushion cut pattern.

Fabric

There are great fabric suggestions in the book for many of the birthstones, but I decided to use my own stash and make up my own gem. The Swatch Chart reference sheet is definitely a must IMO. It helped me sort out my fabrics and was a great visual reference as I was piecing the block together.

I really wanted the gem to pop on a bag so I used the following in the magenta family: (aff links)

For the rest of the bag, I used:

To Make the Side Panel with Gem Block

With this bag, I knew I wanted the exterior to be quilted for the texture and also to help secure the block to the interfacing. When doing this for a bag, it is always important to cut the fabric larger than what is needed, quilt it, THEN come back and cut it to size. Quilting will always shrink down a block and can become pretty significant difference if you are using more lofty batting or interfacing.

Since the finished panel would be 20 1/2″ x 10″, I added 3″ wide borders to the top and bottom (referred to as the “sides” in the book) and then 12 1/2″ x 7″ to the sides.  Instead of using fusible fleece as the interfacing, I swapped it out with Pellon 988 Sew-in Fleece.

I used matching Aurifil 2535 to stitch-in-the-ditch around the gem and then on all the intersecting seams that ran completely across the the pattern.  For the background, I used Aurifil 2615 to sew 1″ blocks at a 45* angle, stopping when I hit the gem. The nice part about quilting a bag panel is that you can leave the thread tails and just tie them off without having to bury any of them!

To cut the panel and create equal spacing above and below the block, you find the center horizontally and cut 4 3/4″ below the line and then 5 1/4″ above the line. The measurements are not equal to account for the different seam allowances as written in the Colleen Tote pattern.

Other Modifications

Every time I make a pattern (whether my own or someone else’s) I can’t help but add some different features so each one is unique.  I believe that every bag has it’s own personality and calls out for different features. I made the following changes to this Colleen:

  • Extended the key fob to 16″ in total length
  • Added a interior D-ring
  • Added a magnetic snap to the interior band
  • Pieced the line with some of the Sangria Compass to bring some of the Gem colors to the interior
  • Added Purse Feet following the add-on instructions here.
  • Broke up the gray a little more on the exterior with some accent tabs and rivets.

I did this by using the scraps I cut out of the bottom accent fabric.  You will need (2) 3 1/2 x 1″ strips.  Fold each long side to the center creating a single-fold tape and top-stitch 1/16″ along each side.  Fold down each short end by 3/4″ with wrong sides together.

The trick to adding these tabs over the top of the bag is to fold the tab and cut those holes first.  Then place it over the edge of the bag and mark it just to the left of the side seam and cut the hole in the bag.  By moving the hole you won’t cut into the side seam but it will appear that the tab is centered from far away!  Add the rivet and now you have a cute tab that makes this look more high-end.

Please make sure you follow Andrea @3rdstoryworshop to keep up with the rest of the Gemology Blog Tour.  You can find her blog and shop her book here.

Tomorrow, Rebecca Makas is up with her Gemology Project.  Click to find her here.

I hope you enjoyed the new spin on the Colleen Tote Bag and all of the gemstone inspiration from Patchwork Lab – Gemology!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 


This post is in collaboration with Andrea Tsang Jackson for which I received a complimentary copy of her book.  //  This post may also contain affiliate links and you can read all the details in my Disclosures here.