Category: Hacks

Tutorial: Make a Simplified Rolled Handle with Less Layers

If you are looking to really make a bag look CLASSY, a rolled handle can instantly add that sophistication.  That’s why I added them into my Colleen Tote Bag pattern!  It adds more durability and strength than flat handles and the round style makes it SO much more comfortable in the hands!

The instructions for rolled handles in the Colleen are manageable on home machines….as long as you are going through fabric and not other substrates.  EIGHT layers of canvas can be managed with a heavy duty needle and increased stitch length.  However, if you want to make the same kind of handles with cork, vinyl or leather….you can pretty much forget about it — unless you have an industrial machine.  Well, now, you can still have these type of handles with your DOMESTIC MACHINE!!!  This tutorial will take you through an alternative method to make rolled handles with only 4 layers  — perfect for those thicker raw edge substrates!

Tutorial

Please note this rolled handle example is for the Erin Backpack, but the same technique would be the same for the Colleen Tote.

1. Cut the width of your handle 2x what you want the finished ends to be.  In this case, the ends need to be 1″ wide and the cork is cut 2″ wide.  (If you are making the Colleen Tote, you would want your handle to be 3″ wide and not 6″.)

 

2. Mark the center of the strap lengthwise

 

3. Add a very thin layer of glue on each side of the line you marked.

 

4. Fold each long side into the line you drew and clip to secure.  Make sure the sides meet each other in the center.  Wait until all glue has dried.

 

5. Mark how far up you would like the roll to start/stop.  For the Erin Backpack, I marked 1 1/2″ from each short end.  For the Colleen, it would be 2 1/2″.  Sew the Strap together 1/8″ along the folded sides and then crossing over at your mark.

 

6. Place a thin layer of glue along the center fabric seam,  in-between the top-stitching.  If you are making the Colleen Tote, this is when you would add your cording.  Since this handle is more narrow for the Erin, I’ve omitted any cording.

 

7. Fold long sides together , encasing the fabric seam but only in-between markings.  This created the “roll” of the handle.  Clip in place and allow to dry completely.

*Note how the handle ends have the fabric seam exposed lengthwise.  The glue and stitching will keep the strap intact but this is why this method is meant for non-fraying substrates only.

 

8. Top-stitch along the double-fold side in between markings. (You may need to increase stitch-length to handle the extra layers.) Backstitch well at the start and end of your stitching.

 

9. Double check that all stitching is secure.

 

10.  Optional – Add a rivet right above the end markings to keep the Rolled Handle extra secure.

 

Congratulations!  You have a rolled handle ready for any bag!!!

 

This is how the handle looks placed on the back of the Erin Backpack as part of my Sew Along you can find here.

 

I hope you enjoyed this easier alternative method to making rolled handles with your favorite cork, leather, or vinyl!!!

 

Happy Sewing!

 

Cristy

Tiny Sophia Bag HACK: Travel Sanitizer Holder

As the world goes on, we know washing hands and using sanitizer is LIFE right now. It is SO important to stay healthy and protect ourselves against all germs – pandemic or not!  Washing hands with soap is the preferred way to keep them clean, but when there isn’t a sink around hand sanitizer is a decent alternative. You can read more about the benefits of hand-washing here with the CDC.

Like all of you, I want to keep my family safe and have sanitizer on them at all times – especially as school opened up for my kids. But of course, supplies have been (and still are) very bare.  Trying to find those manufactured jelly style travel sanitizer holders was just impossible. That’s when I took it upon myself to make cases for my kids and husband.

Different size travel bottles

It turns out that the Tiny Sophia Bag (read about it here) is the right width to hold most travel sanitizers! The height just needs to be adjusted and that’s where this hack was born. This hack will take you through the steps to transform your #tinypurse to a sanitizer holder for most 1-2 oz travel bottles.  I tried to find a variety of bottles to test so you can see how they fit and decided to create one version for bottles from 1-1.6 oz and then another version that can fit 2 oz bottles.  If you are using bottles different from any of those pictured, be sure to check the template against your sanitizer BEFORE cutting any material.

2 oz Holder vs 1 oz Holder

 

 

Materials Needed:

  • The Tiny Sophia Bag pattern – found here
  • Ruler
  • Extra paper
  • Marking Instrument
  • Clear Tape

Tutorial

***Please note there are adjustments depending on whether you are making a holder for a 1.0-1.6 oz. bottle versus a 2 oz. bottle.   Please read instructions carefully.

1. Cut the pattern template out per instructions. Mark the cut line along where the bottom flap meets the sides.

2. Take a scrap piece of paper (wider than the bottom flap) and mark a 1″ high extension for 1-1.6 oz. sanitizer bottles. *If you have a 2 oz. bottle, you will want to mark a 2″ high extension.

3. Cut the bottom flap off the bag template following your markings

4. Line up the top of the pattern along the extension and tape into place.

5. Take a ruler and mark the right side of the extension aligning it to the Top flap’s side edge.

6. Repeat on the left side of the extension.

7. Line up the bottom flap to the lower side of the extension making sure it matches the side markings.

8. Trim away the excess paper.  Mark a line 1/2″ from the top of the extension. *If you are making a 2 oz. bottle holder, mark a line 1″ from the top of the extension.

9. Use a sanitizer bottle cap as your opening.  (This replaces the Charger Opening.)  Center it vertically on the template and place it just under mark made in the previous step.  Trace.

10. Carefully cut out the circle with paper scissors.

11. Check that the sanitizer bottle you want to use fits through the opening on the template. Adjust as needed.

12.  Check that the template fits around the bottle by aligning the hardware holes.  Adjust as needed.  Once you are satisfied with the fit, follow the steps in The Tiny Sophia Bag to finish your  travel sanitizer holder!

Notes:

This cork version uses the 1 oz adjustment, but if I were to make it again just for this style of sanitizer bottle from Bath & Body Works, I would make a slightly wider opening to accommodate  that wider flip-cap.

I added stitching to all of my samples in this post, but you don’t have to.  Using faux leather with felt backings like these pictured above leave no fraying and make this a fast and simple project.

With the holidays ahead, these will make such great gifts!  So I will switch up the hardware to swivel clasps on the back so they can hang easily from key chains, purses and backpacks.

Where to find supplies:

  • For Cork or Faux Leather, I’m a big fan of Sew Sweetness.  Shipping is flat-rate, fast and I think a great deal!
  • For real leather and a variety of finishes, TanneryNYC has remnant bags.  I received small – medium sized cuts and was able to make several Tiny Sophia Bags out of the surprise shipment. These are high quality pieces of soft leather.
  • I love Emmaline Bags and By Annie’s hardware, but if you are looking for a value set for kids, I recently bought these (pictured on yellow case) and these from Amazon.
  • For Snaps, I used spring style ones from Gold Star tool, but recently fell in love with these Rivet Magnets from Kam Snaps (as seen with the pink cork version above.)

 

I hope you enjoy this hack and find it useful in our current environment.  Please drop a comment and let me know what you think!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Any earnings go right back into powering this website.  Please read my Disclosures here.

Add Puff Sleeve Drama with a Sheridan Sweater Hack

This post was originally published on the Hey June Handmade Blog in January, 2020.  Edits are in italics and additional pictures have been added (since I love this pattern SO much!)

When I first hacked this Sheridan Sweater for the Hey June Handmade Blog, I had no idea it was going to become one of my MOST worn tops. Prior to March, life was pretty normal while we were just starting to hear about the pandemic. My social world was still moving along and was able to wear my Sheridan to Lunar New Year celebrations (as planned!), Galentine’s Day fun with my girls, and was my go-to for a night out.  I knew even back then that I wanted another Sheridan.

After a #sewingfail with the wrong fabric (it was a red and cream colored stripe that clashed and looked HORRIBLE with my skin tone and hair highlights,) I was ready to make another.  This time I wasn’t going to mess around.  I knew I would ADORE my new Sheridan because I used…the same hack…and the same fabric as my OG…just a different color!

 

Back in early December, I knew I needed a new red top.  My one cardigan just wasn’t enough for all of the holiday school parties, concerts, church events and even family get-togethers.  I wore that one piece of red clothing OUT and knew I needed something else to add to my festive wardrobe.  But did I really need a new top???  Did I really want to make one??? Then the Sheridan Sweater was launched and my questions were answered.

All of my internal fighting against wanting “another” knit top disappeared.  After seeing the Sheridan launch, my mind switched and I bought the pattern right away.  Of course, I need  a new red top!  It WILL work through the holiday season, AND into the Lunar New Year AND be useful for Valentine’s Day school parties!  Why wouldn’t I need the Sheridan Sweater in my life?!?

Adrianna did a fantastic job designing the different views and I’m obsessed with the seamless funnel neck, which I haven’t seen in any other DIY pattern.  The Sheridan Sweater also has the big statement sleeves which is on still on trend and I knew both of these features would really stand out in red.  But since this was going to be my all-winter holiday top, I wanted to bring it up juuuuust an extra notch.

FABRIC

I found this beautiful textured waffle knit from Telio fabrics.  One of the reasons this sweater has been on constant wardrobe repeat is the fabric.  As a poly/spandex blend, the color saturation is on point.  After all of the washing and drying I’ve done, the color still looks as intense as day one.  I was concerned that the texture might be lost over time with dryer heat, but it’s all still there!

The Paola Pique Liverpool’s medium weight was a perfect complement to this pattern.  It has great body and really shows off the full sleeves.  The stretch and recovery is also very nice.  When I pull up on the sleeves and adjust the waistband, it  holds it’s size well and doesn’t stretch out over the course of the day.  This fabric comes in so many rich jewel tones that I had to have the Emerald.  The pictures come up more teal, but this color swings more to the green side in-person.

TUTORIAL

I figured if I was going red, I wanted to make the sleeves stand out even more. So….I hacked the sleeves to be more voluminous in the sleeve head for All. Of. The. Drama.  Below is my quick and definitely non-technical way to achieve that extra shoulder poof.

1. Take the sleeve pattern and make a copy.  (I traced the pattern onto some Swedish tracing paper I had on-hand.  I like using this since it’s more pliable than regular paper and can be pinned/sewn without being destroyed.)

2. Divide the sleeve into approximately 4 equal sections by width.  With the nice notch markings already drafted as part of the pattern, I used these as guide when splitting the sleeve.

3. Cut the pattern to separate these sections from the sleeve head all the way down to the cuff, but NOT cutting through.  All of the sections should be hinges and able to move.

4. To start, I added 1” in between each section.  I placed scrap paper underneath the pattern, and hinged each section out by 1” at the sleeve cap.  Then I taped the pattern onto the scrap.  Repeat 2 more times between the sections.  If you would like more volume, you can increase the hinge widths.

5. To get the extra volume at the top of the cap, I added 3/4” to the top and blended the line back to the notched parts of the cap, all while following its shaping.  Again, if you want a little more puff in the sleeve cap, feel free to add a little more to length to the top.

6. At the cuff line, true up the pattern so it is straight again.

At this point, I cut out the pattern and did make a muslin, but only had quilt cotton on hand.  It gave me an idea of the extra volume and shape added to the sleeve.  I did have to consider the extra weight and stretch with the knit fabric.  But it was still good enough for me and I went ahead to cut into the main fabric.

To insert the sleeve, I made gathers between the sleeve notches not exactly knowing how it would all look.  But I ended up marking 3” on either side of the shoulder seam and pushed all the gathers in between those markings.  I basted the sleeve into place and was very happy with the result!  With that, I finished sewing the sweater and have never been more pleased!

This hack turned out exactly like what I wanted and just love how “extra” the sleeves are.  The additional gathers and volume in the sleeve cap really balance out the overall ease in the sleeve and I love the extra long cuff to show it all off.  This top is pretty fancy and ready for every occasion now.  It’s still comfy in a stretch knit, but also so incredibly unique and special!

Project Summary

  • Pattern: Sheridan Sweater by Hey June Handmade; View: B; Size 10
  • Mods: Narrowed shoulders by 1/2″ each, increased the cropped length by 1″, used Puff shoulder hack above
  • Fabric: Telio Pique Liverpool Knit from Fabric.com in Hermes Red and Emerald

This hack can be used on just about any pattern with a set-in sleeve.  I may have to try it on a woven pattern this fall/winter.  Please let me know in the comments if you use this hack!  I would love to hear what you think!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read my full Disclosure here.

 

Emma Stadium Bag Hacks with Twill Tape

The best part about writing patterns is coming back and hacking them! I’m constantly inspired by the runways and the latest fashion trends. When I wrote this Emma Stadium Bag hack for Sewn Magazine (April 2020,) I noticed how straps were becoming the main focus on bags. They were produced in different fabric from the main bodies and were made in all sorts of distinctive colors and contrasting patterns…making the straps REALLY stand out.  Many brands were  offering customization with mix and match options which help to make a bag feel like it was made for you. I love a good statement strap as seen with my Guitar Strap Tutorial here and my play on a fringed Festival Bag here.  Needless to say, I couldn’t resist making my own designer inspired version.  Can you guess the high-fashion label that was my muse?  Now, you can really make a full personalized bag with the Twill Tape hack below!

Materials Required

Cutting

  • Cut fabric and vinyl per instructions minus the strap pieces.
  • Cut (2) 7 1/2” lengths of the Twill Tape. Heat seal each end of the tape with the lighter. Set Aside.

Strap

  • With the remaining Twill Tape, heat seal each end of the tape with the lighter.  *If you are using a 100% cotton tape, you won’t be able to heat seal.  Sew 1/8″ at each raw edge to keep it from unraveling.  Back-stitch well.
  • Follow the instructions in the pattern to thread the strap through the 1 1/2” slider and (2) 1 1/2” Swivel Clasps.
  • Use (2) Rivets to secure each end of the strap (4 rivets total) or sew into place.  This video can help you through adding rivets.

Pocket

  • This was omitted to let the twill tape stand on its own and not detract from the overall look.

Zipper Top

  • Make with the SHORT D-Ring tab option.  Although the photo shows the vinyl already attached, you will only have the Zipper Top completed at this point.

Vinyl Bottom

  • After marking the center of the vinyl bottom on the wrong side of the vinyl, mark 3/4” out on either side of the center. These lines will be used as sides for the Twill Tape.
  • Flip the vinyl over and line up Twill Tape within the markings. Top-stitch along the Twill Tape 1/16” into place. Optional – Add another row of stitching down the center of the Twill Tape. Repeat on other side of the body.
    • TIP: Sew down the sides of the Twill Tape in the same direction to avoid possible shifting.
  • Finish sewing the rest of the vinyl bottom, making sure to align the Twill tape when sewing the bottom seam.
  • With the Twill Tape facing up, sew the seam allowance to the body between 1/8″ – 1/4″ from the seam.
  • Finish the bag and wipe away any markings on the vinyl.

D-Ring Accent Tabs

I love the look of extra texture on the Zipper Top and these tabs provide such nice details…especially with the addition of rivets.  However, if you tried to make only these long tabs with fabric, they would pull and go vertical when worn.   The D-ring would also be sliding all across the tab and the weight distribution on the strap would definitely be off.  So when I was trying to decide how I could I could have the look, it dawned on me, that I could literally combine the techniques of the short tab and these riveted accent one.   I developed this “double D-ring” method to have the visual appeal AND have the security of a shorter tab.
  • To make, take the 13”x1” strip of fabric –
    • (Bottom and middle strips) Fold each long side toward the center, wrong-sides together making 1/2” single-fold tape.  Press well
    • (Top strip) Top-stitch 1/16” along each long edge
  • Cut in half length-wise so there are (2) 6 1/2” tabs. With each tab, fold each short end inward with wrong sides together by 1/2”.   Press.
  • Fold the entire tab in half, wrong sides together.  Press.
  • Glue down each 1/2” folded end.
  • Slide the Accent Tab equally through the 1/2” D-Ring with right side facing out.
  • With the D-Ring tab fully extended, mark the Accent Tab placement so it is parallel to the zipper and next to, but not pushing into the D-Ring.  Glue the Accent Tab into place.
  • From the edge of the tab, mark at 3/8” and 1 1/4” for rivet placement.
  • Use the fabric hole punch to cut through the Accent Tab, Main Fabric, and Lining.  Attach rivets using your preferred method.  You can check out this hand application video here.
  • Repeat on the other side of the same Accent Tab. Then repeat for the second Accent Tab. You will attach 8 rivets altogether on the Accent Tabs.
  • Attach the Strap to the D-Rings and you are ready to rock out in style!  How do you like the D-ring illusion?
If you are looking for other ideas to get the most out of your Emma Stadium Bag pattern, check out this post on how to add a leather hook and the Intro post here with tester versions.   Happy Sewing! Cristy  
This post may contain affiliate links which help keep this website and content rolling.  You can read about all of my Disclosures here.