Category: garments

Raspberry Dress by Love You Sew

Raspberry Dress Tester Review

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Raspberry Dress by Love You Sew
Last month (when I had time and the kids were still in school) I had the opportunity to make one of CocoWawa’s patterns, the Raspberry Dress!  I had never made one of Ana’s patterns and just discovered her IG feed and designs earlier this year.  So, I was very excited when she asked me to try one out…especially to learn this (new to me) shirring technique!

The Raspberry Dress also comes in Jumpsuit and Playsuit views all sharing the same shirred bodice.  There are also three different strap options along with pockets (!!!) to mix and match with the bottoms.  One of the nicest options is that the pattern is available in BOTH English and Spanish!  More of our global sewing community can enjoy this make!!!  You can check out all the different versions and other tester inspiration here on the CocoWawa blog.

Fabric:

I purchased this Robert Kaufman Chambray double-gauze (affiliate link) years ago (maybe four or five?) for a specific dress, but after hearing so many bad reviews from my friends, I decided to never make it.  So, this fabric has sat on my shelves until I could find the right project to use up all three yards of it…and here it is!

Double-gauze is exactly what its name tells you.  This fabric is made of two separate layers of cotton gauze, known for it’s open weave making it very light and airy.  Double gauze is created when the two layers are joined with little stitches at regular intervals throughout the fabric.  Usually, the conjoining stitches are undetectable from the right side, but in my case,  the stitches created the gorgeous dobby texture.  Double gauze is more opaque with the added layer, yet still has the breathability — perfect for hot weather.  That’s why this fabric was THE perfect choice for the summery Raspberry silhouette.

Shirring:

The main feature of this pattern is the shirred bodice.  Essentially, you are sewing in elastic thread to gather woven (non-stretch) fabric to then make it stretchy.  The bodice starts out at twice the width you see and you sew row after row, while gathering the fabric to get it smaller.  I’m so happy Ana provided the actual machine settings for the shirring.  I used a small 70 needle for the delicate double gauze and hand-wound my elastic bobbin thread as instructed.  With the lightweight fabric, the shirring worked on my first try (true shocker!)  I would imagine that heavier fabric would not pull back as much as this double-gauze.

With elastic thread, you can’t back-stitch, which gets a bit tricky. I left long thread tails at the start of each row to tie off, but ended up cutting them off when I overlocked the side seams. To make sure the elastic thread wouldn’t detach with wear, I sewed the side seams twice and shortened my stitch length to about 1.8-2.0mm on the second pass.

Shirring takes time…my tip would be to be patient and take breaks between every two or three rows because my hands had to fully stretch out the fabric to make sure it ran through the machine straight and evenly.  They would cramp up otherwise, holding all of the fabric taut and steady.

Dress Version:

Out of all of the different views of the Raspberry, I knew I would wear the dress the most (I’m still warming up to the jumpsuit game!)  I’ve been looking for more midi to maxi length dresses for this summer and the length worked for my 5’3″ frame.  I chose the simple thin straps to tie off in bows.  With the added ruffle, a simple strap would balance it all out.

Modifications:

  • Sewed a narrow hem at the neckline since I did not want a wide ruffle at the top. I compensated for this and added an extra row of shirring to keep the neckline closer to my body
  • Shortened the bodice by two inches to keep the shirring above my belly button.  (I’m just particular and prefer to not have the fabric rub on my pooch. Lol.)
  • Omitted the skirt elastic entirely since it wasn’t laying flat with my light fabric.  And since I WAS working with light fabric, the shirring could hold the weight of the skirt and not be dragged down.
  • Shortened the skirt by 6″ —  2″ came from the top (since I screwed up while overlocking and accidentally cut into my fabric…whomp…whomp…  Fortunately, I’m petite and didn’t throw off the placement of the in-seam pocket. Phew!) The remaining 4″ came off the bottom.
  • Added a ruffle all around the skirt using the remaining fabric I had – (2) 56″ x 6″ lengths of fabric gathered and sewn to the bottom with a 1/2″ closed hem.

Project Details:

I hope you enjoyed this make and can use some of the tips as I worked through the tester version of the Raspberry Dress!  Please let me know if this helped you in the comments below!

 

Happy Summer Sewing!

Cristy

 

As a tester, the pattern was provided to me for feedback.  This blog post was not required as part of the testing process.  All thoughts and opinions are my own (as always.) 

Sewing the Persephone Shorts

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Like everyone and their mama, I scooped up the Persephone Pants pattern by Anna Allen Clothing last summer. I made these shorts last summer as well…and even took the pictures…but this post was left on the back burner while I had other blog deadlines to fulfill. While pulling clothes for our spring break trip, I was reminded inspired to finally finish this review — especially for all of you who are heading into shorts season as well!

The inspiration behind this pattern were the wide-legged, high-waisted sailor pants from the 20-40s. The Persephone drafting is unique in that there are no side seams which made fitting a little different, but still doable with a muslin. These shorts are my wearable muslin since I could work on the fit around the waist and hips, but save all the fabric from the legs.

These pants feature a hidden button fly, but Anna released the zip fly expansion pack after I made these. When I make the full pants, I would like to use a zipper to make getting them off and on more easily. Also, I’ve been getting creasing at every space between the buttons, so I think a zipper will help smooth that out.

With the hidden button fly, I figured I could also get a bit crazy with the buttons. I’m still working through my MIL’s old stash and couldn’t find five matching colors in the same size. But I did find five with the same size and just alternated the colors.

Even though these Persephones were a muslin, I still wanted them to be fun…and you know I love surprise garment guts! With this great Olive Cone Mills denim, I reached into my quilt cotton stash and found this print by Sarah Watts. The colors go so well with the denim and who doesn’t love some lions?

I used the quilt cotton on the fly facing as well as with both in seam pockets. You can see I fussy cut the pockets and love how they turned out. However, these are pretty small pockets and can only hold a small set of keys or some chapstick. I’ll still keep them in my next pair, but will add some back pockets for more storage.

With almost all pants, I know my measurements run between two, if not three sizes. I cut a size 8 in these Persephone shorts and graded the hips out to a 10. I left the rise as it was drafted, but at 5’3″, the top of the waistband sits about 1 1/2″ above my belly button. Although, I love the super high-rise look, the pants push a bit too high when I sit. Next time, I will reduce the rise by ~1″.

My fit issues are always around my booty. There was lots of back and forth with baste fitting going on, but I was able to work out the following:

  • Increased each dart on the fold by 1/4″ (1/2″ total) which was 1″ taken out of the waist overall.
  • Low buttocks adjustment – Extended each dart by 1 3/8″ to where the curve is extended out the most. I had to do this after seeing the dart poke out rather than sit smoothly on my backside.
  • Took an additional 1/4″ out of the center back (1/2″ overall)
  • Scooped out the seat by 1/4″ to reduce wrinkling around the back thighs. But since I already cut the fabric, I couldn’t compensate and add 1/2″ to the crotch length. You can see there is a slight “wedgie” effect since I didn’t lengthen the seat. But after a year’s worth of wear, this non-stretch denim has really molded to my shape. The fabric has actually relaxed more in the seat and I’m not seeing (or feeling) that wedgie anymore! Not all fabric is as forgiving, so I’ll definitely make sure I add in the extra fabric with my next make.

Overall, I LOVE the fit of these Persephone shorts. I have always had a hard time finding RTW shorts with room for my thicker thighs…especially when seated. The wide cut gives me so much ease around my thighs while the high-waist provides such beautiful shaping.

I have a whole winter’s worth of bottom weight scraps and can’t wait to make a few more pairs of these shorts for the summer ahead! Are these in your summer sewing queue?

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

Project Summary:

  • Pattern: Persephone Pants by Anna Allen Clothing; Shorts View
  • Fabric: Olive Cone Mills Denim from Imagine Gnats
  • Lining: From the August fabric collection by Sarah Watts for Cotton + Steel
  • Thread: Gutermann Denim for Top-stitching and Gutermann all-purpose poly for piecing and tacking the carriers.
  • Machines: Juki TL-2010Q, Singer Quantum Stylist (for buttonholes), and Juki MO-2000QVP

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DIY Spring Sportswear Capsule

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At the beginning of the year, I made a promise to myself to get more physical activity into my life. Working from home is absolutely wonderful for its flexibility and the fact that I could work in my pajamas all day.  However, it can easily become the norm and the motivation to leave really drops low…especially when you sit behind the sewing machine for a good part of the day.  So, I started to take Zumba classes at a local studio and really love the energy of the people and how they keep me motivated to keep coming.  Since I go a few times a week, I’ve quickly realized how dated and worn out my sportswear was.

Fabric

To keep up with all the jumping, squats and salsa moves, I was in desperate need of just about all workout clothing.  I figured I could make a whole capsule to mix and match with my current gear.  I’m fortunate to have my friends at Pine Crest Fabrics help me in my quest.  They just launched several lines of new performance fabrics and I got to try out two of them.

First up is this new luxury line of Textured Web Spandex available in five different colors.  I chose the Mint colorway since I don’t have any green in my workout wear.  (I swear I initially wasn’t drawn to the Philadelphia Eagles’ color combo!)  This nylon/poly/spandex blend consists of a base fabric (you can see that this one is actually turquoise) and then there is another layer of the web netting overtop — which makes it come off much more green.  I was really shocked to see the turquoise on the backside of this fabric!

With the Textured Web Spandex having two layers, its a bit heavier at 350gsm (around 10oz per sq yard) and makes it absolutely perfect for that compression feel.  I want certain things to stay put as I workout 😉  With four-way stretch, this fabric is incredibly comfortable and very soft to the touch.

I paired the Mint Web with Pine Crest’s Valor line of recycled performance fabrics in Black.  What’s really special about this fabric is that it’s made with Repreve fibers — which are created with recycled plastic bottles.  I was surprised to see that 88% of this fabric comes from Repreve.  Many times companies tout how they are using recycled material and it turns out to be a minor component…but 88% is huge!  As I make more sportswear, I’m so happy to see this is an option.

The best part is that it feels just like the other Pine Crest fabrics I’ve used before (Viper and Olympus base cloths.)  It is 260 gsm (around 7.5 oz per sq yard) and is more of your typical weight in performance fabrics.

Patterns

When I was planning out the pieces of my capsule, I knew I wanted some good leggings and a sports bra designed specifically for physical activity and not just for loungewear.  I definitely wanted the “ath” and not the “leisure” when picking out patterns.  I went to Greenstyle Creations for their sewing patterns and became a member of their Facebook group.  After joining, I quickly found out the members were definitely working out in their makes and I felt very comfortable purchasing their products.

I first sewed up the Stride Athletic Tights with my new Juki coverstitch and serger.  While I love my new leggings, the process to learn my coverstitch machine was loooongggg.  (I’ll save my thoughts on it for a separate post.)  This pattern can be sewn on a regular machine and I highly suggest joining the FB group so you can see all the incredible examples which only use a standard sewing machine — It can be done!

Based on my measurements, I am a medium in the hips (40″)  and fall between a small and medium in the waist (28 1/2″.)  I cut a medium, and then cut the waistband right between the small and medium pattern lines.  Since I made the high-waisted version, I would grade to a small at the top of the waistband since my body narrows out even more there.

With the regular length inseam being 29″ and me being a 5’3″ shortie, I knew I had to shorten the pattern from the start by 1 1/2.”  I like my leggings to hit right above my ankle and just don’t like the bunching from RTW versions that are generally too long for me.  I used the shorten/lengthen line to adjust and then had to hem the tights another 2 1/2″ after finishing them.

Even though I skipped the muslin, I would suggest you make one if you are newer to performance fabrics.  I did switch up the order of assembling the Strides, however, so the last seams sewn would be the inseam and waistband.  I machine basted those seams for fit and saw a little bunching under my backside (and yes, I did pop a few stitches but was still able to see fit.)  The bunching told me to let out a little ease through the inseam and I sewed it at 1/4″ vs 3/8″ as directed.  That little bit helped smooth out the back wrinkles perfectly.

What I love about this pattern are the generous side pockets for your phone/music/keys and the inclusion of extra elastic inside the waistband.  This helps the waistband, and thus the leggings, from falling down.  Some people from the FB group use power mesh inside and that’s something I’d like to try out with the next pair.

The other pattern I picked up from Greenstyle is the Power Sports Bra.  This is a soft sports bra with a ton of different options, including racerback, adjustable straps, back closure and can be nursing friendly!  I love the double criss-cross back and went with that version along with the 2″ wide elastic band since it’s what I had on-hand.

Normally, I wear 34/36 B in underwire bras but made a 32 band and a C-cup.  Trust me….I read the sizing chart and didn’t think this was right.  I thought I would move more toward an A-cup than a C.  But again, I went back to the FB group to search sizing posts and there was a post about someone else not believing the sizing chart (and she had a 3-4 cup difference!!)  She followed it and had a bra that fit.  So, I put my full trust in the designer and went ahead making the bra (since I wasn’t going to make a muslin….see the bad habit here, friends???)

The only adjustment I made was shortening 1″ off of both longer straps.  The short ones didn’t need it.  This Power Sports Bra has a great fit and it holds well for light-medium activity.  I feel very secure in it, and that may also be due to the heavier Textured Web Spandex.  The FB group did mention that you may want to use power mesh as part of the center if you want more hold.  I’ll try that out to see the difference….since I will definitely be making more of these.  I think the U-back is next 😉

The last piece of the capsule is the Rumi Tank by Christine Haynes.  This is one of my TNT (tried ‘n true) patterns and have been wanting to make a workout version of it with the great racerback.  You can check out my other jersey knit versions here and here.  With this version, however, I used the Textured Web Spandex on the front and then the Valor on the back for a fun color-blocking look.

I made a size 6 and grade out to 8 in the hip and usually use the size 8 length.  Since I have to lift my arms a lot in Zumba class, I extended this length an additional 2 1/4″, but also made a 1.5″ hem (for extra weight to stay down).  I also increased the neckline up by 1/2″ to cover up the ladies as I move through squat and lunging motions.  I’m pleased with these adjustments to keep things a bit more modest and like a good TNT pattern, I love how it turned out!

I hope you are inspired to make some of your own workout wear.  It’s an amazing difference to have something that actually fits through so much activity and you’re not constantly tugging at the waist or having sore breasts.  Fabric that breathes and keeps you comfortable is also key!

 

Get that workout on!

-Cristy

 

Project Summary:

 

 

Fabric for this post was provided by Pine Crest Fabrics.  All sewing patterns and notions were purchased by myself.  As always, I keep it straight with you.  All comments and opinions are my own.  There are affiliate links in the Project Summary for which your purchases help to maintain this website.  As always, THANK YOU for your support!

 

Camouflage Kelly Anorak

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Camouflage prints are not just for combat.  This fabric print is heavy in current street style and I love it!!!  The print we know as camo has been around for decades and goes in and out of fashion.  But with notable fashion houses, like Valentino and Tom Ford, bringing the print into recent collections with either changes from the traditional color palette to the shapes of the pools, camouflage seems to be even more popular in recent years.

I’ve always loved camouflage print and am a big fan of mixing femme and masculine looks together.  At first, I tried to find old military jackets from the thrift shops to tailor down to my sizing, but it proved much harder than I thought it would.  Most of the camouflage from the shops were the newer pixelated prints like this (Marine 2002), whereas I was looking for the more traditional woodland pools of color.

Then Stylish Fabrics asked me to work with some of their fabric and I couldn’t say no.  Since my quest for a second-hand jacket was coming up short, I looked into Stylish Fabric’s selection and was so happy…ok, estactic…to find this Olive Camouflage stretch poly.  (Unfortunately, this fabric no longer available on their site.  But they do have other camo prints here.)  I knew this fabric along with the Kelly Anorak pattern were going to be exactly what I’ve been wanting needing in my wardrobe.

Fabric

This Olive Camouflage is a screen printed design over polyester fabric with a slight two-way stretch which is great for movement.  I wasn’t sure this would be heavy enough for a jacket.  But paired with this Black Crepe, it’s the perfect combo for a light jacket.  The polyester shell is nice and smooth and I have a feeling it will be great against stains.  When working with this fabric, I did have to use spray starch to help with pressing since the poly content doesn’t give a crisp finish like a natural fiber would.

The Black Crepe fabric has a nice hand and is completely opaque.  There is even a little bit of spandex in this fabric for movement as well.  I don’t think I have to worry about seams popping with all the extra give in these fabrics!  With camouflage being a busy print, I though about a bolder pink or red lining.  Since you can see the lining on the hood, I figured neutral was the safer bet so it could be worn anytime…I think I made the right decision!

Pattern

There are a few indie anorak style jacket patterns out there and I ended up going for the Kelly Anorak based on the length (to fully cover my backside) and for the number of snaps.   I also wanted to make the camouflage more femme with lots of gold hardware – and with 11 snaps plus 2 grommets, I was excited about the possibilities!

 

The original pattern is unlined, but there is an add-on for the lining.  If you make the anorak WITH a lining, be sure to use those instructions.  You will omit some of the pattern pieces from the original pattern and/or swap them out for different ones with the lining.  Don’t make my mistake and end up with wasted fabric from cutting out all of the original pattern pieces first!

 

After sorting out my pattern pieces, I was ready to go and loved having the Closet Case Sew-Along in conjunction with the actual instructions.  It’s so nice to have the extra pictures and different angles to make sure the jacket is being sewn properly.

One of the major changes making the lined version of the Kelly Anorak is the cuff — or more so, the lack of.  In the original version, there is a cuff with snaps.  But in the lined version, you just sew the sleeves together.  To give a little bit of the look, I added two snaps for the extra accents.  If I make this jacket again, I will definitely hack the lined version for the cuffs!

Closet Case Patterns has a great kit on their website with all the extra hardware, zipper and drawstring for the project.  I decided to go my own route for chunkier brass accents and used the following:

  • Zipper:  This is actually a reversible jacket from Wawak.  While the pattern doesn’t call for the reversible style, I liked the size and the shape of the metal pull.
  • Drawstring:  By chance, I happen to have these extra shoelaces after replacing a set of a different length.  I cut one shoelace to length and burned the ends to seal.
  • Cord Stopper and Cord Ends:  I found both items in this cute shop on Etsy, called PacificTrimming.
  • Grommets:  These are size 2 and were also from Wawak.  The pattern suggests size 0 or 1, which I should have read before ordering…doh!  They were very difficult to stitch around, so go with the recommendation!
  • Snaps:  I bought these double capped spring snaps from GoldStar tool and since I already have a press, I went ahead and got the dies.  You can buy these snaps with the hand setter as well.  I like the double-cap snaps for added strength and they look nice on the inside of the jacket too.

Initially, I was pretty overwhelmed with this pattern due to just the number of pattern pieces I had to cut out.  But I paced myself and sewed it slowly step-by-step so I could have this jacket for  years to come.  I’m happy I took my time and sewed the Kelly Anorak in digestible chunks so I wouldn’t be discouraged.  So don’t be scared!  I hope you try out the pattern….and extra points if you go camo like I did!!!

Well, Stylish Fabrics has generously offered 20% off the entire site from now until Sunday, March 10, 2019.  Use the code: STYLISHXCRISTY at checkout.

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

 

This post was sponsored by Stylist Fabrics and all fabric used was provided by the company.  Pattern and notions were all purchased by me.  This post may also contain affiliate links for which I may receive a small compensation to keep this website running.  Thank you for your support 🙂

Make the Chicest Archer Shirt with Rayon

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Archer by Love You Sew

Everyone knows the versatility of a button-up shirt.  It’s an absolute classic silhouette with ease all around the torso  but a crisp collar keeps the style elevated.  The button-up shirt works well in so many different fabrics.  After making my first flannel Archer Shirt with it’s casual feel here, I knew I wanted to flip the script and sew a “fancier” one for going out.


Because of other blogger commitments I have with other companies, it’s sometimes hard to find time to sew projects with my own fabrics without any constraints.  So when I saw Indiesew was hosting #ShirtMonth again, I knew this would be the time to sew my button-up….This is exactly the motivation I needed!  This month is dedicated to highlighting fabrics,  patterns and techniques for all shirts with a placket.  You can read more about the month here.  I’ve really enjoyed joining in on so many of these sewing challenges on Instagram and hope you do too!

Fabric

This Cotton + Steel rayon designed by Sarah Watts caught my eye the first time I saw it.  I’m very fond of my dark neutrals and love the extra pops of pink over this moody floral print.  And if you’ve ever felt C+S rayon challis, you know it’s incredibly soft and silky.  The drape is fantastic and makes for beautiful dresses and tops.  I’m a big fan and have quite a bit of their rayon in various prints in my wardrobe.  When this print went on sale at Fabric.com awhile ago (it’s since sold out,) I knew I had to grab 2 1/2 yards of it.  It been sitting in my stash for well over a year and I knew this would make a sharp looking Archer Shirt.

Tips:

  • Use a fine needle – I like a 75/11 or 70/10
  • The fabric can be pretty slippery, so pin more often than you normally would for a quilt cotton
  • Use finer needles like these which leave small holes in your delicate fabrics.

Pattern

I first made the Archer Shirt (pattern by Grainline Studio) in a soft cotton flannel which you can read about here on the Imagine Gnats blog.  It was such a great casual relaxed shirt that I could wear with jeans or leggings.  I wanted the same ease of getting dressed, but knew a rayon Archer would just be so much more sophisticated for the days I need to be dressed up.

Although the thought of making a button-up can seem pretty daunting, there is so much help out there!  Grainline has a full sew-along that has been broken up into very digestible chunks.   since this is also an older pattern, you can find plenty of inspiration on social media with a quick call to our bestie, Google 😉

FIT

I made a size 8 according to my measurements and graded out a size in the hip like a usually have to do with a woven top (my hips measure two sizes larger than my waist.)  There were no other adjustments made. Although, I would shorten the sleeves on a dressier version by 1/2″ to have it look more polished.  (I like the longer sleeve on my flannel version since it helps keep my hards warm in these colder months.)

Interfacing

What’s very different for me with this rayon project is the interfacing.  Awhile back, I used Pellon Lightweight Apparel interfacing with this rayon jacket and it has bubbled with use (ugh!)  I have to pretty much re-iron the jacket every time I want to wear it since the bubbling all over the front and back yokes.  What a drag, right???  Thanks to all of you smarties on Instagram, I learned about FashionSewlingSupply.com and purchased a few different garment interfacing like this  ProSheer Elegance in black.  Not only did it fuse well, it still allows for some drape.  I was able to sew the entire shirt while flipping the collar and cuffs inside out…and there was NO bubbling!  I’m completely sold on this stuff and won’t buy my apparel interfacing from the big box stores anymore.  These interfacings definitely costs more, but it’s well worth it to save all of my sewing time!

Based on how lightweight this interfacing is, I used it on both sides of the collar stand.  The patterns calls for it only on the inside, but I wanted to make sure the collar stands up nicely and doesn’t just flop over.  I’m happy with how it turned out and would recommend this if you are using other lightweight fabrics like lawn, voile, crepe de chine, silk and gauze.

 

Buttons

I love being able to use up my MIL’s button stash as much as I can, but I couldn’t find enough plain black buttons for this shirt.  Fortunately, I bought these 1/2″ buttons years ago, which can be covered in just about any fabric.  I was able to use all the scraps to make these buttons.  It’s such a fun and easy way to add special details to a garments which are uniquely my own.  You can see how I used them on this Felix Dress and how I used them on my Alix Dress to cover up some negative space on the yoke.

How I wear it

After investing all this time making the Archer and in the effort to be more sustainable, I want to make sure I can wear all my makes over-and-over again.  I like following other fashion influencers and RTW companies for inspiration.  Below are three ways to wear a button-up for me.

1.  With high-waisted pants on trend, I like being able to tie a button up.  It still can camouflage my mid-section but looks so stylish and playful as well.  Plus, you can conceal a lost button in case that ever happens 😉  I think a flannel button-up tied up over shorts is such a classic summer look too.

2.  For the hipster look, I like to fasten all the buttons up through the collar.  This along with tucking in the shirt with high waisted jeans (as shown) keeps the outfit polished.  Pair it with a sleek belt and I’m ready for drinks with the ladies downtown!

3.  Finally, I have the half-tuck (also known as the French tuck.)  This is definitely another on-trend way to wear any top…whether it be a tee or even a heavy sweater.  I like how it’s more casual and breaks up the hem line for more visual interest.

Which way would you wear your #MeMade button-up shirt?  I hope you enjoyed this post and join in on #ShirtMonth whether it be this year or next!

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

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