Category: garments

Split Hem Sheridan Sweater

2 Comments

Winter finally hit here in the midwest.  And by winter, I mean the below-freezing temps with wind that just bites at your face!  Since I walk my dog everyday, I’m out in this cold whether I like it or not.  In the mornings, I usually just throw on a sweatshirt over a few layers, but for 2022, I feel like I need “nicer” cozy clothes.  Don’t get me wrong, the dog walks will probably always include a sweatshirt, but I would stay in them all-day long and that’s the cycle I want to break.  It’s been two years of sweatsuits and I’m ready to get out!  So, with this sweater knit I bought last year and  my TNT, Sheridan Sweater, I’m working to get out of this rut.

I know I need more texture in my tops (not just the knit sweatshirt/jersey look) and sweaters would bring it in.  But since I don’t knit or crochet, I have to bring it in through other ways.  For sure, I have to do some thrifting, but I also had this incredible cable knit-look fabric in my stash. I bought this from Fabric.com  after seeing so many other makers use it and it certainly delivers.  The fabric is a really nice thick knit that isn’t too heavy but has the feel of a real sweater.  While the inside “stuffing” frayed a bit depending where you cut the fabric, I was able to use my regular sewing machine, serger, and even cover-stitch to make this top.

This is the fourth time I’ve made the Sheridan Sweater, a pattern by Hey June Handmade.  You can check out two I made on this post.  I’m a big fan of this pattern and really love the funnel neck view.  I’m always the “cold” one in the family and I like to have my neck covered, but I’m not a fan of turtlenecks.  My skin is pretty sensitive with fabric textures, so I always like some kind of loose covering like a cowl seen here in my Halifax Hoodie or this funnel neck.  Since I already have two Sheridans that are identical with the exception of color, I knew this one had to be different.  In addition to the fabric, I also hacked the pattern to make an uneven split hem, which is perfect for to half-tuck into my jeans.

These are all of the modifications on my size 10, view B Sheridan:

  • Increased the funnel neck by 1/2″
  • Omitted interfacing on the neck facing (fabric is thick enough)
  • Lengthened full front by 1″ and the back by 2 1/2″
  • Marked 3 1/2″ from the bottom front for the split hem
  • Used 3/8″ single fold with cover-stitching for hem
  • Made a 1/2″ narrow shoulder adjustment (typical for me with HJ patterns)
  • Narrowed out the sleeve 2″ on each side (4″ total) for a less formal balloon sleeve

I was “winging” the split hem (which I kinda regret now) and wished I added more length to the hem and especially at the side seams for the split.  While this isn’t the prettiest cover-stitching, you can’t really tell from the outside (thank goodness!) it worked out in the end.  I used some Mettler Seraflex to help tack down the hem right at the split (on the side seams) and after using my cover-stitch, realized I should’ve just used it on the hem this whole time — Lesson Learned! It’s a great thread that has stretch which you use with a straight stitch.  Since the hem is loose and not getting much strain, the Seraflex would’ve been a good alternative to cover-stitching.  I also used it in the cuffs (for less bulk than my serger) and also for tacking down the funnel neck to the facing.

Despite the small regret with the hem, I’m really pleased with this Sheridan Sweater.  It has the comfy-cozy, cable knit look I needed and it’s VERY warm too!  This was a great wardrobe addition  while I brace this bitter cold!  Do you like this knit-look without being a real sweater?  I think I may have to invest in some more of this fabric!

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read my disclosures, here.

Holiday Tartan Pants with the Chi-Town Chinos

2 Comments

I have always loved the chic preppy look of tartan pants.  They are a bit out there, but still SO fun and a great way to liven up an outfit — especially around the holidays.  But unfortunately, I just was never confident enough to believe that I could rock the look.  Plaid placement is key and the right amount of ease is needed to not turn these overlapping stripes into curvy roadways that make my  body look wider than it really is.  Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE having curves, but don’t need the plaid to push my silhouette down.  By making my own pants that are custom to my frame, I’m happy (actually, surprised!) with how this print actually lengthens my 5’3″ body.

FABRIC

Ever since the end of summer, I’ve been on the hunt for some good plaid suiting…whether it be wool or another cool weather fiber.  Initially, it was just so I could have some gray trousers for dressed up occasions.  But I found myself falling in love with holiday colored plaids too.  I have always loved how J. Crew would always have their tartans out for the holidays and wanted a sophisticated blend of colors like their style.  Most of the fabrics I found were always a little “off,” until I found this Blue/Red  Nirvana Plaid from Melanated Fabrics.  It was exactly the style, scale and fabric blend I was searching for!  And the best part is I found it on sale during Black Friday — we were meant to be!

What I love about this fabric is that it has a medium hand and twill finish, but also includes spandex for a 2-way stretch.  When you’re curvy, some extra stretch is always welcome!  The fabric is also a generous 56/57″ width, actually giving me a lot of extra to make a top or even a possible jacket later on. (That’s something I can deal with in 2022!)

This fabric is great for pants since the polyester content makes it pretty wrinkle-free…and I’ve had these tossed all over the place in-between wear and I haven’t had to re-iron them yet.  The Nirvana plaid is also completely opaque and not scratchy…so no extra lining is required.  There is actually rayon in the fabric that makes it VERY comfortable to wear.

The only downside to this fabric is that it does fray pretty easily.  I would recommend finishing all the edges to keep the fabric from unraveling.  My pocket lining is leftover from a Minerva kit and that was unraveling quite a bit too….so I ended up always trimming down my pants every few steps.  If I end up using the rest of this plaid, I will definitely finish the edges to save myself the sewing room mess!

PATTERN

When I bought this fabric, I had a completely different pants pattern in mind.  During Black Friday, I also picked up the By Hand London Jackie Trousers.  But after making the toile, I thought all the pleats wouldn’t look right and be too busy with such a stand-out tartan pattern.  It’s also a VERY relaxed fit with lots of ease since it’s also a unisex pattern.  So instead, I’m going to save the Jackie Trousers for a gray wool suiting I have that isn’t as busy and won’t make me feel like a balloon!

I’m glad I went with my gut and turned to my TNT (tried and true) Chi-Town Chinos (with expansion pack 2) by Alina Design Co, instead.  You can check out the very first pair I made here.  Since I’ve made these pants, as well as, the shorts before, I knew the changes I would have to make to fit my body.  My waist measured an 8 and my hips measured at a 12.  I generally have a two size difference between waist and hip and have tested between so many different adjustments over the years.  After 4 pairs of Chi-Town Chinos, I think I have it.

Here were my mods:

  • Cut a 10 (knowing I would take in extra later) and blended the hips out to a 12
  • Added 1 1/4″ to the rise in order to be mid-level and right at my belly button.  (The original drafting is for a low-rise chino.)  I added the length to the top of both the from and back pants template in order to keep the dart in place and not accidentally raise it too high.
  • Took out an additional 1/2″ out of each dart (1/4″ on both sides)
  • Took out an additional 1/2″ out of the center back
  • Added 1/2″ to the back crotch length for my back-side
  • Removed 2″ of length at the leg’s shorten/lengthen line
  • After making the pants, cut off an additional 1 1/2″ off off the hem
  • Interfaced the size 8 waistband so it wouldn’t stretch out with wear
  • Omitted back pockets

PLAID MATCHING

During my research of plaid pants, I unfortunately came across a bunch of poorly matched patterns….like, not even close to matching.  And I also saw some bad cutting, where one leg was cut on the bias and the other was on the grain…what?!?!  I couldn’t believe these pants were actually sold at one point!  But, there were a few pair that I definitely liked.  The ones I liked made sure to have the prominent stripe run vertically centered on the front and back legs.  This makes your eyes run up and down, with helps for a lengthening illusion.  You really have pay attention to the template’s grainline to get this right.  I also tried to make sure the big red stripes wouldn’t run horizontally across the apex of my back side and thus, widen me.  I wasn’t completely successful, but having the two red stripes on my backside, helps to even out the gaze…which is still winning!

When cutting the pant legs, I chose the widest part of the hip to be where I focused on matching. My main goal was to not have the horizontal stripe run directly into my crotch.  As you can see, it still runs across the pelvis and back, but not angled down into the crotch.  I cut every piece of the  chinos out separately to make sure all points were matched up.

To have nice side and inseams, I used A LOT of pins to hold the pants in place.  The Chi-Town Chinos have a generous 5/8″ seam allowance and it’s important to pin at the seam line and not just at the edge of the fabric.  If you pin just at the edge of the fabric, the pattern can shift very easily.  I know it’s a major “don’t,” but I will sew over my pins when I need to pattern match this much.  During the fit and basting process, I made sure to pattern match then.  If I was off a little bit, I could always go back and easily pick the stitching and re-pin for the final stitching.  Although this is takes patience and time, the pattern matching is well worth the effort!

One last tip I have is to use a walking foot when top-stitching…especially at the waistline.  Initially, I didn’t use one and with the twill weave along with the spandex fiber content, the plaid really shifted on me.  I picked all the stitching (ugh!) and then used a walking foot with extra pins to evenly guide the fabric while sewing so the plaid wouldn’t be lopsided.

I never thought I could wear patterned pants….mainly from RTW trauma years ago.  But I know NOW, with the right ease and fabric placement, I can do it.  This is really opening up my world and you better believe my pants will be much more fun going forward!  Isn’t sewing for yourself amazing?  Do you have any fun holiday makes in the works?

 

Merry Stitchmas Friends!

Cristy

 

 

Review Fibre Mood Agatha Dress with Rayon

Over the summer, I was in a rush to make this Fibre Mood Agatha dress for the first wedding of 2021 and I completely forgot to write it up until now.  Let’s be honest though…most of my blogging was set aside while managing my family during the pandemic!  I was still sewing to save my mental state and am trying to catch up now while I have a little extra time 🙂

With the warmer weather approaching and vaccines coming out, I knew this was going to be one of the very first “big” social events for the family.  After a year of just sweatsuits and leggings, I really wanted to make something special and use up some fabric in my stash.  If there was any perspective gained from the pandemic, it was to use up all the “good” fabric and not let it sit on the shelves!

PATTERN

I’m not sure exactly where I saw this silhouette, but I wanted to make a flowy long dress with flutter sleeves for the midwest heat.  After a good bit of research at my typical spots – IG, Pinterest, and Google, I finally found the closest pattern to what I wanted.  And that pattern was the Fibre Mood Agatha…However, it was drafted for knit fabrics and of course, I wanted to use woven.  In the website description, FM says the pattern can be used for wovens, but I was pretty skeptical.  They mention that you “only” need a side zipper and I’m here to say I made a lot of extra adjustments to account for ZERO stretch.  Since I couldn’t find any other options, I still bought the pattern knowing I would have to muslin the bodice and be fully committed to a few days of fitting.

Although I measured a US 8, I cut a US 10 knowing that everything would have to be adjusted later on.  It gave me a base point to start without going too high and throwing off other fit (like the shoulders and sleeves.)  With the muslin, the armscyes are very generous, so I didn’t need to make the sleeves.  I just had to sew the bodice and waistbands together.  Even after cutting a larger size, I still needed 7/8″ added onto the front and back of the waistbands.  Then I slashed the back bodice in three spots (dividing the back evenly) to account for the new waistbands and created a new back bodice piece.

With the help of hashtags, I found Jessica R. (@mom.maker.model) who had made a few woven Agathas.  She had some good tips and mentioned she had to add about 2″ to the length of the bodice (towards the side of the bust) to make room for the ladies (I am a B-cup and you would have to add more for any size larger.)  Since the bust is gathered, I didn’t have to add more width…but just evenly spread the gathers along the new front waistband.  I had to play with the gathers and the added volume a little bit until I found the fit I liked.  The V-neck is pretty deep and I ended up overlapping the front bodice pieces by 3/4″ for a little extra modesty. With the added length of both the waistbands, I then widened the skirt opening to match.  *The pattern doesn’t mention stay-stitching the waist opening of the circle skirt, but I would HIGHLY recommend it so your skirt doesn’t stretch while making this dress.

For Jessica, she didn’t need to add a zipper, but I definitely had to in order to get the dress over my head! This was such a mental challenge for me because not only was I adding in an invisible zipper, but with the light colored fashion fabric I was using, I also had to account for a lining…and adding pockets!  I really set myself up for a challenge…eek!  I ended up sewing the invisible zipper to the fashion fabric and then hand-stitching the lining into place.

While adding in pockets is normally not a huge issue (but all designers should add them to all patterns anyways!) I, again, had to account for a slight sheerness of this fabric.  The pockets had to actually go behind the lining so they wouldn’t be seen through the front of the dress.  I know some of you are wondering why I didn’t use the lining as the pockets.  But with the slash style, I wanted to use the same fashion fabric to blend the pockets right into the dress whether my hands are using them or not.  To account for this interesting issue, I left openings in the side seams of my lining so the pockets could pop back.  I’ve never seen something like this in a pattern and was proud of my MacGyver sewing idea!

FABRIC

I had this Rifle Paper Co. Citrus Blossom rayon challis in my stash for a good year.  I’m normally not a yellow person, but these prints are always SO beautiful and I definitely needed the color in my wardrobe.  When this collection first came out, I bought enough fabric for a shirt or maybe a short dress….but then I came back to it just a month or so later and bought more.  I’m so glad I did because this circle skirt style uses a lot of fabric!

With rayon challis, it is a light and breathable fabric. I love it for the summer since it has a soft cool hand and drapes well. However, it can be slippery and pretty shifty when sewing.  So I use my fine pins and end up using twice as many as I would with a quilt cotton.  My machine is pretty hardworking, so I also have to switch down to a 70/10 needle when working with rayon.

As I mentioned earlier, I had to use a Bemberg rayon lining in the skirt to keep the dress from being see-through. I cut the lining the same shape as the skirt, but cut off an extra 2″ off the hem so it wouldn’t been seen as I wore the dress.  While I was at it, I also added a lining to the waistband (along with light-weight interfacing) to keep it more structured for a lean look.  Luckily, this was also in my stash and it’s definitely a good fabric to have around to line lighter fabrics.

Overall, this was probably one of my most laborious makes with the added steps of a muslin, adjusting for woven fabric, adding pockets and also adding a lining.  After the wedding and 6 additional months, I can still say that all of this work was WELL worth the effort and I have all of the adjustments ready for a future dress!  I’m so happy with the wearability of the FM Agatha.  While it’s light and flowy for warm weather, I love that my shoulders are covered for those shots of extreme air conditioning in the summer.  Keep a lookout for a new one in 2022!!!

 

Hugs and Stitches, friends!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my Disclosures here.  While I am a Fibre Mood ambassador, this pattern and the fabric was purchased by me and not part of any promotion.

Review || Fibre Mood Paulette Blouse

When I saw the previews for issue 13 of the Fibre Mood Magazine, I was awestruck with the flirty and fun nature of the Paulette Blouse.  This button-up top has a ruffle starting from one princess seam running around the back to the other.  The hem line runs straight and hits right at the high hip.  With a band collar and two-button cuff, this blouse has all of the features of a classic shirt, but has that feminine touch with all the ruffles! We’re still in a life of Zoom calls, so statement blouses are all on trend.   That means the prairie influence of last year is hanging around even a little longer than trends generally go — YAY!  I know not everyone is into that “cottage-core” style, so updating it with the right fabric can make the look last a little longer than the all-out trend.

FABRIC

I LOVED the sample version of the Paulette when I first saw the stock photos!  Is anyone not surprised it made the  cover of Issue 13?  There was just something with the directional play on stripes and the classic mix with softer ruffles that just really worked for me.  But, of course, I wanted to make this blouse with my own spin… While in the middle of deep Ohio snow, I knew I needed to start thinking about warm weather and spring clothes.  This cheerful green and white striped lawn came up in one of my late night searches.  While I initially found it on Fabric.com, I was worried about delayed shipping times (due to COVID-19) and not being able to make my FM ambassador deadline.  PRO-TIP ->  I checked  Amazon to see if they carried the same fabric (since they also own Fabric.com.)  If you have a Prime Membership, many times you can get the same fabric cheaper AND faster than if you purchase through Fabric.com.  I even have a business account with Fabric.com and it turned out Amazon + Prime was still a better deal!!! #winning I chose to use lawn since it’s very lightweight and breathable — perfect for warm weather.  However, it also tends to be semi-sheer.  So lawn is great for blouses and other tops….but you will definitely need a lining for a dress or pants.  The other great feature of lawn…especially 100% cotton version, is that it holds great structure while still having a soft hand.  While the fabric is light, you can really get great body and volume that won’t cling onto every curve and still make  some gorgeous statement ruffles!  If you like the look more of the FM cover sample, something more drapey like a rayon challis or light tencel twill would give you that look. This fabric purchase was made on a whim since I loved the green and white stripes.  And…I’m happy to report I would definitely buy it again.  It washes and dries well since the fabric is 100% cotton (and I do NOT like to line dry if I don’t have to!)  It sews up easily without shifting issues like your typical quilt cotton.  Since the fabric is lightweight, I did drop my regular needle size down to 70, but used my normal all-purpose Gutermann white thread for construction.

PATTERN

Fibre Mood sells their patterns either as a full set through their magazine (definitely a great deal if you want 3 or more patterns) or digitally, a la carte.  The instructions are available to any registered user through the website (in 5 different languages!) which is a really generous feature.  So, you can read through the complete instructions and understand the steps BEFORE buying the actual pattern! I printed the Paulette pattern at home and loved being able to uncheck the other tiled sizes I didn’t need.  While it’s definitely more labor intensive to print and assemble the pattern at home, I was working against the clock and with bad weather conditions, I didn’t even want to send the A0 copy shop version out to the local printer. For this Fibre Mood pattern, I measured as an 8 in the bust and waist, while also being  a 12 in the hips — which is typical for my body.  Construction went very well with the ample amount of notches (I do love them!) and the great instructions.  I have made many other blouses with button plackets like the Archer and Aida tops, so I knew what to expect. Overall, I stayed true to the pattern and made only the following modifications:
  • Graded the waist out to a 12 in the hip
  • Used a 1/4″ hem instead of 3/4″ to lengthen the top.  Next time, I may add an extra inch for more coverage to tuck in…and I’m only 5’3″!
  • Increased the overall bust by 1/2″ by letting out 1/8″ from each princess seam.  The finished measurement of the blouse is suppose to be ~40″.  But when I tried on the blouse, it was pressing against my chest as I moved and didn’t have nearly the ease as it should.  Even after releasing that 1/2″ from the princess seams, the finished bust measured at 39″ and not 40″ as stated.  My pattern pieces and seam allowances were correct, so I would highly recommend a muslin and/or sizing up if you are in-between.
This Fiber Mood Paulette was a great sew and I love the final results!  This is a nice fresh take on the ruffle blouse and makes me long for some sun and warmer temperatures!  What’s on your spring maker list?   Hugs and Stitches, Cristy
Please note, I am on the Fibre Mood influencer team and an affiliate member. I received this pattern for free but was not obligated to write this blog post.  This post may also contain affiliate links.  Please read my disclosures here.

Review: Sirocco Jumpsuit in Luxe Green Scuba

2 Comments
This post was originally written for the Minerva Crafts blog in November, 2019. Additional edits have been made after real-life wear of the garment.

Intro 

Hi, this is Cristy Stuhldreher from Love You Sew with my very first #MinervaMake as a blog contributor!!!  I was SO excited to be invited to be part of such an extensive team of bloggers here and equally excited to play with so much beautiful fabric.  My first find was this gorgeous Lady McElroy Luxury Plain Scuba Jersey Knit Fabric in Bottle Green.  With autumn (my favorite season!) quickly coming to the States, I knew I would need to get ahead and make some transitional garments with the switch of temperatures that are bound to come.  So, after I saw this scuba fabric I immediately thought of the Deer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit (like many other contributors already have!)

Fabric

This Lady McElroy Luxury Plain Scuba Jersey Knit Fabric was such a great find!  I’m a big fan of Ponte de Roma fabrics and knew I would love Scuba just the same since they are both heavy double-knits.  They feel and act very similarly, but are made of different fibers.  Scuba is generally poly and elastane whereas Ponte is generally viscose and elastane.  This soft and smooth Scuba Jersey did not disappoint with its great stretch and nice body which is perfect for a jumpsuit when you don’t want every bodily imperfection to show through.  It is also works SO well for a knit jumpsuit with amazing stretch and recovery.  The last thing I would want after all of this hard work would be a saggy stretched out butt!
It’s always hard to tell how color will come out in person versus on a computer, so I was a bit nervous to see how the Bottle Green would be.  It looked slightly more muted, like a deeper sage green on my screen.  But I was actually delighted  to see that the fabric was more of a deep rich gem tone – a solid “Hunter” green, in my opinion.  With my olive skin and dark hair, I love a gem tone- especially for the colder months ahead!  After a few washes, the color has stayed true to the first day it arrived on my doorstep – love that!
With this fabric being a double-knit, I would recommend using a ball-point needle and your stretchiest stitch found on your machine (zig-zag, triple-zig-zag, lightning bolt, etc.)  I used a combination of my overlocker and coverstitch to allow my jumpsuit the greatest amount of stretch to fit larger hips.

Pattern

Jumpsuits still look to be on trend a little while longer, so I thought it was safe to make the Sirocco Jumpsuit for the fall.  With the short-sleeves and full pant legs (on View A) I figured this was a great garment to wear on the cooler nights downtown with or without needing a jacket.
The Sirocco is a unique pattern in that there are no ties or other fasteners used to get in and out of the garment.  You slip in and out of it all through the faux wrap V-neckline.  This might not pose a huge deal for most, but I have hips which are two sizes larger than my waist –which means I REALLY will need to stretch out the waist to maneuver around.  This is the main reason I chose the heavy Scuba fabric to handle the severe stretching over my hips.  As I was fitting the garment, I honestly thought I would have to put in a side zipper for my hips, but the Lady McElroy Luxury Plain Scuba Jersey Knit Fabric proved to have such amazing stretch and recovery that I didn’t need it!  Honestly, I feel like I could wear this all day long…even after multiple bathroom breaks!
I made a few modifications for my SHORT 5’3″ frame with those aforementioned HIPS:
  • Made a 40 bodice and graded to a 42 in the hips and back to a 40 for the rest of the leg
  • Shortened bodice by 1/2″ and used a chainstitch (from my coverstitch) to secure the seam allowance down since the fabric is so lofty – This allows the lapped bodice to stay secure over your chest.
  • Shortened pant legs by 4″ initially (by just tissue fitting) and then took an additional 3 3/4″ when it was time to hem so that it would hit right above the ankle bone – Next time, I will shorten at the thigh and also from the ankle to get a better fit around the knee.
  • Extended the crotch length 3/4″ on both the front and back pant
  • Deepened the seat on the back pant by 3/8″
  • I wish I took out an 1″ out of the rise before cutting, but was able to take 1/2″ out of the overall inseam to narrow the legs and decrease the rise.
  • Took an additional 1″ out of the ankle and blended up to the knee for a slimmer leg

After these changes, I can’t tell you how incredibly pleased I am with my Sirocco Jumpsuit.  The Lady McElroy Luxury Plain Scuba Jersey Knit Fabricis so chic and the deep green really does make the Sirocco Jumpsuit so “EXTRA!”  Love it!!!
You can find my other makes on the Love You Sew Blog (here!) and more daily inspiration on Instagram @loveyousew_ .

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

 

Affiliate links are in this post. Check out my Disclosures here. Fabric was provided for review as part of the Minerva Maker Blog Team.  All thoughts and opinions are my own.