Category: Fabric

Make Welt Zipper Pockets with the Skye Joggers

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Skye joggers by Love You Sew

When joggers hit the market a few years ago. I was definitely into the look. They had the feel of my old Champion sweats from back in the day. (You know, the ones with the elastic ankle and all!) However, it seemed that the trend was not really feeling me. I tried on a few RTW pairs and have even sewn a few patterns. But, I didn’t like how they clung to my thighs and calves. I mean if I want leggings, I’ll just wear leggings….and that’s what I did.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Since then, I’ve seen so many more joggers on the street and figured out I was into the more menswear style – which are a little looser and fit that ol’ sweatpant nostalgia, I remember. Fortunately, I’ve made the Skye Joggers by Blank Slate Patterns before and knew exactly the changes I wanted to make to get my perfect pants.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Fabric

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

When I made my very first Skye Joggers, I knew they were going to be a wearable muslin. So, I used whatever knit I had on-hand…which was a lightweight modal (definitely not on the recommended fabrics list.) They stretch out so much around the knees that I just wear them at home.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew
I tried to push the ankles up to hide the knees…Ha!

As with any muslin, lessons are learned. I knew I wanted a heavier knit and “athletic” fabric that looked like the RTW versions on my Pinterest board here. Either a ponte or scuba would work and I decided on ponte. I’ve worked with it before like on this Denver Tunic and love the weight and recovery. I grabbed this great dark grey Ponte de Roma Viscose Blend from Imagine Gnats awhile ago and the Arietta Navy Ponte from Craft South while on a trip. But you can still grab some of the Arietta from Etsy here.

Sizing

Based on the muslin, I wanted just a bit more ease and sized up a step. I coach sports for my boys and want a bit more movement (aka air circulation) with my joggers. One can only wear leggings for so long!

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

Additionally, I widened the knee and calves by drawing a straight line front the shorten/lengthen line all the way down to the ankle. I have heavy calves (and don’t fit into most boots as a result,) but I know I can adjust when I sew. I almost always have to make this adjustment on pants patterns, but left it pretty simple since I was working with this heavy ponte.

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

These are another pair of Skye Joggers I made with the same sizing adjustments. You can see the extra ease allover, and especially in the knees and calves where the fabric is not pulled.

I happen to make these before the #SewFancyPants challenge and felt like they were a bit too safe and boring (perfect for coaching basketball though!)

Welt Pocket Tutorial

Skye joggers by Love You Sew

With the new year and planning out my projects, these were the only additional pants on my docket. But when the #SewFancyPants challenge came across my Instagram, I knew I wanted to participate somehow. I decided to stick to my plans since I already had all of my fabric. With the ease I added into my joggers, they were definitely looking more like the men’s versions I’ve seen (and absolutely love!) I figured I would go all the way and make these even more masculine by hacking the slash pockets to make some pretty dope welt zipper ones.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

To make welt pockets, you first have to bring up the lines of the front pant pattern’s pocket area to match the side seam and waistline. To do this, lay the pocket pattern right on top of the front leg (as shown) and cut out the fabric following your new combined pattern.

With this change, you will no longer need the front facing pattern piece and instead, will need four of the pockets. To make things much easier on myself (and after some tough lessons learned before,) I used a quilt cotton to make the welt pocket opening. This allows for more stability and less bulk…especially when working with a heavy knit. For the back of the pockets, I then went back to the ponte.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

1. For the zipper opening, I used a 7″ sport style nylon zipper like this one. The pockets are very generous with the Skyes and I wanted to make sure my hands and phone could fit through easily. (No one likes those little zip pockets that can only fit a tube of Chapstick!) For the placement, I literally clipped the pocket pattern to pants I was already wearing to see where my hand naturally would go. I made sure to place it far enough down to account for seam allowance. Then I drew and cut out a 7″ x 1/2″ rectangle exactly where I wanted the zipper to go.

2. On the wrong side of the front pant leg, I marked the zipper box using the pocket pattern and then fused a 8″ x 1″ pieces of knit interfacing overtop of the zipper markings.

3. With right sides facing together, lay the front pocket lining against the front pant. Pin in place. Mark the zipper opening to the wrong side of the pocket lining and stitch around the entire rectangle. Draw a line down the center of the rectangle (as shown) leaving 1/2″ at the beginning and end between the line and the sewn box. Draw two V’s to connect each corner to the center line (as shown.)

4. Cut along the red lines and use small scissors to get as close into the corners as possible without cutting any threads.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

5. Remove pins. Take the pocket and push it all through the zipper opening and finger-press the seams down.

6. Press the inside of the zipper opening while rolling a bit of the ponte inward.

7. Press the outside of the zipper opening making sure you don’t see the lining.

8. Using some Wonder Tape (or a fine line of washable fabric glue,) line the zipper opening as shown on the pocket. Remove the backing from the tape.

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

9. With right side of the pant up, center the zipper opening over the zipper. Make sure the zipper opens downward. Finger press around the zipper opening to attach the zipper to the pocket. Use extra pins as needed. Top-stitch 1/8″ around the zipper opening through the pant front, pocket and zipper.

10. Flip joggers to the wrong side to make sure you got through all the layers. Trim threads

11. Line up the back of the pocket lining to the front lining and pin only the pockets together. At this point, I decided to curve the pockets since I was going to serge them together. This would eliminate the extra bulk a corner would give me. I used a ruler to draw the arc, but you could also use a bowl.

12. Since I was using a serger, I measured in my 1/2″ seam allowance to give me a guide as I ran the pocket through my machine. Serge or sew the pocket linings together, making sure to push back the pant front.

Take a step back and check out the off-the-rack look of that zipper!

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

Piping

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

If I was gonna add welt pockets with some sporty zippers, I had to keep going and add some contrast piping to these Skyes 😉 Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any black stretch piping under 10 yds that would also deliver within a week. (Why is everything I need overseas???) I could find every other color, except for basic black – go figure. So, instead I used woven bias tape piping straight out of the package like this one. The piping balances out all of the black accents and makes these look so professional….but I did have some help…

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

With regular piping, I could use my zipper foot to attach it with a straight stitch, but I wanted a stretch stitch given the ponte. Plus, all of these layers definitely needed to be overlocked. I didn’t have the right foot with any of my machines to do a zig-zag or overlooking stitch with piping, so I got this new foot for my Juki Serger. As seen above, my regular foot is to the left and the piping foot is to the right. There is a channel that allows the piping to move through and now I can serge everything!

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

This piping foot was amazing! It allowed for a tight and even application. I’ve sewn piping on garments before like these Laure dresses, but sometimes I have to go in to sew twice for an even seam. This foot was flawless. Guess you’ll be seeing more piping from me!

My Real Inspo

Welt pocket Tutorial by Love You Sew

I didn’t even realize it until my son helped me with taking pictures, but he pretty much has the same jogger that I was trying to create. I must’ve been channeling his pants within my subconscious this whole time! Now we can “twin” in our gear together.

I hope you enjoy the welt pocket tutorial! Please let me know if you have any questions or additional thoughts in the Comments section below.

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

This post contains affiliate links. A small commission maybe earned if you decide to purchase through any of these links. As always, these payments go directly back to fund the website, so I can provide you with an ad-free experience. (I dislike banner ads as much as you do!)

Sonata Abbey Backpack

Abbey Convertible Backpacks with Sonata Fabrics

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Happy New Year! Amy Sinibaldi is not wasting anytime bringing joy and beauty into the new year. She has a brand new fabric collection, Sonata, with an ode (pun intended) to classical music by Ludwig van Beethoven. Like Amy’s previous collections, these fabrics feature the most beautiful and delicate artwork. I love how her drawings are set against some sharp pinks and dreamy complementing blues with this release.

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

When I first laid eyes on these fabrics, I knew they would be perfect for my next bag pattern, the Abbey Backpack (estimated release in early spring.) These fabrics are so sweet and darling, that I had to pari them with my pint-sized mini bag. I chose the following fabrics from the collection (from top to bottom:)

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

When I first drafted this pattern, I though it would be a one-off design as a present for one of my nieces. But with the power of social media, you convinced me to turn my design into the Abbey Backpack. It’s been over a year since I made the first and only one…so trying to remember all that I did was a bit tough…

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

But I love a good challenge and like to play around with textures and techniques. With the blues of Sinfonie in Danube, I knew I wanted to make this bag a bit more masculine and added leather accents including this bit to frame the front zipper…and did you see the instruments?!?! In LOVE!

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

This deep cocoa brown leather was just a beautiful contrast…So I used it on the handle, on the back, the bag closure, and even on the base to help protect the contents.

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

For my bags, I always love a good lining with some personality. Floral No. 9 Bold is just that. The coral and orangey-red flowers really pop against the navy background.

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

I also love a surprise in the pockets. When digging around, it’s nice to have pockets a different fabric from the lining so you can see where to put your belongings…amirite? 1812 is an elegant low volume print and perfect pocket lining.

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

As with most of my plans, there is always a change. I snuck in some of the Ink Thunder print with all of the hardware connectors to break up the free space on the leather and the exterior print.

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

Since I designed this backpack for my young niece, this bag is smaller than your typical schoolbag, but still is great for all ages. Here is my (soon-to-be) 6 year old son modeling the Abbey.

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

With two separate color ways found in Sonata fabrics, I couldn’t help but also make two bags! I changed up many of the details to give the same bag, a completely different feel — including switching up where the strap connects on the Pastoral Magenta (with the itty-bitty strawberries!)

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

With the swivel clasps changed from the bottom D-rings to the top ones, the Abbey Backpack is now a cross-body bag! The adjustable slider allows you to change up the length of the strap for backpack or handbag use.

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

To change it to a backpack again, you detach the swivel clasps, adjust the strap length, fish it through the middle rectangle ring, and hook the swivel clasps back onto the bottom D-rings. Ta-da!

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

As the contrast substrate, I used AGF’s Solid Textured Denim in Evergreen Slate to line the bottom of both the exterior and interior of the Abbey Backpack. Since not everyone sews with leather, it’s nice to show another fabric like denim.

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

I loved Octet as the lining of the bag so much, I ended up using it also for the strap. The contrasting fabrics make the backpack so much more fun this way.

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

It was hard to photograph, but you know I got the Josephine Poetic in as my contrast pocket lining. You can see the pocket against this amazing magenta and the solid background shows again the Octet lining.

Abbey Backpack by Love You Sew with Sonata Fabrics

Look! The Abbey is just big enough so you can rock it as well. This is great light backpack for day-tripping or just running around town. When you get tired of taking it on and off, switch to a cross-body. How’s that for service? 😉

I hope you enjoyed some of my experimentation and thoughts on bag details. I’m not sure what will stay and what will go once the backpack pattern is published, at this moment. Let me know in the comments what you love the most, so I make sure to include it!

Don’t forget to swing by Amy’s blog to catch the whole Sonata Showcase. There are some incredible makes!

Happy Sewing, friends!

Cristy

Fabrics for this post were provided by Amy Sinibaldi as part of the Sonata Showcase.  All thoughts, opinions, and Abbey backpack design are my own.

M7429 Pine Crest Velvet by Love You Sew

Holiday Dressing with Stretch Velvet

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Nothing says “Happy Holidays” more than some velvet. There is just something about this fabric that conjures up feelings of wintertime mixed with luxury…especially in deep royal blue. Luckily, it is also one of the hot fabrics of the minute with odes to the 90s still in full fashion swing.

Fabric

The nap of velvet gives the fabric its trademark characteristic. The soft texture lends some weight, which makes it a great fall/winter substrate. With the popularity of velvet, there are a lot of options currently out in the market. There are non-stretch and stretch varieties which is great based on what you would like to make…whether it be a structured blazer, tights or a dress.

I was able to get this gorgeous Royal Radiance Velvet Spandex from my friends over at Pine Crest Fabrics. When they asked if I wanted to try out one of their velvets, I just couldn’t say no (even with a month full of other sewing commitments.) I knew that this velvet would be special since Pine Crest is a company that specializes in high performance fabrics…and friends, this Royal Radiance did not disappoint. You can find similar fabrics at Fabric.com here.

What makes this fabric incredible is the base cloth. I’ve made a few garments which you can read about here, using other Pine Crest athletic fabrics and I knew the velvet’s “wrong side” would be silky smooth…and it was! The 4-way 10% Spandex stretch made it ideal for a form-fitting dress and it has great recovery – so the dress keeps its shape. Even with the heavier weight of this fabric, it remained cool and breathable which is key when wearing this fabric out to a party.

Velvet Tips

  • Pay attention to the nap. Make sure it feels smooth running down the garment and cut pattern pieces with this in mind…because you know you will want to pet yourself!
  • If you do need to iron, use a towel as a pressing cloth to avoid crushing the pile. (There was hardly any wrinkling with my dress, so I luckily didn’t have to press often.)
  • There is a little mess cutting into velvet. Run a sticky roller on the velvet immediately after your cuts to keep the fuzz at bay.
  • Use a stretch or jersey needle with stretch velvet.

The Pattern

For my holiday dress, I used McCall’s #M7429. Variation B was exactly what I wanted for my stretch velvet. I wanted something more form-fitting, but NOT body-con. (I am not a skin-tight kinda gal.) This front knot and half-wrap design is perfect for camouflaging one of my trouble spots, but is also visually appealing. Only a solid fabric could really show off this design element and using my Royal Radiance just made it SO much better.

No lie…I was definitely tripped up by the knot. I was able to get pretty far with the limited illustrations and instructions known with the Big 4 pattern companies. Luckily, I found this video by Brittany Jones to help guide me through.

These Big 4 patterns also tend to allow more ease into their recommended sizes, so I was a bit concerned on what size to cut. I went with the pattern’s recommendation and feel like I could have probably gone down one size because there is quite a bit of fabric hanging under my arms and into the bust. The shoulders could be cut in 1″ on each side as well. Other modifications I made:

  • Graded out one size in hips down to the hem, including the back pieces
  • Narrowed the sleeves 1″ (folded) at the wrist and graded to the elbow
  • Shorted sleeves by an additional 1″
  • Increased hem by 1.25″
  • Deepened the neckline by an additional 1/4″
  • Tacked the wrap skirt into the knot with a few hand-stitches to keep it straight

What do you think about velvet for this holiday season? There’s still time to make this dress for Christmas or New Year’s!

Happy Holidays!

Cristy

*Fabric for this post was provided by Pinecrest Fabrics. As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own.

Fall Sewing: Alix Dress in Télio Rayon Slub

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After making a number of practical everyday garments likes jeans and sweatshirts, it feels good to make something that’s a little extra special.  I’ve been dying to make a Boho maxi dress for the days I want some statement style but still have a light relaxed feel.  Then Télio asked me to collaborate and I already adore their fashion-forward garment fabrics.  How could I refuse an opportunity after seeing this gorgeous border print?  The fabric along with By Hand London’s Alix dress pattern were going to be THE perfect match!

Fabric

The first time I used Télio fabric was here.  I was impressed with the high quality and how the fabric washes well.  So, it’s no wonder I fell in love with this Télio Kahlo Rayon (#39801) for its gorgeous double-border print.  Look how the three different patterns are layered to give an impression of a tiered dress without having to actually sew one!  It gives so much visual interest and I was able to play with the design with my fussy cuts of the dress pattern.

The fabric is 100% rayon with an incredible slub texture.  The feel of the natural fiber knobs adds to the character of the Alix Dress and Boho vibe.  As with all rayon, the fabric is still lightweight with beautiful drape and movement.  It is also completely opaque.  After adding linings to my last few makes, I’m happy to leave that step out!

Pattern

Initially when I chose this fabric, I wanted to make a long shirtdress.  But when I received it, I knew I wanted something else to show off this print.  After going through dozens of other patterns, I remembered how the Alix Dress caught my eye awhile back.  I’ve sewn up the Holly Trousers before and By Hand London writes up a great pattern.

I really love this dress silhouette.  It’s relaxed all over with a beautiful tie-back to show off the waist.  This allows a nice shape without having me look like I’m drowning in fabric….especially, when I’m petite.  The tie-back also allows for weight fluctuations, which is VERY much appreciated in a handmade wardrobe.

One of the features that drew me into this pattern were the peasant sleeves.  I have heavy arms and usually have to make a bicep adjustment with woven patterns, so the ease in the sleeves looked pretty attractive.  I ended up not having to make any adjustments to the sleeve pattern.  The darts at the top of the shoulder allow full range of motion.

However, I still did hack into the sleeve to change out the elastic casings.  I wanted a clean look and went for a slim button cuff with a 2″ long placket made with 1/4″ bias tape.  Since the cuff is only 1/2″ wide, I didn’t want to make a buttonhole and opted for a loop with my fabric covered button.  This a small detail, but I love being able to make my own custom buttons.

The other change I made to the Alix dress is the addition of pockets….because all dresses need pockets!  Amirite?  I used the in-seam pocket pattern from Christine Hayne’s Derby Dress (it’s my go-to pocket) and marked them about 4″ down from the top of the skirt.  If you ever wonder if you should add pockets, do it!  You won’t regret the extra work 🙂

Since I was working with a border print, I was limited to the 56″ wof and had to cut off 5.5″ from the skirt just to fit the pattern piece onto the fabric.  I was worried this would have to turn into an ankle or midi-length dress, but it was worth the sacrifice to show off the design.  For once, I was thankful for being 5’3″ because the dress turned out to be just long enough!  I created a 1 1/2″ hem and it just hits the top of my foot.  Phew!

There were two choices to either make a dart or gather the fabric under the bust.  I opted for the gathers and made sure to push them more toward the center of each breast.  This helped eliminate any sagging fabric around the sides into the bodice.

It maybe hard to see (which is good,) but I also added two fabric covered buttons to the front yoke.  My fussy cutting into the border left me with too much negative space right at the bottom of the V-neck.  Unfortunately, I didn’t have much fabric left and couldn’t cut out another piece.  So I made due with what I had and added the buttons to balance out the print a bit more.  Do you think it works?

I’m in LOVE with this make and it’s the perfect relaxed statement dress.  I can wear it with clogs (shown here,) flat booties and then sandals in the spring.  I’m thinking this may come with me to Thanksgiving….

Project Summary:

 

Happy Sewing Friends!

Cristy

 

Fabric was provided by Télio Fashion Fabrics for this blog post.  Pattern was purchased by myself and as always, all opinions are my own.  There maybe affiliate links in the post.  

Disco Double Zip by Love You Sew

Gift Idea: Disco Double-Zip Pouch as a Toy Bag

It’s holiday gift-giving season already and I’ve been thinking about my handmade line-up for awhile now.  I don’t know if I’m just getting better at planning or if the consumer marketing seems to be pushing earlier.  It’s probably the latter, right?!?  So, I’m going to try to show you some of my favorite handmade gift ideas through the blog and on Instagram (without leading to any spoilers for my family!) to help inspire handmade for the holidays!

Fortunately, Sew Sweetness just released Season 2 of her Minikin patterns.  This collection includes 13 patterns (many with multiple sizes) and accompanying videos.  If you didn’t know already, I’m a huge fan of these patterns and love how unique they are.  (You can check out my Sidewinder from Season One here.)  The Minikins offer such a great variety of patterns and I love having the library of patterns available when I need a gift.

My youngest son was invited to birthday party for a little girl about a month ago.  It’s hard as a boy-mom trying to figure out what’s popular, so I figured handmade is the best way to never have the same gift as another guest.  Luckily, I had this great Alexander Henry Unicorn fabric already in my stash, because we know ALL girls (young and old) love Unicorns 😉  The Disco Double-Zip Pouch, even in the small size, provided great side panels to show off these magical creatures.

To really make this bag special, I used Red Glitter Vinyl on the bottom gusset to add some sparkle.  Although the vinyl is thin, it is still stiff and required a bit of wrestling along with a lot of clips.  You will need to make quite a few extra cuts into the seam allowance to sew around the curve of the side panels.  But, it’s all worth it!

When I first decide on this pattern, I figured this pouch would be great to carry little knick-knacks and maybe some markers.  But I quickly realized the compartments were bigger than what I imagined in my head.  My son’s friend could carry a lot of her toys in these generous pockets.  So, I thought adding straps would make the Disco Double-Zip more like a little carry-all.

I omitted the side handle and cut (2) 3′ x 18″ strips of the vinyl,  folded them lengthwise into fourths and sewed up both sides to create the straps.  Each short end was folded up by 1/2″, placed 1 1/2″ down from the top edge and 1 1/2″ in from the left/right of each side panel.   Tip: Use a Teflon foot and a larger needle to get through the layers of vinyl.

Since the straps were an afterthought, I used rivets to attach them to the bag.  But you could sew them on before attaching the zipper gusset to the side panels.  I also used the rivets on the Glitter Vinyl at the end of each zipper to give the bag a more professional look.

Disco Double Zip by Love You Sew

The mom of the birthday girl told me this bag was such a hit and her daughter carries it around everywhere!  My son’s friend loved the Unicorns mixed with all the sparkle and she is so happy that she can put so much in her own little bag.  I call that a success and hope you have someone who could appreciate a Disco Double-Zip Pouch just as much!

Project Stats:

 

Happy Holiday Sewing!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links for which I may receive compensation after a purchase has been made.  This helps fund the website and keeps the content rolling.  Thank you always for the support!