Category: Fabric

Pattern Review: Aida Top in Verona Voile

This post was originally published August 13, 2019 for the Imagine Gnats Blog.  Since the shop closed in early 2020, I have republished my contributors posts (with permission) to this blog.  I have included some additional thoughts and pictures after some real-life wear and tear.  Enjoy!

In Ohio, we are in the dog days of summer, and this hazy heat is beating down on all of us. It’s at the point of just scorching outside or freezing inside almost all buildings with the air conditioning blasting to compensate for the weather.

So, I’ve been on the hunt for a lightweight woven fabric and a shirt pattern with some nice ease for a loose and breezy top (enter my voile Aida top). I was so happy to see this Verona Voile (aff link) and had to have it!  Then all I could think about was pairing it with the Aida Top by Sew Liberated.

Fabric

When I first saw the Verona, I loved that it was voile. I love the lightweight characteristics of this type of fabric, but was curious to the fact that it’s a 50/50 of cotton and rayon. Well, now I can say that it’s a great combination because it allows more drape which makes for a great summer fabric.

If you look closely, you’ll be able to see the great puckered texture the Verona Floral Voile has after washing. It’s not like a seer-sucker with the same repeat waffle texture, but it’s like striped puckering which has been woven in. It’s absolutely gorgeous, and I became a quick fan…since I don’t have to worry about wrinkles anymore!

There are two colors of this Verona Voile Floral – navy blue and yellow. Since I just finished a few blue chambray projects, I wanted to add a little color to my wardrobe with the yellow.

It’s not a color I wear a lot, but I figured I’d go big with the yellow and large flowers since it WAS going to be a summer shirt after all 😉

Pattern

The Aida Top is a new addition to the Imagine Gnats pattern library, and I was pretty stoked to sew it up. It had everything I was looking for: lots of ease, shirt-tail hem, v-neck, button placket, AND written for lightweight woven fabrics.

I was mostly drawn to the v-neck button placket because its a popular style I’ve been seeing with strappy tanks lately.

Based on my measurements, I am an 8 in the bust and also in the waist. With my hips (that don’t lie), I clock at a size 12. With all the ease in this top and after reading some other reviews, I felt pretty comfortable sewing a straight size 8.

You can see in the profile shot of the shirt that the voile Aida top still clears my backside with room to spare! Woohoo!

There are two views of the Aida with either a flat-front or with gathering, and I chose the latter. I like the extra shaping and added texture it has. I also sewed the shirt-tail hem as written, but I think a cropped boxy version would also be great in this pattern.

My arms are on the heavier side for a size 8. RTW woven shirts are generally tight around my biceps and were always tough for me to find since I didn’t want to wear something that was then bigger everywhere else.

My arms fit into the sleeves as drafted, but I wanted a little more ease to be consistent with the look of the top. I reduced the seam allowance by 1/4″ for a little extra breathing room. I also added a 1″ cuff on each sleeve for an extra detail and visual interest.

Since I love to use buttons from my MIL’s old stash, I found 5 black ones which were pretty close matches. The pattern calls for 7, but I thought 5 was enough.

Even though I didn’t use the recommended 7, I do wish there was a button template just to know where to place the top button. I had to do a good bit of trial and error to figure out where it should go while keeping a flat neckline, but everything did work out!

The Aida Top in this Verona rayon/cotton voile is just a dream shirt for the summer. I wore it during a heat wave and was so impressed with the airiness and soft feel….making the heat (slightly) more bearable 🙂

I hope you grab some of this fabric and make a voile Aida top of your own soon!!!

{Edited May 2, 2020}

Since making this top in August, I’ve worn it at least another dozen times and have yet to iron it –so the textured voile is definitely a winner!  The fabric washes well and the texture is still perfectly waffled.  I just broke it out for the first time this year since the temperatures jumped about 20*F.  But with Covid-19 quarantine and all the additional baking happening… I need some coverage while still being  breathable, and this is it.  The  Aida is still a winner in a my book!  Below are updated links if you would like to make your own:

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my disclosures here.

Pattern Review || Fibre Mood Holly Dress

4 Comments

Things got pretty busy around the holidays, so it’s about time I get back to the blog.  I can’t believe it’s March already and I’m just getting around to reviewing the Fibre Mood Holly Dress I made back in November!  We are in the midst of Covid-19 self-quarantine and blogging a bit is helping me deal with the current environment along with feeling some kind of accomplishment for the day.  I hope this post brings some distraction to all of you at this unbelievable time in our world.

With the 2019 fashion trends bringing “prairie” style along with bold statement sleeves, I was on the hunt for a pattern that was still modern and not full “Laura Ingalls Wilder.”  Then I happen to see a version of the Fibre Mood Holly Dress on Instagram and knew it was for me!  I loved the clean high collar, full sleeves with button placket and the perfect midi length!

Pattern

I had never made a Fibre Mood pattern before.  The company is a European based sewing magazine (available in several different languages) which also sells their digital patterns a la cart here.  When I purchased this pattern in November of 2019, there are a few things to note about the pattern:

  • It  was available only in A4 paper sizing
  • You had to add in your own seam allowances (SA)….to every single pattern piece.  Yikes!  I’m not used to doing that, since I’m accustomed to US patterns which includes the SA already.  But, I still wanted to make the dress badly and was willing to take the extra time
  • Since purchasing this pattern, Fibre Mood has started to add SA to their new pattern launches and has made their digital patterns available in US Letter and AO (copy shop) formats.  This pertains to only the new patterns being released in new magazines, but they might go back to old patterns.  I’m crossing my fingers!

The nice thing about a pattern without SA, is that you can tissue-fit it without having to do all of the math (subtracting the seam allowances) to your body.  The down-side is this process is VERY time intensive…even with the double pencil trick!

Fabric

I fell in love with this Telio polyester crepe over the summer with leopard also making its resurgence as the hot print of the moment.  Since everyone and their mother is wearing animal print, I wanted to enjoy the trend but be a little different in this bold orange and blue combo.  I purchased a few yards with no plan in mind until I found the Holly Dress.  I paired this fabric with the pattern to really make the dress more modern to balance to the high neck and more traditional ballon sleeves.

The fabric is lightweight with fluid drape and needed to be cut with care due to it’s shiftiness.  I did not cut on the fold and opted to cut everything out as one layer of fabric.  This crepe is also semi-sheer so you would need a lining, but I opted to just wear a slip underneath the dress afterwards.

Construction

I measured between a 38 and a 40, but opted for the 40 since I needed the clearance over my hips.  Although I made a straight 40, next time I will widen the shoulder and possibly add a little length to the sleeve….which is surprising because I am 5’3″ and usually have to narrow the shoulders with American patterns.  Other modifications included:

  • Omitted belt for a solid RTW one – I knew I wanted to tone down the pattern just a little bit to eventuate the waist and not be completely lost in the print.
  • Used basting stitches to help set in the sleeve (they were not part of the instructions.)
  • Swapped out the 24″ invisible zipper for a 16″ which I had on hand – There was still plenty of clearance to get the dress on and off

  • Hacked in pockets using the Derby Dress pattern pieces – This is my go-to pattern piece when I want in-seam pockets.

  • Narrowed the neckband by 1″ in total by taking out (2) 1/2″ wedges where the band meets the shoulder seams.

  • Made fabric covered buttons for an elevated look using a kit similar to this.

Final Thoughts

Overall, I really love this dress.  The fabric and pattern were a perfect pairing for my style and wardrobe needs.  I’ve worn it out for date nights with my husband and can’t wait to bring it into spring!  I would definitely make this pattern again, just with a slight widening of the shoulders and maybe a different length just for some variety.

What do you think about this dress style?  Are you into leopard print too?

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

 

This post may contain affiliates links.  You can read my full disclosure here.  I bought the fabric and pattern on my own.  But after making this garment, have since become a member of the Fibre Mood ambassador team.

Add a Phone Zipper Pocket to the Abbey Convertible Backpack

1 Comment

The Abbey Convertible Backpack is my go-to bag when taking day-trips with my kids. I like having it out of the way but still being able to hold the essentials. But being a designer, I constantly have new ideas and wish there were different features with every bag I own.

On the back of the Abbey, there is a slip pocket. I added the feature with the intention that it would be a quick spot to hold your phone or keys without having to open the main compartment as frequently. But since I happen to wear my bag more as a backpack, I have to swing it around to access the pocket and felt that a slip pocket just isn’t as secure for an expensive smartphone — and BOOM, I have the idea for the back welt pocket hack.

Back Welt Pocket Tutorial

You will need the original instructions and templates for the Abbey Convertible Backpack which you can find here. Additionally you will need:

  • 6″ Zipper
  • 8 3/4″ x 12″ Lining Fabric + Interfacing (this is large enough to fit an iPhone 7+ with a thick Otterbox case.)

To make the Back Zipper pocket, you will omit all of the fabric and interfacing for the Slip Pocket and move through Step #41. (Please note I don’t have connectors added to my handle base at this point since I used leather and added them later.)

Draw a rectangle measuring 6″ x 1/2″on the wrong side of the Pocket Lining centered and parallel to the short side as shown. The Zipper will run vertically.  There should be 1 3/8″ above and below the rectangle and 3/4″ space to the right. 

Line up the Pocket Lining as shown with the right edge 1/2″ in and up 1/4″ from the sides of the Handle Base. Pin the Pocket Lining in place. Go back and follow Steps #21-28 to finish the pocket! Voila – a chic looking vertical zipper pocket to keep your phone or other valuables a little more safe as you sling the backpack around.

Since the Pocket Lining hangs vertically instead of horizontally, the weight of a phone would make it drag awkwardly and pull on the zipper.  So, the Pocket Lining needs to be anchored horizontally so the weight can hang straight down naturally.  To do this, flip the back of the bag right side up and sew directly below the Handle Base from corner to corner catching the Pocket Lining.  Back-stitch well.

This is the wrong side after securing the Pocket Lining.  The weight of the phone is evenly distributed and won’t distort the structure of the bag.

Additional Modifications

You know I cannot resist using leather in my personal bags!  I had this great glazed black upholstery leather I got from Tandy which I used to make a few Kelly Waist Bags.  The scraps are great for all of Abbey’s accents like the connectors, handle and closure tab.

I also used my other Abbey Backpack Zipper Cover and Button Stud Hacks which you can find here.  I like the clean look from the front and just love using button studs with leather.

Project Details

I hope you enjoy this hack and even use it for other projects!  Don’t forget to use #abbeyconvertiblebackpack and #loveyousewpatterns on social media so everyone can see your fabulous makes!

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

This post may contain affiliate links which I use to keep this website pumping along.  Please visit my Disclosures page for all  the info on my affiliate relationships.

Guitar Strap Tutorial with the Claire Fold-over Clutch

2 Comments
Guitar Strap Tutorial by Love You Sew
The Claire Fold-over Clutch was my very first published pattern just over a year ago.  I can’t believe it’s been that long already.  I put my own twist on the popular bag style with a large easy access pocket on the back and the simple use of leather one side of the bag – making it easier to sew.  You can read more about my design here and see lots of different versions with #clairefoldoverclutch on Instagram.
My designs are meant to be practical, but also chic enough to work with new trends and fashion with just a change of fabric.  This is the case with the Claire.  Although it was written to use both fabric and leather, I thought it would be fun to make a full leather version — in cobalt blue for a real statement bag.  This blue leather is pretty edgy and gave me rock ‘n roll vibes right away.  So, I thought a guitar strap would give the bag a new look all on it’s own…even after making dozens of other Claire Fold-over Clutches!
This amazing woven tapestry-like ribbon was found at a yard sale a few years ago.  I think I bought it for $1-2 and was drawn to the bright blue edges contrasting against that moody floral motif.  I like mixing up new and old looks, so this trim was definitely all me.  The leather was picked up from a destash group and so I was able to grab an amazing deal.  The seller was getting out of her baby shower business and had so many pretty pieces of leather to get rid of.  Her loss was definitely my gain!

Make the Claire Fold-over Clutch

To make the bag itself, you will need the pattern and instructions from my shop here.  The main modification I made was to use leather on both sides of the exterior, instead of just one.  (I would only recommend this ONLY if you have a machine strong enough to handle all of the layers.) But if you are just beginning, try out an all fabric version or one with very thin leather/vinyl.
Since the bag is made of solid color all around, I made sure to add in some accents and interest with metal. I used metal zippers (which I actually installed at the wrong places — I should definitely remember to read my own instructions…but I thought going from memory was good enough. Wrong!)  If I was using fabric, I would have swapped out the zippers, but with leather, the needle holes are permanent and I didn’t want to mess with all of that and just moved on! In light of my zipper faux pas, I added a line of rivets along the top zipper (through the lining) to play with the same edgy feel of the cobalt leather.  What do you think?

Make the Guitar Strap

For the strap, you will need the pattern pieces below.  I drafted the ends for 1 1/2″ or 2″ wide straps.  Anything else more narrow won’t give you that guitar-strap, but feel free to widen/narrow the pattern for your own look!

Click here for Strap End Templates

In addition to basic sewing notions, you will also need:
  • 1 1/2″ or 2″ wide ribbon/finished strap, cut to desired length
  • approximately 8″ x 5″ leather scrap
  • Leather Needle
  • (2) 1″ Swivel Clasps
  • Zipper Foot
  • Walking or Telflon Foot
  • Clover Clips or Fabric Glue (aff link)
  • (2) Sets of Rivets (optional) + Setting Tools
Instructions: 1. Use the templates to cut out pattern pieces based on whether you have 1 1/2″ wide or 2″ wide strap.  You will have (2) Strap ends and (2) Reinforcements.
2. With each Strap End wrong-side facing up, center a Reinforcement as shown with wrong sides together.  Glue baste in place.  It’s tempting to skip this step, but this will help your leather from stretching and distorting with time and wear.
3. With the leather needle installed, stitch 1/16″ around all four sides of the Reinforcement. Repeat with other Strap End.
4. Take Ribbon and center it on one half of the Strap End with wrong sides together, aligning it to the Reinforcement. (You may need to cut off the ribbon’s corners so they don’t hang out of the Strap Ends.)  Clip or glue into place. Repeat with other Strap End.
5. Slide one Swivel Clasp onto the Strap End. Repeat with other Strap End.
5. Flip the other side of the Strap End up so it is folded in half with wrong sides together, encasing the clasp.  Clip or glue together. Repeat with other Strap End.
6. Use your Zipper Foot to sew a seam to secure the Strap End onto the Swivel Clasp, sewing as close to the clasp as possible.  Back-stitch well. Repeat for the other Strap End. TIP: Add washi tape under the foot if you don’t have a Teflon Zipper Foot like me.
7. Switch to a Teflon or Walking Foot and top-stitch each Strap End together with the Ribbon using the stitch guide on the template. Repeat with other Strap End.
8. Finish with rivets, if desired.  Congratulations on your new guitar strap!
It doesn’t stop here!  I’ve been seeing beautiful striped belt strappings used on designer bags like here on my Pinterest page.  I’m already planning out my spring bags with these looks!  You can use this same method to easily update any bag for the changing seasons or add new life to a great hand-me-down or thrifted find.  The options are really endless.  Enjoy and let me know how you like the tutorial!!!
Happy Sewing Friends! Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links.  Please visit my Disclosures page for all details.

Peppermint PJs Review

What great timing on the launch of these Peppermint Pajamas by Blank Slate Patterns. We’re heading into holiday season and I’ve always sewn family PJs for Christmas Eve. I’ve also always drafted my own (making different tweeks every year) and have yet to add pockets. Well, now I actually have a pattern (that fits!) and won’t have to spend as much time making my holiday pajamas!

Pattern

The Peppermint Pajamas comes with patterns for BOTH the woven pants and the knit top. This is like a 2-for-1 pattern with sizes ranging from XXS-3X (bust 30″ – 53″ and hips 33″ – 55″.)

The pants feature an elastic waist, roomy slash pockets, and a separate cuff. The bottoms can be made into shorts, capris (by leaving off the cuffs) and full-length pants.

For the knit top, it features a crew-neck with raglan sleeves. You can make cap sleeves like I did, or use the long sleeve option. It has a nice relaxed slim fit for shaping, but not body-con tight.

Fabric

I knew I wanted something luxurious for my first pair of Peppermint pants. I am usually a boxers gal and wear all of my old flannel Xmas ones in colder months. I’ve been very conscious lately of my fabric consumption and was happy to find this Rifle Paper Co floral already in my stash. It is a Rayon Challis and feels incredible!. It has a soft hand, wonderful drape and feels silky to the touch. However, with these features, it can be very slippery to handle. With Rayon, I always use twice as many pins I usually do and I try not to pick a design which requires fabric matching – it is already hard enough to sew a new pattern!

For the top, I dug into my stash again and found just enough of this Robert Kaufman Dana modal knit to make the cap-sleeve version. It’s a nice off-white cream color and so soft. The knit is a bit lighter and slightly sheer, but is perfect if you are looking for a tissue tee or for some great drape. I purchased this from Imagine Gnats, but this is a staple from RK and you can find it also at Fabric.com, here.

Modifications

With pants, I always measure all across the board. I’m a small in the waist and am in-between a medium and large in the hips. But since the Peppermint PJs are meant for lounging, I sized up to the large and then graded the waist to a medium since the elastic would pull the sides in more. I love the extra room – perfect for laying on the couch for family movie night! I also made my regular pants adjustments of extending the crotch by 1/2″ and deepening the seat by 3/8″.

Since I was working within my stash, I did not have a contrasting rayon that would work with my floral print. So I added piping where the cuffs attached to help keep the look cohesive. I also added piping at the pockets to balance out the look.

As you know, I’m also a shortie at 5’3″. I used the shorten/lengthen line to reduce the front and back legs by 2″. On the cuff, I took another 2″ off the total length because I didn’t want this delicate fabric to drag on the floor at all. So overall, I took 4″ off each leg.

With the top, I made a straight medium with the cap sleeve and didn’t make any additional adjustments. The length is great for a PJ tee and I think this is great pattern for any basic tee. It’s a great neutral to wear with jeans and a light jacket for fall!

Final thoughts

The Peppermint PJs were great basics to sew and I love the video on Melly Sews YouTube channel on making the waistband. It’s always great to get that double-check while sewing to ensure the correct construction! I think this is beginner-friendly and a great value with two patterns for the price of one! I hope you enjoy making this set as much as I did!!!

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

The pattern was gifted to me by Blank Slate Patterns, but I was not required to write a blog post. All thoughts and opinions are my own. Also, this post may contain affiliate links. You can read about all of my disclosures, here.