The Claire Fold-over Clutch was my very first published pattern just over a year ago. I can’t believe it’s been that long already. I put my own twist on the popular bag style with a large easy access pocket on the back and the simple use of leather one side of the bag – making it easier to sew. You can read more about my design here and see lots of different versions with #clairefoldoverclutch on Instagram.
My designs are meant to be practical, but also chic enough to work with new trends and fashion with just a change of fabric. This is the case with the Claire. Although it was written to use both fabric and leather, I thought it would be fun to make a full leather version — in cobalt blue for a real statement bag. This blue leather is pretty edgy and gave me rock ‘n roll vibes right away. So, I thought a guitar strap would give the bag a new look all on it’s own…even after making dozens of other Claire Fold-over Clutches!
This amazing woven tapestry-like ribbon was found at a yard sale a few years ago. I think I bought it for $1-2 and was drawn to the bright blue edges contrasting against that moody floral motif. I like mixing up new and old looks, so this trim was definitely all me. The leather was picked up from a destash group and so I was able to grab an amazing deal. The seller was getting out of her baby shower business and had so many pretty pieces of leather to get rid of. Her loss was definitely my gain!
Make the Claire Fold-over Clutch
To make the bag itself, you will need the pattern and instructions from my shop here. The main modification I made was to use leather on both sides of the exterior, instead of just one. (I would only recommend this ONLY if you have a machine strong enough to handle all of the layers.) But if you are just beginning, try out an all fabric version or one with very thin leather/vinyl.
Since the bag is made of solid color all around, I made sure to add in some accents and interest with metal. I used metal zippers (which I actually installed at the wrong places — I should definitely remember to read my own instructions…but I thought going from memory was good enough. Wrong!) If I was using fabric, I would have swapped out the zippers, but with leather, the needle holes are permanent and I didn’t want to mess with all of that and just moved on! In light of my zipper faux pas, I added a line of rivets along the top zipper (through the lining) to play with the same edgy feel of the cobalt leather. What do you think?
Make the Guitar Strap
For the strap, you will need the pattern pieces below. I drafted the ends for 1 1/2″ or 2″ wide straps. Anything else more narrow won’t give you that guitar-strap, but feel free to widen/narrow the pattern for your own look!
Instructions:
1. Use the templates to cut out pattern pieces based on whether you have 1 1/2″ wide or 2″ wide strap. You will have (2) Strap ends and (2) Reinforcements.
2. With each Strap End wrong-side facing up, center a Reinforcement as shown with wrong sides together. Glue baste in place. It’s tempting to skip this step, but this will help your leather from stretching and distorting with time and wear.
3. With the leather needle installed, stitch 1/16″ around all four sides of the Reinforcement. Repeat with other Strap End.
4. Take Ribbon and center it on one half of the Strap End with wrong sides together, aligning it to the Reinforcement. (You may need to cut off the ribbon’s corners so they don’t hang out of the Strap Ends.) Clip or glue into place. Repeat with other Strap End.
5. Slide one Swivel Clasp onto the Strap End. Repeat with other Strap End.
5. Flip the other side of the Strap End up so it is folded in half with wrong sides together, encasing the clasp. Clip or glue together. Repeat with other Strap End.
6. Use your Zipper Foot to sew a seam to secure the Strap End onto the Swivel Clasp, sewing as close to the clasp as possible. Back-stitch well. Repeat for the other Strap End. TIP: Add washi tape under the foot if you don’t have a Teflon Zipper Foot like me.
7. Switch to a Teflon or Walking Foot and top-stitch each Strap End together with the Ribbon using the stitch guide on the template. Repeat with other Strap End.
8. Finish with rivets, if desired. Congratulations on your new guitar strap!
It doesn’t stop here! I’ve been seeing beautiful striped belt strappings used on designer bags like here on my Pinterest page. I’m already planning out my spring bags with these looks! You can use this same method to easily update any bag for the changing seasons or add new life to a great hand-me-down or thrifted find. The options are really endless. Enjoy and let me know how you like the tutorial!!!
Happy Sewing Friends!
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. Please visit my Disclosures page for all details.
Expanding your sewing repertoire is always so exciting, but there can also be some challenges along the way. As I wrote the Emma Stadium Bag, I included some tips with construction specific to my pattern, but thought you might appreciate more general guidance when sewing with clear or other see-through vinyl!
First, let’s talk about vinyl. This term is used for a lot of different flexible plastic substrates, but I am referring to sewable 100% PVC (polyvinyl chloride,) which is generally polished on one or both sides and you can see through it. Vinyl is a tough and durable substrate that can be used to provide moisture and/or humidity protection. This type of vinyl is available it many different colors and even thicknesses.
20 gauge (above) vs 12 gauge (below)
Vinyl is measured by gauge number. This refers to the thickness of the vinyl sheet. Most big box craft stores carry from 8-20 gauge and hardware stores can carry even thicker products. But for our sewing purposes, I think 8-20 gauge is within our wheelhouse. The 8 gauge is the thinnest at 0.008″ which is the most flexible and the easiest to sew. I think this is a great size if you are using this for a window in a pouch or organizer project. I wouldn’t recommend this for the body of a bag or pouch because it would be able to hold it’s shape well (unless you are going for the slouchy look!) On the opposite end, the 20 gauge is thickest at 0.020″ and is more rigid, but still flexible. I would recommend this thickness for projects which you want to keep the shape intact, like a tote or pouch. However, not all domestic sewing machines will be able to handle the thickness. My semi-industrial Juki 2010Q can handle this after some tension adjustments, but I think 12 gauge is the best bet to start for most machines IMO. Please test the gauges and see what you like best!
Let’s start with vinyl prep and handling. The following are a few tips to get you started:
Do NOT use your Favorite Fabric Scissors – Use your “paper” or “all-purpose” scissors to cut through the vinyl because it could dull your fabric ones – especially if you are using a higher gauge. I have an old rotary cutter marked for all-purpose use. Generally, when my fabric rotary blade gets dull, I move it over to the “all-purpose” Fiskars cutter and use that on these special projects and when I’m trimming PDF paper patterns.
Use Clips to Hold Vinyl Together – Whether you like to use Clover Clips or binder clips, these all do the same job. They hold vinyl together without leaving a permanent hole like a sewing pin would. I’ve also heard of others using paper clips and even bobby pins too.
Do NOT Directly Iron onto Vinyl – This will melt and leave permanent marks on the plastic. If you do have deep creases that you would like smoothed out, you can hover the iron above the vinyl or use a pressing cloth with light and quick presses. A heat gun or a hair-dryer (on low setting) can also help. Make sure you don’t have multiple layers of vinyl directly touching each other as you use heat or they can melt together.
Now, let’s get into sewing with vinyl! Below are tips from my own experience. Please let me and other readers know if you have any additional tips of your own in the comments section below. I would love to read them!!!
Left to Right: Teflon Foot, Walking Foot and Zipper Foot (with washi tape)
Use a Teflon Foot (preferred) or a Walking Foot – Vinyl is notorious for it’s “stickiness” when rubbed against a metal presser foot. A smooth Teflon foot doesn’t create the same friction as a metal one would and allows the vinyl to pass through the feed dogs. I prefer this foot for it’s slim profile and the ability to maneuver around more than the clunky Walking Foot. However, the Walking Foot does do a great job with the extra set of feed dogs to help shift the vinyl through. Other machines may have leather/vinyl specific feet as well with rollers. I don’t have these with my Juki and can’t speak to them specifically. Relieving presser foot pressure (if available on your machine) will also help reduce friction.
Grab some Washi Tape – If you don’t have any of the feet mentioned above, you can try to use washi tape (available at most craft stores) and adhere it to the bottom of your regular foot. I use this method with my zipper foot (pictured above) since I rarely have the need for a Teflon one. I will caution that you do need a higher quality tape where the sticky side remains where it’s suppose to and doesn’t transfer to the non-sticky side. $1 bin tapes are usually like this and if you have any tackiness on the right side of the tape, it pretty much negates it’s use.
Reduce friction on your Sewing Machine Bed – Some vinyls are stickier than others when moving across the painted table of your sewing machine. (It glides over smoothly on the bare metal plate.) You should test how the vinyl glides against your machine before starting. If there is quite a bit of sticking, I recommend detaching the extended table and/or laying down several pieces of washi tape on top of it. This will allow the vinyl to glide a bit more. You may also have to lift the vinyl as you sew to avoid contact with your machine, working a few inches at a time.
Use Regular/Sew-All Polyester Thread – You want a nice strong thread with the vinyl, but you don’t want anything that is too thick because it will create more rubbing. This is the same if sewing with faux or real leather. There is more friction when you use a thicker thread and although you can also switch to a larger needle, sometimes you just can’t get a needle large enough and will end up with skipped stitches.
ALWAYS use a Brand New Sharp Needle – Since you are puncturing plastic, a brand new needle is essential. If it is dull, this can effect timing and can lead to skipped stitches.
Practice sewing on scraps – Vinyl will leave permanent holes, so it’s important to get your tension and stitch-length right before sewing. As you increase thickness, you may also have to increase your stitch-length to compensate.
As for the care of vinyl, it is always a good idea to keep any type of it away from prolonged sun exposure. This will keep your vinyl the same color as purchased and keeps it malleable. You can use a damp cloth to wipe away messes.
Now that you have the tips and tricks down, are you ready to sew with vinyl? All of the clear vinyl bags in these images are 12 gauge clear from JoAnn Fabrics (aff link.) If you stop by the store, you can ask for swatch samples in the other gauges. You can also order clear vinyl from Fabric.com (aff link) which ships to many countries. If you are into some of the specialty vinyls, I LOVE Sew Hungry Hippie’s shop (aff link.) This is where I bought the rainbow vinyl in the pictures above and I’ve been eyeing up all the glitter offerings.
Right before I left for a college football game last year, there was just something that made me check the stadium’s bag policy, even though I’ve attended games at the same venue for years. Thank goodness I did because it turned out, I couldn’t bring in the bags I always used to! I could either bring in a small wristlet that couldn’t even fit my phone, or opt to bring in a clear bag to accommodate more of my stuff. With this game being out of state and lots of walking around the campus, I knew I had to bring a clear bag. With some remnant vinyl and scraps of canvas from my stash, the Emma Stadium Bag was born.
At first, I didn’t think this bag would be a pattern. It was a just a quick late night project based on need rather than want. But with public safety on the forefront of large gatherings, there has been a continuous change of bag policies across other public venues and schools. We are seeing the need for more and more clear bags to ensure safety for all. Even with this movement, I know us, bag-makers still love to add our own personal spin to a make. We have the power to make things our own and I hope you are able to use the Emma Bag to keep your own style and show off your personality while out and about.
Original from Fall 2018 – I didn’t have the right hardware late & improvised with leather and plenty of rivets
The Namesake
As with all my bag patterns, they are named after one of my eleven nieces. Emma is the youngest girl on my husband’s side of the the family but she is far from the “baby” of the bunch. This young lady has so much grit and confidence from being her household’s resident jock. Emma has played travel, club, and high school soccer which allows her to criss-cross the midwest for tournaments. She is also an incredibly talented track star, so it’s only fitting that the bag inspired by sports venues is named after my strong and beautiful Emma.
Features
The Emma Stadium bag is based on using clear vinyl as the main body with a fabric zipper top. This makes the zipper easier to sew on and allows you to use your favorite fabric to stay unique and stand out from the crowd. Not only does the zipper keep your belongings from falling out, it keeps strangers’ hands out too. It helps protects your phone and wallet from the elements, as well as from that possible beer spill 😐
This is my first pattern offered in multiple sizes. I did a little crowd-sourcing on Instagram and asked all of you about my ideas for this bag. Initially, I thought I would write a pattern for the maximum sized bag allowed in the NFL – thinking you would want to maximize your space. But you told me smaller was actually better! So, I listened hard and have THREE different sizes available for all of your needs.
Small with Wristlet strap – This size is for the light packer who just needs the essentials. It fits a cell phone, sunglasses, a small wallet like the Shuffle Cardholder, plus tissues, keys and lip balm.
Medium with Cross-body Strap- This a great size to hold more items while still having the ease of a cross-body. You can hold items for a whole day’s worth of activities from tail-gate to the game. I like this size in colder weather to hold earmuffs, hand warmers, and gloves.
Large with Shoulder sStraps- The large bag, will hold the most when you want to bring in all of the above plus an extra sweatshirt or blanket. It can hold seat cushions and all the game-day merch you want to buy! *While it does not exactly conform to the NFL/PGA policy. It IS the same on a volume basis. I don’t know if you would run into issues, since all security is different. You can open the zipper when going through security if they ask to measure the bag.
Although each size has it’s own instructions for straps, you can mix and match the styles along with two different ways to attach D-ring tabs. There is a short optional that leaves an “ear” on your bag while the long option sews the tab back onto the body for a smooth side silhouette.
Pockets – The medium and large sizes include instructions to include slip pockets for extra organization. This is perfect for your tickets and slim wallets.
Vinyl side seams are sewn down for smooth interior – Your hands won’t be scratched by hanging seam allowances, especially if using a more rigid vinyl.
Fabric Zipper Top completely encloses the vinyl body for a clean finish inside and out
The Emma Stadium Bag is definitely not just for sporting events. Many concert halls have similar policies and many schools are adopting a clear bag policy. If you’ve ever worked in retail, there has generally been a clear bag policy to avoid theft. The large size can double as a school/work bag with its generous sizing. The medium size makes for a great project bag for yourself or the kids! It can hold lots of art supplies and you can easily wipe down the sides. It’s also a great toiletry bag for travel and the gym. With the TSA a permanent fixture at airports, the small can be used in lieu of all of those quart sized bags – saving the planet and your contents from spillage!
Fabrics
The body of the Emma Stadium Bag is about 2/3 vinyl, so there is not much fabric involved to make this bag. The zipper top was designed to use Quilt Cotton and other similar weight woven fabrics. This allows you to use your favorite fabrics and customize each of your makes. All of my examples are using a waterproof lightweight canvas which makes them great for the outdoors and for my traveling adventures with the family.
Vinyl thickness is measured by gauge number – with the smaller number being thinner compared to a larger number.A 20 gauge will provide a more rigid bag, but a 12 gauge is easier to sew and more pliable when trying to manipulate your bag under your sewing machine.
Vinyl – Clear 12 gauge purchased from Joann Fabrics and the fun Rainbow 12 gauge purchased from Sew Hungry Hippie – This shop has SO many great colors available! (aff link)
Check out all of the amazing tester versions of the Emma Bag. I love their uses of different fabric and how they decided to use their bags. Click on each image to find the maker on Instagram.
Large by Yasmin
Small by Mallory
Large by Tiahna
Medium by Nela
Small by Maggie Marconi
Large by Michele
Small by Meagan
Medium by Maggie Ann
Medium by Sherrene
I hope you enjoy making the Emma Stadium Bag as much as I have loved designing it! You can find other examples of the bag by following #EmmaStadiumBag and find my other patterns with #LoveYouSewPatterns.
Hugs and Stitches!
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. You can read about my Disclosures here.
Out of all the sewing patterns I’ve written so far, this Maya and Harper Travel Changing Set is definitely the most sentimental for me. Long before I had this blog, a sewing business, an even an Instagram account, I made these items just for myself and my babies (who are now 8 and 6 years old!) It’s been a long time coming, but these patterns are now available to purchase in my shop, here!
Background
As a new mom I was packing SO much stuff in my diaper bag for any type of situation and it was bursting at the seams. I was digging around for changing supplies and knew I needed some kind of organizer. But of course, there was nothing modern and slim back in-the-day. All the retailers had the same cutesy animal prints in the same four pastel colors. (Cue eye-roll.) With my new found sewing skills, I developed these patterns and they both have gone through MANY revisions over the years.
One of my early designs. The one I first carried had a button and elastic loop closure.
After I made the ones for myself, friends started commenting on them which led me to make them as gifts for awhile. Then after a lot of encouragement, I started to make these baby accessories to sell and opened my Etsy shop in 2013! With over 1,000 sales in my shop and countless ones vending at indie craft shows, I knew I had some special accessories. Now that I’ve retired from selling retail product, it was time for me to share these patterns with you!
More early designs with different closure options I offered in my shop
With most of my patterns, I name them after my nieces. Maya and Harper are my sister’s sweet and ridiculously adorable girls. Since they are quite the pair and are usually decked out in matching outfits, I knew they had to be the namesake for these patterns. They are two little people that go together just like how the Travel Changing Pad and Diaper Clutch go together!
Maya Diaper Clutch
The Diaper Clutch was designed to hold diapers, wipes, bibs and large enough to also hold the Harper Changing Pad. It has a slim design which will expand with your needs. It has the following features:
Two Large Slip Pockets for diapers, wipes, bibs, etc
One Zipper pocket for ointments and creams
Detachable Wristlet strap for easy carrying
D-Ring which can be hooked onto diaper bags or backpacks
Metal Snap for one-handed opening and closing
This is a great project as a beginner sewist. You will learn how to use heavier fabrics, create a welt zipper pocket and install a magnetic snap. You also will learn how to make a wristlet strap. This same technique can be used across other pouches and accessories whenever you want that extra feature!
Harper Travel Diaper Changing Pad
The Changing Pad was designed to have a waterproof surface for changing, while being able to use beautiful fabrics to match your personality. Let’s face it, changing diapers is not glamorous at all, but you might as well look good doing in! Making the pad in a pretty fabric helps to lessen the pain…LOL. The pad features:
A Slim profile to help you better utilize that diaper bag real estate. I was not into the incredibly thick mats that came with many diaper bags…There was no reason to carry around a sleeping mat IMO!
Waterproof side for changing
Fabric side to show off your favorite fabric
Hook and Loop Closure for one-handed accessibility
Quilted design to make folding easy
The Harper is another pattern perfect for a beginner sewist. It is a very quick and satisfying project while you learn how to use laminate and/or other waterproof fabrics.
Material Sourcing
D-Ring, Swivel Clasps and Magnetic Snaps – I’m a loyal fan of Emmaline Bags (I carry their products in my other bag kits,) but also love the quality of Ning Bags on Etsy (aff link)
Zippers – Like most of you, I grab mine from ZipIt Zippers on Etsy (aff link) or I grab them from Wawak when they’re on sale.
Canvas – Fabric.com (aff link) always has a steady selection of different canvases…from organic to solid, to other great modern prints. It’s a great spot for the most selection, especially when making a gift 😉
PUL (Polyurethane Laminate) – You can find a lot of great prints in PUL, but my pattern uses the smooth laminate side as the “right” side. The designs are usually printed on the soft knit side of the fabric which would be hidden. So make sure you read the fine print when ordering! Joann’s carries the Babyville line of PUL which is thicker than other brands. I like how the white is fully opaque and is available 60″ wide. Diaper Sewing Supplies is a great spot for Eco-PUL which is more environmentally friendly, but is slightly transparent and thinner. I like DSS for the solid color selection, but would stay away from the light colors or because you’ll see the seam allowances through the Harper Changing Pad. You can also find great waterproof oxford at DSS which is heavier and you can find fun prints to use.
Project Inspiration
Enjoy all of these incredible versions of the Maya and Harper Travel Changing Set by my tester group. Click through each image to the maker’s IG feed if you would like to follow them on their sewing journey!
Please note, the position of the magnetic snaps were adjusted after testing on the final pattern templates.
Made by Yasmin Schmalix
Made by Yasmin Schmalix
Made by Tricia Stadelbacher
Made by Tricia Stadelbacher
Made by Nela Barrow
Made by Nela Barrow
Made by Mallory Theiss
Made by Mallory Theiss
Made by Ruth Bhakta
Made by Ruth Bhakta
Made by Sherrene Mar-Tang
Made by Sherrene Mar-Tang
Made by Tiahna Conrad
Made by Tiahna Conrad
Made by Maggie Marconi
Made by Maggie Marconi
Made by Emily Isaacson
Made by Emily Isaacson
Made by Jean Werling
Made by Jean Werling
Made by Nikki Hartnett
Made by Nikki Hartnett
I hope you enjoy making sewing baby gifts as much as me! Please don’t forget to tag your projects with #MayaAndHarperTravelChangingSet and #LoveYouSewPatterns so I can see your fantastic makes on social media!
Hugs and Stitches!
Cristy
There are affiliate links in this post and you can read up about my disclosures here.
Hacking patterns is just so much fun when you can add more personal details to a project. Today, I’m sharing what I did for the backpack I made for real-life Abbey (the bag’s namesake.) This post includes a cover for the front zipper, button stud and leather accents, and where I’ve added rivets. The Abbey Convertible Backpack is the latest pattern I’ve published and you can read up more about here, as well as check out all of the incredible tester photos for inspiration.
My Abbey is one of my nieces with a such a kind heart and adventurous spirit. She is incredibly intelligent and is now a physical therapist in Michigan. She has always been a straight shooter and that’s why I love her and hope to catch her sometime this summer. Abbey is quite the outdoors-person and goes backpacking on her own all the time. This southwestern-insprired woven fabric reminds me of her and all the probable sunsets (and sunrises) she’s seen on her many trips.
Front Zipper Cover
With the bold stripes on this woven fabric, I thought the exposed welt zipper on the original sewing pattern broke up the fabric design too much. I wanted the stripes to continue all around the bag to show off its beauty and not compete with it. So, I made a simple cover by creating a tube which runs the length of the bag and is secured right above the zipper opening.
To make the cover, follow all of the steps to complete the welt zipper pocket on the original pattern found here and then:
Cut (1) 12″ x 2 1/2″ of Main Fabric and (1) 12″ x 1″ of Woven Interfacing. Fold the Cover in half length-wise with right sides together. Place the long edge of the woven interfacing wrong side together against the fold. Fuse the interfacing per manufacturer’s instructions.
Re-fold the Cover with RST and sew 1/4″ seam along the raw long edge creating a tube. Back-stitch well
Use a safety pin and attach it within the seam allowance. With the safety pin closed, push it through the tube.
Carefully direct the safety pin through to the other side of the tube pulling the tube right side out.
Press the tube flat with seam at the top.
Line up the Cover with the Welt Zipper opening covering the top-stitching and extend that line all the way out to the sides of the Front Exterior. Pin the Cover into place. Carefully top-stitch the cover to the Front Exterior with a 1/16″ seam allowance using a zipper foot and moving the zipper pull out of the way, as needed. Trim the sides of the cover to match the sides of the Front Exterior. Sew the rest of the Abbey as instructed.
Rivet Accents
I LOVE adding rivets to my bags. They give such a professional and polished look which really elevates any handmade accessory. The best part is they are also functional — allowing me to secure parts (especially thick substrates) of the Abbey together which would otherwise have to be sewn.
Rivets were used in making the strap and also at many of the connection points with all the hardware connectors. You can see how I used two different sized caps to vary the look. I use a hardware press to install most of my rivets, but when I need to get close up to the rings like here on the Handle Base, I’ll use manual setting tools like this set from Tandy Leather (aff link.)
Leather Closure Tab with Button Stud
As part of the cutting instructions of the Abbey Convertible Backpack, I also added in finished dimensions if you would like to use leather, vinyl, cork or suede accents, like I did with this bag. I used leather with the Handle, Handle Base, lower D-Ring Connectors, Bottom and Closure Tab. However, I did change up the Closure Tab with the addition of a Button Stud.
I used a 8mm brass screw-in Button Stud (aff link) in lieu of the magnetic snap to keep the bag closed. It was attached it to the Exterior front by punching a hole for the screw (using the same placement as the magnetic snap) and adding a touch of glue inside the stud to hold. It’s really that easy and a big reason why I love to use them, just like with my free Kelly Waist Bag Pattern.
For the Closure Tab:
Cut (2) 1/2″ x 4 1/4″ pieces of leather and glued them wrong sides together. Cut an angle on one end 3/8″ down for just some visual interest.
Top-stitch 1/8″ all around the closure using a walking (or Teflon) foot and leather needle
For the button holes, use a 4mm hole punch to cut (2) holes – 1″ and 1 3/4″ from the longest end of the Closure Tab. Add a 1/8″ vertical cut at the top of each opening. This allows the Button Stud to fit through the hole, but not to fall out on it’s own with movement and wear. TIP: I would recommend adding the holes after the bag is fully assembled so you can check placement.
These are all simple hacks to really change up the look of the Abbey Convertible Backpack and to make it personal. The leather accents help to add more sophistication to the look as well. Who can tell this bag is even handmade?!? I hope Abbey loves her new bag and continues to enjoys her outdoor treks!
Are you digging the hacks to my bag patterns? Let me know if there any you would like to see in the comments below. I will try to make them happen!
Happy Sewing Friends,
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links for which I may receive a small commission if you would make a purchase. Any compensation goes directly to running this website and keeping it as ad-free as I can. Thanks for your support!
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