Fabric Face Mask Tutorial Using Ties

When schools shut down in mid-March for my kids’ school, I knew something big was happening.  In addition to US news, I follow a lot of news out of Asia and the outlook was pretty bleak for us in the states.  So when the government, along with a multitude of healthcare organizations said we short on Personal Protective Equipment (PPE,) I was shocked.  But then came the pleading of all sewists to start making fabric masks…and I was just like you…How can a FABRIC mask do anything against an airborne VIRUS???

But I fell in line like a good soldier and just started making masks with the guidance given by the CDC and a host of other online resources.  Initially, I tried out this Fu Mask version that was more contoured to the face, but it left a lot of room around my cheeks and even my husband’s (which is more full with a  beard.)  The fit was not the greatest and I ended up folding a dart in to take out the excess room.  However,  I knew if I was going to make and donate masks, I needed to make a version that was going to fit the largest range of faces AND be conducive to production sewing…aka…sewing a TON of them at a time.

The standard pleated surgical style was it.  The rectangle shape makes it a quick sew and the pleats allow a roomy fit for all different face shapes.  But instead of over-the-ear elastic, I chose to use fabric ties help accommodate for different head sizes and for medical sterilization purposes.  Early on, we just didn’t know how elastic would hold under continuous high temperature washings at medical facilities.  Also, elastic was hard to come by with everyone making masks for the lack of national PPE supplies.  My first 200 donations went to private practice doctors, police officers and workers at a mental health facility.  So I wanted to make sure these could all be cleaned in industrial washing machines without compromising the integrity of the elastic.  With all of this, I also had to choose a style that I could personally make the quickest way.  So this is the technique I used.

Click into my video below to watch the entire mask-making progress.  You will need:

  • (2) 9″ x 7″ rectangles of fabric – one for lining and one for exterior.  I used fleece for the lining when it was still cooler outside, but then switched to quilt cotton for both layers once weather began to warm up.
  • (4) 18″ Ties – These can be make from bias strips as shown in the video but can be swapped out with  twill tape, ribbon, shoelaces, and even piping rope.

Although, the first few months of the pandemic were quite frantic with home-schooling and then  making masks, I’m still so thankful to have the gift of sewing in my life.  I felt my heart swell with every mask made and delivered to those working on the front lines. <3

 

Take care of your loved ones and WEAR THAT MASK!!!!

Cristy

Working Out with Ciré by Pine Crest Fabrics

With a short, petite frame and hips two sizes larger than my waist, I’ve struggled to find athletic wear that won’t roll or shift down while I move.  Even with poor luck with the big name athleisure companies, I started making my own work out clothes a few years ago and haven’t turned back since.  The fabric and compression fit are important factors to me and why I am SUCH a big fan of Pine Crest athletic fabrics.  I was pretty stoked when they asked me to work with their gorgeous Blazer Floral Printed Ciré fabric since I was curious to see how it felt and moved with it’s liquid-like look.

You can understand my love for this company by checking out my other makes using Pine Crest fabrics like my Full-Zip Rashguard, Textured Web Athleisure Capsule, and Holiday dress with their Stretch Velvet.

 

FABRIC

When I was first asked to work with the Blazer Floral Printed Ciré, I honestly admit, I was a little hesitant about how it would look and feel.  Would it be TOO shiny?  I mean, I do like some flash…but I don’t consider my style to be flash-yyy…  Would it have a “plastic” coating to it?  Would I end up sticking to it when I work out?  There were so. many. questions.

Well, I’m so glad I took the plunge because this fabric is A-MAZING!  While there is remarkable shine and sheen to the top of the fabric, the Ciré is not “sticky” at all.  It is smooth to the touch and is completely matte on the reverse, making it SO comfortable and soft.  The fabric is 80% Nylon, 20% Spandex, 195GSM, and has a generous 56/58″ WOF.  There is ~40% four-way stretch with GREAT compression — making this fabric ideal for working out, dancing and even swimwear.  You can check out more the full line of Ciré fabrics including more colors and prints here.

In addition to the amazing base cloth, the Blazer Floral Printed Ciré  has these stunning gold foil flowers that stretch and move beautifully with the fabric.  There are also subtle black printed shadows of the same flowers that give the fabric even more depth and texture.  I’ve washed this fabric twice and even tried to pick at the foil a little bit, and it is not coming off!  The fabric has remained vibrant with that signature sheen and even with all the stretching, the gold foil recovers back to a smooth finish — winner!

PATTERN

The true test of the Ciré is how it sews up and wears on the body.  So, I chose the Greenstyle Creations Power Sports Bra and Stride Athletic Tights (because…pockets!)  With the floral print, I made sure to take extra care with pattern placement with nothing odd coming out off the crotch and rear areas.  (We’ve all made those mistakes before!)  I LOVE the scale and how the foil flowers look on the body.  There is a nice balance between the gold and the navy base.  Too bad my Zumba studio is still closed, else, I’d be showing this off!

I used both my Juki MO-2000QVP Serger and Juki MCS-1700QVP Coverstitch to make both of these pieces.  It’s been awhile since I last used my Coverstitch machine and I was riding high on my “great” sewing skills on the first pass of the leggings…..until I went to try them on….and heard a series of pops.  Ugh!  I had to remove all of the thread and coverstitch again…only to go back and repeat.  SMH.  Even though I eventually got it right,  the Blazer Floral Printed Ciré took a pounding at the seams with so many additional punctures that were certainly not necessary.  With other stretch fabrics, the area would have been worn down and fuzzed up. But to my surprise, there didn’t seem to be any additional wear! This was kinda shocking since I really beat up the fabric.

With the reverse of the fabric being matte, I couldn’t help flip it over for a subtle accent.  You can see I used the matte side on the back of the tights and in the band and straps of the Power Sports Bra.  I love the extra use out of the same Blazer Floral Printed Ciré!

Other Pattern Notes:

  • Power Sports Bra
    • Made the  34C U-back with extra wide band
    • Stitched down the sides of band to keep from shifting
    • Used reverse side of fabric for the lining
  • Stride Athletic Tights
    • Made the Medium from hips down
    • Graded to Small in waist using curved add-on waistband
    • Add Power net to waistband along with elastic
    • Shortened pattern by 1.5″
    • Cut the cropped length
    • Added optional gusset for full range movement

PROJECT SUMMARY

I hope you are inspired to try out some new fabric that might not necessarily be your style…you maybe surprised with the results!

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 


Fabric for this post was provided by Pine Crest Fabric.  Project conception and all opinions are my own.  

There maybe (noted) affiliate links in this post.  For my full disclosures, click here.

Hardware || Install Rivets by Hand

Of all the things I’m asked about in my sewing, I get the most questions about hardware.  It’s such an easy way to take a project to the next level like with the Megan Bucket Bag and Claire Foldover Clutch hack.  ‘Just an extra touch of metal can really take a bag from “homemade” to “handcrafted.”  That’s exactly what I was looking for in my bag creations.  Before I got a “fancy” hardware press, I installed all my rivets by hand for at least a year.  And even with the press, I still set them manually based on my needs.  Below is a quick video to show you how to install rivets and lots of my personal tips as well!

Megan Bucket Bag

Claire Fold-over Clutch

 

Materials

First, you need the right materials.  Below are the materials and links (some affiliate) which I use in the video.

  • Steel Jeweler’s Bench – This is a small but mighty block and handles all of my own personal hardware needs.  I used to set rivets on the basement floor (which you shouldn’t do, but we’ll discuss that later) and this block is such a game changer so I can use my own cutting table and not have to go down two flights of steps.
  • Fabric Hole Punch Pliers – This type of punch plier is by far my favorite.  The bed of the tool where you place your fabric is plastic vs. metal.  Some people like the metal bed because it will last longer, but I MUCH prefer the plastic bed because you will get better cuts and the actual hole bit will stay sharp longer.  Yes, the bed will begin to wear away but there is a replacement and each one will last you a long time…probably longer than the bit.
  • Rivet Setter – My preferred tool is this larger 9mm one because I personally use rivets with caps this large.  This will be able to set smaller ones too!
  • Concave Anvil – Since I’m using double-cap rivets, a concave anvil is needed to keep the shape  of the other cap, else it will completely flatten.
  • Hammer – I’ve used a few different hammers – small and large and I really like this Fiskar’s one.  The grip is comfortable and the 12 oz head allows for a good solid strike.  You can certainly use a mallet instead, but I’ve had good luck with just a hammer.
  • Double-Cap Rivets – These are the “small” rivets with an 8 mm head and 6 mm stem.  I use this size the most for decorative application and will move up to a longer stem for thick folded straps.  I prefer double to single cap rivets purely for inventory purposes to handle all of my needs.

Process

In the video, I take you through both leather and fabric applications which are pretty much the same.  I included a few tips but want to elaborate a little more based on my own experience.

  • Work at counter-height – For me, my results are MUCH better when I work at counter-height (while standing) versus working on the floor.  I know when you first start out, the concrete basement or garage floor might be the hardest surface you have and this is definitely how I started out with rivet application.  But there is something about leaning over a project that increases the arc (maybe?) of my swing and I ended up with a lot of crooked, ill-placed rivets.  So, if you can, I highly suggest working on an old table – over one of the legs for extra stability.

  • Select the right size rivet for EACH project – Initially, you may get the urge to just buy one size to fit all of your needs, but there is a reason there are SO many difference size combinations.  While the cap is more for aesthetics, the stem length is key in a proper application.  I recommend about 3-5mm stem longer than the thickness of your project when you finger-press down on it.  You want the stem to be long enough to mushroom into the cap.  Else, your project may pull apart later with use.  But you don’t want it so long that it could “over-mushroom” and damage the cap.  The extra length also provides more opportunity for a crooked installation.  So, that’s why you want to minimize your risk.  6mm and 8mm posts were pretty much all I used for a long time and then I expanded out later when I was working with thicker substrates

  • Hold Setter down at base close to rivet – This provides the most control so the setter is aligned and straight over the rivet.  If you hold the setter too high, the impact of the hammer may move the setter and you could get an unsightly imprint on the cap.
  • Spin the rivet between your fingers to check for a proper application (1:18 in video) – You know that the rivet is completely installed when you can’t rotate it between your fingers.  It shouldn’t be able to move at all.  If the rivet is still loose or you can still see the stem, go back and install again.

Abbey Convertible Backpack

If you do have a crooked installation or accidentally mis-aligned the setter on a rivet cap, I’ll show you how to remove a rivet with next week’s blog post.  Please share below if you have even more tips to help along fellow readers!

 

Enjoy!

 

Cristy

 

 

 


This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read about all of my disclosure here.

Megan Bucket Bag – Sewing Pattern

She is HERE!!!!!  What started as just a fun experiment in bag design (just for myself!) has turned into the latest new pattern, the Megan Bucket Bag.  This has been a labor of love with over a year passing since I first made it…..and then an extra month delay as the country locked down and I turned my efforts to PPE.  At times, it seemed like this pattern would never be published, but with all of your encouragement and an incredible tester team, it is available today in my shop!

Namesake

This bag is named after another one of my sweet nieces, Megan.  Every time I would see her, she always carried around a large purse and I knew a generously sized bucket bag would HAVE to be her’s!  She was always an avid reader and so this bag can carry around a small library if needed.  Megan loves  theater and has SUCH a beautiful voice.  It only made sense to have plenty of mix and match bag options for whatever “role” would come next.  Like my dear Megan, this bag is practical yet has just enough edge to stand out from the crowd.

Background

I’ve made nine different versions of the Megan Bucket Bag, starting with the OG, made with buttery taupe cowhide, which you can read about here.  This is STILL my everyday bag with the neutral color and has really held up well – as you would expect from genuine leather!  However, in order to turn this design into a bag pattern, I knew I had to edit it down.  For me, this is the hard part of creating patterns.  I had to adapt all of the features so that you could also make it in fabric, in leather, or a mix of both! This was another prototype version you can check out here.  This was my first fabric version I made while, of course, holding onto the leather details.  I still love that extra thin piece of leather on top of the strap….I’ll have to remember that for my next Megan bag!

Features

After teaching many bag classes and workshops, I know that many students want to make professional looking bags, but don’t necessarily have all the right equipment – including a heavy duty sewing machine.  So my goal with the construction, was to use some alternative techniques to take the bulk out of bag-making.  This helps to think outside the box so you can make bags with a wider array of equipment…not just industrial grade machines. “The Megan Bucket Bag is a fresh take on the classic slouchy bag silhouette, but with a more pronounced cube shape. The lines are clean with side seams hidden by overlays and rivets. There are two different views whether you want to make the Megan out of one fabric, or if you would like to use a raw-edge accent fabric to add a little more depth to the look.  With this pattern, you will learn different strap making techniques to take the bulk out of your fabric and gain ways to present a welt zipper pocket with plates or a cover. You will also learn an off-set bag technique for the overlays that won’t compromise your side seam stitching. There are plenty of options with snaps and the use of accent fabric for you to mix and match for your perfect bag.” This is a pattern for you to learn:
  • 2 -layer straps
  • Off-set overlay sewing to keep the integrity of the side seams
  • 4 different ways to present a welt zipper pocket with 2 plate options, a cover, or left bare.
  • Slip Pocket with an overlay
  • Connectors to help hold sides together
View A was designed for a single fabric and perfect for a newer bag-maker who wants to just use canvas.  This is a great way to start and learn new purse techniques without having to deal with other substrates.  However, this same version can be used with a single faux leather and still have a striking look. This view has a handy outside pocket with a cover to keep the look smooth and sleek but still has other details like the strap loops to add more interest. View B uses an accent fabric such as leather, suede, cork or vinyl that can be left raw edged without fraying.  These substrates are great looks to add more depth and texture to a bag.  The accent fabric is incorporated on to the side overlays, strap, and is used as decorative plating against the zipper pocket and slip pocket.  However, you can also swap out the accent fabric with some webbing to speed up your project. This pattern was written with mid-weight accent fabrics in mind with 2-3mm thickness to have enough structure in the strap.  However, I know there are a number of other fabrics you may want to use that are lighter and thinner – especially many types of cork.  Consider adding a second layer of accent fabric to the back of the strap as shown below.  Play around and see what you like!

Hardware

The main aesthetic element to the Megan Bucket Bag is the side overlay with a row of bright beautiful rivets.  Although I’ve used rivets for a long time with my bags, they were only in the patterns as alternation options for securing straps and such.  This time, the rivets are the featured stars and are not just for looks, but also for structural purposes.  They help secure the strap in place around the gorgeous O-rings.  This give such a strong, yet delicate look. To help hold the shape of the bag and keep contents safe, four sets of snaps are added to the lining.  They help keep the cube shape of the Megan while still staying slouchy like a good bucket bag does.  The purse can then be easily expanded by just releasing the snaps. Although the pattern includes the use of rivets and snaps, there are no actual instructions to install them.  Since there are SO many different types of hardware out there with multiplied by different tastes of the sewist, there was no way to include instructions for everything.  Rivets can be single sided and double-sided.  They can be shaped like pyramids, domes, or flat like burrs.  Snaps also have a number of  different sizes and features as well.  I prefer “spring” double cap snaps, but you can use magnetic or even sew-in snaps too!  This pattern allows you to use YOUR preference of material.   But just like with interfacing, you must remember to follow manufacturer’s instructions.  I’ll be showing my preferred methods of rivet and snap installations all next week, so keep an eye out!!! There are truly SO many different ways to make the Megan Bucket Bag.  If you are ready to make your own, click below for the pattern AND the hardware kits….it doesn’t get any easier, right?

|| Click HERE to shop the Megan Bucket Bag Pattern || 

|| Click HERE to shop The Hardware Kits ||

Project Details:

Tester Inspiration

There is nothing better than seeing all of your makes with my patterns.  Here are even more great versions from my testers to inspire your Megan Bucket Bag: I cannot wait to see all of your makes!!! Happy Sewing, Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my full disclosure here.

Pattern Review: Aida Top in Verona Voile

This post was originally published August 13, 2019 for the Imagine Gnats Blog.  Since the shop closed in early 2020, I have republished my contributors posts (with permission) to this blog.  I have included some additional thoughts and pictures after some real-life wear and tear.  Enjoy!

In Ohio, we are in the dog days of summer, and this hazy heat is beating down on all of us. It’s at the point of just scorching outside or freezing inside almost all buildings with the air conditioning blasting to compensate for the weather.

So, I’ve been on the hunt for a lightweight woven fabric and a shirt pattern with some nice ease for a loose and breezy top (enter my voile Aida top). I was so happy to see this Verona Voile (aff link) and had to have it!  Then all I could think about was pairing it with the Aida Top by Sew Liberated.

Fabric

When I first saw the Verona, I loved that it was voile. I love the lightweight characteristics of this type of fabric, but was curious to the fact that it’s a 50/50 of cotton and rayon. Well, now I can say that it’s a great combination because it allows more drape which makes for a great summer fabric.

If you look closely, you’ll be able to see the great puckered texture the Verona Floral Voile has after washing. It’s not like a seer-sucker with the same repeat waffle texture, but it’s like striped puckering which has been woven in. It’s absolutely gorgeous, and I became a quick fan…since I don’t have to worry about wrinkles anymore!

There are two colors of this Verona Voile Floral – navy blue and yellow. Since I just finished a few blue chambray projects, I wanted to add a little color to my wardrobe with the yellow.

It’s not a color I wear a lot, but I figured I’d go big with the yellow and large flowers since it WAS going to be a summer shirt after all 😉

Pattern

The Aida Top is a new addition to the Imagine Gnats pattern library, and I was pretty stoked to sew it up. It had everything I was looking for: lots of ease, shirt-tail hem, v-neck, button placket, AND written for lightweight woven fabrics.

I was mostly drawn to the v-neck button placket because its a popular style I’ve been seeing with strappy tanks lately.

Based on my measurements, I am an 8 in the bust and also in the waist. With my hips (that don’t lie), I clock at a size 12. With all the ease in this top and after reading some other reviews, I felt pretty comfortable sewing a straight size 8.

You can see in the profile shot of the shirt that the voile Aida top still clears my backside with room to spare! Woohoo!

There are two views of the Aida with either a flat-front or with gathering, and I chose the latter. I like the extra shaping and added texture it has. I also sewed the shirt-tail hem as written, but I think a cropped boxy version would also be great in this pattern.

My arms are on the heavier side for a size 8. RTW woven shirts are generally tight around my biceps and were always tough for me to find since I didn’t want to wear something that was then bigger everywhere else.

My arms fit into the sleeves as drafted, but I wanted a little more ease to be consistent with the look of the top. I reduced the seam allowance by 1/4″ for a little extra breathing room. I also added a 1″ cuff on each sleeve for an extra detail and visual interest.

Since I love to use buttons from my MIL’s old stash, I found 5 black ones which were pretty close matches. The pattern calls for 7, but I thought 5 was enough.

Even though I didn’t use the recommended 7, I do wish there was a button template just to know where to place the top button. I had to do a good bit of trial and error to figure out where it should go while keeping a flat neckline, but everything did work out!

The Aida Top in this Verona rayon/cotton voile is just a dream shirt for the summer. I wore it during a heat wave and was so impressed with the airiness and soft feel….making the heat (slightly) more bearable 🙂

I hope you grab some of this fabric and make a voile Aida top of your own soon!!!

{Edited May 2, 2020}

Since making this top in August, I’ve worn it at least another dozen times and have yet to iron it –so the textured voile is definitely a winner!  The fabric washes well and the texture is still perfectly waffled.  I just broke it out for the first time this year since the temperatures jumped about 20*F.  But with Covid-19 quarantine and all the additional baking happening… I need some coverage while still being  breathable, and this is it.  The  Aida is still a winner in a my book!  Below are updated links if you would like to make your own:

 

Happy Sewing!

Cristy

 


This post may contain affiliate links.  You can read about my disclosures here.