Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 2: Make the Strap and Key Fob

Welcome Back to the Erin Backpack Sew Along!  We are now on Part 2: Making the Strap and Key Fob.  If you missed any of the prior blog posts, you can find them below:

Now let’s get to it!

MAKE THE STRAP

For the Sew Along, I have this great Expedition Dry Oilskin Canvas that is 61″ wide.  So, I’m happily skipping steps 9-10 to piece the strap together.  Again, since this is a treated canvas, I cannot use heat and fuse woven interfacing to it.  At 9 oz in weight, it’s okay on it’s own!

[Steps – ]  Click into the video above to watch the entire Strap making process.  As you watch, please note the following:

  • Adding nylon webbing is a great way to add strength to a strap, especially if you cannot interface it (like with laminates and waxed canvas.)  I show the option in the video, but do not add it to my project due to the thickness of my fabric already.
  • If you are worried about bulk at the end of your straps, one of my bag testers recommends this technique –>
  • Use Fray Check to help seal the ends.  I like to add the seam sealant, let it dry and then come back to trim it.
  • If you need additional help setting Rivets manually, go to this post.

 

MAKE THE KEY FOB

With the Dry Oilskin canvas being so thick, it would create such a big folded knob relative to the  1/2″ Swivel Clasp.  So, for this the sew along, I used the lining fabric instead.

 

[Steps 18-20] Click into the video above for the entire Key Fob making process.

  • If you need additional help setting Rivets manually, go to this post.

 

Hope you are doing well with this short Part 2!  Drop any questions you may have in the comments!  Now I’ll see you next week for the Erin Sew Along Part 3:  Making the Back Panel.

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  For my full Disclosures, read here.

Erin Backpack Sew Along || Part 1: Cutting, Interfacing and Hardware Prep

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Welcome to Part 1 of the Erin Sew Along: Cutting, Interfacing and Hardware Prep.  If you have missed out on the previous posts, please read them first before proceeding:

If you have done your pre-work, let’s get started!  Please remember that this Sew Along is SUPPLEMENTAL to the actual pattern instructions.  You will receive extra tips and tricks on the blog, but make sure you read through all pattern steps FIRST!

CUTTING FABRIC

[Step 1] I don’t know about you, but this is probably the most tedious part of the process to me.  With more complicated bags comes a lot more parts and pattern pieces.

  • The Erin Backpack comes with 24 different pattern templates for you to cut out and help keep track of your bag parts with a pin or clip.  Make sure to assemble the PDF pattern by lining up the GRAY lines, but cut your templates on the BLACK.  The patten templates are laid out to minimize the amount of paper used.
  • For all of you who love a rotary cutter and ruler (myself included!) there is also Measure and Mark table as part of the instructions.
  • There is also a flat lay of all the pattern pieces to help you visualize everything that needs to be cut. I like to use the flat-lay to double-check that I have everything needed to get started.

***Please note the only paper template missing is the Strap.  (For a large rectangle, it takes up a lot of paper and after taking a survey of bag-makers, they would rather have the measurements than to waste the paper and so I tend to take this course.)  However, there IS a square placeholder with the templates you can use to help keep track of the fabric!

If you are looking to match fabric designs, it’s best to line everything at the base of the Main and Lining pieces.  The Fronts are slightly shorter than the back pieces to accommodate the zipper width.

For those looking for the hack to add permanent back straps to the Erin, head here for the additional materials.  I will be adding them to my bag, but will still reference the original parts of the bag if you still want the convertible back strap options.

INTERFACING

[Step 2] The majority of the fusing will be to the Lining pieces.   Because of that, I like to do this first and block fuse as much as I can — This is when you interface the fabric first and then go back to cut out the pieces, reducing time spent cutting.  The downside is that you may end up with more fused fabric than what’s needed, but I keep everything to make pouches later on.  You will fuse the following with woven interfacing:

  • Front and Back Lining
  • Top and Bottom Lining
  • Front  Welt Pocket
  • Front Elastic Pockets (but only on the half which faces the inside after being folded)*
  • Pop-put Pocket Main* + Lining
  • Back Slip Pocket Main* + Lining
  • Interior Welt Pocket
  • Interior Slip Pocket
  • Interior Elastic Pockets
  • Key Fob

I am using a treated canvas and per manufacturer’s instructions, I cannot iron it and can only finger-press seams into place.  With the fabric being so heavy at 9 oz, I’m skipping the woven interfacing on the parts marked with an (*).  So if you are using vinyl or a waxed canvas, consider the same changes.  If you are looking more a more structured bag and can’t iron the fabric, then consider a sew-in interfacing instead of the the fusible.  Additionally, If you want to use the Back Slip Pocket to hold a tablet or small laptop, consider adding foam to the main fabric.

[Step 3] When it comes to basting the Main fabric onto the (non-fusible) foam, I like to use a larger piece of foam, baste, and THEN come back to trim it.  If you have never basted before, it is a technique of securing fabric together with thread (either by hand or machine.)  I crank my machine up to the longest stitch length (6mm) and will baste the pieces together.  You will baste:

  • Top + Bottom
  • Back Panel
  • SKIP the Front Panel for now – The Front Welt Pocket needs to be sewn in BEFORE the foam is basted in.

As you baste every several stitches, smooth the fabric outward so it is nice and taut against the foam.

Once finished basting, you can trim the excess foam away from each piece of the bag and set aside.

[Step 4] Now it’s time to grab the Top + Bottom LINING Pieces.  I like to label the firm interfacing to make sure I don’t mix up the pieces since each one will be sewn in differently.  The Bottom firm interfacing is attached with regular stitching whereas the Top is basted in — since the stitching will be removed later for a clean finish.  *If you are using a laminate for the lining, I would skip the basting (You don’t want to create permanent holes in the top lining when we remove stitching later) and either lightly glue the firm interfacing into place or consider permanently sewing it into place like the bottom.

CUTTING ACCENT FABRIC

You should have the following pattern pieces with the accent fabric:

  • Zipper Plate
  • D-Ring Tab
  • Handle Base
  • Rectangle Ring Tab
  • Back Strap Tabs
  • Accessory Strap
  • Handle + optional*
  • Front Strap Tabs

*In the pattern, I cut (2) Handles for more strength.  But you are welcome to make a double-fold or even a Rolled Handle like this one, depending on the thickness of your accent fabric.

With all of the Accent Fabric, I like to use a rotary cutter (or craft knife in tighter spots) and ruler as much as possible to create nice straight lines. But it’s hard to get the same precision for curved lines.

With the Zipper Plate, I’ll use any random round object like a metal washer (my preferred device, but of course, I couldn’t find it for this post..) or a thread spool around my house to use as a guide for my craft knife.  This allows for a more uniform look at the corners.  For the smoothest line, try to cut every curve in one motion and don’t forget to practice first!

Alternatively, if you don’t want to bother with curves and want to make things more simple, you can just cut the zipper plate as a full rectangle and then snip a uniform 45* right triangle off every corner like this Zipper Plate above.

Additionally, for all my zipper plate use, I love the 1/2″ flat blade in this knife kit.  It’s the perfect size to cut into the plate and I love the variety of blade for all my crafting needs.

Once you are finished cutting through all the accent fabric, you can optionally seal the edges with your preferred method.  The faux leather I used as part of the instructions has a felt backing, so it didn’t require any sealing.  However, this cork I’m using for the sew along has a woven fabric backing and I do like to seal.  You can do so by using a seam sealant like Fray Check or using Leather Paint like in this post (with video!)

Prep hardware

[Step 5-8]  Click into the video above for the hardware prep, including how to sew the rings into place. Use a light uniform amount of glue to encase all the rings per instructions.  You want enough to keep the tabs attached, but not so much that it will effect your sewing (needles can stick to the glue and throw off timing.)

Although in Step 7, it mentions to add rivets to the Back Strap Rings, I suggest you wait until the backpack is complete.  This will make it easier to sew the tabs in place and you don’t have to worry about avoiding the rivets with your sewing machine.

 

Phew!  That was a good bit of work just to prep the Erin Backpack.  If you have any questions, please comment below.  Next up, I’ll be post Part 2: Making the Strap and Key Fob, so stay tuned!

 

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read my Disclosures for all affiliate info.

Erin Backpack Hack || Make Sew-in Backpack Straps

I get it!  Not everyone wants to continually switch out the Erin Backpack straps for the over-the-shoulder/cross-body style.  I also understand that the convertible nature of the backpack strap leads to uneven shifting on the strap as well.  So, if you find yourself wanting the Erin Backpack to have permanent double back straps since that’s how you wear it the most, then this hack is for you!!

TUTORIAL

This tutorial assumes you will still make the strap as drafted in the pattern for over your shoulder and/or cross-body needs.  All materials needed will be IN ADDITION to the original supply list.

Materials Needed:

  • (2) 36″ x 6″ cuts of Main Fabric + Woven Interfacing
  • (2) 1 1/2″ Strap Sliders
  • (2) 1 1/2″ Swivel Clasps
  • Lengthen #17 Handle Base to 14 1/2″ x 2″

Material you can omit from original pattern:

  • #19 Rectangle Ring Accent Fabric
  • (1) Rectangle Ring

INSTRUCTIONS:

  • Make straps according to the pattern following Steps #11-12. You will have (2) separate 36″ x 1 1/2″ straps.

  • Click into video above  to add the Slider and a Swivel Clasp to each Strap.  Each Strap will have one raw end which will later be sewn into the handle base.

 

  • Mark the Handle Base using the original template centered on the back, but omitting the Rectangle Ring markings

 

  • With the wrong side of the Handle Base facing up, glue the Handle into place.  If you like the look of the Rolled Handle instead of the flat style in the pattern, you can find the tutorial to make it here.

 

  • With the wrong side of the straps facing up, glue the raw short edges to the outside of each handle, aligning the raw edges. (Please note, I was playing around with which direction the handle should face, so that’s why it’s different in this pic.)

 

  • Now you can flip the base right side facing up and continue at Step #24 of the Erin Backpack pattern.  Remember to keep the straps out of the way as you continue construction for the rest of the Erin Backpack.

 

I hope you enjoy this hack!  If you decide to just use the shoulder strap, these double backpack straps can easily be tucked into the back slip pocket!

 

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

 

Tutorial: Make a Simplified Rolled Handle with Less Layers

If you are looking to really make a bag look CLASSY, a rolled handle can instantly add that sophistication.  That’s why I added them into my Colleen Tote Bag pattern!  It adds more durability and strength than flat handles and the round style makes it SO much more comfortable in the hands!

The instructions for rolled handles in the Colleen are manageable on home machines….as long as you are going through fabric and not other substrates.  EIGHT layers of canvas can be managed with a heavy duty needle and increased stitch length.  However, if you want to make the same kind of handles with cork, vinyl or leather….you can pretty much forget about it — unless you have an industrial machine.  Well, now, you can still have these type of handles with your DOMESTIC MACHINE!!!  This tutorial will take you through an alternative method to make rolled handles with only 4 layers  — perfect for those thicker raw edge substrates!

Tutorial

Please note this rolled handle example is for the Erin Backpack, but the same technique would be the same for the Colleen Tote.

1. Cut the width of your handle 2x what you want the finished ends to be.  In this case, the ends need to be 1″ wide and the cork is cut 2″ wide.  (If you are making the Colleen Tote, you would want your handle to be 3″ wide and not 6″.)

 

2. Mark the center of the strap lengthwise

 

3. Add a very thin layer of glue on each side of the line you marked.

 

4. Fold each long side into the line you drew and clip to secure.  Make sure the sides meet each other in the center.  Wait until all glue has dried.

 

5. Mark how far up you would like the roll to start/stop.  For the Erin Backpack, I marked 1 1/2″ from each short end.  For the Colleen, it would be 2 1/2″.  Sew the Strap together 1/8″ along the folded sides and then crossing over at your mark.

 

6. Place a thin layer of glue along the center fabric seam,  in-between the top-stitching.  If you are making the Colleen Tote, this is when you would add your cording.  Since this handle is more narrow for the Erin, I’ve omitted any cording.

 

7. Fold long sides together , encasing the fabric seam but only in-between markings.  This created the “roll” of the handle.  Clip in place and allow to dry completely.

*Note how the handle ends have the fabric seam exposed lengthwise.  The glue and stitching will keep the strap intact but this is why this method is meant for non-fraying substrates only.

 

8. Top-stitch along the double-fold side in between markings. (You may need to increase stitch-length to handle the extra layers.) Backstitch well at the start and end of your stitching.

 

9. Double check that all stitching is secure.

 

10.  Optional – Add a rivet right above the end markings to keep the Rolled Handle extra secure.

 

Congratulations!  You have a rolled handle ready for any bag!!!

 

This is how the handle looks placed on the back of the Erin Backpack as part of my Sew Along you can find here.

 

I hope you enjoyed this easier alternative method to making rolled handles with your favorite cork, leather, or vinyl!!!

 

Happy Sewing!

 

Cristy

Tutorial: Seal Edges of Cork, Leather or Vinyl

If you are looking for a simple way to finish the edges of your non-fraying substrates, this is it!  The following tutorial will help you seal the edges of cork, leather, suede and vinyl.  Many of the man-made substrates have a fabric backing which can still fray over time.  Sealing the edges with  paint ensures that you have a clean finish and won’t see any of that fraying.  This tutorial is great for:

TUTORIAL

To get started, these are the Materials Needed (with affiliate links):

  • Project – cork, leather, suede or vinyl
  • Leather Paint- I used “Neutral” as an all-purpose clearcoat
  • Paint Applicator – There are many out in the market and this works well for my needs as long as the post is clean and oiled well
  • Cup/Dish – I use a simple bathroom cup which I can throw away later
  • Emery board or Fine grit sandpaper

 

Click into the video ABOVE to view the full process.

TIP:  In-between coats drying, I like to seal up the extra paint in a bag so that it doesn’t dry out.  This allows me to maximize the paint and the paint has stayed wet for over a day for me.

I hope you enjoy this tutorial to make your projects look even MORE professional!

 

Happy Sewing,

Cristy

 

 

This post may contain affiliate links.  Please read my Disclosures, here.