I know it’s after Labor Day aka the “unofficial” end of summer, but all of a sudden a heat wave just took over here in Ohio.  For the past two weeks, it’s been unseasonable cool with me even wearing a COAT to my nieces soccer game just this past Saturday  – and today it’s 90*F!  This means that summer really isn’t over yet and I’ll be breaking out all of my shorts, including this McCall M7726 (aff link) in View A.

The 90’s influence is definitely still around the fashion world and I’ve been wanting to make this pattern since the beginning of the summer.  This pleated high-waisted style completely reminds me of my childhood…before flares jeans took over. LOL. I was drawn to the loose fit around the thighs, the pleated details and of course, that high waist!  It doesn’t hurt that this pattern is drafted for wovens I wanted something different from your typical denim and twill short options!

FABRIC

I picked up some Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen late spring in this gorgeous Pink Clay.  This was my first time using the Brussels linen and now I know why it has a cult-like following in the garment world.  It’s still light-medium in weight and breathable like with traditional linen, but has a softer hand and drape with the added rayon content.  It’s incredibly soft and I love how many colors are available.  I have the pink clay color which had been a bit difficult to photograph because it looks more salmon in some light and more orange in other.  I would definitely call it a brown-based coral though.

FEATURES

For the shorts, I made View A, but this pattern also comes with a tapered pant, tapered crop pant, long wide leg pants and and optional sash — I may have to make some pants later into the fall/winter season 😉  This pattern has nice large slash pockets which I love.  The construction is  a bit different than I’ve made before, but it’s only because the pocket was drafted to blend in with the pleats.  Speaking of, there are eight large pleats all around the waist giving that full 90s look we love!  The pleats provides that nice fitted waist while allowing for all that extra ease around the thighs.  I’m sick of shorts digging into my thighs and these don’t do that at all.

McCall’s 7726 also includes a full zip fly, which I definitely put in on the wrong side of the shorts…But no will ever know beside you and me 😉  Can you believe how well this zipper I found in my stash matched the fabric???  The only thing I wish this pattern also included was a zipper shield.  The zipper is fully exposed on the inside.  Fortunately, I’ve been able to tuck in shirts to reduce the rubbing against my stomach.  But this could be a problem for those who may wear a crop top or not tuck in at all.

MODIFICATIONS

I’m sure you already know that McCall’s patterns add quite a bit of ease into their patterns.  I range between sizes 6-10 in indie patterns and 7726 said I should make a 14/16 in the waist and 16/18 in the hip.  Fortunately, there are finished pattern dimensions and I followed that table instead with a size 10.  After wearing these shorts quite a bit, I think I could have sized down to an 8 since the Brussels Washer Linen does relax a little more after wear.

Other pattern adjustments:

• Omitted the cuff  –  There is already a lot going on with the pleats and I wanted a clean hem to balance that out.
• Reduced the rise by 2″ – This is my typical adjustment with high-rise pants.  I’m 5’3″ and these shorts still sit about 1 1/2″ above my navel after the mod.
• Deepened the seat by 1/2″ and Extended the crotch by 3/4″ – These are my typical adjustments for all pants since I have a shelf booty (one that sticks out more toward the back vs more on the hips.)

PLEAT FITTING

This brings to me how I also had to adjust the pleats.  When I first sewed the pleats as instructed, the back pleats shot out from rear at a complete 90 degree angle instead of falling down to the ground as they are suppose to do.  Yeah, not pretty at all!  So I ripped the stitches and refitted the pleats so they would redirect the fabric back down.  As you can see above, I sewed the pleat as directed 2″ down from the fold (to the blue marker.)  Then for the remaining 1 1/2″, I angled each pleat outwards following the shape of my buttocks (to the red marker.)

After a good press directing the pleats down, the fit is SO much better!  This was my first time fitting pleats and it might not be the textbook way to adjust, but I made it work for me.  Also, I should point out that the pleats are folded to the inside of the shorts and I kept those all as instructed (straight seams.)  I hope this works for you if you decide to make this  McCall’s M7726 pattern!

PROJECT SUMMARY

• Pattern:  McCall’s M7726 purchased in-store from JoAnn‘s but also available on Amazon (aff link.)
• Fabric:  Brussels Washer Linen in Pink Clay purchased from Sew to Speak, but also available on Etsy, Minerva and on Fabric.com (aff links)
• Zipper:  YKK Coral from ZipItZippers (aff link)
• Hook and Eye:  Dritz Sew On Closures (aff link)   – These are my favorite to use since they are wider.
• Styling: Necklace from Honey Rose & K; Tank from H&M, Sandals from Target (aff link), Belt from Nordstrom Rack

Please let me know if these pleat adjustments worked out for you or if you have an alternative method!

Hugs and Stitches,

Cristy

This post contains affiliate links.  You can read more about my policies here.