Writing bag patterns is a long process…especially for a one-woman business. My patterns are only successful through the help of the best test team out there! Not only do they make bags with the initial pattern draft and instructions, but they provide so much great feedback as beginner and seasoned bag-makers. I feel very lucky to have all of these incredible sewists with me — especially for the Spring Roll Pouch.
I just love seeing my patterns through the lens of all of you and the testing group gives me that first glimpse. We work out small issues with wording, pictures and how best to show certain steps. When you live with a pattern in your head and on your computer screen for months, it’s hard to step back and see what a typical sewist will see. This team certainly did not disappoint and came through with such great help and you can see it in the pattern.
It’s been quite awhile since I’ve released a bag pattern, but I’m back with the Spring Roll Pouch! Just like my favorite food, the Spring Roll Pouch wraps up so much goodness in one little package. This multi-purpose accessory bag has a great rectangular shape and an angled zipper at the side, making the pouch open to twice its footprint! The main zipper opens to reveal a divided compartment with ample room for all of your craft supplies, cords, skin care and even toys!
With a single piece exterior, this bag has been simplified with sleek style and minimal seams. There are four different inside options of the bag for you to mix and match for your needs. If you want to keep things basic, you can even leave them all off for a streamline version of the pouch. Best of all, the lining finishes with hidden seams for a clean and polished look.
In this bag you will learn how to sew Y-seams (Dots are your friends!) This is when three seams will join together and its definitely needed in the lining. You will also use nylon zipper tape and learn several finishing techniques. This pattern shows how to make a divided compartment pocket and how to make other pocket styles.
Inspiration
When I saw this unique angled zipper and how it can be used to open a pouch to twice its initial footprint, I was intrigued! But of course, I wanted to make the design better than the cheap version I saw in the wild. This meant making it more sleek and most importantly, compatible for a domestic sewing machine.
As I was playing around with ideas, I wondered if it was possible to have a one-piece exterior….and it was! This keeps the Spring Roll Pouch streamline and with less seams, means less sewing. And less sewing, means some saved time! My other main objective was to have a clean finish. This means NO binding (I think you all suffered enough with the Christine Sling) and I wanted to make sure my next release was traditionally “birthed.” 😉
Even after figuring out the design and construction, the name is always the hardest part. But since the Lunar New Year was quickly approaching and I was thinking about all my favorite foods, this pouch reminded me of the yummy Spring Roll. With the bag opening wide and how it “rolls” back up, Spring Roll had to be the name.
The Spring Roll Pouch uses exactly 1 yd of zipper tape, if you choose the Flat Zipper Pocket option. Otherwise, you just need 30″ to complete the bag. I love using nylon zipper tape because of it’s versatility, color and finish options, and how I, personally, don’t need to switch out presser feet for the #5 width. Due to the trickiness of the zipper installation, I used nylon zipper so that it could easily be sewn across and not have to be mindful of ends and stoppers.
Elastic Slots- (2) 6” length of 1/2”-1” wide Elastic
Based on your selection for the Front and Back of the Spring Roll Pouch, you’ll need these optional notions.
Fabric Recommendations
It’s important to know that this pattern was written for canvas and quilt cotton fabrics. The bag making world is huge and there are SO many different fabrics out there. With that number of fabrics combined with all the different types of interfacing, I always have to have some constraint or else the instructions would go on forever. As you select your fabrics, keep in mind the weight, structure and feel with the intended finished bag. Home decor and/or bottom-weight fabrics such as cotton or linen blend canvas, duck cloth, and denim with weights of ~ 6-8 oz/sq yard would be great for the Main Fabric. The Lining is based on quilt cotton and woven fabric with similar weights of ~4 oz/sq yard, such as linen or chambray.
You can use quilt batting, sew-in fleece, or foam with the Main fabric. The quilt batting/sew-In fleece will you a softer, pliable feel while helping to cover the feel of the inside seams. The foam will provide more structure and loft, with more of that “plump” look. If you are using foam, the interior can be made completely with Lining fabric. But if you opt to use batting or sew-in fleece, use Main Fabric for the Base and Front/Back pieces to get added stability.
If you decide to use vinyl, cork, leather or other fabrics with a heavier hand, you may be able to omit interfacing, but still optionally use batting for soft structure. You can also possibly omit interfacing on the interior of the bag if using waterproof canvas, oilcloth, and other coated fabrics with a heavier hand. Due to the angled zipper and the trickiness of closing the pouch, it is recommended to NOT use vinyl, cork or leather as your Base or Front/Back pieces.
With the dimensions I used, I’m very proud that you can use 1/2 yards of fabric and if you want to get scrappy, the interior can be made from fat quarters. The Lunar New Year custom vinyl and cork fabrics I used were sold as 18″ long rolls and the exterior fits right on…even with a little room to spare!
As I was working on this pattern, you KNOW I had to use plenty of other substrates to see how they would look and handle with the Spring Roll Pouch…all in the name of research, right?!? The cork and vinyl versions definitely come together quickly with the omission of interfacing. However, if you are new(er) to bag making, I HIGHLY recommend making your first bag with the canvas/quilt cotton combo.
I’ve included lots of different versions in this post and the following are my favorite combinations as you select your fabrics:
Stamps Version
Main = Cotton/Linen Canvas with Soft & Stable Foam
Lining = Quilt Cotton with Canvas for Front/Back and Bases
Interfacing = Woven
Bunnies Version
Main = Cotton/Linen Canvas with Cotton Quilt Batting
Lining = Quilt Cotton with Canvas for Front/Back and Bases
Lining = Ottertex Waterproof Canvas with Faux Leather
omitted inner lining of Divider Pocket, inner lining of Slip Pocket and inner Gussets
Interfacing = none
Handle = made with single fold
Cork Floral and Palm Versions
Main = Cork only (Portuguese made from Cork and Cloth)
Lining = Ottertex Waterproof Canvas
omitted inner lining of Divider Pocket, inner lining of Slip Pockets
Interfacing = none
Handle = made with single fold
Lunar New Year Version
Main = Vinyl only (custom printed from Sewful Therapy)
Lining = Ottertex Waterproof Canvas
omitted inner lining of Divider Pocket, Slip Pocket, and Flat Zipper Pocket
Interfacing = none
Handle = made with single fold
Construction
This bag was designed with a domestic sewing machine (I use a Juki 2010Q,) so a home machine with some heavier needles will do the trick. It is for an experienced beginner who is familiar with sewing zippers, basting, and y-seams. Although this bag looks complicated, the steps are more simple that you would imagine!
Currently, there is one video on my Love You Sew YouTube Channel that takes you through the most difficult parts of closing the Spring Roll Pouch, but I WILL make a full tutorial soon. Honestly, I didn’t think this pattern would be as popular as it has been and I try to direct my time and resources toward patterns that have a bigger customer base. Well, you definitely let me know and I’ll be working on it this upcoming week.
I hope all of you love the Spring Roll Pouch as much as I have loved writing and designing the pattern for you! Don’t forget to tag your social media posts with #springrollpouch and #loveyousew patterns so I can see your beautiful makes!
Happy Sewing,
Cristy
*This post may contain affiliate links for which I may receive a small commission that helps me run this website. I appreciate all of your support.
This romper was made for Stylemaker Fabrics – summer release campaign with fabric gifted in exchange for my thoughts on sewing and for promotional photos. Please check out the blog post with my thoughts using the fabric, here. If you would like to use this fabulous Lemon Sateen, or check out all of the other lovely new fabrics, you can find them here .
I love working with Stylemaker Fabrics and their huge variety of substrates. So when Michelle reached out again, I just had to say, “yes.” She has a great eye and her curation is always solid if you want to follow trends or if you need some good basics. As a quilter, I also appreciate how Stylemaker also carries the fashion fabrics from all of my favorite independent surface designers. You can find my first collaboration with them when I make some cranberry colored Ginger Jeans and the cropped Sunday Everyday Sweater.
PATTERN
Since I was part of “Bottom-weight” week for the summer release, I always had either some fun trousers or some type of jumpsuit on my mind. So when I saw the fun Lemon Sateen, a light bulb went off in my head and I knew exactly what I would make. I’ve been holding onto this McCall’s M7330 pattern for a minute (like over a year) and knew this pairing would be some lemonade! I have a few jersey knit rompers and know a woven one would be a welcome addition to my wardrobe. They just make getting dressed SO easy. Rompers make a statement already and a bold lemon one will add the jolt of color my closet needs.
With warm weather finally arriving in Ohio and a girls trip planned in Florida, I picked View B for a more tailored romper with a button placket and zipper fly. The pattern also has jumpsuit views that can also take this silhouette more to the safari-type of look. I opted for the cleaner finishes with my make. I made several changes to this pattern — especially after realizing I only had the XS-M version, but needed the medium AND the large templates. Whoops! My hips land me into large, but with very little time left before my vacation, I decided to just move forward using the medium top and bottoms with the following adjustments:
Made 1/2″ bicep adjustments to each sleeve – With summer tops, I always like extra ease around my arms with woven fabrics. You never know if you are stuck outside in 80-90* heat and are literally dying for some more air circulation.
Swapped out gathers around waist for pleats for the top and front bottoms – I like to highlight my waist and keep the silhouette clean. This also reduced bust all around the waistband.
Used only a 3/8″ seam allowance (instead of 5/8″) for bottoms – since I didn’t have the large template
Added a 5/8″ crotch adjustment to back only of bottoms – This is a common adjustment I make on bottoms since my hip measurement tends to fall two sizes larger than my waist and my volume carries towards the back and not spread out on the side saddles.
Added 1/4″ to top center back of bottoms – The extra volume on my backside tends to pull a “V” at the center back, so this is added in to level out the waistband
Added pleats to both sides of back bottoms – I sewed them completely as darts (instead of leaving as pleats) to keep the silhouette smooth
Converted the patch pocket to slash pockets – Again, this was to keep the lines clean and I also didn’t have enough fabric for a matching up the fabric design for patch pocket
Removed the waist tab and realigned the top to be aligned with zipper fly top-stitching – This is completely my own preference for a straight line from the top button placket going all the way down to the fly.
FABRIC
On top of bing incredibly cute and whimsical, this Lemon Sateen also has the benefit of some stretch! Yes, please! That means it can be used for more form-fitting garments and/or ones that will see more movement. I can walk (even run) and sit with absolute ease in my romper. There is also no worry about wedgies or camel toe when you can make your own garment. The added touch of spandex also helps reduce wrinkles that appear more from 100% natural fiber content like cotton and linen. I went out to dinner with my friends in WARM Ft. Lauderdale, FL and was absolutely comfortable. We even went out for a little bit of dancing afterwards and yes, the fabric can handle some salsa!
Since the lemons have a one-way directional print, I would recommend ordering just a little more than needed for a project. I had just enough even after adding in the slash pockets, but wouldn’t have if I made an error in cutting. This fabric is mid-weight IMO and would work in so many different garments. I used an 80/12 needle for this make. Anything larger could snag a thread and disrupt the print, but anything smaller wouldn’t get through the folds and bulk once you join seams.
Before heading out for dinner
Overall, I’m so happy with this make. I got lots of compliments on it from my friends…and even from the restaurant manager of our dinner location! There are so many great memories locked into this garment that I KNOW I’ll be wearing it all summer-long. Are you into rompers too?
Happy Sewing,
Cristy
Fabric was courtesy of Stylemaker Fabrics for their spring/summer 2022 campaign. There was no obligation to write a blog post, but you know I gotta share my pattern mods with you!
Like so many of you, I’ve received my Covid vaccinations and am sitting on cards for me and my family. Knowing myself, I will NEVER remember where I last placed a card….unless I have a proper holder for everything. That was the lightbulb moment I had when I knew I needed to draft some kind of vaxx card holder. Here in the states, we are asked for vaccination cards to attend events, but are able to do so electronically with just pictures, which we carry in our phones. But I know when traveling abroad, other places may ask for the physical card. So, I combined a basic card holder along with some extra pockets for an American sized passport and credit cards. You can then keep all of your important documentation together in the Navigator Wallet!
*This post is not a debate of the efficacy of the Covid vaccine. All are entitled to their own views and this pattern was drafted for those who have a vaccination card. Please respect my choice and those of others, as I respect your choices. All comments will be monitored.
For Lunar New Year, I wanted to do something special for all of my readers and social media followers. The wish of good health is always part of the new year blessings and it only makes sense to offer the Navigator Wallet as a FREE pattern to all of you! Our health has been the focal point of the past few years and I’m very hopeful that the year of the Tiger can get us past the pandemic and traveling much more.
Features
This is a simple wallet with features that are similar to others already out in the market, but the big difference is the enlarged window opening which is sufficient enough for your vaccination card. Between all the members of the family, we have two different sized cards, but the printing is pretty consistent. So whichever size you may have, this clear vinyl window should be able to accommodate your card. This window can also be used for saving parking slips, tickets to events, and maybe even work IDs that need to be scanned.
Other features include:
Bi-fold design
(2) Credit/Business card slots
(2) Slip Pockets for cash and/or Passport
Tab Closure with snap for security
Construction
On top of making something so functional like this wallet, I love using up scraps of my bag making materials. This is a great pattern that does just that! The main body of the wallet can be cut from just a leftover strip of fabric while the slip pockets can be made from even smaller scraps. The closure tab is made from the window cut-out, allowing it to create very little waste as well. This is both scrap busting and scrap minimizing!
To make the wallet, you will need a non-fraying substrate like cork, leather, vinyl, or a stiff suede. Anything thinner with a drape, like a lambskin or garment-grade material could be shifty and stretch with sewing, like this cobalt sample I made. I purchased it second-hand from a person who made kid moccasins and once I cut out the window, the frame didn’t hold its shape. I eventually worked on squaring it out, but I think that step took longer than making the entire wallet!
Download the PDF template below. Tape 1a and 1b together aligning sides and the gray circle to make the full wallet body. Cut out all pieces on the solid black lines.
For full video instructions, click into the window below:
Optional Personalization
As I was working on samples of the Navigator Wallet, I pulled this gorgeous red cork from my stash and was inspired by the lucky red envelopes given out for Lunar New Year. These envelopes are stuffed with money from family to give you a good year and they are traditionally adorned with gold images and calligraphy. I used my Silhouette Cameo and some SVG files I purchased on Etsy to cut out gold heat transfer vinyl for my wallet. The images I bought are traditional motifs based on the ancient art of paper cutting and I found it a bit amusing that I could use my electronic cutting machine to replicate the look.
I’ve used heat transfer on other cork projects (think Monograms!) and I would recommend the following:
Cutting the protective plastic down around the image as much as possible – This keeps odd shapes from being pressed into your substrate. (I know because I’ve done it with faux leather before!)
Use the smallest iron you have. I have a travel iron and just try to use the tip on the vinyl
Use a pressing cloth so the iron doesn’t burn/melt the substrate
Lay project on a sleeve board or tailor’s clapper to push up the area you want to heat, but keep the rest of the project low and away from your iron
If you have a cutting machine, test out this new use for your heat transfer vinyl. It really allows you endless ways to make any project your own! I can’t believe how much my wallet looks like a Lunar New Year envelope!
I hope you enjoy this FREE gift to celebrate the year of the Tiger. Please feel free to share this on your social accounts and blogs as well. All I ask is for proper credit and to take a few minutes to learn about this deeply special holiday with a quick internet search. It is absolutely fascinating!
Happy New Year!
Cristy
This post may contain affiliate links. You can read about my full disclosures here.
I’ve been wanting to make a bias skirt for awhile now. The simple slip dress has made a comeback from the 90s and is not just a piece of lingerie any longer. The look is more modern layered with big oversized blazers and sweaters. Instead of heels, they are being paired with boots and sneakers for easy streetwear…I’m here for all of it! The bias cut of these dresses are great on any body and provide more fluidity and stretch in woven fabrics. I don’t think I would wear a slinky slip dress as much as a skirt and found the Sati Skirt.
Pattern
This is my very first time sewing a pattern from Russian based designer, Viki Sews. Since I bought the pattern based off a simple Google search (very late at night,) I didn’t realize that she sells her patterns by a SINGLE size and doesn’t include a range! I didn’t even realize it until I was ready to make the skirt and saw there was only one pattern drawing in the file. Of course, it was the wrong size, since I clicked directly through a Google ad….and had to contact the company through Etsy. It took a few days, but customer service was VERY kind and resent me the correct size even though it was completely my own fault for not reading through all of the details. (As an Etsy seller, I’m mad at myself for doing what so many customers do to me! #lessonlearned)
With bottoms, I span about 2 (sometimes 3) different sizes and like to see the drafting lines in order to make the appropriate adjustments for my body. So, I almost always stay away from companies that sell their patterns by a single size (Style Arc is another brand that does this.) Of course, these companies have fantastic patterns I would LOVE to make, but I’m not a formally trained pattern maker and don’t want to make my life harder than I have to! So, it wasn’t surprising to me that I fall into 2 sizes in Viki’s range. Since I already purchased the pattern, I asked for euro size 44 (even though I fell between 42-44.) It’s easier to take in fabric than to add fabric later 😉
The construction of the skirt was pretty simple. I basted the back darts and side seams for fit and did adjust the waist by pulling it in 3/8″ on each side seam (1.5″ total.) Many times, I have to readjust darts, but I think the bias cut helped to settle them smoothly on my back-side. The most difficult part was all in the cutting of the pattern. Although I have a pretty big cutting table, I made sure to cut on the floor to keep the fabric as flat and properly squared off as possible. This helped to keep the fabric design aligned and get a true 45* bias cut.
For the length, I do like how each size comes with 4 different options. Since I’m 5’3″, I chose the shortest version which brought me to a pretty good midi length. I’m sure all of you taller sewists can appreciate accommodations for being up to 6′ tall.
The only real change I made to the pattern was omitting 1 out of the 2 elastics for the waistband. Honestly, I don’t know why the instructions have you sew two together…maybe for more strength? But if you have a good quality waistband knit (that is soft against the skin,) you only need one.
As seen in the pictures, the band is sewn to the right side of the skirt and then folded to the inside where it’s hidden. I used my coverstitch machine, but this could easily be done with just a zig-zag stitch. I adjusted the length on the waistband and also sewed the short ends together on an angle to follow my waistline that goes out rather than just straight.
FABRIC
Speaking of firsts, this is also my first time using rayon from Mimi G for Riley Blake Fabrics. I know RB from quilting and know their woven cotton and jersey knits well. It’s nice that they have expanded out to fashion substrates. With a bias skirt, you want a nice opaque fabric since lining it would defeat a bias skirt’s flowy and body gliding nature. This rayon has a white base cloth with printing on top which definitely works! I purchased this from Melanated Fabrics, but you can always check out Etsy or Amazon for more.
You can check out the skirt’s movement below or on my Instagram here.
As you can see, despite the beginning hurdles, I LOVE my skirt now. The waist adjustments were simple enough that I would recommend this pattern, but I’m hesitant to try out any others from this company which would require more adjustments. The fabric is fantastic and I just love the feel and movement. I just need the weather to warm up a little bit so I can wear it out!
Happy Sewing,
Cristy
I personally bought all of the fabric and patterns for this project. This post may contain affiliate links. You can read about my Disclosures, here.
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